Push Rod Tubes and seals

[Marcdeb]

This engine is an all original 68 1500 with only 23,000 miles. This is likely the first time it's been out of the car. It runs great and the plan is to just clean it up and fix some leaks. I want to avoid doing anything that isn't necessary and leave everything original. the car will only be driven between 500 to 1000 miles per year.

My question: From what is seen in these pictures, should I replace the push rod tube seals? Or the tubes as well?

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Marc
68 Karmann Ghia Cabrio Autostick
71 Karmann Ghia Cabrio

Previously Owned:
2011 VW EOS Hard Top Conv
2008 Saab 9-3 2.0T Conv
2003 Saab 9-3 SE Conv
2001 Saab 9-3 Conv
1998 BMW 3 Series Conv
1997 Saab 900 Conv
1997 Mazda Miata

68 Ghia Vert Survivor with 22,350 miles: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=768107&highlight=
71 Ghia Vert Restoration: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=726710&postorder=asc

[PatJr]

imho
if they arnt rusted through, treat with some rust stop/prevention, paint and use again
I think most on TheSamba are going to say yes, replace with stainless, that's what I would do. And while it's apart, split the cases and measure everything, install that 78mm crank with chevy journals, Engle 100 ... oh, wait, that's not my bus

my 2 cents
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1970 Transporter a orange one
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[jimmyhoffa]

If I were you and I had the heads off anyway, I would be highly inclined to put stainless pushrod tubes in it, and use whatever white pushrod tube seals that CB Performance also sells and never worry about that again!
https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/1559.htm
https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/1945.htm

That said, that's not the MOST amount of oil I've seen a VW engine leak and not explode so you could just... ignore it.

Edit: Naw, I wouldn't take it any more apart than that! Just the old "while you're in there"
_________________
1974 Chenowth 2RL #1244 Street Legal
My other car isn't ridiculous.

[Marcdeb]

I actually have a full set of NOS VW Push Rod & Tubes that I found at an estate sale along with a bunch of other VW parts several years ago. I had forgotten all about them. I just dug them out of a box and they have "VW 311109335" stamped on the tubes. No numbers on the Rods. They're not stainless but the original set lasted 55 years.

If I was to replace all the tubes and seals, what am I getting into? Is it as simple as:
Remove the Rocker Assemblies.
Remove Rods keeping them in correct order.
Loosen the heads and slide them back.
Install new tubes and seals.
Push heads back on and torque.
Reinstall rods and rockers.
_________________
Marc
68 Karmann Ghia Cabrio Autostick
71 Karmann Ghia Cabrio

Previously Owned:
2011 VW EOS Hard Top Conv
2008 Saab 9-3 2.0T Conv
2003 Saab 9-3 SE Conv
2001 Saab 9-3 Conv
1998 BMW 3 Series Conv
1997 Saab 900 Conv
1997 Mazda Miata

68 Ghia Vert Survivor with 22,350 miles: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=768107&highlight=
71 Ghia Vert Restoration: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=726710&postorder=asc

[bsairhead]

Yes. Push rods don't care. The cylinders will likely want to stay on the head and pull away from the case. If you can get the heads loose without disturbing the case to cylinder seal your method is fine. I would pull the P&C's check them and clean and reseal them to the case.

[b-man]

I’d leave well enough alone. That’s a really tidy engine, I’d simply degrease it at the most and drive on.

That’s really minor leakage and nothing worth worrying about.

You’re opening up a can of worms here and probably getting into more work than you’re planning to fix what’s essentially a non-issue. After all that work it’s likely to start seeping again so what then ?
_________________
1956 Dove Blue Panel
1966 Velvet Green Single Cab
1957 L41 Black Oval Window Beetle

[jpaull]

The pushrod tube closest to your road draft tube has deep rust that is enough to warrant replacement before it busts a hole and leaks all over. Hopefully the rust isnt getting into the oil stream.

you can 100% just slide the heads back and replace the tubes and seals and not do anything else safely.

Your NOS tubes, i would clean the surface rust off, clean with Paint prep and paint with VHT Clear coat flame proof that autozone has. The clear is better as its more flexible and wont flake off like the color paint does. The pushrod tubes flex some as the engine heats and cools.

https://www.autozone.com/paint-and-body/high-heat-...lsrc=aw.ds

With the engine out, its really just a few hours of time. Just dont disturb the cylinders. You will have piece of mind and you dont have any project creep.
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[email protected] MPH 1/4 Mile & 8.1 @ 83.7MPH in 1/8 Mile with Mild Type 1 VW Mag Case 2234cc commuter engine in stock weight bug w/only .491 total lift(CB2292 Cam), 42x37 heads, 48idf's, Street tires, Belt on, Mufflers, Pump gas, video of the run here: https://youtu.be/M3SPqMOKAOg

Transmission by MCMScott:
Rhino case, Klinkenberg 4.12, Superdiff, 002 mainshaft with 091 first idler. Weddle 1.48 Third & 1.14 Fourth.

[toxicavenger70]

If it was me I would degrease it really well, retorque the heads, put the rubber tip on the draft tube and run it the way it is. I bet looking at your pic of the left side your oil cooler might need some new gaskets.

[Marcdeb]

Thank you for all the helpful replies. Yes, there is definitely some leakage at the oil cooler. It will get well cleaned and new seals along with a new rear main seal and a new torque converter seal (AutoStick transmission).
_________________
Marc
68 Karmann Ghia Cabrio Autostick
71 Karmann Ghia Cabrio

Previously Owned:
2011 VW EOS Hard Top Conv
2008 Saab 9-3 2.0T Conv
2003 Saab 9-3 SE Conv
2001 Saab 9-3 Conv
1998 BMW 3 Series Conv
1997 Saab 900 Conv
1997 Mazda Miata

68 Ghia Vert Survivor with 22,350 miles: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=768107&highlight=
71 Ghia Vert Restoration: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=726710&postorder=asc

[bsairhead]

Do me a favor. Let me know if you are able to separate the heads from the cylinders with out disturbing the case to cylinder seal. jpaull said you can 100% do it. On a 52-53 year old engine that has never been apart I think that's wishfully thinking. I would pull the top end off inspect, clean, and assess everything. You have most of the work done.

[wheel607]

What jpaul said...............use all new tubes that you have (from VW). Steelwool all of them, clearcoat. Let dry really well. AND this is important, place the seam running the length of the tube UP. Will last more than the time you have left. Painting the old tubes, and hoping they work is POUND FOOLISH.

[Dusty1]

[Marcdeb]

[Marcdeb]

[txoval]

If there’s no other reason to pull the head, I would not hesitate to install Jaycee pushrod tubes. Being that the car is so original, I understand wanting to keep the original look though.

However, if I’m pulling the heads I would tear it down to a short block while doing so. Go ahead and rebuild the heads, re-hone cylinders, new rings, etc

Just my opinion

[Frank Bassman]

Honestly if it is so original just get a QUALITY set of springloadeds and call it a day. It is almost a crime to pull all that apart if it is truly 23k miles . Unpopular opinion maybe, but most on this forum will tell you to get barenaked just to blow your nose.

Good luck, and nice car!

-Frank

[Dusty1]

[bsairhead]

Yes on PB blaster or make your own 50/50 ATF - Acetone. Wood shims Dead blow hammer.

[bsairhead]

You know for about $150 you can make it a 1600

[stevemariott]