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Steal Vs. Splurge Seiko’s New GMT Takes On A Travel-Ready Chronometer From Tag Heuer

Similar specs, colors, and GMT ability – which hits the spot for your time zone needs?

Whether travel has returned to your schedule or you frequently have to interface with team members in different time zones, a GMT-ready watch can simplify worldwide time down to a couple of easy hands on the dial. For this installment of Steal vs. Splurge, we're taking a comparative look at two GMT watches that share several elements in common but are separated by a massive stack of cash. With similar colors, feature sets, and specifications, which of these GMTs will have you tracking a second timezone in a style most sporty? 


Steal

The Watch: Seiko 5  Sports GMT SSK003

Why It's Cool: It's a Seiko GMT based in the general format of the venerable SKX007. If like me, you've been wishing for the better part of the last decade that Seiko would make an SKX GMT, this is a deeply cool watch that manages to come in at a very attractive price point.

seiko ssk003 gmt

Measuring 42.5mm across, 13.6mm thick, and 46mm lug to lug, where the SKX007 was an ISO-compliant dive watch, the new SSK Seiko 5s (which were launched in a trio of colorways) are 100-meter water-resistant travel-focused watches with a tension-fit 24-hour bezel, a passive crown, and a Hardlex crystal with a cyclops over the date.

While I'd advocate for the blue/red/black color scheme of the SSK003, all three iterations come on a "jubilee-style" steel bracelet with solid end links and a fold-over clasp with four micro-adjust points. For those used to the SKX's "cheap and rattly" bracelet, it's a clear step up and the new SSK goes a step further by adding drilled lugs. Time to dig out all your 22mm straps. 

Seiko SSK001 GMT

Visible through the Seiko 5-usual display caseback, the new Seiko 4R34 offers a caller-style GMT function linked to a large red 24-hour hand that is controlled via the first position on the crown (one way is the date, the other is GMT). Ticking at 21,700 vph, this 24 jewel movement has ~40 hours of power reserve and stems from Seiko's long-standing 4R movement series, which is known to be robust, but not exceptional in terms of accuracy, with Seiko listing the 4R34 at -35/+45 seconds per day.

Why It's Affordable: Carrying a list price of $475, even with the less-than-stellar timekeeping, the SSK Seiko 5 Sports GMT hits home for a wide range of enthusiasts by incorporating Seiko's iconic dive watch styling with a useful and stylish feature set that many Seiko nerds have been clamoring for.

Also, despite being a premium model within the Seiko 5 range, the SSK GMTs are still part of the brand's entry-level offering and that means a price point below that of the higher-spec Prospex series. 

Unless you absolutely must have a flyer-style GMT, if you like travel watches, the SSK feels like a no-brainer. 


Splurge

The Watch: Tag Heuer Autavia COSC GMT

Why It's Cool: Honestly, for any caller-style GMT (that is, one with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand), the Seiko has the deck stacked in its favor. That said, I do think the svelte Tag Heuer Autavia COSC GMT offers a lot for the type of buyer who might not have any interest in the darling Seiko.

the tag heuer autavia cosc GMT

This watch is cool because it's a great-looking Tag Heuer sport watch with a clean and legible dial, a handsome colorway, a useful GMT functional, and it comes with both a chronometer spec movement and a matched steel bracelet.

To my eyes, the modern Autavia lineup houses some of Tag Heuer's best designs, and, for me, this GMT is among the brand's most compelling (especially for those who prefer contemporary design).

Why It's Expensive: The delineation between these two, especially in terms of the price point, is that of luxury. Seiko and Tag Heuer are two brands that don't specifically overlap in terms of market position. Outside of the playground of Steal vs. Splurge, the Tag Heuer would do direct competition with something like a Grand Seiko, not a Seiko 5. So, where one might buy the Seiko more for its functionality and price point, the Tag Heuer's appeal is more directly connected to the strength of the Tag Heuer name. 

the tag heuer autavia GMT dial

While I can imagine folks may take some umbrage with the previous statement, I think the same can be applied to the Seiko, albeit with fewer zeros in play. After all, a $25 Casio can walk circles around both of these watches in terms of time zone functionality. While I'm a Seiko man at heart, I can't deny reality and brand plays a role here. 

Back to the comparison at hand, let's start with how these two watches are similar. The Autiavia COSC GMT is a 42mm wide steel sporty GMT with 100 meters of water resistance and a bi-directional 24-hour blue/black bezel. It comes on a bracelet, has a blue dial with date display, and features a caller-style GMT function based on the Tag Heuer Caliber 7 (based on the ETA 2892-A2).

From a wide perspective, that's a pretty similar package to that of the SSK and, like the Seiko, the Tag Heuer is a little over 13.5mm thick, and lug to lug is a reported 50.4mm (via thewatchbox.com).

Now, let's consider where the Autavia sets itself apart (aside from the $4,200 price tag). First, there are some simple things, like the ceramic bezel insert, the finer case finishing, the quick-release bracelet, and the white-on-black date wheel that more closely aligns with the dial color.

the caseback of the autavia gmt

Then, there is the movement, which is absolutely a step up. The 2892-A2 is an excellent 4Hz automatic movement from ETA and in this scenario, it's also COSC certified, so those who prefer a bit less wabi-sabi in their timekeeping will be able to enjoy chronometer-spec performance.

At $4,200, the brand into which you're buying is absolutely a piece of the equation and Tag Heuer manages to resonate both in the realm of the general and in that of the enthusiast. They have a worldwide position as a prestigious but somewhat accessible entry-point into the idea of a luxury watch and, while Seiko has a very strong and special appeal, it cannot match that of Tag Heuer for many buyers.


How To Decide

Speaking from my own perspective, get the SSK003. I bought one as soon as I could and it's a very solid watch for the money (stay tuned for a full review). But, biases and considerations have to be included in the math. I love Seiko and have wanted this sort of watch for as long as I've owned my SKX (which I even modded for travel with a 12-hour bezel). Furthermore, I have something of a proclivity for travel watches, so I'm spoiled for choice when it comes to a watch that can track two or more timezones.

More broadly, while I think either could make great daily watches, you get more performance and, if it matters for you, more prestige from the Tag Heuer. If you're looking for one nicely made, rather handsome, well-spec'd travel watch that won't set you back like a Rolex, the Tag fits the bill if a caller GMT works for your uses. Finally, and I know this is a take coming from me, but if the longer lug to lug of the Tag Heuer works on your wrist, I think it's a better-looking blue/black GMT than the Seiko. I love the look of the Seiko, but it's more toolish than it is pretty.

the orange dialed Seiko 5 SSK GMT

Alternatively, if you have $500 and want something that does most of the same thing while offering excellent value, go with the Seiko. You'll get a smile and a nod from me in the security line when I see the SSK on your wrist – because there is a good chance I'll be wearing mine, too (and I'll see you in economy class). 

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The HODINKEE Shop is an Authorized Retailer of both Tag Heuer and Seiko watches.