Fine Home building by The Mechanic

16 WAYS TO IMPROVE THE AIR QUALITY IN YOUR HOME

A remoCieler's ( guide

tile Custom finishes for affordable doors Energy-saving light fixtures Window casings in less time CABINET UPGRADE

Retrofit a trash drawer SEPTEMBER 2009 NO. 205 www.finehomebuildir'l9路com

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FEATURES COVER STORY

Buying or Renting Tile Saws How to choose the best one for the job SY TOM M EE HAN

CUTTING DRYWALL STRIPS

The Only Way 10 Trim Exterior Windows The key t o durable trim and minimal trips up the ladder is to assemble it first and install illater BY M KE VA Ct RC A

UP FRONT 6

On th e Web

Co ntributors

A Custom Finish for Affordable Doors Layer.; of dye and glaze add instant character to an inexpensille interior door BY PETER GED RY S

10 16

Letters How It Work s

BY SE AN G RO OM

Hea t -reCOlle ry lIentilators

Tips & Techniques

Tool s & Materia ls

PREASSEMBLE YOUR WINDOW CASINGS

BY REX A LEX AN D ER

Two b its from Bosch, Strong bandages, Fiber-cement saw

Upgrade to a Trash Drawer Installed in an existing cab inet, it's simple and sturdy, and it hides disposables only a slide away

Efficient door painting, Fitting coped crown molding, Beveled cau lk tip

The Bright Future of Lightin g W ith stricter energy requirements and improlled light technology, we all mOly be switching to CFLs and LEOs

A Striking Hillside Home In New York state, a new house combines compound curves and energy-saving details BY KURT O fER

Ven ti ng a Tricky Old Roo" Retrofitting undershingle intake and ridge lIents helped to cool and dry this 120--year--old attic BY M IKE GUERTIN

16 Ways to Improve the Air You Breathe DiSCOllering the causes of poor indoor-air quality is the first step in creating a healthful home BY JAMIE LYONS

Rem oving Interior Walls A step-by-step guide for taking down walls without wrecking

the hou se BY CHRIS ER M !DES

www.finehomebuilding.com

IN THE BACK 72

Project Gallery Questions & Answers Patching holes In siding, New code reqUirement for decks

What's the Difference? Hammer$, Glue

Building Skills Soldering copper cap flashing

Drawing Board Garden sheds with style

Master Carpenter Timber-framing joinery: Cutting a

double-bladed scarf

Great Moments This Is On1v a Test

EN ERGY-SAVING LIGH TIN G

ontheweb WWW.FINEHOMEBUILDING.COM

b[eaktime~

Look for these .md other free magazirw extras on

the FineHome bvild ing.co m home page.

Advice from our online forum

Sizing up tile saws

~8'eaktime,"

Tile saws aren't cheap. If you're in the mar.:et for one,

If you haven't visited

~tart

sian g roup, then you're missing out on a fascinating exchange of ideas, advice, and commentary. You' ll find· Breaktime" on our Web site. listed below are some recent highlights.

your research wrtll Tom Meehan's "'r1ide on p. 32 To learn more about a new model, (eild the "Tool Hound" blog post "Sizing up Ridgid's f1ew tile saw."

8UILDING SKILLS

There's a better way to paint doors

How to solder copper cap flashing

If the idea of painting a houseful of doors has you spin-

our online discus·

ning. check out Chuck Miller's "There's a Better Way"

C.'Ip flashing is a critical line

Base or screening for a paver patio?

video blog. Watch Chuck demonstrate a door.spinner

of defense against wa ter infiltration. In this video,

CREATED BY BENNYT: My contractor is

device (p. 20) that makes quid work of painting dools.

Play "The Inspector" For your education and entertainment, we' .. e altered

a job.site photo to include code and safety \liolatlons,

missing elements, and other oddities. Spot them all to earn points. and post yOllr score.

third-generat ion slate roofer John Mahan demonstrates how to bend and solder this detai l in copper.

The latest from our editors Check out the newest blogs nn our home page. To get Justin Fink's uncensored perspective 011 all things tools, visit "Tool Hound." And watch Chuck Mil ler put his favorites from the "Tips & Techniques" department to the test while our Cilmeras roll iit "There's a Better Way."

VideoWorkshop

installing a paver patio in our yard. He !Jays that a crushed-gravel base is not required if you use screening (a fine rock material) because it blocks water penetration. Is he right, or should I be worried about not having the base? Posted by florida: In South Florida, where I work, screenings are all that are ever used. I've never seen or heard of gravel or sand being used in a professional installation. Posted by Sphere: I think that approach is fine . As long as it drains (which screening does better than sand), you should be good. Posted by Mike_Maines: You might want to block water penetration at the surface, but you certainly don't want to block water once it has started to penetra te. There's actually a good argument for making patios as porous as possib le: to minimize water-runoff issues. What's under the pavers isn't as important, actually, as what is under that. It's all about good foundations.

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• Green building, news, and editors' blogs • Tool reviews . Q&As • Tips & Techniques . Videos . Slide shows . Free eLetter sign-up · 14-DAY FREE MEMBERSHIP TRIAL, which indudes access to more than 1450 Fine Homebuilding articles to print and download . And more ...

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Cordless drills sans batteries CREATED BY BOBL: What do you all do with

your cordless drills when the batteries go kaput? Used to be that it was cheaper to replace the tool than the batteries. Posted by BilljustBill: When my Craftsman's batteries started failing, I found a newer one at a garage sale with a good battery and charger for S15. I saved the old one for stirring paint and other messy jobs. Posted by Doodabug: Batteries Plus rebu ilt myoid battery for $43.95. Posted by jet: Check out this place, too: www.batterybuyer.com. I got my batteries from them. Fit fine in my Black & Decker drill. Posted by JoeH: There are lots of ceUs for sale on eBay for $ 1+ each .

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contributors THE VO ICES OF EXPERIENCE

Fine lIomebuilding Ed itor

Early in his career as

furniture restorer, PETER GEDRV5 realized the key to fine finishes (pp. 42-46) lay in successful color-matching_ This skill became the foundation for his business, Architectural Finishes (WNW _petergedrys.c;om). Peter also lectures about color and finishes at woodworking shows. In his spare time, Peter enjoys working with color in one of his many gan::lans and in winter is

E~ecut i~e

Art Di rector

Specia l. lSS<J e s Editor Sen ior Editors

A~lod~te

goaltender in senior hockey.

Ed itors

Seniot Copyl Production Editor.

Going from moldy crawlspace!> to ultra-efficient homes, JAMIE LYONS ("16 Ways to Improve the Air You

Deputy Art Di re ctors

Breathe. pp. 62-65) has spent H

his career $tudying houses and

Adm inisl<ative AssiSlan!

learning about the importance of indoor-air quality and venti-

Web Produce",

lation. Jamie holds degrees in

Edito, at L""g e

mechanical and environmental engineering, and enjoys the opportunity to understand how buildings work from both engineering and real-world perspectives. When he's not working with buildings (including his own home), Jamie spends time outdoors and hiking with his family. After several years of enjoying New York City's urban groove, KURT OFER and his architect wife, Teresa Drerup, moved to the Coopel'Stown, N.Y., area, where the rural vibe continues to rosonate for them and their three children. Kurt has practiced and taught architecture in upstate New York for the past 17 years. He and Teresa believe that green design is, first and foremost, good design. One of Kurt's latest designs is featured on pp.54-58. REX ALEXANDER has been a contributor to both

• write an article Fine Homebuilding

wekomes articles from our reade~. We'll acknowledge all proposals and retum any we can't use. a nd we'll p<ly fot <lny <lrticles we pub lish. For det<lils, check our Web site <lt WNW .f1nehomebuilding.com.

•

F INE HOMERUILDING

FHB and Fine Woodworking since 1991. Rex lives in

central Michigan, where he designs and builds furniture, custom kitchens, and built-ins, such as the trash drawer on pp. 52-53. This summer, he is touring folk and bluegrass festivals as guitarist with the Cajunl zydeco band K. Jones and the Benzie Playboys. Inspired by his grandfather, a stucco and plaster (:ontractor, MIKE VACIRCA ("The Only Way to Trim Exterior Windows," pp. 38-41) pursued work as a craftsman, earning his first paycheck in the trades restoring tall ships. After spending II few years a s a remodeling carpenter, Mike started his business, LastingNest Builders Inc., which he co-owns with Jonathan Stenzler. P~ot "".

from top:

C(J<J rte,~

Edito'i~1

Brian Pontol;lo Robert Gooclfe llow Cha,les Mill e r Cha rles Bickford De bra 5ilb. r Chris Ermid u J ustin Fin k Rob Y~gid

C hris Hoelck J ulie Ril ln it Dan Thomtoo Rodney Diaz Ma ur""n F' iedman John Ross Robyn Doyon-Ailkom Ke~i n I'''ton

Advis.,.-

Mike Gue rtin

Co nttlooting Edi tor.

Rkk Arnold Se an G room

Contributing Writ""

S~Ol1 Gib .on MJtthew Te '"9""

Senior Editot. Boob

Pet er C Mpm,,,,

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AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2009

letters Fine Homebuilding

READER FEEDBACK

Mv.,rli,ing

$"I ~,

Direct'"

P"'(>r B."'<MU 203·304·3572 pb"d"a"Otnll<1ton .com

~"ior N~tion~ 1

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You oversimplified the discussion: How much insulation is "enough"?

Accoont

Nation~1

M~~ ~ger.

East

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Your IWeent article "Spray Foam:

We.t

What Do You Really Know" (FHB Midwest

c .... ot P"ring...203·304·3889 cpe-ringerOtaooton.com

K."'" Dru

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*204 and online at FineHome

building.com) touched on an

kdr .zOtau nlon.coon

important topic that seems to be

No~l .. McCullo<h 203·304·3465

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708-386-1450

"mCOJllochOt~""ton.com

rarely covered: the diminishing Ea;! a nd South

return that comes from increasing

cdunl1,,",~unt"".com

the thickness of spray-foam insu-

Adverti~ng S.~I

lation. What could have been a

As";SliI M

great opportunity to discuss how ~enough'"

Heau-....-Sim .

D irector of

Adverti' ing Ma ri<e!ing

to rationally decide how much insulation is

C~ri, Dun~.""

203-304-3579

$oo i", Marketing MaMge.Adverti. ir>g

was pre-

K.r." Lutje "

M"",ber ALodit B ~'e ... of Ci'Cl.JI~ti""

sented simpli5ti<:ally, as a matter

eo....

of two people's opinions.

"""ior umer M"",cting Director

We are told that Chris Porter, the building-science and code manager for

Beth R"Y""ld •.

P",Ci,~

Se nior Con.umer

BioBased Insulation, says that 6 in. of open- or dosed-cell foam "is perfectly ade-

Ma rketing MaMger

quate" in most parts of the country. Builder Michael Chandler, on the other hand,

Senior M" no ger Web M~rJ,;eting

says that he's OK with "S3000 for the additional 2% in performance. ~ Both of

tlusines; MaMge.-s

Meli,,,,, Robin.on Robert H..-1ow Da.id Po"". M.9~n S~" g.ter

these statements are overly simplistic. Porter appears to be unconcerned with an almost 2-to-1 difference of insulating value between the two types of foam, and Chandler is ignoring what that extra $3000 might buy elsewhere in the house.

The 'launton Press

The rational approach is to do a costlbenefit analysis. Calculating heat loss is

In'pi,..,,,,,, 1<"

pretty straightforward, and themore, we don't have to rely on blanket statll-

P, .. irleo' EVP&CFO SVP

Ch"fC""toot OffiCOf S~C'~"~

SliP S. 0-.;.; M.onu.ti.-.g

Is R-40 not twice as effective as R-20?

r was confused by some of the information presented in Rob Yagid's article on spray-foam msulation. A caption for the graph that compares efficiency to thickness states, "As the thickness of insulation increases the insulating value ... diminishes drastically." Now that can't possibly be true! If R-40 is not twice as effective as R-20, 10

FINE HOMEBUILDING

then how much more effective is it? The caption would haw~ us belIeve that R-40 is less effective than R-20.

Oflic~f

SlIP. A.d.ertioing Sll~

s..~,

& P...t:O ishe'. Book G!OUP

-STEVE HOULIHAN

Santa CI'\JZ, Calif.

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VP, Single Copy

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A.mxiau ditor N.oh Yagui replleJ: You' re right; the caption was misleading. However, the chart was accurate. When it comes to insulating a home, more is almost always hctur,

li.-i"t'

Fouoo.". .. r.ul " J an Rom.on

ments like these to makll sound decisions. -DAVID STRIP, l./I Jarll,N,M

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AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2009

letters

CONTINUED

and I had no intention of suggesting otherwise. But the fact remains that insulation reaches a point of diminishing returns, where the cost of the material exceeds the cost of the potential energy 5aYlngs. When assessing the tr ue JX:rformance of a wall or roof as~embly, the labeled R-values aren't always rdiablc, and th e return on

mv e_~tm e nt

ofthe insulation is important when you're building an energy-<fficient hOlll" on a real-

worlJ budget. We need numbers to determine greenness With regard to the hous<:: on p. 58 of your Houses issue CRural Landscape, Modern Sensibility," FHB #203 and

, , If green building is going to be an editorial priority of yours, you should make an effort to give us some real numbers. " online at FineHomebuild ing.com), I would have loved to have seen a compmison between the total household energy usage with the original propane furnace and the total energy household usage since converting to the geothermal heating system- not just dullar comparisons, which arc subjcct to regional variations, utility subsidies (as in the case of the featured housc), and commodity price fluctuntions. Like wise, it would have been interesting to find out what the carbon footprint of eleclricity is in that part of Michigan su that I could better gauge whether switching from a 9'i%-efficient propane furnace to electrically powered geothermal heat was as "grt"en" as it was made out to he in the article. 12

FIN E HOMEBUI L DING

This may come across as nerdy quibbling, but it ~ms to me that if green building is going to he an editorial priority of yours, you should make an effort to give us some real numbers. _PAUL ELDRENKAMP

via ema il

Organic can be toxic On p.34 of your annual Howe:> issue (FHB #203 and online at FineHomebuilding.com), Jefferson Kolle describes a deanlllg product, as " ... organIC, so it is nontoxic, noncaustic, noncorrosivc, and nonacidic." I wotlld like to introouce Mr. Kolle to methyl vinyl ketone to sec ifhc still believes that all organic compound~ are harmless, as he impiie,. Methyl vinyl ketone is an organic compound used in the manufacture of plastic polymers. It is highly flammable, is ve ry toxic if inhaled or swallowed, and causes burns. So suffice it lO say that using the label of "organic" is not the same as using the label of "nontoxic, noncaustic, noncorrosive, and nonaeidic." - CHARLES GRAHAM

via email

Excavate basements carefully In his ~Drawi ng Board" piece aboul fimshed basements (FHB #2U2 and online at f'ineHome building.com), Kurt Lavenson suggests a bunch of good ideas, including excavating the foundation to make room for windows and doors to gain natural light. Readers ill clirnatts cooler than California should heware, however. Local frost depth and existing footings should be explored thoroughly before any adjustment of grade outside the house is considered. Removing

soil reduces frost protection and could easily cause cracked foundations or worsc. -RANDALL S. WALTER

Walpole, N.H.

Code clarification for

efficient lighting Lynn Underw()()([ did a good job uf pointing out some pertinent code changes in "Green Yesterday, Code Today"' (FHB #204 and online at Fine Homebuilding.com), but made all error when it comes to the reqUIrements for more efficient lightillg. Lynn states, "The code al~ demands that all recessed light5 meet an ASTM manufacturing tightness standard and he sealed with a gasket or caulk ... " (code section N 1102.4.5). In facr, this change does not apply to all recessed lighting, hut only to n~cessed light, that penetrate the building's thermal envelope. With recessed fixtur~s in a drop ceiling, for ill5tancc, the requirement does not apply. _LEE HtTCHCOX

San Rafael, Calif.

How Tyvek works On p. 16 of the July 2009 Issue (FHB #204 and on li n~ at Fine Homebuilding.com), the "How It Works" on vapor drive 5hows a cros~ ~ctioJl of a W<lll with Tyvck housewrap installed between the sheathing and the siding. I noticed that the wrap is installed with the printing facing inward, toward the sheathing. Is thi~ correct? Tam in N ew Jer~y and Just wrapped a portion of mr home with TytKk facing out. _KENNETH VER8EYST

via email

F.4itor Brian PontoLilo l~p&S: To my Ji,may, you caught something we should have. The only

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9am-Spm ET Sat To find out a bout Fine Homebuilding products: Visit www_~nehomebu;kji ng.mm/pmducts To get help with online member services: Visit www.f.nehomebuild ing .com/customerse.-vice To find answers to frequent ly askad questioos: Visit W'Io'ffl.finer.omoou ilding. com/FACis To contact Fine Homebuilding OJstomer service: Email us at.upportCC\JstomerseNi(:e_taunton .com To 1p<Iak directly to a OJ~tom",r 5')rvioo profession al: CaIISOO-477 -8727 9am路5pm ET Mon路F ri To sell Finll Homebuilding in your storll:

~rljsle ;w.de Plank FloorsFAMILY CRAFTED SINCE 1966

Call uS tol l-free a t 866-505-4674, or emai l usatmagazin<.lsa.es@uunton.com To advertiw in Fine Homebui'di"9:

Call8C()..309-8953 O r email us at lhads@taunton.com Mailing list: We ma ~e a portion 01 our ma iling list ava ilable to reputable firms. II you would preler that we no t include your name, please "isit: www.finehomebuilding_com/privaCj or ca lL 300-477-8727 9am.5pm ET Man_Fri FOf emp loyment information: Visit wv.'W.careers.taunton.com The Taunton guarantee: If at any t ime you're not completely ~ati slied with Fine Hnmf>b"ifdi"9, you C.3n cancel your subscription and lece i"e a fu ll and immediate refund of the ent ire subscr iption price No questions asked.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2009

letters

CONTINUED

work safely Home building is inherently

dangerous. From accidents with power tools to falls from ladders, scaffolds. and roofs, builders risk s<:niW$ injury and

even death. We try to promote

safe work habits through our artide~_

But what is safe for

rcason we show the printing on our illustration In the first piau is for th:u layer afthc building assemhly to he easily recognizable as houscwrap (1)'vek beiog the Kleeoex of housewrap). According to DuPont's Weh site, Tyvek housewrap can be installed in either d irection. However, it is important fa note that that may not: be true for different types of houscwrap.

reads, "1 watt equals 3,4 129 Htulhr or I wattlhr equals 3,4l2lJ Htu." It should have read "I watt-hour cquald,4129 Btu." Enngy is the pnxiuct of lXlwer multiplied by time. My l-x:t is that Mr. Cler had it fight (he did), but that the magazine copied it wrong (lVe did).

"The foam comprcs.>Cs filx:rglass bans ... ~ This is not true for Icyoene's lXlur-filJ product. lcynene's lXlur-fill formula should be used only in empty wall cavities. -TERESA CROSATO

marketing communications supervisor, !cynene

_N ILS OMHOLT

Countertop cost correction

Sterling Heights. Mich.

cirC\lm$tances may "ot be

Btu: You blew it again

1cynene's pour fill is for empty walls only

(FHB #198 and online at Fine

safe for you under different

!o your last issue (FHH # 2()4 and onlioe at FineHome building.com), Larry Cler wrote a letter to correct a miswkc in "Is Your Heatiog System an Energy Beast?" that you made labeling units of energy. His letter was explicit aod accurate, hut in the last ~nteocc, you blew it again. The sentence

Your spray-fO.1m imulation story (PHB #204 and ooline at FineHomebuilding.cum) is generally a wdl-rc~a rched and well-written piece. However, you got one item very wrong. The article states that lcynene has )xlIlr-fill prvducrs fur eXisting walls, which is correct. However, it goes on to say that

Homebuildmg.com), and most recently in FHB's Kitchen & Bath Plannmg Guide, the cost of Alkemi's reSin and aluminum countertops is listed incorrectly. The price printcd reflects the inswlled cost, not the cost of the material, as noted. Fahricators can purchase the countertop m aterial filr $39 to $60 per >y. fl.

one person under certain

circumstances_ So don't try

anything you learn about hete (or elsewhere) unless you're certain that it is safe for you_

Please be careful. -BRIAN PONTOLILO

editor

In "Amazing CQuntertops"

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tips&techniques ~===··~"=.:1" NARROW STRIPS OF DRYWALL

BEVELED CAULK-TIP TIP

EDITED AND ILLUSTRATED BY CHARLES MILLER

An efficient way to paint doors

V.·in.-dia. by 4-in, concrete screw

The setup shown in the drawing shows how we use a couple of sawhorses, some long screws, and a few pieces of plywood to make a spinner for sup-

Fender washer

porting a door while it is painted. Fj/'5t, we tie a couple of sawhorses together with a 2x6 strewed to their

crossbars. Then we screw a plywood upright to each crossbar. The uprights have notches in their top ends, as shown in the drawing. Concrete-screw a",les centered in the ends of the door ride in the notches, allowing the door to be

rotated for painting both sides in the same session. Make sure that the

uprights are tall enough to allow the rotating door to clear the 27;6 cross tie. To assemble the axles, we use '1.-ill.-dia. by 4-in.·long concrete screws and

Plywood i screwed to sawhorse

a short piece of 1ft-in. 1.0. tubing sandwiched between a fender washer on

crossbars

the outside and a smaller washer on the door side. The tubing acts as a bushing for the S{;rews as the door is rotated. We install another 4-in. concrete screw 3 in. to the side of each axle. These offset screws protrude about 2'12 in. As shown in the draWing, the offset screws enable the door to be locked easily in any position

B.ace

VIDEO

with a simple plywood brace and a clamp. When we have a lot of doors to paint, we set up a drying rack that consists of rows of uprights with 4-in.-deep notches. The doors hang vertically in the notches as they dry, making it easy to put a lot of doors in a relatively small

A 22"~6~tt;;'~':o;j\;;'0'""'_/ to 0

space. The screws act as handles for easy canying by two workers and ensure that the doors will hang vertically. -~ON

MATHIS

Macomb,lIl.

Kitchen base-cabinet floor fix • submit a tip Tips & Techniques is a forum fo. readers

to exchange informa· tion about methods. tools, and jigs they've devised. We'll pay lor anywe publish. Send details to Tips. Fme Homebuilding, P: O. Bo~ 5506, Newtown,

Subway tile _ , rejuvenate5 bare-cabinet bottoms.

"""''

CT 06470-5506, or

email them to us at

FH@Taunton.com.

I am working on a low-budget kitchen remood. The cabinet frames and doors are in good shape, but the carcases are made of flimsy particleboard. Thc bottoms of the baSt cabinets have ix'(:n damaged by dripping smk traps and containers of household cleaning prooucts. To fix this, I tiled the bottoms of the cahineg with inexpensive 3x6 subway wall tiles.l covered the m()st severely damaged cabinet bottoms with Yi-in.-thick tile backerboard. The others I simply roughed up with sandpaper before setting the tiles. No one will he walking on these tiles, so strenp;th really isn't an issue, Cleanup will now be a breeze, and the tile is really clean and eye-catching. It took me only about three hour5 and $5U in materials to do the entire job. -CHRIS DOWD

Clive, Iowa ~ otes com pa nion video at

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AUGUST/SEPTE~iBER

2009

tips&techniques CONTINUED

Fitting coped crown molding

Before I made this jig, I checked the fit of my coped crown molding the conventional way by climbing the ladder and holding the coped piece in place ")fJ.ill5t the installed $('ction. This m ethod told m e that it was either a good fit or that there was a gap, but it fai led to tell m e where to remove the material to eliminate a gap. All

VIDEO

Viewing w;odo. ,

Slide workpiece against sample crown. PI~ood

side (wa ll)

.<- - -----

Sample crown affixed to side

Coped end

-Guide strip High Plywood base

spot

(represents cailing)

View through

the window

I knew was that there was a high spot or spots somt> where on the hidden coped surface. I then had to locate the high spots and remove them by trial and error, while chanting those specIal words carefully selected by carpenters to reflect their degree of frustration. With the fixture shown in the drawing, I am able to check my coplng without climbing a ladder, and if it is not a good fit, I am able to ~ exactly where and how much material needs to be removed. I simply slide my coped section into the fixture until it engagt"S the sample piece of crown, as shown in the drawing. If a gap exists bctw!":!":n th!":ir front f;lces, I view the hidd!":n coped fact: through the viewing window. This enables me to identify where and how much morc fitting i~ r!":quired hy the amount and position of the light shining through the gap. (High spots allow no light to show through.) J usually get all the high spots on the first go. The fit is conti rmed by a quick recheck on the fixture, and it's up the ladder for installation. The lmtalled sample and the guide position can be changed to suit the particular crown molding being Installed. Although J use separate left and right jigs, they can be modified easily to check both left- and right-hand coping by duplicating the window component-re pn~senting a wall and made of plywood- and attaching it to the front edge of the base together with the installation of a sccond guide. - COLIN SIDDALL

G,p

St. Paul. Alta., Canada

Coped end

Splicing ridge boards As a fram ing carpenter, I frequently come across a ridge span longer than the overall length of the material I' m using for the ridge. To exte nd the ma terial to the correct length, I splice ridge boards with a V-shaped joint as shown in the drawing_

Rafter

My crew and I call this technique "penciling the ridges," after the big pencil-shaped piece

of wood that results when the cuts are made. To begin the cuts, overlap the ridge material with the crowns pointing in the same direction. The overlap should be at least equal to the rafter spacing (usually 16 in. around here). Now take

Equal

tape and mark the rafter layout lines

3t.

as shown in the drawing. Draw cutlines from the center of the top ridge board to its end, and make these cuts with the sawblade set 1;' in. deeper than the cut. This will put saw tracks in the bottom piece, showing you where to finish the cuts. Now you can put the pieces together with a couple of ad nails near the end of the spike. Depending on how long the piece s are, you either can assemble them on the ground and carry them to the ridge, or put the m together in place. I like this detail because it's clean Ind because it holds together better than a couple of toenailed, butt路joined boards. It's also simpler than scabbing on a plywood gusset or a 2)( splice. _RYAN HAWKS

Flagstaff, Ariz. 22

FI t\' F. H O MEIHI I L f)JN G

8d nails sElctJrEl .ls~embled

ddge boards.

FROM THE CREATORS OF ADVANTEC~FLOORING

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ENGINEERED

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READER S!I'!VIC!

" NO. 7

WOO"

tips&techniques CONTINUED

Culling narrow strips of drywall

Plastic: Speed Squa re

On a recent joh, we had limited space to work, so the drywall was ~ta("kt路d against a w;)l1 r;nhcr than lying flat on benches. We needed a bunch of long, narrow strips, but with the drywalllcaning against the wall, it was difficult to score narrow pieces properly, at least at first. Then we discovered that Wt could u~e an inexpensive \( ~ plastic Speed Square to help us qUickly and accurately . , ....., score the drywall. As shown in the drawmg (left), we placed the square's flange on the edge of the drywall, and then pre~:>ed the knife's blade against the edge of the square so that the knife tip just sliced through the drywall paper. Then we simply pulled the square and knife along the length of the shcl":t, resulting in perfectly Utrlity-knife b/;!de rides in straight cuts for those pesky shallow kerf. narrow piece~. I think the reason this process works so well is that the

READER SERVICE NO. 300

F IN E HOMEBUI LD I NG

knife blade can dig a little into the plastic square, creating a shallow kerf that k~ps the blade froOl wandering. A mctalsquare wouldn't work as wel l. _SARIQ TURNER

Newfoundland, Canada

Beveled caulk-tip tip Refore caulking in a corner, I cut the end of the nozzle at a 45 0 angle. then draw a solid line with a felt-tip pt:n on top of the 45"cut along the length of the nozzle. I also draw a dotted line on the bottom of the 45掳 cut. In this way, I always know where the 45" angle is even when the nozzle gums up. -ALEX OPPEDIJK

Forest Knolls. Calif.

Solid line marked on t ip cen ter/ine

45 0 tip for calliking

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AU(jUST/SEPTEMBER 2009

tools&materials NEW AND NOTEWORTHY PRODUCTS

ITS FROM BOSCH _ 877·267·2499; www.bQ$(:htool•. com DAREDEVIL B IT

MUI..TICON ST RU C T I ON BIT Ilik~ nothi ng more than tras hing tools tha t have unrealistic manufactu ren' claims, so when I heard that &sch was bragging about a bit that can be used to drill wood, pla~ti c, metal, concrete, and tile, I g:cart:d up for a lorture tcst. I , Lartt:<! by chucking one ofthe bits-which look li ke sharper versions of carhidl:-tipp!:u masonry bits- into my impacI d river and bOring. holes inTO the g ranite boulders that a glacier left in my backya rd . I figured the edges oftix: bit wou ld he 50 heat w hen J was d one that they would never bore through anythmg dSt'. But the noticeably d ull hits still cut through wood and heavy-gauge steel, although the holes in both wcrc d efi ni tdy rough. So what's the point? I think these bits are a jack-of-allu :ldcs and master of none. Thcy would be ideal for remodelers who n~1 10 dnl1 lhrough layers of d ifferent materials--for instance, tile on a morta r bW w ith plywood underneath, metal fi n-rubt heating panels over plaster walls, or m udsilh on a fou ndation. Bosch's bits an: available in 3-in., 6-in., and lO-i n. l('ngths, with ~t7.eli ranging from IAl in. to Ih in .

Jack-of-all-trades

_Cost: $4 to $18, depending on

Ace of spades r guess r ncver reall)' put much thought into thc brand of spaclt bit I was using. l re~ign ed m yself to the f.1C( that they were a mcam to an end and all about the same: quick tad un, likely to jam, and prone to blowing out tht back side of wood. Bosch's n('w Darclkvil bits were a sur p r i ~ing changc, f irst, they are made frum a thicker gaug(' of steel than most bits I've used , and Iheir sc.allorled shape makes quick work ofchtp cjecrion. In other word~ . they ~ il through stubborn framin?; lumber. T he two spu rs at the tip of each bit arc meant to hd p the bit en ter and exit the cut as cleanly as possible. Not only do they efTtcti vd y minimi7.c blowOUt, but they also score delicatc materials such ali veneer plywood well enough to case my hesita· tions about using them on cabincts. DareDevil bilS are available in i -in., 6-in., and 16-in. sh .. ft lengths (t!Xh:nsion shafts arc alsoavaila bJe), with si u:~ rangmg fro nl ~ in . to l Y.! in.

s i ~.

- Cost of si)(-pieee set: $14

Mike Guertin, editorial adviser

Can't get enough? ",......,.

For more tool news and p roduct reviews. visit o ur Tool Hound blog and video series, A Closer l ook, at WtNW,finehomebuilding.com. Recent p osts include: • Stiletto titanium pry bars

Brian Walo is an e lectrician in MOlint Ple asant , S.c.

Bandages for a day's work BAND - AID TOUGH - STRIPS _ Manufactured by Johnson & Johnson _ 866_565_2813; _ .bandaid.com _ Cost of a 20-paek: about $3.SO

Finding a bandage that can stand up to a full day of hands-on work is no easy task. So when I foun d Toug h-Strips, I started t&lling everybody who would listen. Available in waterproof as well as fi ber-reinforced style s {similar to duct tape), Tough-Stri ps have B super.sticky adhe-sive surrou nding the pad to keep the cut cleaner. To p ut it simply. these bandages hold on unt il you are ready to take them off.

• Ridgid compact tablesaw

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RAINWATER COLLECTION SYSTEMS HainwalOf CoIiocIitln is tlSst!ntlal whe<1 water Irom more COfll'1lntlOnal sources is limitoo i'l qoJanlll ~ or qL>al.ty Even whetI water is abundant, rainwal&r

ulllization oUerl so many 8conomic and environmental benefits Ihat il 11 on8 01 11'11 lolft:lations at "green building" de$gn.

In a ~ ltIanwallr system. waWlr is colected In downspoots. pre-fntered to flImova 9Oidl. and stored in a largesurlaoeorundefgroundlank A.

pump draws the water from the tank as nee<led to Irrigate lawns and landscaping. orlO fill sw1mmlng pools

Protect Exhaust Hose Neatly in the Wall

und ponds. Svppiemental Mlation and slEKlMzaUon \Ii recommended when rainwalN is 10 be u$l;Kl inside homes or Olfioes for klilet flushing. c~es waslllng, shoW9l1ng. cooking. or drinkl"!!.

We oller B I1ID9B 01 rtllabll. !ow·mainlenaoce soIut,ons lor rBII"Iwater collection. filtnthon. $lora"", and r&-use tor boIh r.,ldential II.nd commercial

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Today, y<XJ can piece the dryer flush ageinSllhe wall without crushing exhaust hose or restricting airflow. Install the Dryerbox' for more spaciovs, more efficient end sofer homes.

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tools&materials

CONTINUED

FIRST-RATE FIBER-CEMENT SAW FUEGO 5 - IN . FIBER-CEMENT SAW ( R34QO )

• Manufactured by Ridgid . 800-474-3443; www.ridgid.com • Cost: .bout $200

If you read only one sentence in this review, make it the next one: After using the Ridgid R3400, I'm giving away my two other fibercement saws. Most fiber--cemtnt saws look like modified sidewmders, but the RHOO was clearly built for the task. The difference~ are noticeable right out of the box. This saw's iDEne motor and rear handle put the cutting force dose to the right-side 5-in.-dia. blade, which makes straight cuts accurate. The saw weighs nearly 9 lb., about the same as a full-size sidewinder, but it's so well balanced that the heft goes unnoticed. The Just-collection system is unique and probahly the h-:st part of the tool. The

R3400 route5 du:;t through a n~ar-mounted fan and out an adjusrubk port. The fan is powerful enough to drive dust through the 8--ft. hose and into a collection system, a 5-gal. pail and a filter cap that come with the saw. I didn't RCt scientific with it, but the setup seems to capture 95% of the dust. They won't keep me from using it, but the saw has a couple of annoying aspcrts. First, the front handle can get in the way when

P rodvct~ listed a re produced of a corrosio n resistant a lloyed a luminum wi th on elastomericwaterproofing and a nti-fracturl! coating com bined with on 09greg ol ... bonding bose. fi nished materi als, ceramic ti la, marble, g ranite, el(: . can be applied immedia tely after

'=========:;r-,,,,;ii;oj insta llation r

Pc,, ",I0'"',;d

iii

. t.

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Buying or Renting

How to choose the best one for the job BY TOM MEEHAN

hen I startf'd myti l~rompnny in W 1970s.1 spentiSOOon a heavy. duty tub-style tile saw. It wasn't fla shy and did n"t have any bells and whistles. hut It was the hest tool at the time. Thirty years later, prices haven't risen all that m uch . but the optiuns art: incrt:<liblc. Then: arc: saw~ thai run smoothly cnough to make clean cuto; in gla\.~ [ile and other\ that arc powerful enough [0 bulldoze through miles of g-ranite withouf poppjn~ a circuit breaker. Some tile saws excel at accurate: bc:vd cuts, and others arc indispensable fo r making plunge cuts or (reating cu rve!\.. The fact is that there ,:Ire a Ilum ber of well-made, modern tile saws that allow inexperiencro tilesetters to complete projects that took old-limeN yeau tu perfect. But the trWhlt with any market that becomes flooded with options i~ mor~ dif~ ficulty in making the best cOOice. You can ask the clerk behind th~ r~nt ..1 desk at th~ local home center which saw is right for your project, but eha Il ct:~ are that the clerk's insig hts reach only a~ fa r as the saw or saw~ in strx:k. I have: been in the: tile: busmC$s for more than half my life, have :tl w:\~ had three or four installers on my crew, h av~ own~d mo re than 25 saws, anJ haH! tried COUl1t1 ~ others, The following questions and answcrs cover what r think are: the: most Important features and (lifferc:nces in modern tile saws. Ofcour~, nosingl!! saw docsc:verything perfectly, but knowi ng the saws' suengths and weak nesses makc:s it easier when choosing the right one for your next project.

Tom M eehan 15 a tile contractor in Harwich, M ass. His Web site is www.capecodtileworks.com. Photos by Justin Fink, except where noted.

CUT CAREFUllY; In 30 ytJars of ill'l;talling tile, I've never seen anybody cut by a ti]e-saw blade, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Treat these tools with the same caution as you would any power tool, and make sure to wear safety glUNS to protect .g.lnst flying tile chips.

FI NE HOMEHUILDING

Do I need a til. saw at all. or can I do the job with a score-andsnap tile cutter? I use a snap cutter as often as ponible. They are inelq)ensive,

quicK, clean, quiet, and dry. My favorite ones are made by Superior Tile Cutters. The trouble is that Ihis type of tool doesn't work with all varieties of tile-it is best suited for ceramics-dnd it can make only continuous straight cuts. You'll need a wet saw any time you have to cut around e lectrical outlets, vent registers, and plumbing penetr(ltions.

I want to tile the floor in my master bathroom with granite tile, set in a diagonal pattern. Can the necessary cuts be mad. on any wet saw?

Granite 15 one of the hardest tiles, and a diagonal pattern means that every tile on the perimeter of the room needs to be cut in half. Most wet saws can muscle through hard t ile, but models with small motors will bog down, have you running back and forth to reset popped circuit breakers, and burn out prematurely. Look for a SI!W that has a motor with at least 1JI:r hp (continuous, not peak). My choice for a full day of hard cutting of big tiles is the Husqvarna TS 250. Tile size matters, too. Although granite tiles are typically 12x12 or smilller, many saws aren't large enough to handle 18x18 or 24x24 tilas cut on the diClgonClI. Read the specs befon:! you buy, or bring in iii piece of tile when you go to rent a saw.

I want to finish my kitchen backsplash with 6)(6 ceramic tiles. What's a good saw for cutting tiles to fit around electrical outlets and switches? Tricky cuts sometimes can be minimized through careful layout. but often, a

tile needs to be cut into aU-shaped p iece--also referred to as a an e lectrical box or o the r o bstacle.

~ pair

pants~-to

fit around

In these cases, I often lift the t ile into the blade; larger-diameter blades are helpful here. Remember, only half of the blade is expo5ed, which means you have less than 3% in. of working room with 1:1 7路in. blade. larger machines have a 10-in. blade, thus more room for your hands and for the tilted tile. The Husq\larna TS 250 has eliceUent workin g room around the blade and is one of the best saws for this task. If you aren't comfortable lifting the tile into the b lade-and to be honest, only a profeSSional should be comfortable doing this-I suggest that you mark the cut on the back side of the tile and cut past the intended li ne. The curve of the blade will leave you with a clean cut on the front side. Don't worry if it's not perfect; the edges of the cut will be covered by the outlet cover plate.

My local home center has compact wet saws that cost about $100. Why should I pay more? Whatever you do, don't waste money

on a throwaway tile saw. If you choose an inexpensive tile saw made with almost all plastic parts, an underpowered motor, and a cheap water pump, you will be disappointed with the cutting performance. Hard porcelain and granite destroy those weak machines, and a weak machine can destroy fragile marble or glass tile . If it comes down to price or if you do only a few tile jobs a year, I recommend renting a good tile saw in路 stead. The re ntal fee of $40 to $60 11 day is reasonable, eliminates the worry of where to store a tool that is used only occasionally, and allows you to choose the type of saw you re nt based on the type of job.

lOp """ ~ h",,, f",,;,,~ ""~" ~ 1> ... &n..., rM<'" (.... , ... , "I H~"" .. ...

I have to make holes in the center of several tiles for

electrical outlets. Can I use a wet saw to make these cub? Yes. The safest way to make a

cut in the center of a tile is

by using a tile saw such as the DeWalt D24000 or the Ridgid R4010 with a plunge 'function. which allows the sawblade to be lowered into the tile. Just as with

U·shaped cuts (facing page), plunge cuts should be made from the back of the saw, and you should account for the curve of the blade. If the desired cut must be straight and neM-which is the case for an electrical out let- I trace it and make Ofle cut for each side of the opening.

The tile wainscot in my bathroom will b. capped with a til. chair rail. How do I make the inside and ouhid. miter cuts?

Although the se cuts a re 45" mtters, the easiest way to cut them accurately is with a saw that has a bevel function-basica lly a tilting head. Unlike modern woodcutting miter saws, the heads of wet saws tilt only in one direction, so the tile needs to be spun end for end when making matched inside and outside cuts. Again, a largediameter blade makes it a bit easier to keep your hands firmly positioned during these cuts. This bevel function also comes in handy on scenic tiles such as the ones shown below, that need to turn a corner without an interruption in the artwork. My two favorite saws for making these cuts are the DeWalt D24000 and the MK TX-3.

• • •

...

If the opening is small

or won't be seen, I make a series of plunge cuts from the back side, stopping just shy of the face of the tile . After I've made several cuts in each direction, I tap the front side of the tile with the end of a chisel to create the opening. www.fin chomcb,,;l d i n~.cum

AUt;UST/SEPTEMBER 2009

I want to do something special by incorporating curves and inlays

in my til.work. Can this

work be done with

stan-

dard wet saw?

Simple curves can b. done with the help of a standard wet saw, a pair of tile nippers, and some quick touch-up with a grinderl polisher. Anything more complicated than that requires a specIalized tool called a ring saw, which is a cross between a tile saw and a bandsaw. The advantages of a ring saw are that the cuts are smooth, accurate, and usually accomplished successfully on the first tile, which reduces aggravation and waste.

Learning curvâ&#x20AC;˘â&#x20AC;˘. Ring-blade tile saws can make culs IhClt would be

very difficult or impossible with a conventional wet saw. large tilas slich as the one show" above might need to be cut from both directions.

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I'm tiling the floor in my kitchen this winter, and I don't want to work outside in the cold. I, a wet saw OK to use indoors? Unlike cutting wood Inside. dust isn't a concern when cutting tiles, but water

is. tt's nard to look at a wet saw and judge whether it will keep water contained or drench everything in a Soft. radius. Most models have a small rubber flap on the back of the blade hood that is supposed to prevent water from spinning off the blade; I often supplement these flaps with a larger piece of tile membrane (inset photo below). The other concern is water running off the edges of the cutting table, particularly II problem when cutting large tiles that hang over the edges. Some wet saws-DeWalt's 024000 and Ridgid's R4010, for instance-have sloped trays to collect overspray and direct it back toward the water reservoir. The trade-off he re is a much larger setup. The MI< TX-3 (photo right), which uses a misting system, is also a drier a hemative. Noise is a lso a consideration in confined indoor setups. Tile saws with behdriven motors run much more quietly than tile saws with direct-drive motors. The Husqvama T5 250 and the Felker FTS-150 are excellent choices .

....

When I am cutting small glass or mosaic

tiles, the little pieces fall into the Yt-in.wid. channel in my til. saw's cutting

tabl •. II there. better way to control these small piece,? You can get a round this proble m in two ways. One is to make cuts

to small tiles before cutting them free of the rest of the sheet (photo right). If they are not part of a larger sheet, make a zero-clearance cutting plat-

form (photo left). To do this, cut three-fourths of the way through a piece of 12x12 tile, then set this piece of tile on the wet saw's cutting platfonn. The cutting groove is the same width as the wet-saw blade, and I can use /II Speed Square or another piece of tile to keep the small pieces square when sliding the table to make cuts. If you don't want to bother with jigs, cOflsider the Gemini Revolution, which has a zero-clearance throat insert (photo above).

If I could have only one, I'd pick two IN SOME WAYS, A WET SAW IS A WET SAW. AU but the obKure spedatty UWI use diamond-coated circular sawblades cooled by water that is either held below the blade or pumped from a re5ervoir_ But of all the saws I've borrow.d, bought, or been given, the DeWalt 024000 il my favorite. Thil il the wilt uw that tile installers have been waiting for. Not only does it cut perfect miters in any kind of r.ised trim pieces, but the 11h-hp motor mUsc\M through heavy·duty straight cuts, too. The saw weighs only 69 lb., <lind the stand adjusts to four different working heighu. A pair of adjult.ble wlt.r nozzles---on. on .ach side of the blade-let me put water where I need it for different cutting talkl. Th. saw i! big, but that's a small price to pay for water overspray guardl and collection tray! that almo!t .liminate the need for tarps. There are times wh.n a large saw is overkill, so I keep an MK·170 in my ...an, too. It's not on par with saws that h..... sliding tabl.s, but it's a good ace up my slee...e. MK Diamond MK·170

SOURCES DeWalt 024000 www.dewa/t.com Purchase price: $1150

G.mini R....olution XT www.geminisaw.com Purchase price: $1100

Felker FT5-150 www.falkersaws.com Purchase price: S600

Husq ...arna Tilematic TS 250 http://us. hu5q ...arnacp.com Purcha5e price: $1100

www.finehomebuildlng.com

Ridgid R4010 www.ridgid.com Purchase price: $700

MK Diamond www.mkdiamond.com

MK-170 Purchase price: $150 MK·370 Purchase price: $350 MK TX-3 Purchase price: $1000

Sup.rior Til. Cutter WW'N.krafttool.com Purchase price: $35 to $120

AUUUST/ SEPTl:.MHER 1Q09

FI:-JF. HOMF.RUILDING

ean no l on~e r call myself a ' rim ca r~ n le r ixcause: these days. I do a link hI! of c1ierything. 1 wasa trim car penter for most

or the paS[ 15 yea rs, thoug h, and a boat-

huilder hcft'lTC tha t, so I feel comfo Tlahle :r..1}'mg thut I know:l thing or two about trimmi n,l!; out a wlIIdaw, and about how water affects wood.

Eve ry t ime [ dropped a piece of windo w

#20 biscuit

trim from scaffoldi ng 30 ft. in the air, I found

21h·io. toenllil ~

mY5elf ronembermg anothaca rec:r past, thl" days I spent work ing in a cabinet shop, w here work is casy to control a nd weathe r ISO ' , a concern. Finally, I came to my senses when J was presenTed Wifh 27 w indows to t flm for one house. T hat job helped me to develop a method fo r installing e)(ttriur trim that'~ casier un my body,

START BY MEASURING EVERY WINDOW

Most windows come marked wit h dimensions, but don't rely o n those numbers for your trim. Measure the height and w idth of the fi nished face of the actual window. Add V. in. to each d imension to allow room for caulk and a smooth installation . Finally, add the des ired reveals to the lengths of the head and sill, and you're ready to cut.

that is s,1fcr and faster, and that also yields more durable resul ts. To make this process as effici ent as pos~i ble, I even prime, putty, and paint the casi ng~ hefore mst:lllalion.

Cutlist s a nd st ations add effi ciency When I worked in the cabinet shop. I org-.m izcd my projects w hh cullists and made shop d rawinW' tha t mowC(1 how everything was going to be buil, before a saw ever touched wood . Th~ prvCts..<; I created for assemhling window trim in the shop slarts with that premise. As with the cahinel work,l o rga n iz~ th~ sh(,p into efflcient worksta tions to build the trim. I wa nt the wo rk flo w to move so that the pieces arc cuI and the assembly happens in such a way t hat a few folks can work at the sam e time and not get in each other's way. The process, however, begins on sile. When (he w indows arri ve, I g rab a ta pe measure, R;e t a noteboo k, and make a list of all che windows. I measure eaeh to d eterm ine the fin ished hetght and width ~ that I t a n make a t utlist. I add Ys in. to each di m en~lOn to allow for caul k and to he mr!'; the ca~ i ng units will install easily by jusl slippiog- over the windows. F inally. Iincak evcrydling into a formula (sidebar righl). To kttp track of which window is which, I u~ the lencrro labels alt.Jehed to tht:m dl (he faelory. O nce che casmg unit is built, I mark the respecti ve !cn er on its back. I iosmll paimed trim, 50 1 build everyth ing w ith primt:C1stock . r cut all tht pitces first. then a~scm blc cach uni t w Ith hi~uits, glue, and screws 10 ensure that joint~ won', open over time. Once all thc un its are built, :tad [he nail and K rew holes a rc fill ed , I prime any exposed wOOC""l a nd glvc everythinJl: a fir:.t coot offini sh palOl.

Ge t the p ro p o rtio n s right The w (ndo ......s On the project fea tu red here.: are a mixtureofMan'in (www.marvin.com)duuble_ wwwjin~hom~h\l! ldin)\ . com

Formulas feed

the cutllst Whether )/ou're t rim m ing one window or a whole housefu l, these simple formula s make compiling your cutlist a piece of cake. HEAO end SILL Width -+- VI in. -+2)( (casing width) -+- 211 (desired revea l o n each sl de)

LEGS He i9ht + VI in.

leg: S/ 4-in. factory.primed, finger·Jointed ceclar

Prima r 2Y2-in. ga l... ani~ed finish nails

WindOWliill profile IS· p it ch

PI. in_

'1 !~L~~:;::::=jl----~t ~ 2Y.t In.

-:>'"I

D,;p "'go. Yo in. wide by 'II in. doep AUG UST/SEPTEMBER 200Q

M ILL THE SILL

KEEP THE CASING SQUARE DURING ASSEMBLY

Use a stable material like clear verticalgrain Douglas fir (shown here). Shape

Biscuit ti-le legs to the head, and glue ilnd nail the sill to the legs. Use an exterior glue such as Titebond III (www.titebond.com). Dry-fit the pieces before assembly. One bar clamp is enough to hold things together as the glue dries. Use a framing square to check the assembly throughout the process.

the stock, add a drip edge. then prime with a high-quality exterior primer.

Slot the legs and the head. When the head and legs arc different thicknesses, register the fence to the back of t he st ock. Registor off the filee when joining he ilds and legs of the same thickness.

Toenail the corners. Place a t oenail in the inside edge of the leg using 2'h-in. galvanized finish na ils . This adds strengt h to th e jo int while the glue dries so that it doesn't twis t d uring the res t of t he assembly.

Straight stock gets an angled rip. Start with an appropriJte leng t h of l'h-in. by !lA路in. st ock. Rip if 15" bevel to creat e the sill's pitched face. Lower the blade and rese t the fence. fhen kerf t he bottom of the sill to create if drip edge.

Pillne the face smooth. Use a powe r planer to remo .... e saw marks and to dimension the sill's fI.'lt top to equal the depth of the wIndow's cladding .

hung-, casement, and fixed units. All of the Windows have aluminum-dad exteriors and primed wood mtO:-flors, and they aTC II1stalled with a nailing flange. The nailing flange is set I in . back from the face of the unit, which III turn ~nds up I In. proud of tht unsid~d buildin?;. Because Ont of the functions ofthc trim is to protect the window, I lik~ to us~ at l~ast 5/4-in. stock. Likewise, if there is going to be 40

FINE HOMEBUILDING

a reveal betwt;.""to the two components in thi~ a~semLly, T prefer that the trim be proud of the winaow. L=ving the window proud of the trim looks cheap. Getting the trim width correct can be a hit trickier. Stock dimemions (3Y:!-in. and 5Yz-in. boards) wrdy create pleasing proportions. The right width typically Jepends on the size, the shape, and the style ofrhe hou~ and windows.

The windows on this house called for a Craftsman-style trim design, which [ created u~ing various reveals. By bumping the head casi ng up to I Vl in. th ick and by having it extend pa.'>t the legs by Vz in. un each side, I was able to do two th ings. Fir~t, the tbICker head cas1ng provided add 1tional protection to the w indo\v. Second, the 'ii-m. reveal octween the hcad and legs added a subtle shadowline ro c r~ate an 11lteresting

NAIL THE CASING; SCREW THE SILL The unit slips over the win-

dow, then is attached to the house with finish nails and screws . The legs and head are caulked between the casing and the window; later. the head casing is flashed into the hous8wrap.

Sink tn. sCl"ftwh.lId. Nail the he/Jd /lnd legs every 9 in. using 2'/r-in. galvanized finish nails. Then screw the sill to the 'raming. Use II ,/.-;0. countersink bit to link tn. screwhead about 'h in. b.low the surface. Fill the hole with a plug made of the same material.

look. Both the: head and the leg s[(xh arc factory. primcd finger-joimed cedar. It's Hable and weather rcsiSl:ant, and it ukcs paint well. I eased the edges for a softer look and a morc durable fini~h. I milled the SIll from durable Douglas fir. T he sill's shapt: is all about function. The top i~ pitched to shed water, and the bottom is kcrfed 10 prevent waTer from w icking up behlOd the trim. www.findlUlm,buildinx路com

I made the sill Tun past the casing by V. in. on e:.ch ~ide:'5 wdl. I plugg芦lthe head and the sill rc\'eals mto my formula, so I was able [Q cut everything first and assemble the piece., later. I've used this process on four projects now with four difft'rent window-trim styles. and the results have been uniformly awesome. The trim unirs go up quickly and p.1inlcS5ly. and the painter I work with loves makmg

just one: trip to fill nail and screw holes .and to caulk. and onc: trip for a final (second} coot. I don't ha ve to worry as much aoout (he weather. and my body IS thankful for me additional rcst. 0 Mike Vacirca co路owns LastingNest Build路 ers (www.lastlngncst.biz). a building and remodeling company in Seanle. Photos by Chris Ermides, except where noted . AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2009

PI"F H()\fFIIlTJLI)IN(,

because they are much more economical than liquid dyes, and J find that powder gives me mueh better control over color strength. A typICal mixture is 1 07.â&#x20AC;˘ of powder dissolved III 1 qt. of warm distilled water; this mixture then can be altered to achieve the strength desired. [ prefer to m ix batches of dye at double strength (2 oz. of dye to I qt. uf water), then add water as needed to get the look I'm after. To help control the penetration of the dye so that the entire su rface of the door absorbs the same, r first apply a thin wash cuat. For this project, J used shellae-3 parts of denatured alcohol to 1 part 2-1h. cut shellac. Distillecl water also can he used; your choiecdepcnds on the look you arc trying to achieve. A wash coat of shellac partially seals the surface of the door and controls the penetration orlhe color. Water, though, soab into the pores of the wood, helping to control the absorption of the dye and creating more variation between light and dark areas.

Seal the dye, and apply the glaze Regardless of whether you used shcllac or water as the initial wa~h coat to seal the bare wood, use shdlac to create a thin film fimsh over the dye in preparation for the glaze coat that come~ next. Remember, shellac dfles faster than oil-based prooucts, so it becomes tacky quickly. Coat the surface with as few brush stroke:; as necessary (Q cover the wood, then [eave It alone. On the plus side, quick drying time means that 1 can apply three coats in under an hour. There's no need for sanding between coats, but you do need to sand the final coat lightly with nO-grit sandpaper and wipe the door surface with a clean cloth in preparation for the glaze coat. A water-based stain can be used for the glaze, but oil stains dry more slowly, which makes blending easier. Wh ether it's water- or od -based, don't use a conventional liquid penetrating stain; it's too thin and doesn't have as much depth of color. -4-4

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STEP 2

DYE AND SEAL Don't be intimidated; dye is simple. Add 2 oz. of dye to 1 qt. of clean water, and s t ir the mixture until the powder dissolves. Then sme<lr a sample onto a white paper plate to cheek the strength o f the color. If the mixture is too weak, add more dye . Too strong, add more wJter.

STEP 4

TOP COAT S... I the d.al whh 'he/fac and waJl[, For a nice tactile surface, use a top coat of shellac followed by a coat of paste wax applied with (}(XX) steel wool f a Ct"e.lfe a softer sheen. Finally, buff out thf) wax with a :.oft, lint- free cloth. The finished door will have II wonderlul surface Ihal is a pleasure

to touch.

www.finchom cLxulJing .cu11l

The beauty is in the layers When people talk about buying a can of stain, they are probably referring to a group of oil- or water-based products known as pigment stains. If you mention the word dye, though, people are intimidated. Don't be "fr(lid. A dye is just another type of stain, a colored powder or liquid mixed with water. It's that simple. The effect of stained wood is similar to looking through (II window covered with a thin sheet of plastic; you can still see the grain, but it's muddy and somewhat blurred (photo top left), Unlike these semiopaque pigment stains, dye is transparent. In other words, dye is like the same window without the plastic covering;

FROM BLAH TO BEAUTIFUL

SAME DYE, DIFFERENT LOOKS Bare wood

Sare wood

you can d early see the wood grain and color. By layering the dye and the stain on the same piece, you can create virtually any look. For instance, when applied over a base coat of medium-yellow dye, the same Georgian Cherry gel stain in the photo above now complements the dye to create a deep, glowing finish. Glowing brown isn't your thing? No problem. By using the sarna medium-yellow dye base coat but altering the color of gel stain used for the glaze, you ca n tweak the appearance of the finish to suit your t aste.

Lock in the glaze with a clear coat

SHOPPING LIST Finishing materials vary based on t he look you want to achieve. Here are the supplies you need to finish the door shown here.

POWDER DYE

ALKYD GLAZE BASE

Early American Maple, medium yellow, about $7 pe r oz. www.wdlockwoOO .com

Benjamin Moore #409, $15 per qt . www.benjaminmoore.co m

SHelLAC

CLEAR PASTE WAX

Zinsser's SealCoat, $11 per qt. WVffI. zi nsser.com

Liberon Black Bison fine paste wax, $20 www.liberon.com.au

OIL-BASED GEL STAlN

0000 STeEL WOOL

Brown Mahogany, $11 per pt. , - =w.generalfinishes.com

FINE HOMF.BUILDING

T hat said , gel stains used out of the: c;ln a fe a hit too thick. I like to thin the gel slightly and extend its work109 time by mixing in a hit of clear glaze hase. I typically do this mixing by eye-ad ding just enough of the glaze base to create a cream y consistency-hut a basic recipe is I part glaze base, 1 part mineral spirits, and 2 parts gel stain. T he glaze mixture can be ap plied u sing a brus h , a paper tow el, or a pad . You also can man ipulate the glaze to achieve difterent look:;. The glaze can be fea th ered w ith a dr y brush to create a soft. even color, re moved in the center of a panel and pulled into the corners, or pounced with a brush to cr eate light and dark areas where desm: d . H ove fu n with it. If you d on 't li ke what you see, sim ply w ipe the surface before it dries, and start again. If the 5ur 路 face has started to become tacky, wet a paper towel or a rag w ith mineral sp ir its to remove the g laze easily from the sealed mrface. Once you have the surface glazed, let it 5it fo r at least a da y prior to fini shing.

Four- pack of pads, $12 WNW.liberon.eorn.a v

Before applyi ng the fina l protective elear coat, it's a good idea to seal or lock in the glaze with anothe r application of shellac. T he shellac call be sprayed, brushed, or podded 0 11 , but take care with brushing and paddi ng because these application tech niqucs can lift the glaze in areas if you ace too aggressive. The top co.'l.t can be polyurethane, v;l rlllsh, beque r, o r addi tional coats of shel lac followed by a coat of paste wax, wlm;h is what I did for the p ro jcct show n hc rc. Avoid u sing penet rating fi n ishes sllch as ooiled linseed oil fo r the fina l clea r coat. T h is type of finish needs to soak into the surf:1ce of the wood to cure properly, and the layers of shellac prevent this penetration, leavlIlg you with a sticky mess. D Peter Gedrys is a p roh,ssional finisher in East Haddam, Conn Photos by Justin Fink.

With stricter energy requirements and improved light technology, we a" may be switching to CFLs and LEDs

.•

• •

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•

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•

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.....__. •

BY SEAN GROOM

[though std1a rdatt~dy .small slIce of the mcandescem-

'v "

dominated lighting market, energy-effiCl(~nt compact

fluoresc ents (CFLs) and light-emitting diodes (LEUs) have gainttl traction over the past few years thanks to grecn-bui lding program~ and some progressive local energy codes. They're about to get a real boost The Energy Independence and Security Act (EISA) 0£2007 soon will limit the number of watts a bulb can consume for a gIven num~r of lumens. a measure of light output. Thl': legislation takes dfect f<1ll. 1,2012, when the

luminary equivalent of toda}"~ lOOw Incandescent bulb will be allowed to consume only 72w. (Lower-wattage bulbs also will be affected.) In other words, incande~ent lightbulbs need to become about 28% more efficient to survive. Some Industry Insiders think they will, but CFLs and LEDs already meet the m:w requirements. Consequently, the most li kely sccnario is that incandescent hulbs w ill be replaced either by CPLs or LEDs, depending on the application.

Compact fluorescents come of age CFLs wac introduct"J in the early 19')()s, but they weren't ready for prime time. Early CFLs product;:d harsh blue light, hummed, and flickered. making a poor Ant impre~s ion. Today's CFLs, howeve r, produce light III the www.finchomcbuilding.com

" '- .. ...._..._~

-.....

Small, powerful, a nd .Hid.nt. Now that they produce white light appropriate for residential settings, LEDs grouped

together in .. bulb pack enough punch that this Bw LED from Nexxus replaces a 75w PAR30 incandescent bulb. AUGUST/SFPTFMBF.R 2009

No matter what type of fixture or bulb you're using, you need to understand light temperature to light your home effectively_ There is a spectrum of white light from "warm," which has a yellowgold hue, to "cool," which has a bluish cast. The hue of the light is described by correlated color temperature (Cen and is measured in degrees Kelvin, as shown on the scale on the right. Lower numbers are associated with warmer light and higher temperatures with cooler light. For example, an incandescent bulb commonly used in homes has a temperature of about 2700"K, while the daylight fluorescenu commonly used in office buildings are about 4100"K. Along with most finishes in our homes, people look best under warmer Iight-270a"K to 3aOOOK. Although cooler light looks harsh on wood, it can be complementary to w hite and stainless-steel finishes, which are common in more modern homes. A second measure of light quality i5 color-rendering in路 dex ,CRI) When 'IOU com! the lame c )lor und r d,ffl ent Ight uree yO ~ 11 g notice a color hift CRI attempt to quantity this shift by describing-on a scale of a to 1 OO-now well a light source renders color. Good CFLs have a CRI above 80. H you' re in the market for LED lighting, you' ll ha ye to see the light fo r yourself to make an educated purchase. LED standards for CCT or CRI have been voluntary, and some manufacturers' ratings might be called generous.

FIN !', HOMEBUILDING

No..-th light (blue sky)

A MULTIDIRECTIONAL LIGHT SOURCE THAT WORKS WEll FOR AMBIENT, TASK, A ND DECORATIVE LIGHTING

Oyerca~t

day light

Replaceme nt bulbs for e YlJry applicl}tiO". Often part o f t he fixture , flu oresce nt lig hts need a ballas t to operate. These replacemen t bulbs from Philip s, however; have onboard e lectronic ballasts, which means they can be screwed in t o existing fixtu res

6000" K - - -

for mo re efficient ambient and decorative lighting_ CFLs w ith pin bases are for fluorescent-only fixtures required by some

5000" K- -- : ~

Noon

daylight Direct sun

'" ~

energy codes.

Electronic fhlshbulbs

4000"K- -

27000K range, m imicking the warm, amber-hued light of incandescent bl1lbs. Also, the old magnetic ballasts have been replaced with quiet electronic

3000"K - -Household lightbulb~

Early sunrise Tungsten light Candlelight

ballast~

t hat don't fl icke r.

CFL s arc d ram atica lly m ore effi cient th<l ll inca ndes-:c nt light b ulbs, using between 50% and 80% les~ energy, and they last for abo ut 10,000 ho urs, nearly 10 times 10nger than incandt:5ce nt5. They also C05t dramatically more. However, replacing one 50垄, 75w incandescent bulb with.a $.t'iO, 19w CfL savt:s 5fi3kwh of dt:<: tricity ovt: r the life of the hnlb. That comes to about $75 in savings, depending on the cost of electricity where you live. On t he downs ide, a typICal C FL contams som ewhert" between 4 mg and S mg of merc ury. Cri tics ofCFL5 highlight the hea lth a nd environmental ha7-<1rds of merc ury, and special precautiuns should Ix taken if the hulhs break in your bouse. Pro po nents a rgue that the m ercury In a C F L is far less than the amount o f me rcury emissions t hat would be released from a coal-fired powe r pla nt if you were using an incandescent bulb. RegardlC5s, when a eF L bUfn5 out, it must be recycled so that the mercury doesn't end up polluting the environment. Somt" retailers ofCFLs,

-'::.._...:::..-==:..==::.:=..:.::::~:::l;;. ... , 1:::"''"'''-___ ~

_ . , , - - --::::

)

Continuous titsk rubes fightin9. The unique and connectors of Fee/uK's SlimUne allow end-to-end installation,

eliminating sf1adows and

dark spots between fixtures in underCiJbinet and cove lighting_

â&#x20AC;˘

at a glance Dedicated ambie nt light. Retrofitting an old recessed can with it screw-base CFL could cause premature heat-induced bulb failÂˇ ure. CFl -dedicated recessed C.'lns properly dissipate heat and maximize light output. The can above, from Halo, ;s remarkably similar t o a standard incandescent fixture with the addition of a ballast "". .,"!oh.d ~o the junction box. The fixture below, from Ughtolier, orients the bulb horizontally and needs just 3Vz in. of deilrilnce.

One measure of lighting efficiency is efficacy. Efficacy is expressed as lumens per watt (ImJw)the amount of light produced for each unit of electricity consumed. Incandescent lights have efficacies between 10 and 20 Im/w, and fluorescents range from 60 to 100 Im/ w. LED products tested last year by the U.S. Department of Energy'5 Solid-State Lighting program were in the 70 to 80 Im/w range. However, LEOs are expected to surpass fluoresc.ents in the next year and exceed 150 Im/w by 2015. The chart shows representative examples.

including Jkea and The Home Depot, offer CFL recycling. To find other recycling locations, visit www.epa.gov,

Light-emitting diodes are the future LEDs are a Silicon Valley technology, manufactured in a clean room, just like a computer chip, The chip is usua!ly about I mm sq. Current run\ through the chip, exciting the electrons and creating light. Asman bulblike cover focuses the light, LEDs can't actually produce white light; white light must be created either by combining colors or by using a phosphor coating Inside the bulb. The lighting industry is betting heavily on forging ahead with significant advances in white-light LED technology in the next few years. J\.1any of today's LEDs, however, already perform wdl when used in the appropriate location, Manufacturers describe LEOs as cool-operating lamps. While it's true that the lit end of an LED is cool to the touch, the semiconductors do produce heat. Aod just as computer chips require cooling to perform properly, LEDs need thermal management, The heat sink, usually a number www.finehomebuilding.com

Incandesce nt

CFL

LED

Watts

lumens

675

730

Efficacy

(Im/w)

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2009

1 TIN

DIO E

A DIRECTIONAL LIGHTING SOURCE THAT WORKS WELL FOR TASK, ACCENT, AND DECORATIVE LIGHTING

ePlltCement bulbs. Most LED

replacement bulbs are directionill for ileeent or tilS" lights, such as the MR16 replacement from Ne}()(us at left. A new generation of LEDs is trying to

offer multidirectional ambiv"! light with replacements for ftuorescent tubes (from lIumisys, above) and for the common table lamp (ff-om Philips, center).

of large aluminum fins located ncar the base of the hlinp, is a critical component of an LED. LEOs arc already more efficient than incandescent bulbs, pro-ducing approximately 60 to 70 lumens per watt, and manufacture rs expect eflicu:~ncy to surpass that ofCFLs soon. Their 50,()()J-hour average life span translates into 34 years when used four hours a day. There are other advantages to LEDs' solid-state engineering as well: They are immune to vibration, and theIr performance improves in cold tempnatufes, making them ideal for outdoor applications. Cost is currently the biggest drawback to LEDs. A screw-in LED replacement for a recessed light costs about $ 120, but remember that LEOs arc the ligh ti ng equiyalent of a computer chip: Just as Intel founder Gordon Moore preclicted that chip capacity would double evny two years (MOClre'S Law), Haitz's Law (named for scientist Roland Haitz) states tha[ every decade, LED prices will fa ll by a factor of 10 while performance will increa~e by a factor of20. Sti ll , a word of caution is appropnate. T h ere are some wellengineered LED bulbs and fixtures on the market, hut with so many manufacturers jumping on the b.1ndwagon, there are plenty ofLEDs with harsh light and poor switching and dimming respume. It's a good idea to evaluate these pnxiucts carefully before purchasing.

Match the light to the job Both CFLs and LEDs are avaibhle with screw-in hases::1s repl::1cement bulbs for existing fixtures, but if you are building a new home or remodeling, you might consider fixtures dedicated to one technology or the other. Dedicated fixtures can lengthen the life span of the bulb and maximize its strengths. Hath CFLs and LEOs playa role in providing ambient, accent, task, ;"lOd decor:ltive lighting, the four lay-

Sou rces

Out-af-sight t.nk light. Under e<lbinets is a natural place to use LEDs because their small size keeps them out of sight and because they're c;ool to the touch . Also, unlike f/uorescents, they don't interiere with radio or TV raception. Available in a range of styles, be stJre to select only the amount of light you need so that glare off the counter isn't ,m issue. The fixture above from Kienler is one example.

ers th::1t create a well-lit room (~c "Kitchen Lighting DeSIgn," FHR #199 and onhne at Finellomebuilding.com). But CFLs and LEDs aren't necessarily lllterchangeable. That's largely because CFL~ arc a mlllridirection::1llight source and LEDs are a point source. Because they are muitidirectional and p rod uce large amounts of diffuse light, CFLs work well for amhient, task, and decorative lighting (phOTOS pp. 48-49). They can be uSt"d nearly everywhere that incandescent bulbs are used, particularly in table lamps and in shielded sconces, where the fabric or glass ::1dds color to the light. In the bathrOClm, when they're used behind opaque glass, CFL do a great job of lighting your face. In kitc hens, in laund ry rooms, and in offices, CFLs produce bright-enough ;Jmbicnt light to Illuminate worksurfaces. CFLs are not appropriate everywhere, however. Locations where lights are switched on and off quickly-sayan entry hal l or a coat doset-an' not ideal because short-cycle switching: reduces the bulbs' life span. CFLs also need time to attain their tull brightness. Also, if you're using::1 CFL bulb in an omdoor fixture. make ~urc [hat it's

The companies listed here had products that impressed us

American Fluorescent www.americanfluorescent.com â&#x20AC;˘

at LightFair, the annual lighting-industry trade show. Visit www.american lightingassoc_com for a comprehensive list of lighting manufacturers.

llumisys www_ilumisys_c;om .Kiehler _.kichler.com â&#x20AC;˘ Q5RAM Sylvania www.sylvania.com

FI NE HOMEBUILDING

Kind of canlike . Ahhough the fixtures look quite common, like the Halo model above, the light module for recessed LED fixtures bears little re5emblanr;e to a bulb. With a screw·in adapter like the one shown attar;hed to the Halo module below, LEDs can be retrofit to existing rer;essed fixtures.

&eeflflnt accent lighting. Small disks (from Kienler. above) and night·jjghu (from Kiehle,. below right) fHOvidft the low light levels needed for high· lighting artwork or pro ....iding saf!? nighttime na ....igation. Easily conCIN/ed, they work in e nclosed cabinets without heat b uildup and use vel)' little energy to illuminate.

labeled for outside use, whieh rnt:;lns that tht hallaH will work in cold temperatures.

Task and accent lighting require focused light LED~ produce a focused beam of light. Although their relatively small output means they can't dHow light as fa r as somt incandesCtllts, there are plenty of circumsr.ance5 where they work well as task ligh t ~. And they're ideal for am:nt l i~h ts because they don't proouce UV- lig ht th.u damagu ~inting5 and fa brin. Became LEOs arc small and easIly produced a5 pucks or strip lighting, tht:y arc ickal for undcrcabinct illumination or a\acccnt lights hldden in COVt:5 or inside cahinets, where sm.111 size a 00 low heat output art: importanL Glare can be a concern with bright LED fixtures, especially reccssed lights. San Francisco Bay Area lightingcbigner Eric Johnson recom~ m en.:l~ uSI ng a diffllx r With recessed cam or, at the very least, recess-Iftg the bulb as dttp into the 6nure as pt.Dsibh:. Lightolic:r's Calculitt: is a lensed fixture that l1.\t:!O a diffu.'\er 10 create whitt: light. I nste.1d of cootlllg (he LED bulbs with phosphor, the

(

phosphor is applied to the diffuser. Und er the first approach, variations in the amount of phosphor coating on each diode affect the ovt:r:III color ofth~ light. When you have multiple downlights in a room, thi s ca n T e~ uh in variations in the light from the differt:nt fixtures. it's easier to app ly an even, consistent pho~phor coating to a glass di/: fuser, improving the consistency and tht: color of tht: light. Placing the reflector :Ioove the phosphor layer resul u in more light output than other methods and less gl.lTt, accord ing to the manufacturer. A u niqut: ft:atu re of LEOs i~ that ;l singlt: fixtur(" with different types of diodes C..l0 creale multiple tempt:ra turt:5 and colors of light, ope:ning new design possibilities for accent lighting. One: lasllhillg: Both CFLs and LEOs C.1n be uicky to dim. The 001law:md drivers, respecri\·ely. muS{ be compatible with th~ dimme:rs. and the lig ht may cut out bcfor~ dimming down all the way. This information is usually indicatoo on tht product. 0 Con tributing editor Sean Groom lives outside Hartford, Conn. Photos by Dan Thornton, except where noted.

CooPE!f" Lighting (Halo)www.cooperlighting.cam • Cree www.cree.com ·Fe.lux www.feelux.com ·..Iournee lighting www,joumeelighting.com UghtQlier _.Iightoller.com • Nexxus _ .nexxuslighting.com • Maxlite www.maxlite.com • Philips www.philipl.com

www.fjn~homdlUi!ding.cnm

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 11)09

r BY REX ALEXANDER

rer I've built and installed a custom kitchen, the featun~ thar gets the most praise isn', the finish, the WlJ'j I' v~ carefully aligned the grain p<lm:rns, or the consistent reveals :uound the doors and drawers. h's always the pullout tra\h drawer, and for good rca.'iOn. Not only does the tr:_sh drawer hide refuse and recydahles. but it also helps to contain the odor that can come from an empty CClt-food can or the ~,ease from last night's dinner. Tilt: ixSl aspect of this design is that it can Ix an easy upgrade to intc:grarc a drawer imo all existing cabinet, preferably in or lIe<l1 the sink tMitC. Ollce you've budl the drawer, it's only a matter of removing the cabinet door and installing new drawer slides. Commercially produced versions are ava iblblt", but why spend the money when you Cdn do it yourt.c!ffor a fcw hucks? The materials are easy to find In any home center or lumberyard. rye found til.1t a gOl".1 size fur the plastic w~stt"足 ha~ket i~ ahout 10 In. wine, 14 In. deep, and 16 in. tall, which lea yes enough room for a urawcr aboye. For drawer ~I ides, I usc ~Imple epoxy-cOOlted. ~ide足 mount modds from Blum (www.blum .com). They .m: inexpensive, bUI m t:y're rated for 100 lb. Jf you choose a different type of slide. be sure w determine the necesSary clearance before building l~ trash drawer. 0

Cabinetmaker Raj( Alexander lives in Brethren, Mich . Photos by

Charles Bickford. 52

F I NE HOMEBUILDING

it's simple and sturdy, and it hides disposables only a slide away - -

BUILD THE DRAWER

o Use simple joinery. Made from Y,·in. birch plywood, the trash unit is essentially a dr<lwer turned upside down, reinforced with an angled support, and anad\ed to the cabinet door. Start by cutting the sides for the drawer and joining them with biscuits.

Wasteb<lsket (approKimately 10 in. wide by 14 in. deep by 16 in. tilill

e Make a pattern. Make a cardboard template that fits snugly baMath the outside rim 01 the wastebasket; the templwted hole is traced onto the top. After drilling a hole for blade access, Cllt out the basket hole with a jigsaw. Use a 4·in-1 rasp or sandpaper to dean up the edge. for a final fit. Nail and glue the top into p lace flush with the top edges of the drawer.

Veneer tape hides plywood edges .

SUPPORT THE DOOR

o Lock in the brackets. Notch the angled drawer supports on the Iront and back so that they sl ide ins id e the drawer. Fasten them with 1-in. screws.

o Attach the backing.

Cut the front panel, then g lue and na il it bctween the angled supports. Drill four 'I.-in. ho les, two in the drawer front and two in the front panel for the screws that attach the drawer to the cabinet door.

HANG ITIN THE CABINET

" Make a drawer-slide jig. Before you install drawer llid.n. make a jig from 'fo·in. medium· denlt\y fiberboard (MDF) or plywood. Dri ll holes that correspond to those on the slides, and attach the jig to a small blod at one end. With the jig aligned to the slides' position, use an awl to start pilot holes for the mounting sc rews. Note: In fKe-frame cabinets, you can sc rew spacers to the cabinet sides as the author is do ing here. or you can use a slide h<lnger, <IS seen on the bad, of the slide above.

o Use tape and shims to install the dOOf. Existing cllbinet door

Dri ll't.-in holes in the drawer box's front face and nea r the bottom of the front pane l. Attach heavy. duty double--stick carpet tape to the front of the unit . lay shims of the intended reveal thickness (usu· ally about YI in.) along the bottom of the cabinet openin g. Remove the backer on the tape, position the door on the shims, and p .... sh the door onto the tilpe. After checking the re'<'eals on the sides. ease out the drawer. and screw the door to the ...."it from i"side.

Ot a whik, Web and Helen Stayman had wanted to build a new house on their wooded hill outside of town, so chey had thought 3baUi their future home a lot hefore they approached the architttrure firm my wife and lawn. They came 1000t first meeting armed with drawings, Web's quarter-scale modd oftllcir ideal design, and a strong desIre to have a house that wa$ as energy efficient as possible. When wt: suggested taccfull)' thai we were more in~re$ted in designing h0USC5 from scratch, Helen Slated, ~Of course you are, and that's why we art: ht:re." fllt ht: entl, we de.\lgned a com plclcly different house of compound curve$ that nestles into a curved hillside. Best of all, the hou5oe has a highly insulared shell (R-38 walls, R-62 roof, and an ICF fouooalion) and derives iLS prnnary heal from a high-cfficiency woad-fi red furnact:.

SPECS Bedrooms: 3

Bathrooms: 2'h

An ins ulated foundat ion saves money and energy

Sin: 2800 sq. h.

A curved foundation isalways a challcngc,and this one W-..lS lludifTerent. Toaugment the thermal advantage of digging the uphill side of the foundation Into the hilhide. we used insulating (onerete forms (lCFs) for the emire fou ndation. Compared with the cost of a straight wall, the curved foundation

CCKt NJA

Com pleted: 2003 loaitlon: Hartwick, N.Y.

Architect:

Attonview PLAN FLOWS FROM THE LANDSCAPE T!-lis site is on one ofthe area's highest hills (lnd is m(lrked by its curving terrain. For the house to work with the site, it also had to be curved. The foundation is cut into the hillside, and t!-le living spaces !-lave the best views from the uppe r level. Photo taken at A on floor plan.

living area

Oinln9 area

Architects PC BuIlder: G&S

Construction, LLC

wall with the ICF system (l<lbor and materials combined) was about 10% higher. (The foundation contractor's bill for usmg wooden forms for the curved walls would have been ahout 25% higher.) We confirmed with the rCF m<lnufacturer that the curve would not compromise the system's inte,grit),. Much of the extra time the foundation req UIred was due to layout and verification of the UO-ft. radius. Because of the tn:es, we could not stake out a 130-ft.-long cable to scribe the rad1US. Our office prov1d ed computer-generated drawings, a series of X and Y cOClrdinates, to communicate the layout to the foundation contractor. Once the footings were in place, the ICF system stacked easily on top.

Windows have pros a nd cons Before the footings were laid out, I spent tim(' at the site tracking the sun's position through the day. I wanted to maximize the hou~e's solar g:ain and to minimize rdiance on mechanical h('ating during the winter. I designed the bngest expanse of wmdows on the south-facing end of the house (photos facing page). Made by Pdla (www .pdla.com), th(' units have low-e coated, argon-filled panels that roouce heat loss in winter. (We considered triple-glazing but vetoed it because of the added cost.) Large windows in the north-facm):; master bedroom were a concession fllr the view <lnd for more narurallight, rathcr than thermal pc-rformance. Of course, there's always a trade-off with windows. They can attract beneficial solar gain and view$ at important times of the year or of the da)", but they also lose valuable heat at night. To reduce heat loss, the Staymans installed insulating shades (Comfonex; www.comfortex .com) with an H.-value of 4.6. www.finehomebuilding.com

The east- and west-facing wHldows are modest, but the house is suffused with light all day long. The windows along the curved east wall bring in the light at sunrise. As the sun rises, the south window~ admit light deep into the living room. On the western side of the hm.1~e, the summer sunlight is filtered through the trees; in the wimer, the kitchen reaps the benefits of the afternoon sun.

Insulation, heat, a nd power go hand in ha nd After the sun, th e house's mam heat source is an exterior highefficiency wood-fired furnacc (Pro-Fab Inc.; www.profab.org) linked to a hydronic distribution system. Helen didn't like the idea of the furnace !xing too dose to the house, so Web built a small enclm;ure for it aholll 100 ft. away. Glycol heated in the furnacc jacket is pumped through insulated pipes to the bas.:ment, where it tran$fers its heat to the domestic hot-water taok and a hydromc-heating loop. A liquidpropane (LP) fired ooiler serves as a backup when the wood-fired boiler is not supplying enough heat. The LP boiler is fed from an in-ground lOOO-gal. tank that also supplies a 20kw generator. If the power goes out, the Staymans em get by with the wood hoiler and generator for a long time. Web's new hobby is chopping wooJ, and the household us.es about nine cords of it annually. Web also reports that during a six-week absence last wimer, the backup boil er used only 60 gal. ofJiquld propane, a testament to the house's insulation. To makl': the house as tight as possible, we insulated With Corbond (www.corbond.com) closed-cell polyurethane 5pray foam, wh1ch Yielded R-38 III the walls and R-65 in the roof. The higher R-values were made possible by increasing the depth of the stud and rafter bays. Tht:

Working by Steven Smith On the first day we worked on this house, two of us went to the site with the plans. Luckily, we had worked with Kurt before on his own house ("Arch Top in the Valley," FHB #133 and online at FineHomebuilding.coml. We needed

seven and a half hours just to get our heads around the process of building a house that curved in two directions. When we were ready to begin, we transferred the layout that Kurt had plotted onto the site in the rough, excavated for the footings, then r&-established the layout. After the footings were poured, the foundation was formed with 4-ft.-long ICF blocks. The curve wasn't fair, but it was dose enough. Once the foundation and deck were bJ,.1ilt, we established a centerpoint baek in the woods and used a transit to layout the curved exterior-wall plates. Kurt had used a CAD program called Vectorworks (www.nemetschek.netlto design the house. The software was able to plot the length and le<:ation of each stud, which made that aspect easier. The wall layout was critical, and two of us spent a week just determining the location of each of the 2x10 wall studs. We snapped lines from the centerpoint to the deck for each stud. At the outside wall with the largest radius, the framing is roughly 16 in. on center; on the opposite smaller-radius wall, the framing is closer to 12 in. to 13 in. on center_ The trick was to maintain the fair curve of the wall and to give enough support to the roof. We used articulating metal track (Flex-C Plate; _.flexe .com) to set the top and bottom radii. We cut each stud to length, plumbed it, and braced it in two directions; we added the top-track plate in sections. When a section was complete, we braced it periodically like a regular wall. We cut the openings after the walls were up. Because the openings on the curved walls were relatively small, we could use straight headers that we padded out at the center. We blocked all the rafters in place and strapped them with metal connectors so that they would remain plumb until sheathed.

-Steven Smith owns G&S COllstruCtiOo'1, LtC, in Cooperstown, N. Y. AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2009

walt~ wert: fr.tmd with 2xiOs, and rhe roof was f ramed with 12-in. l -joists. After they had lived in thclr n ew home fo r a few mon ths. the:: Sldymans r.hought It m iglu be 100 tig h t. r...loisture was condensmg o n t he w indows, always a baJ loig n. A heat-recovery ve ntilator

solved the problem . provldm~ the fresh air the ho use rcy uirw w ithout losing any heat. (ror

more o n these appliances. sec "How It Works" on p. 16.)

The interior benefits from a cherry tree Once you're inside, the shape of the house reveals itself: Frum the den to the living room, the n~ i linK height incrcasc~ jl;radually, rising fwm 10 ft. to 16 ft .â&#x20AC;˘ a progres.~iOfl accomp.lnied by the sweep of the exterior wall. T he sc reened porch and the ki tc hen a rc ~itjolled on the: other side of the lfllerior wdll j (he kitchen wa!> pulled from the: flow or the rc!>t of the housc to Isola te ils higher lcvels of actIvIty. Snug and fun ction al, th e kitchen is whcrc the Staymans havc most of the-ir meals. " 'ext to the kitehcn, thc big Krccnoo porch opens out to the wood~ in back. It's the best place ill th~ house fur warm-weather m eJIs and grilling. In the e<lfly stages of dearing the site for the house, Web Stayman found an cnormous cherry tree t hat had been knock ed ()vt~r. BuilJer Steven Smi th had the tree's wood sawn and kilndned, and he: used it fo r all of thc cabi neuy. thc uim, and the built-ins in me house. The color a nd g r:l in of . h is (Jnt" free umfy

the ho u5c's interior ; the cherry gluw is everywhere. 0 Kurt

With handy access to the kitchen. the porch gets plenty of tree-filtered sun during the day. The high ceiling keeps the room cool when the breeze doesn't. Photo above taken at C on floor plan; inset photo taken at D. 58

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Ofer and his WIfe.

Teresa Drerup, are partners

in Altonvlew Arch Itects PC in Cooperstown. NY Photos by Charles Bickford, c",cept where noted .

Retrofitting undershingle intake and ridge vents helped to cool and dry this 120-yearold attic BY MIKE GUERTIN

've been working on this old house for a few year$ now. Among other projects, r retrofitted the house with central <lirconditioning, which has duct runs in the attic, and

updated the bathroom, swapping the onginal claw-foot tub for a walkin shower. But I'm not the only remodeling contractor who has workeJ on this house since it was built in the 1880s. The roof has likely been replaced a few times, most recently with asphalt shingles and roofing underlaymcnt. And at some point in the 1970s, the attic was insulated with l()(Jse fill. As soon as r started working on the house, I knew that it might have attic-ventilation Issues. After ali, when the house was built, it wasn't insulated and couldn't have been as tight ,is it i~ today. Rather than strain their budget, howe ve r, the

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AUGUST/SEPTEMBER ZO()9

ROOFTOP INTAKES SOLVE THE PROBLEMS AND DRAW COOL AIR Undersningls intake ve nts can b e installed anywhe re within th e first few feet of the eave. Here, the intake vents w ere installed 2V2 ft . from the eave , about 6 in. a bove a thick layer of loose-fill insulation in the attic. Posit ion the Intake vent. Slip the top edge o r the vent under the roofing underlayment. Fasten the vent with najls provided by the manufacturer, or use 2路in. to 2'Iz.-in. roofing nails.

Cut a 1-in.-wide strip of sh ea thing. Remove two courses of shingles and tile nails alon9 the cuffine. Use an old carbide sawblade and set the depth of ClIt to the thickness of the sheathing. Alternatively, you can drm a series of 1'/2-in.-dia. holes in each rafter bay.

Reshingle. Apply a starter strip cut from new shingles b efore

reirl$tafling the old shingles (photo above).

- - - SOURCES - - - ------, The following manufacturers sell undershingle intake vents that cost

appro:Kimately $3 to $3.50 per lin. ft. with net free-vent afea (NVFA) ratings of 9 sq. in. to 10 sq. in. per lin. ft.

COR - A -V ENT

DC I PRODUCTS

AIR VEN T

!N路Vent _ .corave nt.com

Smart Vent (installed above) www.dd producU_com

The Edge Vent www.a irve nt.eom

h()m~owntrs agr~td to kttp a close: tyt on tht attic. After a couple of ytars, it became clear that the two small gable-cnd vents weren't providing tnough a!rflow to keep the attic cool and dry. In the summer, the temperature skyrocketed during the day and didn't cool down in tht tvening. In the wimer, moisture condens.cd on coldmrfaccs. One approach tu fixing these problems is to !nsulate the underside of the roof with spray foam, winch makes the atric semlConditioned space and brings it into the huilding e nvelope. Rut there arc se ve ral challt'nges to this approach, mcluding the high cost of installing spray foam. I decidtd to use: a more c05t-effe<:tive method and installed a balanced attic-vent system, which u~s intah vents (typically instal led in the soffits) and exhaust vents (typically mstalled at the ridge). The system creates steady airflow that hdp~ to hep the attic cooler; carries away excess moisture vapor, reducing the chance for condcnsatiDn ami mold growth; and reduces the likelihood of ice damming. Shingle-over ridge vents were a no-hrainer for the exhaust vents, but choosing the style of intake vents was a bit trickier. The eaves on

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this house project on ly 8 in. from the sidewall, and the soffit boards arc applied to the unde rs ide of the sloping rafter tails, which meant there was not enough room to install intake vents in the soffit. Venting drip edge would have been my next choice. But the caves arc fill ed with lome-fill insulation. In fact, the insulation hlocks the first 2 ft. of the rafter bays. In the end, 1 opted to use shingle-over intake vents. These specialty vents look like a one-sided ridge vent and can be lnst;;llkd anywhere withIn the first few fe et of the eave. I installed them aboul2Vl fl. up from the eave edge, just above the insulation level. Thi~ roof i~ roughly ~ti ft. long. It took one person onc day to rerrofit the intake and exhaust vo::-nts. The attic is now noticeably cooler in the summer, and it stays dry in the winter. D Editorial adviser Mike Guertin is a bui lder and remodeling contractor in East Greenwich, R.I . His Web site is www.mikeguertin

.com. Photos by the author, except where noted.

RIDGE VENTS EX HAUST WARM AIR TO COMPLETE TH E SYSTEM The re are a number of similar ridge vents available; this is the Shingle Vent II from Air Vent. Be fore installing a ny rooftop vents, check with your building inspector. High wind a nd seismic zones could present structural concerns.

~ Strip th" flt/ngl•• end urtderleyment. 'f the roof ;1n', too old, you might be able to reu~ the cap shingles. If not, be ,sure to have new cap ,hingle, on hand. With a utility knife, eJlPOse abOllt 2 in. of the sheathing on both sides of the ridge.

R.move • drip of ,he athing. Cut the sheathing bilek 2 in. on conventionally framed roofs and on tl1.lSS roofs with ridge blocking. On truss roofs without ridge blocking, cut a J·in. strip. Nailor

screw down the top edge of the remaining shelf thing.

Balanced venting for any roof Attic venting relies on physics. Because warm air is more

buoyant than cool air, it rises and escapes through the ridge vents, in turn drawing cool air into the attic through intake vents near the eave . The tridc. is to make sure you provide enough ventilation for the size of the attic in question . The International Residential Code and most roofing manufacturers call for balanced venting: a minimum ventopening area of , sq. ft. for every 300 sq. ft.. of attic space. This ratio assumes that the venting is divided evenly between intake and exhaust. If balanced intake and eKhaust aren't

possible, then the vent-opening ratio increases to 1 sq. ft. of vent for every 150 sq. ft. of attic floor area . Intake and ellhaust vents are rated in square inches of net free-vent area (NFVA). Determining the necessary length or number of roof vents you need means converting square feet to square inches . Below is an eKample of how to determine the necessary venting for a 1200-sq.-ft . attic. The necessary length of the venb could be less than the length of the building. Rather than stopping the vent, consider running it the length of the roof for a better appearance, stopping so that the last cap shingle lies flat before reaching the rake edge, the sidewall, or a chimney.

Eumple: venting for _ '200'5q .•ft. _ttic

liig-,

lii4i" 1200 sq. ft. ft. (for balanced vents)

+ 300 sq.

- 4 sq. ft. o~ NFVA

4 sq. ft. of N FVA 144 (in. per sq. ft.)

- 576 sq. in. of NFVA

liiH.' 576 sq. in. of NFVA + 2

:=----:----:-:-

- 288 sq. in. of intake (and 288 sq. in. of exhaust)

288 sq. in. 9 (NFVA-per·foot rating of intake vent )

- 32 lin. ft. of intake + 2 -:-:-;-----;-:----:-----;-:-----;----:

- 16 ft. of intake per side of roof (Repeat step 4 for exhaurt vents.)

www.linehnrnehu.ln;ng.com

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2009

BY JAM IE LYONS

aysto mprove the Air You Breathe

Discovering the causes of poor indoor-air quality is the first step in creating a healthful home

rom the spotless houses of the Cleavers and the Bradys to the showcases featured in

oontemlXlrJ.ry advertising. we've hun taught that a good house is a dean house. So we sweep, spray, and scrub with an everincreasing arsenal of tools and cleansers. But what about the part of a house that we don't sec yet breathe into our lungs thousands of timCli every day? Indoor air is a fundamental part of how our houses affect us, but it's often overlooked and misunderstood. Americans spend up to 90% of their time indoors. According to

the Environmental Protection

Agency (EPA), indoor air can actually be more polluted than outdoor (liT. The consequence of spend ing so much time indoors and breathing JXlll utcd air can be seen in the incn:;lse of asthma and chronic respiratory disuse among Americans. What makes indoor-air quality (lAQ) most difficult to understand is that it can't he easily or accurately tested. There's a vast world of contaminants to test for, a nd for most of them, there arcn't clear exposure l imit~ to compare 3.g'dinst. Plus, testing is just a snapshot of a home's eon-

ditions. Because many factors can affect IAQ, testing is not a realistic option in most ca~es. Instead, looking at the sources of pol lu tants and the way they enter the living space is the best way to determine if your hou5e is .IS healthful as it can be.

Both tight houses and leaky houses have issues We dido't hear much abo ut l AQ 30 years ago. Bu il ding science was still in its infancy, and our houses were different. In the name of energy efficiency, modern houses are wrapped, caulked, and spray-

foamed until air leakage through the huilding shell is [('(load to a mere whisper of outside air. This has eliminated t he natural air infiltration that once served as an JAQ Band- Aid by diluting pollutunts und, occu~ionany, helping [0 dry out moisture. Before you call a tight house an unhealthful house, though, remember that the air infiltrating a leak y house can cau5t: just as many problems as it fixes. For example, hot, humid outside air that finds its way inside sim ply adds moisture to your h ouse. I ncoming outside air can

Relative humidity levels greater than 70% spur mold growth, and a 50% level allows dust mites to thrive. 62

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PIooo, ,.,~~ ,....,,010 ..

""".<""""l' col A"""",... A ~ml'" .0.11,,1')'. A>th"", ~ I"""u""""u: moM. 0... Soh!, PI>ot<>r"inll"l'" s,;"" I'I,,/l,p'

introduCl: pollut:J n t~ ~lIch as car nhamt. Although tight house~ can prevent pollutants from e~aping, they also decrease the amount of contaminan ts that are enlulng the lIVing space and allow mdoor condi llons to he hcncr managed.

Three threats revealed W hile a n umber of poll utants can (Teate roor IAQ, there an: th ree common sourceS: poor con~truction, faulty or improp' erly designed me<:hamcal ~y~. terns, and hurnan aedvity. Poo rl y de~igne d and poorly ex(':cuted const ruction details ca n all ow moisture to enlc::r a house. Bulk-water leakage leads to IAQ prublems such as mold growth. H Igh levels of water vapor, which is m~5ured as rdat l"C humidity (RH ), can result from watcr leakage or a haS[ of other problems. Hig:h RH can ha"c just as sen ous an impact on IAQ as bulk -water leakage. RJ J lC"vds grc:lIerthan 70% spur mold growth. and a 50% RH leve:! allows dust mites to thrive. (Dust mItes foste r auhma.) A vari ety of factors influence indoormoistu re levels. For eX<lmple, inco rrectly flashed wind ows, unsealed rim joists, and cracked foundations all can contribute to exces~ moisture in a houst. Mon itor i ng ytlUr h ouse's RH is easily accomp li shed with <l battery-powered d1glt:!1 hygromt:ter, w hich can cost as little as $JO, and could tip yO lL off to much larger moistu re problems. While differt'nt people will he comforlable at diffe. renT indoor RH 1cvd~. certain limits can be established to help maintain healthful lAQ. To hdp control d us t m Ites and mold growth. keep indoor KI-I at a

level below 50%. WhC""n you ' re. analyzing mechanical systems, the goal is relati vely simple:, They shou ld opera te as they wcre designed. When these systems fail. prob· www.fin",homcbuiIJing.1Xl1n

HUMAN ACTIVITIES Cooking generates strong odors, smo ke, grease, and humid ity. The,e contamina nts should be e)( hluuad directly o utd oon (not raeirculat ed ) wit h a range hood. For beSl pe rformance, mat ch th lil hoo d's fl o w ra te with 'he range's he ating capacit y (abo ut 1 dm per 100 Btu). The fan's noise rat ing should be 1.5 sones or le ss at low spe.cl .

Carpets harbor dust mitel. an d new carpeting can emit VOCs into I home. Dust mites can b e co ntroll e d by maintaining RH below 50%. When installing new carpetirlg, select product! with low VOC emissions, and ventilate the IIrea for 48 to 72 hovrs

Cabinets and pressed·wood products ~re ohen made with adhesives coot')iOi09 fo rma ldehyde. wh u;:h is emitted ioto the home. Whole-houH ... eotilation can reme dy existing sourcas of formaldehyde, but it', best to select milterials free of th. compound or that mwt standards for low emissions.

Many hou.. hold· claaning products emit harmful voe! when they're vsed lind stored. When chOOSing cleaning products, Hlect items thlt ar. lined as solvent·free. If using a product made of harmful chemicals, provideample ventilation with your house's mechanical systems and opan windows.

Showers add humidity to Indoor s~ttS. Controlth~

!fIOistUrft

with

e~$tfaMd~

mova air at a rata no

la.. tha n 50 cfm. (F...,. often deliver

leu flow then thait nomi"., rating.)

Increese airflow wrth 5hort, dir.« duct runs. and 1000k for fins with 6-ln. port. tMt cen accommodate lJ..;n. ductwork. These f ... ns should be qu~2 sones Of less.

Garage-s often a~ home to toxic chemicals, car exhaust. and vacs that can mi9r~a into a ho use. Isolate the glWage from the hou'll w~h lelf-closing end _ethantrippad entry doors .net

\,,,.,h"l, air-sealed ducts (if routed through which they shouldn't be) and J,;h;o~;h.:;;, penetr,ltions. It's also wise to (.onsider using exhaust ventilation to the outdoors.

Poor mechanical systems and faulty appliances can increase

M ECHAN ICAl SYSTE MS indoor-pollution levels . The resulting lAO issues range from mold :..:,,-=c.:::..:--,,=--.:..:c.::"--=:-=--=-=---'=--=--=:""::"':=-=-=-'-'=--I

exposure to death by carbon-monoxide poisoning.

Cloth.s dryers generate large

Radon, a nilturally

amounts of

humidity and also draw about 150 dm of air from

the surrounding space when they' re operating. Vilint dryer

e",haust directly to the outdoors with approlled

Leaky return ducts

ducting . If natural-

in crawlspaces or basements can draw

draft combustion appliances are nearby, make sure ttle dryer isn' t causing

backdraft iuues.

conuminar'lts into houn. Seal joints

III

with duct mastic, and

occurring radioactive gas found in soil, need s to be kept from indoor spaces. Radon levels in houses should be measure d with a test kit. If levels are too high, install an active mitigation system, which uses 11 fan and vent piping to e)(haust radon from under the slab to the ederior of the Mouse, usullily tMrough roof vents.

design floor plans to keep ducts out of unc;onditioned space$.

CON STRU CTIO N

When a home is bu ilt or .remodeled without attention t o construct.ion details, then the home as a system can fall. Below are some of the most problematic areas of a house. By addressing them properly, you can manage your home's JAO more easily.

--'--------"---'---~__-I_

Poorly flashed windows, doors, and other through-wall penetrations can allow moisture to enter the living space. Install pan flashing, integrate tMe hous lltwrap with the unit, and seal tMe flanges with flashing t ape. Spray foam between tMe jamb and the rough opening to help keep moist air out of the house.

killS arise. Return-ai r ducts in a forced-air syMem can be particularly troublesome. The ducts are under negative pre.~ure, so they pull air from wherever it\ available. Ideally, they draw air only from the living space, but leaky ducts can draw air from crawlspace~, attics, and basements where dust, pollen, mold spores, moisture, and eVen radon ca n be lurking. Other me<:hanical-system failures can have a more dire affect. A combustion appliance that's not working correctly can emit

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carbon monoxide into a house, and a radon-mitigation system that's not performing can allow the cancer-<:ausing gas to seep into living spaces. t--:ot all contaminants are nature's fault (like radon) or the result of fXlOT construction. The truth is that homeowners introduce many C011tamin:mt.s. TIleie pollutants include the formaldehyde found in cabinets and plywood, and the volatile organic comJXlund~ (VOCs) found in car pen, adhesives, and paints. H omeow ll~rs also introduce

Gap .. in construction allow dU$t, humidit y, ... nd other pollutants to enter. Seal gaps in the e)(terior envelope with caulk or spray foam. Pay particular attention to "ttics and rim joists, which are prone to leakage. A b lower路door ten helps to reveal the areas troat you路ve missed and that need attention.

contam inants like cooking by~ products and more subtle offenders such as the procluus used to clean the house. Product and material substitutio n works in some instanCe5. Look for sourct""S at LEEDf{)c Homo; (www.mgbe .org) and GreenGuard (www ,greenguard .org). However, installing a ventilation system is th.e best way to rid a home of contaminants.

Clean air in, bad air out The sohu inn to e)( i~ting I AQ problems in a house is proper

ventilation. Th.is is true of old houses and new hou~s. There afe two types of ventilation to consider: whole-house \'en tilation and spot ventilation. Spot ventilation-also referrCt"t to as local exhaust vcntilationincludes range hoods and bathroom exhaust fans. Knowing whethe r you need spot ventilation c;!n be: pretty obvious. Lingenng odors, condensat ion, and mildew arc all easy signs to recognize. Whole-home ventilation sys~ terns su pply fresh outdoor air,

Backdraftlng from combustion appliance, can introduce dead ly car bon monoxide , Backdnfting occurs when the negative p ressure Bround a combustion appliance, such as a water heater, p ulls combustion gases back down a flue inst ead of letting the m flow to t he o utd oo",. Backdrafting can be caused by exhaust devices (fa ns. d ryers), fireplaces, leaky re tu rn d ucts, i!lnd the stack effect. Select sealed-co mb ust ion or power-vented combustion equipme nt (wate r heaters, furnaces. boilers) to ensure that combustion g ases are e)[hauste d properly. In any house, e nsure t hat a ll mechanical equipme r'\t is ven t ed prope rly, and Install carb on-monOllide atar ms dose to the ap pliance and s leeping areas.

Unvented or 路v.nt-f,.. ... combustion appliances. such as gas fire places, can transfe r combustion by- prod ucts into t he house and also add to Ind oor humid ity. In new const ruct ion, opt for ..."nted combu1t ion appliances. , vcr. as a wood stove, instead. For prlil-ellisting unve nted units, closely review and fo llow operat ing instructions for tho unit, particvlarly the req uiremenu for make-up air and ru n-limes. In any house with combustio n ap pliances, install a carb on-mono llld, alarm near sleeping areas end close to the combust ion ap pliance.

exhaust stale indoor air, or do both to he l p manage [AQ. Whole-house vcntll:u ion provides a stc.Hly, pred ic table amount of indoor-outdoor air exchange_ NOI all systems perform wel l in every d imate, so it is wise to do some researc h before inst.a ll ing a ven tilation system in you r house. Ex haust -based whole-ho use systems usc one or more bath exhaust faM [0 pull ~ta l e :m out of a house. The fresh air rrom the outdoors makc::s i t~ way into th e: h ome thro ugh crac ks :lnd www.fin ... hom~b1.l i IJl n g.com

Prevent contaminants from circulating t hrough the house by equipping the cent rat blower with a minimum efficiency reporting value (MERYl B fi lter. Be sure fih e rs on ait hand le rs (like HRIIs) art' cleaned regularly. When designing an HIIAC system, account for t he increased static pressure of the filte r. A more powerful central blower might be ne eded t o achieve proper airflow.

Basements with moisture problems increase humid ity levels and promote mold g rowth. Keep a fou nda tion dry by properly grading t he exterior soil, by installing gutters a nd downspouts properly, and by waterproofing founda tion walls correctly. If bulk-water infiltratio n is a n issue. ma ke sure you' ve got a wo rking sump pump. a nd add a dehumidifier if necessa ry t o kee p relative humid ity be low 50%.

0IXnings in [he builJ ing's shdl. A lternati vel y, p aH i ve ve n ts o r dam pers can be built In to p rovide a speci fi c ent r)' point for fresh air. Tht:se systems a rc the Cils i e~t to imtall In an existing hou~. and they don't rel y on cennal Juctwork. If central d uct work I S accessible, supply systems and balanced w holt:-huusc systems are option.~. A supply system d raw.:; outside a ir into the ce n tra l blower and distribute. it through the house. Because the hou~ i~ pressurized, it f()rces stale ai r and

A crack.d slab can allow ra don and mo isture into the house. Cracks and openings in the slab, such as t hose around drai npipes, should be $e aled t o keep moisture and radon at bay.

its cont:tmin:mts out of the home th rough cracks and gaps. T hese systems rely on a mud l bigger blower to In troduce frc~ h air, so they're best used in combination with high-efficiency models. 8 :".lanew systems d raw fresh air into 3 houscand exhauJ>t qale air at the same rate. Balanced systems usually use a ha t-recovery ventilator (sec "How It Worh," p. 16) or an energy-recovery ventilator to improve the: efficiency ofthe system . While ve ntilatio n technoloKY has improved over the years and

ha~ helped to improve the illf q uality in ou r homes, keep in

mind that it doesn't negate the Importance of preventmg lAO problems at their source_ Ventila tion doesn '{ tru m p proper design and construehon. 0 J amie Lyons, P.E., is a member of ASH RAE and is a senior consultant at Newport Partners, LLC, where he focuses o n energy performance, moisture management. technology developmen t, and indoor- ai r q ua lity. AUGUST/SEPT EMBER 1009

BY CHRIS ERMI D ES

busrcd open my first wall sometime in high school. It wa5n't an act of vandalism; I was helpmg my dad to remove the wall between our kitchen and dining room, and not without trepidation. Walls are built for a rearon, I thought, if not to hold up the hou~, then to h;lve a place for outlets and light switches. Resides, I knew there was stuff in walls that I couldn't see. Lucky for me, my dad believed in doing everything slowly and methodically. We didn't tear down the wall. We assessed it fiot to see ifit was iJe.路uing any weight. and then we tried to sniff out what might be:: hidden behind the plaster. When all that work was done, we dismantled the \V<\ll. Since that first expericnce, I've removed a lot more walls. To learn more aoout the process, I interviewed a bunch of remodeling C('Jntractors who do thi5 work daily. This article is a collection of what I've learned, but the truth is that the basic process is much the same a~ what my dad taught me almost two decades ago.

Un build the walls Vlalls arc huilt in an organized way, and that's how they should be taken down, Studs go up fint, and they come down last. Trim goes in last, and it comes off first. That might round trivial, but there are plenty of people who take a different tack. Cutting through a wall with a reciprocating saw and then attempting to remove full sectiuns might seem like tbe most

A step-by-step guide for taking down walls without wrecking the house

The payoff. Removing inte路 rior walls is a remodeling project that pays off in iii more open. well路connected space. Approached methodi路 cally, wall removal can be done with little disturbance to the house around it.

dlicient approach, but it's (bngerous. Attacking an enclosed wall haphazardly with a power tool or sledgehammer IS like peeling away the shingles on a roof with a backhoe bucket. With the basic precautions shown here, you can begin to dismantle a wal1 safely ar any time. However, it's important to know if a wall is bearing weight before messing with the framing. Spotting a load-hearing wall isn't always easy, but there arc some tdltale signs (sidebar p. 68). If YOlI're unsure, hire an engineer. An engineer is also the person to consult when 5izmg a heam to replace a bearing wall. That beam can be mounted within the finished cei ling in line with the joists aoove, where you won't be ahle to ~e it, or hclow the joists, where it can be:: trimmed as an architectural detail (FHB #152, pp. 80-85, and at FineHomebuilding,com). I'm not going to cover how to do that here, though; this story is aoout taking down walls efficiently. After you h;lve dere rmi ned whether the wall is hearing weight, the next stcp is to figure out what's in it. Pl'"etend the wall could shock you

Chances arc good that de{;(rical wires are ruo01ng in and through the wall you want to remove. T.ight switches, fixtures, and outlets are obvious indicators, but don't think that they tell the whole story. Look 10 the basement and attic for cables that enter or exit rhe wall. Turn off the power to the eircuiL\ you discover before even starring to remove the plaster and lath or the drywall. It's possible that old wiring in the wall could be in bad shape. Even if it's not, though, accidentally loo~ning or damaging wires during demolition can cauS(: immediate and latent danger, including shock, electrocution, and fire. Even after you've done your electrical investigative work, be ready for weird stuff. ClifT Popejoy, an electrical contractor in Sacramento, Calif., was called to a houS(: aftC"r the home-

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AUC;UST/SEPTEMIlER 2009

This post

SPOT AND SUPPORT LOAD-BEARING WALLS

supports the str uctural ridge , wh ich is common

in vau lted

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Bearing walls carry roof, ceiling. and floor loads. They often run perpendicular to floor and ceiling

joists, but that isn't the rule. Sometimes walls that run parallel

to floor joisb are also load-bearing. Look in the basement for girder beams, and trace their p<lth to the roof; some homes have more than one. While these drawings illustrate some common signs of bearing walls, they don't represent a definitive list. The smartest, safest approach is to consult an engineer, and assume that the wall you're going to remove is bearing weight until you prove otherwise. Properly $ized beam$ must replace bearing walls.

This fi rst路ffo or wall is be Ming weight from the flo or joists above, as well as the roo f load . Be arin g walls often run inl ine wit h a bea m in the basement. They ca n b e o ffset from their bearing points, howeve r.

Th. wall ben"ath this post i s cM rying the ridge/hip po int load.

A stiff-knee or kneewall is poss ib ly urryi ng s ome roof load. In older hom es, this approach might take the fo rm o f posts, wh ich aren 't necessarily ru nni ng pl u mb t o th e bea rin g po int below.

This wall is urryi n g the ceiling joists lind possibly s ome roof loa d.

Th is wall i, CIIrrying floor joists and an offset load from th e wall above.

Temporary SLlpport. Before cutting into the framing of a load路 bearing wall, build a temporary wall to pick up the load. Use a 2)(8 or 2)( 10 for the top plate to minimize potential damage to the finished ceiling. Cut the studs V. in. long to tClke some weight off the wall, and screw o r nail them in place every 16 in. You It/so can support th e load with a header a nd posts in lieu of studs to make walking through the temporary wall easier. Be sLlre that the load path has adequate support below. And remember, the wall might need support on both sides. FINE HOMEBUILDING

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owner got II shock fro m touching the washing mach ine and the wall at the same time. Two of the walls were plaster on metal lath, and both were energized to 120v because a piece of lath was to uchi ng t h e h ot te rminal of II non-GFI receptacle. O nce you are inside the wall , deali ng with electrical wiring means rerouting or dcad ~nJing circuits. An c\e<:trician i~ the best pcrS()o to do the job. I f you're t..'1ckling it yoursdf, though, keep these things in mind. Thc best way to rerouu cable is to remove it hack to the last undistu rbed box (at a receptacle, switch, or fixture) and to run new cabl.e. This is easy with moocrn (grounding) nonmetallic (NM) cable. (fthe wi ri ng is old arm ored cable, flexible metal conduit (EMT), or k nob-a ndtube, it's time to check with the cooe official to sec what materials m ust be used. If the part of the wiring that YOIl ' re rem oving doesn't feed any thing and you can 't follow the w iring hack to an existi ng box, you nCC"d to d ead-end the wiring in its own electrical box. Code requires that the box be accessible. If you can't put it in a basem ent, a crawlspace, or an attic, you'll h ~ve to put it In a wall or cabi net and cover it with a blank plate. Although low-voltage wiring (doorbell, thermostat, intercom, telephone, cable, etc.) can he ~pl j ced ou tside a box, it's bad practice to seal a splice inside "wall. Follow the wire back to the attic, the crawlspace, or the basement, and splice the cable there. Or use a low-voltage ring and a blank coverplate in [he wall so rh"l t the splices arc accessible.

See pipes? Think flood

insurance If you're lucky, electrica l cable will be the only thing you have to deal with. but don't proceed unde r that assumption. Unlike

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INVESTIGATE WHAT'S IN THE WALL Signs of eAtra

work ahead. Note the number of utilities pilSSing through tile

bottom of the wall, but don't assume they tell the whole story, Turn off the power ;;md W(lter to any fixttJres and plumbing in the wall and in

the walls ilbove and below the wall to be removt!d; wire and pipe might p<JS$ through them as welt.

Use ill sensor. Even if you know that wire and pipe enter the wall from below, it's possible that more is hidden inside. To eliminate as many surprises as possible, use it tester like the MulriScanner from Zircon ($59; www.zircon.com). which finds live wires and metal as well as studs .

PROTECT FLOORS, AND MANAGE DUST Masonite tak.s

beating. " Ihe floors are to remain, take time to protect them from Krews, nails, and other d(!bris. A layer of 'I. -in. Masonite over plastic offers great protection. Sheets of Masonite are reusable (about 32.: per sq. ft.) and easy to come by.

Thick protection in 8 roll. Ram Board (www.ramboard . com; about 16Â˘ per sq. ft. ) offers good protection and comes in rolls. It's durable, easy to instali, and reusable. It won't take a beating like Masonite, but it comes close. w ww./ln ~ hnm .. huilding.com

IneJCpenJive, but thin. Red (or brown) rosin paper is readily available and cheap (about 3, per sq. ft.), but it won't take much of a beating. Save it for

tUed or carpeted floors.

Contain dust. Clear plastic isolates the area without blocking Jight . Furring strips or telescoping poles (www.zipwall.com) hold it tight to the floor and ceiling. Protect your lungs with a respirator, and beware of lead paint. (For more on dust control. see FHB #180, pp. 78-83.)

Remove dust. Mount a fan in the window to pull dust o ut o f the house. Cover floor registers and return-air grilJes. Furnace filters work well for this purpose if the heating system will be running during the Job; otherwise, tape them shut with cardboard.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2009

electrical cable, pipe generally runs in a straight path, so it is fairly easy to sleuth out. Check in the basement for plumbing lines and III rhe attic for vent pipes. There aren't as many indicato~ of hidden pipe as there are of dtXtrieal work. The proximity ofkitch(,l) faucets and bathroom fixtures can offer some clues. If you .~u~pect there is plumhing in the waH, turn off the water at the closest shutoff before beginning any demolition. There are lObi of good reasons to hire a licensed plumber to reroute supply, drain, or vent pipes. Most states allow nonlicensed plumbers to remove on ly fixtures that are attached to a shutoff valve; anything beyond the shutofT valve, as well as dram and vent piping, mmt be removed and rerouted by a licensed plumber. But the best reason could be that licensed plumbers have insuranc e to cover dama ge caused during remodel ing work. While mooern copper and PEX plumbing can be resilient, jostling old galvanized and copper pipe ca n weaken joints elsewhere. And given the fact that 4-in. ca~t-iron pipe weighs about 2 lb. a foot, removing 8 ft. from a Slack can be dangerous. Black iron and fl ex ible gas lines are another concern. These lines should be reroutal only by a lict'nseJ gas c()ntractor. All this investigative work will payoff hy g iving you a good idea of what's lurking behind the finished surfaees. When the trim and wallboard are gone and the studs and plates are down, you might have to reroute some wires or pipes, hut you won't be scrambling to make emergency repairs. 0 Chris Ermides is an associate editor. Photos by the author, except wh e re noted .

FINE HOMEBUILDING

DISMANTLE THE WALL, DON'T DEMOLISH IT

START WITH A KNIFE, NOT A HAMMER Run a sharp utility knife along the edge of each piece of trim to break the painted or caulked seam. Use a taping knife and a hammer to pry trim from the wall one piece at a time so that it can be reused Ii.lter.

I SEVER THE CEllING路TO路WALL JOINT For plaster-and-Iath walls, ru n a reciprocating saw along the joint between the wall and the cailing. Take eare not to cut any deeper than the plaster's depth (usually about % in. ). Use a sharp utility knife where drywalled ceilings and walls meet.

PULL THE PLASTER, THEN THE LATH Using a sledgehammer or a framing hammer. tap the plaster between studs. Start from the bottom, and work up to tha eeiling. This breaks the keys off the plaster, releasing it from the lath. Pulling it off is as simple as scraping it with a utility knife.

"IPS FOR CAREFUL DECONSTRUCTION

PUll DRYWALL IN BIG PIECES, NOT LITTLE CHUNKS Cut the drywall into large sections about 2 ft. wide by 6 ft. long. Starting from the

FREE THE CABLE, DON 'T PULL IT When you have no choice but to work. around wire or pipe, cut a sawkerf just above and just below the wire. Then tap

top. fold down each section. The leverage

the section with a hammer to free the wire

;,nd weight of the drywall will make popping it from the screws or nails easy.

from the stud.

-...\. -

TWIST THE STUD, THEN PULL IT Knocking studs loose with a hammer works, but it often splits the stud, rendering that part u$el~$. You can cut the nails by running a metal blade in a reciprocating saw between the stud and the plate. but jf the wall is bearing weight. you'll reciprocate more than the blade. Stanley's FuBar (www.stanleytools .com; $30) has a deverly designed jaw that makes twisting the stud free easy. www.finchomebuilding.com

SPLIT THE PLATE AROUND PIPES AND WIRE Once the studs are removed, pull the nails from the plate, then cut it on both sides of the pipe or wire. Finally, split the remaining piece with a chisel. This method also works for top plates.

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AUGUST/SF.PTF.MBER 2009

ONE REDWOOD TREE, REINCARNATED After a lightning strike felled a California redwood, the lucky homeowners had it milled and stored on their property. Years later, they used the wood to build three decks and a wheelchair-accessible pathway, along with planters and benches. Green anodized-aluminum balusters complement the simple deck design and are almost transparent against the surrounding foliage. After viewing this deck, one of the winners of our deck contest, Project Gallery member hipaul, wrote, "Absolutely amazing. The deck is beautiful and what a way to honor that magnificent tree ... Way to golO"o;gn: Judy and Jack Armitr"1)ng. Tn.ltk .., C.llf. Conolructkm.nd photogr.phs; J.d< Armstrong

FINE HOMEBUIU)[NG

ART IN THE GARDEN In Olympia, Wash., a freestanding structure smaller than 200 sq. ft. doesn't require II building permit, so once Peter Chramiec's client had the design for her home-office studio complete. construction began immediately. Building materials include HardiePanel siding with custom metal corners and panel dividers. Galvalume metal roofing, and fiberglass w indows and doors. DHign, construction. ilnd photog'ilph: Pet... Clvilmlec, OIymplil, W..h.

YES, IT'S THE SAME HOUSE Inspiration for the porch and bay-window design came from the neighborhood's original porches. Recessed into the deck area, the top porch step provides II subtle separation of the entrance fro m the sitting area. The large bay window brings more space <lnd light to the front sitting room. Deo.ign, con~tn>ction, ilnd pI>otogrilph&: ~n Johnston. AliIn Johnston ContrilCtlng Inc ., On1...to, C.1,.,.dl

www.finehomcbuilding.com

US, TISF PTE'<B I;R 2009

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CO NTINUED

WATERWHEEL

FROM OUTDATED TO OUTSTANDING A dated, off-center fireplace and awkward layout left t his family room lacking

comfort and character. But thanks to a collaboration among designer. stonemason, and homeowner, it was goodbye

cold and cluttered, hello cozy and inviting (just ask the dog ), Stone left over from another project and a salvaged mantel helped to keep down costs and added some green to the sunny yellow room.

When a local architect approached him to create a 13·ft.-dia. decorative water· wheel, craftsman Bob Bulick didn't hesitate for a moment. Once he began, though, he had a doubt or two. After all, where do you go to get advice on how to build a waterwheel? The wheel is made of two rings joined by uretha ne glue and stainless·steel screws. The rings, which are made of redwood, are splined together. Bulick used a swing arm to shape the wheal inside and out V. in. CIt a time, which he admits made him feel like "an old gristmill mule wal king each pass around. 8

t)e'ign, JoaNV Pa lm;""'o, Burlington. \,It. Stonewort.: N_ Ctlrr, Chur,n Hill t...ndK;jOpe, Vt. &.Ior. photo: Tawny_ P.~

Aft.r photo: SiI"n T•• r.

F INE HOMEBUI LDING

D...ign and construc1ion, Bob Swick, Build! ClKtom Woodworb, Tulsa, Okll. Photo, Court..)' of AJ.~ ~ ......,",I, AlA

KNOTTY PINE-NOT This 19605 lowerlevel den was overwhelmed by pine

•

paneling; a low,

cracked. tedured ceiling; poor lighting; and a brick-faced fireplace. To updClte the room, inexpensive MOF was split into block-size pieces painted to mimic slate wainscot. To achieve the proper scale for the 30-ft.-long wal!, the drywall was panelized with reveals and finished with burnished Venetian plaster. Smoked-glass tiles trans· form the fireplace into a focal point. A thin layer of drywall covers the ceiling, and new lighting illumi·

nates the perimeter. 0"18n. con,tructicln. "rid b.+'...... photograph: " " _ H•• rn, Hom.Mat.Onl 11K.., Manakin·Sabot. Va. Af"r photo: Fotogu,fikol 1mag,1')

FOR THE LOVE OF THE GAME The loft in Ken Perry's

house had room for a full-size pool table,

but the only way to access it was a narrow meta l spiral stair· way. Although Perry had never built stairs before, the self-described ~ fearless man · knew he neede d to take action, so wit h the bo ok Build ing Stairs (The Taunton Press, 2007) in one hand and a hammer in the other, ne set to work. Along with better access to the pool table , he added an entryway closet and, according to his real· estate agent, increased the resale value of nis home. Delign, conslnlction, ."d photographs: Ken F'flT)', Austin, TeltU

view or post projects, click on the Gallery tab on our homll pig. at Fine Homebullding .com

AUGUST/SE PTE ).{B E R 200Q

Floor joist or 2)( blo<:king %-in. threaded rod

" Ded joist

Patching holes in siding

I'm painting my , OO-year-old house. The clapboards are in pretty good shape, but I have some holes and gouges to fill. What type of filler should I use? _JEFF PERlEE

Yia email

Tim Leahy, afinish fore-

man for Kirby P~rkins Cowtruction in N~wpo,.t, R.I., r~li~s: My company d~s a lot of restoration work, SO I uta! with damaged clapboards all the time. &cause our jobs are often time ~nsitiv e , I like products that dry fast enough for me to fill, ~nd, prime, and paint all in tlk s..1me day. For hole~ up to \1 in. di;!, or for gouges narrower than Y.z in., r like Elmer's interiorl exterior Carpenter's Wood Filler (www.dmers .com), It sands

well and is creamy, so it works wdl off the knife. I sand the damaged area to bare wood and

spot-prime rhe holes to seal the old wood; th<':o 1 forc!': in thl": putty. Deep holes and gouges might fe4uire a second application. Although the product claims to be shrink-free, the filler occasionally shrinks slightly as it dnes. I s.and and reprime the area once the filler dries. For hole:~ and gouges larger than Y1 in., I reach for an epoxy filler or Rondo (www.3m.com). which is a polyester compound. Bondo doesn't adhere weI! to paim or smooth surfaces. Before I apply it, I sand an area to b.1re wood aoout an inch around the repair. If the hole or gouge IS deep, I also carvl': out small crevicl': s with a ehi.scl or putty knifl': around the perimeter ofthl': repalf. This give:s the: filler more area to cling to. I fill the hole, then sand the repair WiTh a random-orbit sande:f to smooth the surface to level.

The type of fil/er fo llows the sin of th e p a tch. For holes up to and gouges narrower than 'h in., use Elmer's interior/exte路 rior Carpenter's Wood Filler. Any holes and gouges larger than I!J in. should be filled with an epoxy filler or Banda.

FINE HOMEBUILDING

A d a vin that ra lists latar~1 'oa ds. Simpson's DIT2Z Deck Tension Tie (about 56 each) fulfi/ls a new code requirement. Two Tension Tie brackets tied together with 'kin.-dia. threaded rod connect the deck frame to the house's floor framing. The brackets attach to joists with the provided sCrews.

A new code requirement for decks I heard recently that the Intemational Residential Code (IRq has a requirement about lateralloack for decks. I've always used 'h-ln. lags or through bolts to attach ledgers to rim joists. and I assumed this fulfilled the load requirement5. Is the lateral-load requirement new? Will I have to do mora than lag or bolt the ledger to the rim joist?

-JASON WAL SH

";aemail

ksociau editor Chris

Enmdrs rrpiifs: No and yes. The: sl':ction from rhe International Residential Code to which you're referring (RS02.Z.2) ,ays that decb have to be designed for both vertical and lateral loads. That part ha5 bee:n on the: books for years and is meant to keep the deck from pulling away from thc house. But the 20091RC doe5 have a new provision that gets specific

aoout what's requirl':d to support a latt:ralload. The new code se<:tion (R5U2.Z.2.3) states that "holddown tension devices" be installed in at least two locations per deck. Whether you arc attaching a deck that's 3 ft. long Of 30 ft. long, you will be required to use the hold-down tension devices in two locations. Each hold-down deVICe: must '"have an allowable stress capacity of not kss than 1500 Ib.~ The hold-down deVICes lmght be tough to fmd, though, because right now, only Simpson's DTT2Z Deck TenSIon Tie (www.strongtie.eom)meetsthe design路load requirements. To ll':arn morl': alx-mt the IRe's new deck-code changes and to join a discussion about how to Implement them, look for Mikl': Guertin's jXlst titled "2009 Deck COOe Changes-Pay Attention!" in our "Daily Fix" blog at FineHomebuilding.com.

II xx::XtliU " Y

One Mississippi ...

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Two Mississippi ...

Done. Designing with Eastern White Pine is charaerer building. 11 Is a. ~flectiol1 or ...t.o )'011 art. II""" you choo..e to liv-e anO your commitment to tult.."ticity. To 1...." more abolltdesignin<;! with .,.,tem whit, pi .... v;"i! www.MSffi'mI'hirep;"".t)~

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difference? •

HAMMERS

Titanium vs. steel

few years ago, I worked on a framing crew run hy 3 hms who took everything he did to the limir-builJ· iug houses, racing d irt bikes, even buying tools. The day I walked onto the job, he handed me a leather Occidental tool bag that hdJ a 16-02. titanium Stiletto hammer. I strapped on the belt and, to his surprise, replaced the hammer with a 22..()z. Sled Estwing. At the time, I J illn't gel the hype surrounding titamum. After much IXTsuasion, though, I switched. I quickly fell in love with that Stiletto, but never understood why. The hammer felt great, hut how much could titanium really affect the tool? I wasn't sure ifI loved that hammer for the way it

performed or ifI was ju~t a sucker for savvy marketing. It turns out that the hype has value. Rob Yagid, associate editor

FINE HOMEBUILDING

TITANIUM TRANSFERS

STEEL IS A DEAL

ENERGY EFFICIENTLY

AND STILL PACKS A PUNCH

Br.ndon Miller, the product marketing coordinator for Stiletto tools, sold m. on titanium in two ~ntences. A titanium hammer transfers 91% of your energy from swinging the hammer to the nail, while a steel hammer transfers only 70% of your energy to the nail. That means titanium drives the nail more efficiently and that there i. less recoil energy to trlv.1 back into your arm (3% vs. roughly 30% with steel). This clarifies the claims that titanium is roughly 45% lighter than steel but hits just 85 hard, and that titilnium can help to 58ve your elbow from the shock of hammering. The chief complaint with these hammen is their ex~nH. In its raw form, titanium is roughly five times more expensive thiln steill. The higher CO$t to produce the tool contributes to a price tag of S80 to 5250, depending on the hammer.

Although II titllnlum hammer might be more efficient at driving nail$, some users prefer Iteel hammers for their knockdown power. BeCiluse steel is much heavier than titanium, it's more useful when it comes to pounding a beam into place, moving iI wall into its proper position, or doing demolition work. A rteel hammer', most alluring quality, though, is that it's con· 5iderably less expensive than a titanium hammer. At around $20 to $30, it's the most ecollOmi· cal choice for those who don 't Iwing a hammer for a living and Ire not as susceptible to the physical damage that can occur from yean of job-site abuse.

TITANIUM HAMMERS Oall"'ge Tools www.dallugetools.com

Stiletto Tool$ YMW.~i lettotools.com Vaughan www.vaughar1mfg.com

STeEL HAMMeRS

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•

EVER WONDER WHY FRYING PANS ARE MADE OF ALUMINUM , NOT CONCRETE?

Frost movinl! your deCl!, addition or coUalle? Be protected",

Concrete pier forms easily installed in any soil

& weather condition.

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ALUMINUM IS HUNDREDS OF TIMES MORE CONDUCTIVE THAN CONCRETE. Warmboard radi~"t ~lIbfkx,r has a thick aluminum surb~. The aluminum allows for faster radiant with a low thermal ma" and a much faster re.poru;o, time than a concrete-slab system.

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Beautiful and Practical Yor!(s double he'i~ design - with two h~ndrails and no center post - makes for J mOIl'; eleg.m!. comfortable and practial spiral stair. Prdabricated II'ld almost fully assembled to save time imd expense at the jobsite. a York sta ir gives )Iou the look of iI custom stair at ,In affordable price.

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AL;GUST/SEPTl::MUER 200 9

ClfrFifE!l"t!ll1 c,e? l

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CON 11 N U E 0

I I

GLUE

PVA, polyurethane, or CA? Shelves at hardware stores are flush with gluc~, but for cveryda.y job-site use, it's best to consider just a few categories: polyvinyl acetate (P VA), polyurethane, and cyanoacrylate (C A). All three types of glue should have a place in your toolbox, but un&:~n ta nding the properties and strengths of each type will help you to make the best choice for the job at MnJ. Matthew Teague, contributing writer

PYA GLUE'S PERFORMANCE VARIES

Polyvinyl.acetate glUM encompass a range of produm

fTom Elmer's white glut! to TItebond 111,

a yellow glue duigMd to be uHd in • .oct:r.m. outdoor conditions. pYA glues

d.1os-

sified into thr" categories based on their water resistance. Type-III (not water ~sist.nt) PYA glue consi$ts of a5 much n 50% water and cures a$ the water QVOIIponltes. Glued surf<lces must be cJ<lmped togetn.r until tn.y reach 15% to 20% of th.ir bo.-.d strength, generally in .bout an hour. It UIO tilke IS Icmg <IS 24 hours, however, to reilCh fullstrtmgth. Typ4I.1 (w<lterproof) and type-ll (water resistant) PYA gllMs, such as Trtebond II and III, contain w.ter, but .Iso strands of poly. mers that b.come Int."gled ~lnd chemically bonded to perform better in eKt9rior co.-.ditions. Th.se adhesives demand the same damp time <IS type·m PVA glue, but geneI'· ally nave. longer open time and bond at colder temperatures. Water resista"c. ..,Jde, there's littte differ· ence i" the stnmgth of the joint made with any type of PYA glue. They <Ill can resist forces around 3500 psi to 4000 psi. PVA glue Ciln be cleaned up with wlter. OnC1t it's dry, you can scrape or sand away e;ltc", glo..

POLYURETHANE GLUE IS TRULY MULTIPURPOSE

CYANOACRYLATE

Polyuretnane glues like Gorilla Glue end PL Turbo outperform PVA glues in several <lpplicaticms, such as bonding kim, Itone, ccma-.te, ~ .~ / .nd ceramic5. anI benefit of polyuretkana glues is that because they are not water·based, they are not drawn Into wood pores as drastically as PVA glue. For this reascm, wood joints glued up with polyurethanl accept stains and dIal' finishes better than with other typ" of gllHt. Poly· urethane glues also enabll you to glue up pi9<., ...... n after a finish nas been .pplied. B.ause polyurethane glues cun! by I chemial relction triggered by moisture, tk<ty work well on wood with high moisture contant or on oily woods, where PY~ have a hlrd time bondIng. Polyureth".,e glues gener"Uy take 5lx to eight hours to reilct. fuU strength Irld require the workpiec. to be damped for a proper bond. The d.mps usually can be removed after lbout four hou .... The cured strength of polyurethane glue Is slightly less than that of PYA-generally around 3000 psi-but still plenty strong for most any home·building application. Prior to dryJ.,g, polyurethAne glue can be removed using solvents such as minerAI spiro its or acetone. Once the glue has cured, you c.n KTlp. or Hnd away squeeze-out.

Not all CA glues are created equal. Some Ire one-part systems (Krazy Glue), arid oth· ers require an activl· tor to set up property (2P·'0). You lliso can buy CA gluas in • wid. range of viscositlas,. from thin versions that bond in as little !IS 10 seconds and cun! at 30 seconds to thicker gels that have about a 10-minute open time and require clamping. Marketed as an all-purpose glue and nt<. ognized most often as Super Glue, CA glue bonds to most any surface. It's more elq)ensive than PVA or polyurethane glue, which means th<lt it is seldom a smart choice for bonding large SUrflCI i1reas. Many trim carpenters Iwear by CA glues for their strength, speed, and ease of use. If you're working on I crown miter joint, for inst.nce, you can apply the glue to one sida, the activator to the other, then simply hold the joint in place for a few seconds until tha glue bonds. One downside of CA glues is that they are brittle, so they are more likely to fail under impact. But the strength of CA glue is not far behind PVA glues, with some capable of withst,mding up to 4000 psi. Cleanup of CA glue requires a solvent, such as acetone, prior to curing. After curing, you can scrape or sand away squeeze-out.

GLUE CREATES

AN INSTANT BONO

(-: .

4, ' " )

B.,t uses: Trimwork, furniture repair

Best us.es: Type I and 11 - exterior trim, outdoor furniture; type III - Cilbinetry, interior woodwork and trim

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Soldering copper cap flashing "--

BEND THE PROFILE, THEN THE END FLAPS

>CD "-w

Send a simple Z. Start with a 4路in. piece of copper 3 in. longer than the window's head casing. Using a sheet-metal brake (F HB # 190, and online at Fine Homebuilding .com), bend the co;r per into a Z that fits over the trim.

ap flashing, which is installed atop the head casing, is a

window's first line: of dcfense against water infiltration. When bending cap fla.~hing, r like: to U~ 20-oz. copper for b-xh appearance and durabiliry. Unlike aluminum, the folded copper ends can be soldered, so I don't have to rely on caulk to seal the joint. I use 20-07., copper beaiuse it is thin enough to work ea~ily yet provides prot~tion far beyond my lifetime.

I use a pocmblc s~t ... mctal brake, which can ~ rented at moot home stores, to bend the flashing's profile. For the soldering work shown here, I ll."C a propane :o;oldering iron (as opposed to a torch) ~ause an iron offers me more control over the heat, which I apply to the copper fold. You also can buy electric soldering irons at mOST hardware stores. Prior to soldering the ends, I apply flux to the: flashing. Flux enables the solder to adhere to the copper. I also mix 1 part Ruby flux ($4.95 for a pint) and 3 parts water in my dipping jar, which I use to keep the iron clean. John Mahan is a second-generation slate roofer in Spn'ngfield, Mass. Photos by John Ross, eXc8pt where noted. 82

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Cut a /on9 tha seams. On both ends of the flashing, cut approximately 111.1 in. in along both folds. This way, the distance between cuts equals the length of the head casing. Use tin snips, and take care not to crease the copper.

S e nd in th e (laps . To give t he end a seamless

loole, bend down the top

flap (irst, then the front flap back. Pliers work for these small bends.

Shape th e end. With a smooth-faced hammer, gently tap the end to the shape you want. For this cap, the front corner was left with a slight roundness to ease the loolc. Finally, trim the excess metal from the folds.

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"--

APPLY FLUX, HEAT, AND SOLDER, IN THAT ORDER

>en

"-w

Ins/d._ Set the 6nd of the cap on a nonflam-

mable surface. Apply tha flux, also called a tinning agent, directly to the copper. Press a hot

iron into the comer to heat the copper and ,i'lli' flux. Touch the solder to the iron. The solder will melt and run down the iron into the corner. When soider just starts to bleed out the other side, you're done. Whltfl working with uncoated copper, use a solder stick that ;s 50% solder and

Snips: Don't cut costs Inexpensive metal snips are a curse on any prOject. You'll end up with sloppy cuts, creases where the metal should be flat, and probably an extra nick or two on your finge~ as you struggle through a project. The high-quality snips shown here (www.cooperhand tools.com) cost only 55 more than a generic brand. For only 514.95, you can afford to avoid frustration. If you're really into pampering yourself by buying more tools, then you can get two pai~, red ones and green ones. Using these snips, you'll soon discover that the colo~ aren't simply for fashion. The green-handled snips cut with the waste to the right, and the red cut with the waste to the left. This is convenient when cutting anything but the simplest profiles. Of cou~e, once you buy two pairs of metal snips, you'll have to buy two holste~ ($14.95; www.bestbelt.com) to carry them around. -John Ross, Web producer

Color. d for convenience. These snips na ...." compound action for

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Solder from the

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CJe,," up with . wire bru sh. Remo ....e any extra solder on the outside with 11 wire brush. If you were too genero us wit h t he solder, you'll pay for it now. Big globs of solder can take a while to brush off.

Visit our maga zine ex t ras page t o see iii video of Joh n Mahan maki ng th i$ cap fl u hing as we ll as a d ecorative window- cap fla shing.

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drawing board LESSONS IN RESIDENTIAL DESIGN

BY ROXANA VARGAS-GREENAN

Garden sheds with style

n my neighborhood. the majonty of housc.~ have a storage shed tucked wmcwhere in the backyard. It'~ often placed in the most inconspicuous location on the lot with little ;Itte ntion given to its SCJIc, it~ design, or thl'! quality of its materials. However, by paying attention [0 the scale of a storage shed and by placing it sensitively in the landscape, you can transform it into a garden shed, a d ecorative focal d ement in the yard.

Placing tInt shed against rh. fence maximizes garden area.

A shed roof minimizes

Purpose and proportions dictate shed size The first thing you need to dete rmine is the size of the shed, a function of both the shed's purpose and the size of the garden. St.1Tt by considering how the shed will Ix: used. Will it be available for an activity such as potting? Will it be a backyard destination with an adjacent sitting ar~a or patio? What item~ will he stored in the shed: outdoor [ool~ and toy~ or overflow items from th~ hou5oC? Make 0\ list of the things you want to ~tore to estimate the space you need. At a minimum, a garden sh~d needs to be 3 ft. deep for storage. Shelves maximize storage, but they should be at least 13 in. deep. Tn improve access, consider double doors to expo5oC more of the interior. If the shed will be used for an activity such as potting, you'l l need a small work area IOside or outsid(" the structure. I like a counter about 3 ft. long and 2 ft. deep. For an inside workspace, you also need room to mov~ around, generally about 3% ft. of depth (enough for a small chair). A shed that is too large will look out of place and will diminish till-: usefulness of the yard. I prefer to limit the footprint of the shed to a proportion of gard~n size. For small gardens (up to 900 sq. ft.), th~ shed can be up to 3% or 4% of the garden. For a garden between 9(X) sq. ft. and 1500 sq. ft., 86

f'I N F HOMFR U IL DINC;

Plantings frame the vjew of the shed in the garden.

MIMIC THE HOUSE, BUT REDUCE THE PROPORTIONS This shed draws inspiration from the house, sharing the primary siding and trim elements. It's appropriate to reduce the size of the shed's details proportionally to m~tch It$ smaller scale. For example, the siding exposure might be reduced, and the rafter tails might be 21'.45 insteilld of the 2x6s on the house. The roof's low pitch helps to keep the height appropriate for the shed's 4-ft. by 6-ft. footprint. On small sheds, avoid steep roofs suth as a gambrel or front gabl â&#x20AC;˘. Although there isn't room for a window, the small glass lites in the door offer .nough transp.rency to prevent ~ fortresslik. feel.

devoting 5% to a shed is OK, but generally, I would nOl: exceed I DO sq. {t. In a garden 3000 sq. ft. or larger, I suggest limiting the shed to ISO sq. it.

Site the shed thoughtfully The garden's style also influences the shed's placement because the structure should be an integral part of the garden design. If the garden has a formal layout, the shed will likely pby a major role as the focal point of several views within dlC garden. In a more informal or picturesqu~ garden, the

shC(l can be placed along a meandering path or he r~v eal ed slowly through layered plantings rather than be seen from all vantage points. As you think aoout placem ent, consid~ r the shadows that the shed will create. Placing the shed on the nonh side limits shadows and maxim17.ts sunl1ght in the garden.

Details create appeal Generally, the shcxl's style draws inspiration from the house. Howev~r, if the house doesn't hav~ a distinctive style or if the

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YOU CAN'T HIDE A BAD DESIGN Don't skip trim 0(' an overhang on the roof.

CON TIN U E D

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r ,' o

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In a small yard or garden. even II small shed immediately attraru the eye .nd becomes II focal point, so don't try to hide it by tucking it into a corner. This shed is probably slightly too large for the spa,e, but the problem is exacerbated by II flimsy-looking roof, monolithic tacades, and poor.quality materials.

WITH REFINED DETAILS, THE SHED BECOMES A FOCAL POINT

Shed terminaTes the I'I.w from each path.

Light through large windows makes the shed more

--...,,,,"U

in~iting.

to engage the eye.

In a larger garden. a shed can be bigger and be designed to be viewed from III sides. Often, a symmetrical garden plan will be centered on the shed with all views terminatirtg at the structu .... In this C.IIse, the garden is mont pictu ...sque than form!!!, and the location of the s hed creates something of a hybrid. The steep roof and firt iai are visible throughout the yard. so it's the central element of the garden. Also. the structure incorpo rate s a high level of detail, reflecting its prominente. But the shed is slightly off center, and the curved paths and plantings conspire to hide portions of the shed so that the view changes and surpriS4s as you approach. SS

fiN E HO ME BU ILDIN G

garden is far from the house, you have a bit ofleeway. In these case~, the plantings can lend themselves to a particular style. For example, softer flowermg plants lend themselvcs to a traditional look, while more structural plants, such as bamboo, can rclate to modern designs. Regardless of style. ~heds arc viewed close up, w use high-quality matenals. I avoid plywoocl siding and synthetics (vinyl and plastics). I pay particular attention to the craftsmanship of the doors, the size of the roof overhang, and the size and placement of thl': windows. The shed's reduced scale makes the door a prominent visual element. Doors ~ hould be a mini mum of6 ft. talL Their style can vary--cunage-door style. tongue-andgroovc planks, or simple pattcrned doors all work well-but the emphasis should be on quality. For an unpainted door, cedar's warm color tones and weather resistance work well. Fir and poplar are common for painted doors. I find that iron hardware works well with unpainted woocl surfaces, while brass hardware is most apprupriate for a more finished design. The roof should have an overhang to lend mass to the roof edge and to help protect the door. WithoUl it, the shed will have an insubstantial and flimsy appearance. Even a 6-in. overhang can provide a distinct impact. Windows help to connect the shed to the house and help to hreak up the facade, cspecially on sheds that are the focal point of the garden or that arc larger than 75 sq. ft. The windows and trilll should be SImilar to those on the hou5e. However, if your budget is small, I suggest passing on the windows and putting the money toward high-quality siding and an attractive door. Usc siding that provides texture and shadow, such as clapboards or shingles. If you want the shed to blend in with the landscape, leave the cladding natural, or p.'1int it a shade of green. To distinguish lhe shed from the garden. add color. The trim color from the home often is a goocl choice. Roxana Vargas-Greenan (www.vargas greenan.eom) is an architect and urban designer in Berkeley, Caljf.

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mastercar Cutting a double-blad BY BilL CAOLEY h(" scarf joint was horn of necessity when carpenters n~dcd longer timbers than their forest.'; could provide. The first documented example comes from the remains of a ith-C<:lltury Anglo-Saxon burial ship that was

discovered In an English rlvcrb.1nk. A scarf was used to join stem and stern timbers to a center keel. Dozens of scarf joints have been documentet:l over time. Some have failed miserably, while orhen have survived centu ri e~. The doublebladed scarf, first intnxluccd in the 16th century, is the strongest joint

for ;oining (',1,'0 timbers, Commonly used in a horizontal application (over a post, for instance), it also can be llSl"d vertically. Thi5 particular timber-frame joint has long been a favorite of mine because of its decorativ(' as well as its structural power. To make it stand out more, I increase the length of the blades from the usual llf.tin.to5in. Accurate layout is critical if you don't wam tospc:nd all day fining the four face cut.~ on each half of the joint. It is a time-<onsuming process, but my speed picks up on the second and third joints. In a completed frame, the scarf is an eloquent rep~lltation of the time spc:nt and the level of my craft.

For more than 30 years, Bill Cadley has run Pagoda Timber Frames in Chester. Conn. Photos by Charles Bickford, except where noted. 92

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Layout is based on a centerline Typically 20 in. to 30 in. long, the completed 5Cilrf consists of two identical halves. Each has a S-in. by 1'1z路in. blade, a 14-in. space, and a corresponding 5-in. by 11h-in. housing. Once assembled, the joint can be pegged through the blades.

Mar*: the end of the cut to 'educe tearout. The joinery is as decorative as it is 5trl/dUTill, so it's Importllnt to have dean cuts. With that in mind, use a chisel to score the end grain at the end of the housing cu t. Next, rip the centerline from both sides; the mortise will clean out anything left by the stopped cuts.

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Back-cutting ",ahl an •• sl.r fit. After the shoulder is cut (above left), the blade end is relieved acrou its cantllr (below left). The housing can be excavated with a drill and chisel, or it can be (:Cut with a chain mortiser (center). The end reslllt should be a dean, tight housing for the blade. The back end of the housing is relieved with It chisel, 50 any adjustments have to be made only to the exposed ooges of the blade. • • • • • • • Tast and tuna tile fit. With the two /lalves assembled, check all mating edges to S6e that there aren't any gaps caused by an improper fit. '" this case, II gap at the blade WiIS reduced by a sawkerf on the shouldt1f.

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greatmoments IN BUILDING HISTORY

This Is Only a Test f you'vl": been arollnd a fast-paced, proouction-type job site, then you know that when you get a new crew member, he has to live up to (eruin cxrx:ctations. You know-the standard unspoken rulc~. I can already hear my wife saying that's not fair. Fair is not part of chis equation. It comes with the territory of paying your dues. With the young guys, it might be having them look for a board stretcher or maybe a sky hook. But with a new guy who has bttn around or is somewhat seasoned, you just have [0 let time and his skills show his steel. No m..1.ttcr how you slice it, we've all had to take the test at one time or another. Several years ago, I was working a big job as a foreman of a framing crew. It was one of those bittcr-cold winter days in early January when the clouds are gray and depressing. We'd been framing in damp mid~30s weather and were happy to take a midmorning break just to warm up and talk over hot coff~, a snack, and a smoke if anyone was so inclined. We older guys knew when to break. Most of us didn't wear watches, but we could tell when it was around 10 a.m. A certain tiredness would s.et in. You could fed it down to the bone. The young guys waited till we went toour ever~ changing brcak area and dropJXd our bags. Like horS(':s ready to feed, the rest of the crew showed up. One of the new guys walked up to take his break. Alex was from the southern coast of Oregon and had been with us since late autumn. This guy had worken other jobs ~fore hut was new to my crew. Alex wasn't much of a talker, but he was one of the best carpcmers I'd ~ecn in a long time. In my eyes, he had al ready

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shown me what he was 'NOrth-very thorough, making sure to check and rechttk ~fore making a cut. One less guy for me to wOfry about, and even less for the pickup crew to deal with. Robert, one of the younger guys on the crew, trying to make some sort of points with the team, asked Alex jokingly why he hadn't gone back to the beach in the colder months: "Doesn't the cold hurt your little fingicsr~ And then he began [0 laugh. Alex just smiled and headed for hi~ lunch box. Robert didn't like the silent treatment and tried to razz Alex again. I thought Alex could omframe this youngster and probably O\lt~ muscle him in the insult department. Instead, Alex took a 16-pcnny out of his bag and, with a Aip of his wrist, Aung the nail and stuck i[ in a 2x4 about to ft. away. That's in the 2x pan, noc. the 4. "Wow!" Ro~rt said. "Thilt was totally lucky." You could say thai :lgain. "Ret you can't do that twice," sneered Robert. Even I would hav!' taken that bet. I figurcd it was just a lucky shot and that would be the end of it. Without a word. Alex did it again, and only inches from the first one. A ghost of a smile cros~d his face. Now it was Robert's turn to ~ silent. Turning back to the break area, Alex walhd OVcT, dropped his bags, and poured a cup. Nothing more was said. Alex had passed the test, and [hen some. Looking over at him, I raised my cup. then finished it and fig~ ured a ~cond cup would do ~fore I headed back out there.

-Paul Ramira, &Ima, Ore.

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bout a ye.r ago, .....e received a letter that began, -I want to thank you for the .article 'Orn.rnenal Plaster Restoration' in the.J.nuary 1990 islutl. By using the ted'lniques outlined in the .rtkle, and just about four years' worth

of off·and·on work, I finally com-

pleted a plast.r ceiling medalliofl----Regards, Mike Oufano. ~

As we fanned through the photos thirt Mike sent, we were

quickly impreS5ed. Duleno cIestgned and built the medallion 10 adorn the dining room of his new Victorian home. UJing the profile from" period

bue cap, he made. steel to fonn the outer ring.

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He ca.t ornamental I••ves using molds made of urethane

and auto-body fill.,. Aft.r rough-casting the 400 oute,ring beads from a rubber-bumper

5heet mold, Dufano sanded &ach to uniformity. The perimeter embellish--

ments wafe applied after the medallion was secuted to the ceiling_

To view more photos and details about the ceiling medallion, visit the editor's blog at

FineHomebuilding.com. To read the origina~fld stilt releValflt_ ilrticle. see -Ornamental Piilster Restoration- by David Flaharty in FHB 157 afld online at FineHomebuilding.com.

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