The Jeweller Magazine - Feb 2011 by Zest Europe

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Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

The Jewellery Show preview Fairtrade Fairmined Gold arrives Wedding jewellery trends 2011 The Jeweller is produced in conjunction with the British Jewellersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Association

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The Voice of The Industry

Contents |

the

Jeweller The Voice of The Industry

C O N T E N T S

www.thejewellermagazine.com

J A N / F E B

1 1

Communiqué

Editor’s Letter

Industry News

Show and Tell

NAG News

The Jewellery Show at Spring Fair International is

BJA News

BJA Member Survey

just around the corner – here’s a sneak preview I

Newcomers

Jeweller Picks

The Look Book

BJA Membership Benefits

Legal Jeweller

Security Update

Antique Jeweller

Brand Profile: 5c

Opinion: John Henn

How the Antwerp-based diamond jewellery

Insurance Matters

Education & Training

Notebook

Industry Update

Appointments

Display Cabinet

One ring to bind them

The Last Word

With or without a big royal ‘do’, the wedding

The Jeweller is published by CUBE Publishing on behalf of the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For further information about The Jeweller please visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com

The editor’s choice from the new collections I

BJA Cuffs Award

company is successfully moving with the times

The Soul of Gold Greg Valerio reports on the long-awaited arrival of Fairtrade Fairmined Gold

jewellery market looks positively blooming, reports Belinda Morris

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.

The National Association of Goldsmiths 78a Luke Street,

Cover Image In conjunction with Ti Sento Milano Judith Wade – UK Sales Manager Tel: 07834 490060 Web: www.tisento-milano.com The Jewellery Show/Spring Fair Hall 17, stand T28

London EC2A 4XG

CUBE Publishing Sales Director: Ian Francis Tel: 020 7833 5500

Tel: 020 7613 4445

ian@cube-uk.com

www.jewellers-online.org

Art Director: Ben Page

Editor: Belinda Morris

ben@cube-uk.com

Tel: 01692 538007 bmorris@colony.co.uk

Publisher: Neil Oakford neil@cube-uk.com

BJA Marketing & PR Manager Lindsey Straughton

Contributors:

lindsey.straughton@bja.org.uk

Mary Brittain, John Henn,

Tel: 0121 237 1110

Greg Valerio, Jo Young

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

The Voice of the Industry 3

| Comment

Communiqué M I C H A E L

H O A R E ’ S

Michael Hoare, the NAG’s CEO, starts the year by contemplating the soaring price of gold, musing on a wishful-thinking cabinet and deciphering employment legislation.

Precious Indeed t the back end of last year I was invited to attend the biennial dinner given by the London Bullion Market Association (LBMA) at Goldsmiths’ Hall. As a bonus, an afternoon seminar was thrown in to give added value to the many attendees who had travelled from overseas to be at the evening event. Now gold is currently a cause of concern for jewellers and is making re-stocking a painful business, so with the price that day standing at $1424 I was intrigued to see what the wholesale trade made of it. While parts of the seminar were delivered in an impenetrable foreign language as far as I was concerned, the parts I understood gave me no indication of a price drop in the short term, and if one notes that gold stood at $270 in 2000, we seem to be witnessing an inexorable rise in the graph. LBMA Chairman, Kevin Crisp, who manages precious metals for the Mitsubishi Corporation as his day job, put this down to the crisis in the financial sector; the recession and the ballooning of government borrowing and quantitative easing. Investors, as you will not be surprised to hear, are searching for a refuge in tangible assets.

4 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

But it isn’t just the increase in investment demand that has affected the price of gold and other precious metals. The automotive industry has wanted its share for catalytic converters but this could be curtailed by the increasing popularity of battery and electric vehicles. But catalysts are likely to be around for the next fifteen years, and likely to spread as the third world introduces more rigorous emissions controls. Likewise the demand for silver has been affected by the decline in use of photographic emulsions brought about by digital photography. However, its use in photovoltaic cells, touch

at UBS Bank, predicted new highs with an expected average of around $1400. The unknown factor is Chinese concern about inflation. The private market is opening up but, while Chinese central banks are not visibly buying gold, they are currently relatively under-bought. Any shift in that position could have dramatic effects on us all.

Green, and Pleasant Land! rankly there is nothing ‘fun’ or ‘festive’ about accounting software. But in a desperate attempt to shoehorn itself into the media, one maker of such products came up with a jolly wheeze which provided a winter pick-me-up. It involved asking 1,327 British business owners who they would like to form a ‘fantasy cabinet’. Sir Philip Green, boss of the Arcadia group was the most popular choice for Prime Minister, while Peter Jones, the mobile phones tycoon and Dragons’ Den investor was selected as Deputy Prime Minister. Other posts in the imaginary fourteen-strong cabinet included Chancellor of the Exchequer – Michael Morley, CEO of Coutts & Co; Home Secretary – Allan Leighton, former chairman of Royal Mail; Foreign Secretary – Sir Richard Branson,

Asked to select some ‘wild card’ appointments, forty-two per cent of respondents named Ryanair boss Michael O’Leary as Minister for Fun, and fifty-six per cent thought ex-BP Chief Executive Tony Hayward would make a great Crisis Secretary! screens, and medical applications where its antiseptic properties are valuable, has increased demand. Jewellers’ demand for gold in 2011 is predicted to be marginally higher as buyers accept that prices are going to stay firm and Dr Edel Tully, precious metal strategist

owner of the Virgin Group and Business Secretary – Sir Stelios Haji-Ioannou, founder of Easyjet. One can only imagine the testosterone in that room! Mind you, considering that most politicians have little or no business experience, the newcomers would probably

Comment | make a better fist of it than many recent cabinets of either political persuasion. But if we don’t want to be run by a ‘cabinet in exile’, we might have to sort out the residency status of one or two of the nominees. So far, so good! Other flashes of genius include: Culture Secretary – Charles Saatchi; Defence Secretary – Sir Christopher Gent, chairman of GlaxoSmithKline; Education Secretary – J.K. Rowling; Environment Secretary – Sir James Dyson; Health Secretary – Duncan Bannatyne, Dragon and gyms tycoon; Energy & Climate change Secretary – Vince Dale, Ecotricity owner; Transport Secretary – Sir Moir Lockhead, CEO of FirstGroup; Secretary of State for Work and Pensions – Lord Alan Sugar. One has to admit that on the basis that most of those named have a working knowledge of their portfolio, unlike the most recent ministers, the selection has a kind of warped logic. I have a feeling, however that not everyone was treating the poll with due seriousness. Asked to select some ‘wild card’ appointments, fortytwo per cent of respondents named Ryanair boss Michael O’Leary as Minister for Fun, and fifty-six per cent thought ex-BP Chief Executive Tony Hayward would make a great Crisis Secretary!

Happy New Year he new-year looks set to be another bumper one for employment legislation. First off the blocks on 1st February are increased compensation limits for tribunal claims. The maximum compensatory award for unfair dismissal will rise to £68,400 and the maximum amount of a week’s pay, used to calculate statutory redundancy pay, will rise to £400. These changes have already sparked a debate about the lack of downside risk for claimants, with one HR director branding the whole employment tribunal system as ‘legalised extortion’. So look out for fireworks ahead! New statutory payment rates are expected to apply from 11th April and these will involve increases in Statutory Maternity Pay, Statutory Paternity Pay and Statutory Adoption Pay. Statutory Sick Pay will increase, with the weekly earnings threshold also rising, while Maternity Allowance will also go up. Some provisions of the Equality Act 2010 are yet to come into force. Most likely to be enacted are measures on positive action in recruitment and promotion allowing employers ‘to apply voluntary positive action in recruitment and promotion processes when faced with two or more candidates of equal merit, to address under-representation in the workforce.’ Confused? The right to request flexible working will be extended to parents with children under eighteen, with additional paternity leave and additional paternity pay affecting parents whose babies are due on or after 3rd April. If that isn’t enough to be going on with, other developments expected in April include the commencement of the Bribery Act 2010 and transitional provisions phasing out the default retirement age. So there’s another fantastic year ahead for employment lawyers and legal anoraks, but rest assured we will be keeping a watchful eye on proceedings and reporting our findings in n:gauge.

The Voice of the Industry 5

WEDDING & BRIDAL COLLECTION

New Wedding Ring and Bridal Collection available at The Jewellery Show Stand N40 T +44 (0) 121 236 4772 info@dominojewellery.com www.dominojewellery.com

Comment | This month:

Editor’s

Letter

“…the flow of information through the internet ensures that everyone is more educated about diamonds than they were in the past.

Happy New Year everyone! And before you ask, no, I haven’t jumped on the frenzied media bandwagon by choosing to write about wedding jewellery in this issue. No, really… it’s a feature that’s been planned for months, honestly. But I can’t fault William and Kate’s timing – it was spot on. So thanks guys, your announcement, engagement ring reveal and the ensuing buzz provided a very handy focus for an overview of this sector of the jewellery market – which, by all accounts, is doing rather nicely and can only benefit by the romance in the air.

Page 52

And while on the subject of love, Valentine’s Day is the date that the Fairtrade Foundation has chosen to launch the world’s first certified Fairtrade Fairmined gold supply – a greatly anticipated event. In this issue jeweller and activist Greg Valerio – himself a key figure in the quest to bring ethical gold to all players in the industry – outlines the issues, struggles and triumphs that have brought about this historical and very welcome development. But just before that particular launch, we’re all looking forward to hundreds of other launches – during The Jewellery Show at Spring Fair International, to be held at the NEC Birmingham next month. As I write, the finishing touches are being put to new jewellery

“Was recycling a ring an austerity measure? Would it have been better if William had commissioned a contemporary design?

collections, ready for the great unveiling on 6th February. Our preview of the fair reveals just a teeny bit of the excitement on offer – catwalk shows, seminars, parties and all. So, after a tricky old Christmas – weather-wise it was a shocker and for a moment there things were starting to look a tad bleak – let’s hear it for an uptempo, positive start to 2011.

PS – If you would like to meet The Jeweller team and myself to discuss any editorial or advertising issues, we will be at The Jewellery Show from Monday onwards, based on the NAG stand (Hall17, R40/S41), and would be delighted to see you!

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: bmorris@colony.co.uk

Page 62

The Voice of the Industry 7

| Industry News

A tough January after December’s snow? ccording to an NAG survey conducted this January to gauge members’ views on the 2010 festive period, the coldest December since records began certainly had a major impact on sales. And the oncoming increase in VAT has done little to reduce the pessimism. But, in common with performance across other retail sectors, the news wasn’t all bad. When asked how their sales compared to what they had expected at this time of year, over a third of the NAG respondents said that they were as expected for the period, while 29 per cent stated they were below the predicted number. Although two-thirds saw no improvement, 23 per cent said sales were better than expected, and around 10 per cent stated that their sales were excellent and greatly exceeded expectations. Of these sales, 2010’s best sellers were beaded and diamond set jewellery, followed closely by sales of watches. Unsurprisingly, around half thought the poor weather was the main reason for their disappointing sales. Thirty-seven per cent believe the recent round of government austerity measures was a large contributing factor for consumers reigning in their spending. This shows a complete turn

8 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

around compared with the previous year’s figures. In comparison to 2009, just under half stated that 2010 Christmas sales were lower than the previous year’s while 58 per cent of respondents said that their sales remained the same, or increased. Prospective figures for the next year are also plagued with the pessimism that’s been rife throughout the retail sector since the start of the global economic downturn. Almost 80 per cent of members expect 2011 total sales to be the same or worse than in 2010, with only 20 per cent expecting sales figures to improve. These pessimistic figures are due to the VAT increase, with 52 per cent of members still expecting to be putting prices up this year, despite the lukewarm sales figures for 2010. The lack of confidence felt by many jewellers as they move into 2011 seems to tally with a snapshot survey published by the British Retail Consortium’s, which finds that the majority of UK retailers predict a decline in business in 2011. Their biggest concerns for the New Year are weak consumer demand and inflationary pressures. Nearly two thirds of retailers said they expect retail sales to worsen compared with 2010, while 18 per cent expect an improvement.

While the two weeks leading up to Christmas certainly weren’t without their problems for jewellers (the Signet Group’s announced that UK sales were down 4.2 per cent in the nine weeks to 1st January 2011 due to ‘adverse winter weather’) the news wasn’t – and isn’t – all bleak for the industry. Some that The Jeweller spoke to are taking an optimstic view. Looking back over the past month, Andrew Gordon of Allum’s Jewellers of Wellington in Shropshire feels that his business coped quite well. “The week ending the 19th December was a disaster, we were 20 per cent down – it was like someone had turned the tap off,” he says. “But the week after Christmas we did extremely well. Overall, sales for October, November and December are 5.3 per cent up on the same period for 2009.” Harriet Kelsall, with shops in Cambridge and Hertfordshire coped with a skeleton staff and some postal problems and then the shutting of the Cambridge branch the weekend before Christmas. “It must have had a negative impact on our sales, which put me into quite a panic,” she says. “However, on reflection now, looking at the figures, we did well this Christmas and our figures are actually up on last year’s figures which is good. So we did okay despite this awful weather. We are refitting our Cambridge shop but our Hertfordshire studio is busier than ever with an unprecedented number of customers and enquiries… it’s even busier than it was just before Christmas. So perhaps people are optimistic for a great 2011.”

Industry News |

London Bullion Market Association seminar embers and guests of the London Bullion Market Association (LBMA) met at Goldsmiths’ Hall in London in late November for a seminar and biennial dinner. Guest speaker at the dinner was Howard Davies, director of the London School of Economics, whose previous appointments have included chairmanship of the Financial Services Authority from 1997-2003. He was Deputy Governor of the Bank of England from 1995 to 1997. Addressing the seminar – which was convened to look into the future of the gold market – Kevin Crisp, chairman LBMA, and manager, Precious Metals, Mitsubishi Corporation, explained that the price of gold has been influenced by the crisis in the financial sector; the recession and the ballooning of government borrowing; quantitative easing and investors searching for a refuge in tangible assets. Dr Edel Tully of UBS predicted new highs for gold in 2011, and Barbara Ridpath, chief executive, International Centre for Financial Regulation gave her thoughts on the role of the official sector in the gold market. Stewart Murray, chief executive, LBMA, closed the seminar with an illustration of the history and role of The Good Delivery System. The Association represents the wholesale gold and silver bullion market in London which is the focus of the international Over-the-Counter (OTC) market for gold and silver. Its client base includes the majority of the central banks that hold gold, plus producers, refiners, fabricators and other traders throughout the world.

Beaconsfield jeweller fined for false use of NAG insignia Beaconsfield jewellery shop and its company director have been fined for falsely displaying the NAG Grant of Arms. Bradley’s Fine Jewellery and the company director, Peter Bradley, appeared at High Wycombe Magistrate's Court on 10th January following an investigation by Buckinghamshire County Council Trading Standards, after receiving two complaints. Mr Bradley and the company were fined £450 each for displaying the NAG insignia without being members of the Association or having been subject to its checks. Each pleaded guilty to two charges of unfair commercial practice under the Consumer Protection from Unfair Trading Regulation 2008, and were also ordered to pay £515 in costs. Commenting on the case, NAG CEO Michael Hoare said: “Being a member of the NAG confers benefits, and provides the public with the reassurance that the jeweller displaying the Grant of Arms is reputable and trustworthy. Those who display our insignia without authorisation are attempting to deceive the public, and I am delighted that Trading Standards are taking a renewed interest in businesses who claim credentials they do not deserve.”

Put conflict diamonds on agenda says WFDB orld Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) President Avi Paz has called on each bourse member to hold a general assembly to discuss how to protect the reputation of the WFDB-affiliated diamond bourses and their members. He said the management of individual bourses should prepare presentations in their native language on the Kimberley Process Certification process, and the absolute ban on conflict diamonds as expressed in the rules and regulation of the WFDB. In addition, bourses should provide information on the absolute ban on trading in conflict diamonds as laid out in the rules and regulations of each individual bourse, and, if possible, a quick refresher on the rules and regulations of diamond imports and exports in each country.

S N I P P E T S New marketing manager and website for IJL International Jewellery London (IJL) has announced the appointment of Sarah Kitley as the show’s new marketing manager. She has worked within marketing for Reed Exhibitions for four years on several of the event organiser’s high profile exhibitions. One of Kitley’s first initiatives has been to revitalise www.jewellerylondon.com – the IJL website which went live last December. The new site features a number of new elements including IJL TV which showcases a selection of video testimonials and highlights from the show, together with the IJL Edit. The latter, offering all the latest IJL news, both on and off the show floor, will be published three times a year and issued electronically to the IJL database. Royal Mint reveals design of Royal engagement coin The Royal Mint has revealed the design of the £5 Alderney coin to commemorate the engagement of Prince William to Catherine Middleton. This is the first ever Royal Engagement coin produced during the long history of the Royal Mint and has been approved by Her Majesty The Queen and His Royal Highness Prince William of Wales. The coin will now go into production at the Royal Mint’s manufacturing plant in Llantrisant, South Wales. Rare Heuer watches sell for record prices The Haslinger Collection of fine and rare Tag Heuer watches sold at Bonhams last month for £475,764. The sale of this collection, assembled by collector Arno Haslinger, was held in partnership with TAG Heuer to help celebrate the brand’s 150th Anniversary. The saleroom was packed, and there were many telephone and internet bidders participating from around the globe. Of 81 watches, 99 per cent sold by value with only two watches failing to sell. The day’s top lot was a 1974 Monaco which was the subject of fierce bidding before going for £48,000, smashing its pre-sale estimate of £10,000-15,000 – a world record for a Monaco model watch.

The Voice of the Industry 9

| Industry News

Scotland’s biggest jewellery store opens

S N I P P E T S London Jewellery networking events The London Jewellery School based in Hatton Garden has launched monthly networking events which will be open to all those in the trade, from jewellers, stone setters and polishers, to students, teachers and enthusiasts. They are aimed at bringing like-minded individuals together and having a platform for networking and sharing ideas within the industry. The first of the evening events was held on 25th January, with designer-maker Sima Vaziry talking about her work and business. Future events will be on 23rd February, 23rd March and 21st April 2011. Tickets are £8 (including a glass of wine) and advance booking is advisable. Email: jessica@londonjewelleryschool.co.uk for more details. New designer shows at British Museum

iss Scotland 2010 Nicola Mimnagh has launched Scotland’s biggest jewellery store in Glasgow’s famous Argyll Arcade. Scottish brand Rox has invested a total of £1m in a major expansion that has more than quadrupled the size of its flagship boutique. The Argyll Arcade store was the brand’s first boutique when it opened in 2002 and eight years on it has been given a complete transformation to take it to over 4,500sq ft across two luxurious levels including a stylish private shopping area on the upper floor. On the ground floor, the new-look store encompasses the space of the former ROX boutique and the unit next door, sister company to Rox, Lewis Grant, which has moved to another unit in the Argyll Arcade. The upper floor has been transformed into a glamorous ‘thrill room’ that will provide a private area for customers shopping for diamonds and higher priced items such as the collection of designer brands the store carries which includes Ebel and Links of London. The lavish space will be used to offer customers the ultimate shopping experience in addition to hosting fashion shows and private events. Highlights of the ‘thrill room’ include its Moet sponsored

10 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

‘diamond bar’, where customers can enjoy a glass of champagne while shopping against a backdrop of mirrored walls and ceilings and a dramatic crystal chandelier. There is also an area where projections of classic movies such as Breakfast at Tiffany’s will be shown. Rox has also announced that Nicola Mimnagh will be taking over from former Miss Scotland Katharine Brown as the new Face of ROX. Rox MD Kyron Keogh said: “As a brand we are determined to push the boundaries and we have gone all out with the expansion of our Argyll Arcade flagship branch to provide our customers with an unrivalled shopping experience. It is unique in the jewellery market and at over 4,500 sq ft; we believe we are now the biggest jewellery store in the country. “We’ve had an exceptionally strong year with projected turnover for year ending 2011 at £9.5m – which is up £2m on last year. Our Argyll Arcade boutique is selling more engagement rings than any other store in the Arcade due to the level of customer service we can provide, the quality of our diamonds and the fact that we have a price promise in place whereby we will match an offer if found to be cheaper elsewhere.

The British Museum has selected nine designs from up-and-coming jewellery artist Sima Vaziry’s new Hidden Heart Afghan-inspired jewellery collection, to be on display and sold at the Grenville Room for the duration of a major exhibition which opens on 3rd March 2011. Vaziry’s handmade jewellery is inspired by Afghan and Persian art, architecture, calligraphy and textures and is a contemporary interpretation of traditional images and features of the country. Mappin & Webb unveils new look and campaign Mappin & Webb, one of the UK’s leading jewellery, giftware, silverware and glassware retailers, has unveiled a new look and a new campaign – A Very British Affair. The collection of gift items and jewellery recall the brand’s heritage and are timelessly stylish. The new store design and brand packaging was launched at the Regent Street flagship store and will be rolled out nationwide. To back up the renowned service of the brand, Mappin & Webb is also offering a ‘Diamond Promise’ guarantee, whereby each diamond purchased is cleaned and inspected every year for the next 10 years.

Seven million reasons to use T.H. March’s Customer Insurance Solutions

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| Industry News

Vicenza CSR seminar success... ore than 120 participants at the Vincenza Ora First jewellery trade show earlier this month attended a high-level seminar about Corporate Social Responsibility in the jewellery industry, conducted by the World Jewellery Confederation Education Foundation (WJCEF). The seminar, which was organised by CIBJO and hosted by Fiera di Vicenza, Italy, highlighted the co-operation that has developed between the international jewellery sector, represented by CIBJO and the United Nations. It traced the development of CSR in the jewellery sector from the start of the conflict diamond crisis at the end of the 1990s to the industry’s commitment to the United Nations to help fulfil the Millennium Development Goals. A team from WJCEF traveled to Vicenza to conduct the seminar. It included Dr. Gaetano Cavalieri, president of CIBJO; Jocelyn Fenard, chief of Partnerships and Resource Mobilisation of the United Nations Institute for Training and Research (UNITAR); Dr. Hanifa Mezoui, a UNITAR fellow and president of the UN-NGO-IRENE association; and Dr. François Loriot, vice president of AIFOMD. In addition, two Italian speakers spoke on the implementation of CSR principles in their respective professional fields. They were Irene Pivetti, the former president of the Italian Chamber of Deputies (the Italian parliament) and president of the Learn To Be Free Onlus Association; and Pilar Coin, the president of the Women’s Jewellery Association of Italy

S N I P P E T S Balagan launches One Wish

...and new RJC member lso during the Vicenza Ora show, the Respoinsible Jewellery Council (RJC) announced that the leading independent association of major Italian jewellers, the Club degli Orafi Italia, has joined the Council’s membership. There are now more than 260 companies and key international and national trade associations – including the NAG, BJA and Jewelers of America – who are members of the RJC. Founded in Milan in 1980, the Club degli Orafi Italia is an association for the whole industry in terms of the sharing of professional culture and relations between the members, the most dynamic and innovative entrepreneurs in the industry. “The Club degli Orafi Italia’s membership of the RJC will reinforce the Council’s mission amongst large and small industry players in the European market, adding an impressive level of expertise from the Italian jewellery industry to the RJC’s efforts,” says John Hall, vice chairman, RJC.

British Silver Week 2011 dates ow in its fourth year, the British Silver Week ‘Festival of Silver’ launches at ‘Pangolin London’ fine art gallery in King’s Cross from 9th-13th May 2011 with five days of themed exhibitions featuring more than 100 of Britain’s finest contemporary silversmiths. The exhibitions will start on the 9th May with all 100 British Silver Week silversmiths displaying their work, followed by: • ‘Silversmithing Masters’ Day’ (10th May) featuring collections by 10 established master silversmiths. • ‘Decorative Silver, Engraving and Enamel’ (11th May) featuring collections by 12 master silversmiths, chasers, engravers and enamellers. • ‘Rising Stars of BSW’ (12th May) featuring collections by 12 of Britain’s up-and-coming new silversmiths. • ‘Collections & Commissioning Day’ (13th May) featuring two contemporary silver collections including the Pearson Collection and the work of 10 master silversmiths who will talk through their work and commissioning silverware.

12 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

Balagan will launch One Wish, a collection of modern wish bracelets at The Jewellery Show . Traditionally the recipient of such a bracelet is entitled to a wish – but only when the bracelet wears out and falls off naturally will the wish come true. These modern day versions in sterling silver and elasticated – a sentimental gift for friends – are designed to stay put. There is also a letters collection, so any word or name can be spelt out, and a collection of colourful woven styles too. Hall 18, Stand G28/H29 Lapponia Jewelry partners with cultural organisation Over the next three years Finland's Lapponia Jewelry will donate a percentage of sales from its classic necklace Pretty Earth to Europa Nostra, the panEuropean organisation that brings together Europe’s growing cultural heritage movement. Featured in Lapponia’s 2010 Anniversary collection Pretty Earth was designed in the 1970s by the recently retired Lapponia designer Poul Havgaard. “Pretty Earth is my message to the world: we have to protect and care for our unique planet – every one of us should take this to heart. The future of mankind depends upon it,” says Havgaard. The design depicts an abstract Sterling silver globe on a long chain. Europa Nostra represents hundreds of organisations and 1,500 individual members from more than 50 countries. Its main commitment is to safeguard and cherish Europe’s cultural design heritage and landscapes. In June 2010 at the Annual Congress in Istanbul, the world-renowned tenor and conductor Placido Domingo became the President of Europa Nostra.

| Industry News

Trollbeads donates to Cancer Research UK

S N I P P E T S Get well Sarah! As The Jeweller went to press we learnt that Sarah Carpin, marketing and communications executive at The Company of Master Jewellers was rushed to hospital with a burst appendix. Returning from the Vicenza fair in Italy, Sarah collapsed at Venice airport. It is understood that she underwent a successful operation in a Venice hospital, where she is expected to remain for a week. All at the NAG and The Jeweller wish her a speedy recovery. PureJewels seeks designers for 2011 collection

anish brand Trollbeads, the original designer of collectable bespoke bead jewellery, has donated £71,862 to support the work of charity, Cancer Research UK. Sole distributor of Trollbeads in the UK and Ireland, Fable Trading Ltd, has raised the money with the support of the head office and Trollbeads retailers throughout the country. A cheque was presented to Alexis Woodward, area volunteer manager for Cancer Research UK, by Peter Aagaard, chief executive of Trollbeads Denmark and Sarah Morfoot, director of Fable Trading Ltd, in Clifton, Bristol, last November. The money raised came in the main from sales of Trollbeads exclusive Empowerment Beads, with some funds from sales of the Pink Ribbon and Turquoise Ribbon beads. Fable Trading first pledged its support to Cancer Research UK back in 2007 when the company dedicated money raised from sales of Trollbeads Rose Ribbon and Turquoise Ribbon beads to Cancer Research UK. Available to retailers as two kits of ten beads in pink or black and white colourways, the beads are sold individually and are priced at £25 each with £10 from each bead donated to Cancer Research UK. These special glass beads have been specifically designed with a larger central core than other Trollbeads so they can be worn with a wide selection of different bracelets and chains.

New designs in Palladium he Palladium Alliance has announced two design projects to be launched in 2011. The first, to be showcased at London Fashion Week in February is Get a Life, a collection inspired by the need to stop climate change, has been created by designer Vivienne Westwood. Pieces from the collection are influenced by nature and symbols from paganism – the acorn, the oak tree and a heart all feature prominently to represent strength, luck, power and hope for change to make the environment better for the future. Her call for action is summed up through her slogan ‘Do it Yourself’ as seen in the Get A Life Palladium collection. Palladium's second partnership is with Central Saint Martins College, whose MA Design & Jewellery course students were set a task to design a two-piece set of jewellery to be judged by a panel of industry experts. The five finalists’ designs will be created into a limited edition collection using pallaium and showcased at a special event in London this March, when the overall winner will be announced.

14 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

For the second year running, Green Street jeweller PureJewels has begun its search for six designers to collaborate on the Platinum Heritage Collection, a project to create inspirational pieces of platinum jewellery based on the shop's cultural heritage. The collection will be launched at events during London Jewellery Week, which will take place from 6th-12th June this year. The six Platinum Heritage Collection designers for 2010 are now working in partnership on diffusion lines for PureJewels, to be launched in 2011. The six selected designers will work closely with the team at PureJewels to develop the pieces, and will work on diffusion lines after LJW 2011. Invicta Watches hits the UK Following a successful selling format in the US, through ShopNBC and QVC America, the Florida-based watch brand Invicta is expanding its distribution outlets in the UK – the latest addition being QVC UK. The first show will air on Saturday, 5th of February at 6pm. Invicta UK was formed four months ago and is headed up by Tom McCulloch. Having generated interest from e-retailers, the company is now interested in developing independent retailers across the UK and Ireland. A vast collection comprising 20 diverse ranges has been edited for the UK market by McCulloch, who is now marketing styles priced between £100 and £2,000. These range from the fashionably edgy to the sporty, and sophisticated – for ladies as well as gents. It is hoped to raise the profile of the brand by celebrity endorsement.

BASELWORLD THE WATCH AND JEWELLERY SHOW MARCH 24 – 31, 201 1

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| Industry News

Critical Incident Support ecent research shows the number of thefts in stores rose by a third in 2009 and incidents of violence and abuse against shop staff doubled. When these type of attacks are life-threatening or affect physical safety, they are classified as a ‘critical incident’. Retail Trust offers a Critical Incident Support service for retailers following traumatic incidents to help staff who have been affected to overcome the difficulties and get back to normal quickly. The service is bespoke to the situation and retailer but usually comprises immediate support and evaluation followed by appropriate counselling. Retail Trust is the only charity that looks after the needs of all three million people working in retail and offers a range of services through its helpline. Employees who witness an accident, suicide or crime at their place of work can feel distressed, but the support that Retail Trust offers can help them get on with their lives. The Retail Trust Helpline team can offer support for staff who have been affected by an incident, and can arrange up to six sessions with a professional counsellor. The Retail Trust Helpline also offers access to: hardship grants, counselling, legal and debt advice, bursaries and scholarships. Retailers who are experiencing problems can call the Retail Trust Helpline 0808 801 0808 in confidence about a critical incident, or any other issues they may be facing.

F.Hinds launches design competition igh street chain F. Hinds is giving two jewellery designers the opportunity to launch a commercial career in this annual competition in association with IJL. There are two categories in the competition: one for students and IJL’s ‘Bright Young Gems’ and the other for any designer exhibiting at IJL 2011, and will be judged by F. Hinds and IJL. F. Hinds will work alongside the two winners to develop their winning pieces – to be sold exclusively at F. Hinds, with the potential for a guaranteed commission, in all of its 110 high street and shopping mall stores across the country, plus via its extensive online shopping store at www.fhinds.co.uk The winning products will be showcased at IJL and feature in the seminar programme. Any design entered should not have been previously made or sold commercially. Contact Pam Fenton, email: pamfenton@pfpr.biz or tel. 01494 718502.

Letters to the Editor Valuations – let’s get things straight I would like to comment on Marion Wilson`s (Birmingham Assay Office) letter to the editor (The Jeweller, November 2010). I was the delegate she refers to, who brought the issue of SafeGuard’s ‘open policy with regard to valuing items bought on the internet and on TV shopping channels’ to light. This was in view of the amazing valuation successes that people have had buying from TV shopping channels, and then advertising their success on the internet.

16 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

As I currently value jewellery from any source, I wanted advice as to the correct way – that is to say, should we value goods in the market in which they are sold, particularly when the goods of similar quality and manufacture cannot be purchased anywhere else? For instance: alexandrite which will not change colour (chrysoberyl) or rubies that have more glass infill than ruby. These are current comments on the internet referring to a SafeGuard valuation: Purchased £599.00, valued £4,750.00. This valuation cannot be correct unless I’m very much mistaken. Using normal mark-ups, this item would normally cost approximately £1750-00 to £1800-00, the material value must be higher than £599-00 less VAT at 17.5 per cent, which equals £509.78. As valuers we all need to be singing from the same hymn sheet. I have not heard of any

New horology Counter Service Course ollowing the success of the first Counter Service Course, run last October by Peter Tales of Horology Consulting, the program is being run for a second time in March of this year, with more dates possible during 2011. The two-day teaching program includes theory about how watches work; what water resistance is and how watch batteries work. There are places for 12 students. It concentrates on introducing practical skills essential for carrying out simple repairs, such as fitting a new strap, adjusting a bracelet, and replacing a battery – which could be done ‘behind the counter’ in any retail environment. The course also covers basic sales skills, customer service, and laws and regulations which affect the sale and repair of watches. The course is modular, and can also be arranged to be taken in-store, with all the tools and materials provided to complete the course. Although aimed at less experienced staff members, the course can also be taken by anyone with an interest in horology, or can be a precursor to considering further degree or distance learning courses in this area of the jewellery industry. For more information or to book a course contact Peter Tales on 07596 547686, or e-mail: peter.tales@btinternet.com

insurance company paying out on valuations of this magnitude, when purchased from a shopping channel. If insurance companies will only pay market values, what about our duty of care to the customer? I personally have seen a number of very dissatisfied customers who have SafeGuard valuations, being offered very low resale figures – these values being in keeping with what one normally expect for the price paid. So Marion my call was for change! From either you or me, so the client and valuer get a fair deal. I believe that it is you who needs to change; this would stop all the other internet postings from people who say “that any jewellery valuer other than SafeGuard is rubbish, as they do not understand how much of a bargain my ring was”. Ken Massow

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| NAG News

NAG prepare for Spring Fair 2011 nce again the National Association of Goldsmiths is exhibiting at The Jewellery Show at Spring Fair, held at the National Exhibition Centre in Birmingham, (6th – 10th February 2011). Spring Fair is the UK’s largest retail trade show, and invites over 27,000 companies from all sectors of the UK’s retail industry, to showcase new products and services. Over the last year, the NAG has seen a number of major progressions, in particular the new online training courses, and the launch of Jet Pro. Perhaps more significantly the NAG’s Executive Development Forum is proving to be a success with the executives of member stores, who appreciate a safe environment to discuss business strategies to see our members through the current difficult times. At this year’s Spring Fair the NAG will roll out a theme to promote its continued commitment to the belief that ‘service comes from knowledge’, and the most effective way to business success is through up-to-the-minute training, and continued education.

This year the NAG’s stand (Hall 17, R40/ S41) will have a ‘Grow Your Own’ theme. Spring being the season of new life, and new beginnings, the NAG is focusing on the new services and products that have been introduced over the last year. Our main focus will be on how to keep staff up-tospeed and motivated and keep businesses on track. Rejuvenation and trend-awareness is an important element of retailing – but finding the time to really consider fresh approaches to business, or to discuss these with other industry professionals is another matter. On this year’s stand, the NAG will be hosting a presentation from Mike McGraw on the work he’s been doing with the NAG’s Executive Development Forum. The presentation will focus on how the EDF assists our members in keeping their business up-todate with the latest retail directions. McGraw will focus on training as an essential part of creating and maintaining sustainable, and cutting-edge business models. A large part of this approach to business involves trade shows themselves. As Michael

Hoare comments: “I find it hard to believe that there are people who never go to trade shows. My interest in Spring Fair isn’t so much the product, although I realise that’s the focus for many, but the trends and industry gossip that circulate at the show. I’m looking for the political angles if you like, but for practising jewellers it’s a way to benchmark their business and the things they sell against the market. For aspiring jewellers, trade show visits could almost be regarded as another module in their ongoing training. So I’d say that this year, we’re not only attending the Spring Fair, but championing its benefits for anyone who wants to continue to run a successful business.” There will be the opportunity to speak to the rest of the NAG team and a chance to win a members-only themed prize. So join us at the show for a glass of bubbly – we look forward to seeing you! For more information call 020 7613 4445 (option 4), email: stacy@jewellers-online.org, visit the NAG stand (Hall17, R40/S41) or see the Fair’s website: www.springfair.com

Improve knowledge, hone skills and boost sales with an NAG seminar Learn To Value 2 day – Mon and Tues 4th/5th April Learn to Value is an intensive course designed to teach the necessary skills in appraisal and valuation methodology. You will learn how to connect your disparate strands of knowledge to produce a sound valuation document with accurate values, using available price sources and provable methodologies. The instructor is Brian Dunn who has over 40 years experience as a retail jeweller and valuer and is a past chairman of the NAG Valuations Committee. NAG Members £342 + VAT Non-Members £506 + VAT Essential Display 1 day – Thurs 12th May/Thurs 6th Oct This seminar is aimed at those with no formal display training and includes instruction on the theory and practice of display. You will learn how to promote buying occasions such as birthdays, anniversaries and Valentine’s Day by creating visually arresting displays in

18 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

your shop. The seminar is given by jewellery marketing expert Judy Head, and includes practical display sessions. NAG Members £212 + VAT Non-Members £274 + VAT Essential Selling 1 day – Tues 22nd March/Tues 20th Sept Following the success of last year’s dates we are delighted that Nigel Amphlett will once again be providing our Retail Selling Seminar. Nigel is a management consultant specialising in Training and Management

Development. He has over 20 years experience working with some of Britain’s largest private and public sector organisations. This one day seminar will improve your selling style; help you to beat targets, convert sales and gain repeat/referral business and improve your confidence in dealing with customer queries or concerns. NAG Members £212 + VAT Non-Members £274 + VAT Diamonds and Diamond Grading 2 day – Tues and Wed 18th/19th Oct With tuition from Eric Emms, the leading UK authority on diamond grading, this NAG seminar held in London is designed primarily for retailers of diamond jewellery. The content of this two-day, mid-week, practical seminar covers the determination of diamond identity, quality and value and is presented specifically from a retailer’s viewpoint. Topics covered during the seminar will include: identification, treatments, clarity grading, colour grading, symmetry and

NAG News | proportions and cut grade determination, carat weight estimation, current diamond economics and corporate social responsibility issues. A comprehensive range of diamond qualities, simulants, treatments, and synthetics will be available for examination and a full set of seminar notes will be given. NAG Members £383 + VAT Non-Members £522 + VAT Diamond Grading in Antwerp 2 day (dates and fees to be confirmed) Learn how to grade diamonds in just two days! The secret to this seminar’s success lies in plenty of practical work with diamonds, combined with an individual follow-up of each student by an expert tutor. In addition, participants visit the renowned diamond-cutting factory together with a tour of the Antwerp Diamond District. Travelling to Belgium is surprisingly easy and the team at Krochmal & Lieber provide a very warm welcome. Please note: seminar fee does not include travel and accommodation.

Dear NAG Member In 2005 when the idea of the Executive Development Forum was first mooted, the fundamental objective was to support jewellers in building better, more professional and more profitable businesses. Some of the specific benefits for Forum members were the sharing of information and experience, the planning of business vision and strategy and building awareness of market influences. Five years on and in the midst of economic turmoil the relevance of these aims to jewellery retailers cannot be overstated. Currently the EDF has a membership of 35 businesses with a collective turnover of over £30 million per annum. The Forum groups initially meet six times a year on dates and at venues to suit members and after that the frequency is determined by the EDF groups. Each meeting is tailored to members’ businesses with an agenda which reflects their immediate and longer term requirements, including such topics as stock management, staff commission and bonuses, repair pricing and the discussion of monthly statistics on sales, profit and stock levels, which every EDF member has access to. While I understand that you as a busy retailer are concerned about the time and cost element of membership, the Executive Development Forum, focused entirely upon your needs, can help you plan and shape the long term direction of your business. The considerable interaction and sharing of ideas and information within and between each group is further enhanced by an annual EDF conference. Here you can listen to carefully chosen presenters, mix with other EDF members outside your group and extend your valuable network. Take this opportunity to be part of this hugely successful initiative in a year when the pressures on retail will challenge even the best jewellers to continue to progress. The seventh EDF group is due to have its first meeting in February 2011 and you could be part of it. You can learn more about the Forum from its facilitator Mike McGraw who can be contacted on tel: 01458 223339, e-mail: mike.mcgraw@development-initiatives.co.uk or you can visit the NAG stand R40/S41 at Spring Fair to discuss Forum membership. For an EDF application form contact Amanda White on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: amandaw@jewellers-online.org I look forward to having you on board. Kindest regards Michael Hoare, CEO The National Association of Goldsmiths.

Save the dates… Council & Forum Meeting 10th March 2011 We would like to invite all of our members to join us at the NAG Council & Forum event at the Museum of London. The theme of the day will be People and Places; exploring small towns in which many of us work, the future workforce and support mechanisms for those who fall foul of the system. The day will commence at 10am with tea or coffee, followed by the formal Council Meeting at 10.30am and presentations by our three guest speakers – Leon Foster Hill (Extending Working Lives), Chris Wade (Action for Market Towns) and John McDermott (Retail Trust). Following the presentations, lunch will be served in the Garden Rooms. To register for the meeting or for more information, please contact Ritu Verma on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email: ritu@jewellers-online.org Annual General Meeting and Luncheon 29th June 2011 This year the NAG’s AGM is to be held at the Goldsmiths’ Hall, Foster Lane, London on Wednesday 29th June. Guests will be invited to arrive at 10am for tea or coffee, followed by the AGM at 11am, a pre-lunch drinks reception then a three course lunch. For further information or to book your place at the AGM and luncheon, please contact Ritu Verma using the details above.

New Member Applications Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Harshita Deolia on 020 7613 4445 or email: harshita@jewellers-online.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue.

Affiliate Applications De Brett’s Jewellery (Richard Bruton) Great Barr, Birmingham

Alumni Applications Georga Anderson, Mexborough

IRV Applications If members wish to comment on any of these, please contact Sandra Page on (029) 2081 3615.

MIRV Applications David Dupuy PJDip PJValDip FNAG FGA Irish Jewellery Valuation Services, Dublin, Republic of Ireland

The Voice of the Industry 19

| NAG News

Member of the Month The first Member of the Month for the new year is Davidsons the Jewellers of Newcastle upon Tyne. Belinda Morris visited the store – while a customer evening was in full swing to celebrate the 50th anniversary of one of its most popular brands, Lapponia of Finland. Tell me about the history of Davidsons. The business was started in 1898 by our great, great Uncle Robert Davidson at number 66 Grey Street. Originally, the bulk of the work consisted of the restoration of silver items and jewellery repairs, both for the public and trade. However, there was always a retailing element involved. Who runs the business today? Brother and sister Tony and Helen Davidson, along with John in the workshop who was originally our grandfather’s apprentice, along with a first-rate team on the shop floor. How has Davidson’s changed over the years and generations? The business has evolved from carrying out minor repair work to catering for discerning people looking for distinctive jewellery which is both timeless in design and superb in quality. Our reputation is built on our history within the city along with our expert knowledge and outstanding service, features which are becoming increasingly rare on the high street. What type of jewellery do you mainly carry these days? Predominantly high quality diamond set jewellery, much of which is produced within the UK by jewellers such as Stephen Foster, David Soley and Christopher Wharton. Other popular lines include Finnish design brand Lapponia and some smaller British designers, such as Latham+Neve and Orlap. Pearls are a favourite of ours and we carry some remarkable pearl jewellery by Gellner, a specialist German company. Baccarat crystal and smaller items of silverware make up our giftware collection. Describe your customer base. Fundamentally we are traditional jewellers; our clientele range from young couples

20 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

looking for engagement rings to others reaching their diamond wedding anniversary and looking for appropriate gifts. Some stock items are quite bold and dynamic but our ethos is quality and style, rather than flash, ‘bling bling’ jewellery. Many of our repeat sales are from customers who appreciate our expert knowledge of gemmology and the technical aspects of creating jewellery. Because we have been established within the city for more than 100 years, buying from Davidsons is a special event, particularly if the buyer has an emotional connection with Newcastle. Do you tend to do quite a few customer evenings such as the Lapponia one? We normally try to have one event a year – recent ones have involved an incredible opal event with one of the largest black opals in the world present in the shop (with security!) and also a specialist evening on pearls during June. What drew you to Lapponia jewellery – and what type of customer does it attract? We have been selling Lapponia jewellery since the early 1970s and many of our

customers have built up quite an amazing collection of historical pieces. Attracted to the range’s adventurous design and composition, juxtaposed with its wearability in an everyday context, it is unlike anything on the market and never fails to turn heads! I know this as wearing it myself, it always draws attention! I think the buyer has to be someone with an appreciation of good design, style and quality. For me Lapponia silver jewellery is a crossover point between costume and high end gem set jewellery. When bought as a gift, a customer may start with a small ring or earrings. However, the beauty of Lapponia is, although matching sets are available, the finish and styling of the jewellery is such that it can be mixed as they all complement each other. How is men’s jewellery performing? Have you sold it in this depth for a while? Male jewellery is an interesting area in the market. On the one hand Newcastle still has a very masculine, working class way of life, but there is also a very self aware fashionista culture. Because we focus on timeless items, the jewellery we sell to a male audience are pieces they will treasure for a lifetime, like wedding bands, cufflinks and signet rings. Can you think of an amusing customerbased anecdote… A recent visit was from a Canadian husband and wife buying an anniversary gift. The lady insisted they wait until their next visit to Newcastle as a she had bought her engagement ring from us many years ago and he had not been present at the time. She was determined he would buy the anniversary ring in person! If you would like your business to be considered as Member of the Month please email: harshita@jewellers-online.org

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BJA News |

Save money on business services with the BJA f somebody offered you access to free legal advice; a hefty discount on your credit card processing; cheaper business insurance; the opportunity to be sent – for free – a list of poor payers within the jewellery industry; or a discount off your stand space at the UK’s major jewellery exhibitions, the chances are you would bite their hand off. There is a hardcore of BJA members who do regularly use the services. Indeed 23 per cent of members questioned recently told us that they were their primary reason for joining in the first place. So it was disappointing to discover that a far greater percentage of those questioned use them only infrequently or

never and are thus missing out on substantial savings which could assist their businesses in these less than perfect times. We are unsure why take up is so low – as the survey tells us that most members are aware that the services exist – but to try and remedy this state of affairs, the Association’s pages in this issue of The Jeweller are dedicated to reiterating exactly what’s on offer. Read on to discover how member firms can benefit substantially, frequently saving most if not all of their membership fee, by cashing in on the many discounts available. Better still come and visit the BJA team at Spring Fair (Stand S44 Hall 17) where Simon

BJA designer-makers on show at Inhorgenta 2011 group of 14 British companies will be exhibiting together at Inhorgenta in Munich from 25th-28th February, 2011. They are part of a joint stand in Hall C2 Stand 621 F supported by UKTI and organised by the BJG International, the export services department of The BJA and its sister trade associations. Colour will be a strong feature of the stand, with John Moore’s large anodised aluminium pieces in the colours of the rainforest; Sheila Fleet’s enamel pieces reflecting the colours of her native Isles of Orkney Fantasy necklace and richly coloured gem- by William stones from Deci Design Cheshire and Anthony Blakeney.

For those seeking on-trend precious jewellery there are exciting new collections from SHO Fine Jewellery and Katie Rowland – both of whom have growing international reputations. Organic, flowing shapes feature in the work of David Gallie, Maya and Very Garcia while Jane Moore and Malcolm Morris offer a fresh take on oxidised silver pieces. For the hottest trend this Spring, ‘fairytale/fantasy’ designs are a big story from William Cheshire, Ware Jewellery and Momocreatura. Over thirty other British companies will be exhibiting independently in Hall C2 – the design hall – several of whom first exhibited at the show as part of the BJA’s ‘London Jewellery Exports Project’ and now return in their own right but with the continuing marketing support of the Association and the LJE website: www.londonjewelleryexports.com Now in its 38th year Inhorgenta, will play host to some 1,143 international exhibitors showcasing the latest innovations in both jewellery and watches.

Mike Hughes, chairman of the BJA

and his team will be happy to talk you through exactly what you’re missing. Finally, I do hope you’ll also take the opportunity to view the winners of the BJA Award at The Jewellery Show which will be shown on the catwalk at the Pandora Café in Hall 17 three times every day for the duration of the show. With very best wishes for a happy and prosperous 2011 and for good trading at the Spring shows.

The BJA’s Lindsey Straughton, who will be attending the show to assist members with their marketing efforts, looks forward to the event: “Inhorgenta is Coloured the perfect place to gemstone ring see the jewellery that by Deci Design will be setting the trends for the year to come and I have no doubt that our British designers will be at the cutting-edge of those trends.” On-trend, sinuously flowing design earrings by SHO Fine Jewellery

The Voice of the Industry 23

| BJA Member Survey

Simon says! BJA CEO Simon Rainer comments on our latest member survey hile working in the States I had the pleasure of knowing a chairman of a major clothing and accessories brand whose favourite get-out clause whenever posed with a difficult question was to quickly reply that it was a level of detail he was not accustomed to handling. Whether he was supremely lucky or blessed with a divine right to be successful in business, his words have always stayed with me as the antitheses of how to run a business. In my own experience, it is the knowledge of detail that sets many companies apart and those that subscribe to understanding detail are invariably the most successful.

external market research company, over half the membership was contacted by phone and by late September the results were collated and disseminated to produce a series of concise, segmented, working documents. For those that took part in the survey, our sincere thanks and during the course of the year there will be further surveys to monitor our progress and to collect your feedback on current issues and our range of services. In addition to a general overview of the whole membership, the survey produced individual results for the various industry types that make up the membership; this invaluable segmentation has allowed us be very precise in understanding the different

BJA Member Survey What do you consider is the single most important issue which is affecting your business today? Economy generally (36%) Postage costs (1%) Price of materials (19%) Ethical materials (1%) Marketing (4%) Need for skilled people (3%) Other (6%) Security (1%) Business opportunities (5%) Cheap imports (4%) Competition (5%) Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know (5%) Cash flow (4%) Debtors (4%) Exchange rates (2%)

Which in a somewhat round about way brings me to the recent membership survey undertaken by the BJA. Upon taking up the post as the new CEO of the BJA, one of my first needs for detail was to understand who the BJA membership was and perhaps more importantly to ensure that what we were supplying in the way of industry leadership and services was relevant to current jewellery industry and market requirements. In early September, the BJA membership was emailed to ask for its participation in a telephone survey. Using the services of an

24 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

requirements by industry membership sector. Consequently, this will impact on our communication strategy for the coming year and has already had a profound impact on the redesign of the BJA web site which will be up and running in the Spring. Appreciating that many companies are now involved in many aspects of the jewellery industry, we were specific in asking companies for their principle business activity. The survey identified seven key industry types that make up the BJA membership with jewellery manufacturers, importers and

distributors forming a little over 40 per cent, closely followed by designer makers at just under 30 per cent of the membership. Perhaps the most telling part of the survey was the responses collected regarding membership services offered by the BJA. We are obviously appreciative of the fact that services have to be in line with member requirements and industry influences, with consideration to new legal and economic legislation. While it was not surprising that many members prioritise BJA membership services by trade fair discounts and access to information/advice, it was interesting to note that many members were not aware of our full range of services â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a level of detail that will soon be corrected by more effective and targeted communication! Aligned to the current range of BJA membership services was a question relating to the issues that are currently most affecting member businesses and these responses are currently the foundation for the introduction of new BJA services. Of most concern were the economy, price of materials, business opportunities and cheap imports. By far the most interesting element of the survey were the responses received regarding the additional services that the membership would like to see the BJA provide. This query resulted in a huge range of replies ranging from more help with networking, more industry information and advice on a broad spectrum of issues including security, ethical, retailing, overseas opportunities and sourcing. What this says very loud and clear is that there is a need for more effective communication â&#x20AC;&#x201D; not only from the BJA to the membership but also between the members themselves. And, in part validated by the survey results, it confirms that over two thirds of the BJA membership would be prepared to participate in regional meetings. 2011 will be a key year for the BJA and its membership. A year of more effective communication, more responsive to member needs and of course understanding and acting on the detail!

Hall 18 G30/H31 www.kitheath.com Tel 01271 329123 Email sales@kitheath.com

the

POLICE AZZA FAHMY Cairo-based Azza Fahmy, who has been a leading jewellery designer in the Middle East for over 40 years, is renowned for her hand-crafted filigree work in silver, 18ct gold and gemstones. Mixing traditional symbolism and calligraphy with futuristic and innovative design elements she offers a contemporary twist on the classics. www.azzafahmy.com

The new ‘Navy’ collection of ladies’ fashion watches from Police includes this goldcoloured stainless steel style (which is also available in silver) which features enamel detailing on the inner link of the bracelet as well as around the dial. The watch also features a second hand subdial. Tel: 0121 436 1200

AMISHI

Jeweller picks...

From glittering fine jewellery to designs using new materials, and bold contemporary styles, we highlight some of the best for 2011.

Mayfair-based designer Amishi, who is known for her luxury collection of bejewelled clutch bags, has launched a collection of jewellery to complement the accessories. This choker is made from a gold-coloured alloy, but the collection also includes boldly colourful, crystal encrusted pieces as well as delicate filgree hoop earrings and matching cuff and retro style drop earrings. info@amishi.eu

A.B.ART

New from contemporary Swiss designer watch brand a.b.art, is this limited edition, sleek black-on-black timepiece. Elegant, dynamic and sportily smart, the All Black OA features a 40.5mm case, pin sharp luminescent hands, see-though case back and a 21mm wide matching matt black leather strap. The self-winding movement is embellished with 25 jewels and the watch retails at £598.00. www.abart-uk.com

KHONJE

Giving a completely new effect to the timeless allure of pearls, South Africa-based Khonje Designs Jewellery has created unique and exclusive pendants, by using them together with the delicate colours of dyed ostrich leather. Designer Ceciwa Khonje specialises in combining precious metals and stones – often diamonds – with the leather. As well as creating other pieces using silver and gold, she designed a collection to celebrate the 2010 World Cup. www.khonjedesigns.com

THE BRANCH

Rosewood with gemstones set with silver and 18ct gold plated silver is the signature look of The Branch jewellery. New for 2011 is the ISIS collection, a bold range which has been created through a new concept for The Branch: combining 18ct gold plated base metal set with signature gemstones – but without the rosewood. Inspired by ancient Egyptian jewellery and culture, the collection includes a varied selection of pieces set with stones including green aventurine, black onyx and cornelian, all set on hand crafted rings, cuffs and bangles with earrings and necklaces to match. Tel: 01787 477 005

JADA TRIGO

Hand-made in Mexico by artisans aged from 20-80, using traditional methods, Trigo jewellery uses sterling silver dipped in 18 carat gold, together with gemstones and resin. The collection comprises cuffs, drop earrings and bracelets as well as this multi disc necklace. www.trigojewelry.com

London-based Jada – whose designer Ceyda is originally from Turkey – creates delicate jewellery using yellow, rose and white gold. The circle necklace here is set with diamonds, but she also specialises in using a variety of coloured gemstones for her pieces for children such as ladybird and bird bracelets, as well as women. www.jewellerybyjada.com

Following the success of its Eternity rings, Carat – creators of man-made gems – has launched a new range of ‘Hot Stack rings’. These are set with a selection of colourful Carat stones and gold finishes: black, white, champagne, yellow and fancy pink, handcrafted in solid 9ct white, yellow, rose and black gold as well as sterling silver. The rings can be worn alone or mixed and matched into a wide range of vibrant combinations and styles. Tel: 020 7379 5320, www.carat.cc

FORTIS

The rose gold Stratoliner chronograph by Fortis is limited to 100 pieces and comes in 18 carat rose gold (the steel polished model is limited to 2012 pieces and comes with a bicolor finish). Both models feature a contrast dial with its sub counters complementing the three-part bi-colour case. Other features include a black leather or croco-leather strap with folding clasp and a transparent case back. www.fortis-watches.com

ANDREW GEOGHEGAN

CARAT

This new rose gold and quartz cocktail ring is one of the pieces from Andrew Geoghegan’s Celestial limited collection of statement rings. Inspired by 1930s fine cocktail jewellery, the full range includes tourmilated quartz, rutilated quartz, peridot and white and Tahitian pearls in platinum, white, yellow and rose gold. www.andrewgeoghegan.com

ZELIA HORSLEY

Zelia Horsley's Un-Hinged SS11 collection is a collaboration of texture and colour with mechanical articulating elements and draping and threaded chains. All chains and hinges together with their textures and idiosyncrasies have had a previous life. They are 50 to 70 years old and have been rescued and revitalised to begin a new life. www.zeliahorsley.com

Telephone + 44 (0)844 871 8454 www.londonroadjewellery.co.uk info@londonroadjewellery.co.uk

KRISTINA CHARRINGTON ANNIKA RUTLIN

GUESS JEWELLERY

Hearts obviously have more than a touch of Valentine’s about them, but are equally apt for any romantic occasion. With the subtle heart shapes of the wings, these angelic designs in sterling silver by Annika Rutlin are available as earrings, pendants and pins and can also be made in 9ct and 18ct gold, prices on request. www.annikarutlin.com

Gloucestershire-based designer Kristina Charrington draws upon her Nordic roots to create jewellery that juxtaposes heavy precious metals and gemstones – such as iolite and white topaz. This large cross pendant is available in silver as well as white or yellow 9 or 18 ct gold and with a variety of different stones. Floral and heart motifs are also strong in her collection of earrings, rings, bracelets and pendants. www.kristinacharrington.co.uk

For Spring 2011, Guess Jewellery launches a new pendant collection introducing 12 glittery, playful styles. Highlights from this new collection include a silver crystal encrusted bear, delicate whimsical fairy, and white owl with piercing blue eyes. A pave snake coils around a signature red heart adding a dramatic edge to the collection. Other unique designs include a penguin, dragon, bunny, and this bee. Each features combinations of crystal, coloured enamel accents, and a variety of plating colors. Tel: 01604 678 940

MEHBS YAQUB

With fans ranging from Kylie to Elton, London-based designer Mehbs Yaqub’s jewellery collection features chunky wrist and ankle cuffs and necklaces in rich jewel tones. Butter-soft leather and python straps are intricately hand-detailed with Swarovski crystals and vintage glass as well as silver metalwork, to create these avant-guard yet timeless pieces. www.mehbsyaqub.com

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Spring fair Hall 17 Stand T28

| BJA Membership Benefits

Six good reasons for belonging to the BJA Whatever type of jewellery business you are in, being a member of The BJA makes sense. Whether you are looking for moneysaving services; ways to promote your business; a lobbying voice with government; ways of controlling your cash-flow or you simply desire the implicit endorsement of your company that membership brings, the Association has a way to help.

1. Assistance with cash flow

3. A voice with government

6. Marketing assistance

When times are tough controlling cash flow is crucial to any business and the avoidance of bad debts becomes essential. The BJA’s ‘Confidential Credit Letter’ (CCL) lets members share information about customers who owe them money and provides those who take part with a monthly list of poor payers. All members need to do is to complete a form stating those businesses that have owed them money over 30, 60 and 90 days. If the same company is mentioned independently by three different members, its name will be added to a list circulated, in confidence, to all members of the CCL. “Forewarned is forearmed,” says Simon Rainer. “This is a relatively small industry and many of our members will be supplying the same customers, so it doesn’t take long to build up a picture if someone is not paying their bills. Alerting members in this way means that they can keep a close eye on those to whom they are offering credit and avoid potential bad debts.”

One of the great strengths of any trade association is the voice it provides its members and the BJA has long experience of successfully lobbying institutional bodies on a range of pertinent topics such as the retention of hallmarking, the use of nickel in jewellery and most recently the call from the EC to introduce lead testing in precious jewellery. The Association has excellent contacts in both the UK and EU parliament and CEO Simon Rainer has already spoken out on this topic. He will be keeping members closely informed of how things progress in the months to come.

Simply appearing in the list of members on the BJA’s website enhances a company’s search-engine rating and helps ensure that when potential customers are searching the net, its name will be among the first to appear. The much-visited website – which is currently in the process of being updated to provide even greater benefits – already offers a variety of advertising opportunities and is a great place to post company and product news before a substantial, international jewellery audience.

2. Trade fair discounts Trade fairs are the lifeblood of the jewellery industry and for BJA members the discounts they receive on their stand space at The Jewellery Show at Spring Fair International, Autumn Fair International, International Jewellery London, The Scottish Spring Fair and the British Craft Trade Fair, frequently outweigh the initial cost of their membership fee, effectively providing all other services and benefits for free.

34 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

4. Added endorsement How do you put a price on the endorsement that the BJA logo brings? BJA members are subject to a strict Code of Conduct and all applications for membership are independently vetted to assess their credentials. The logo thus stands for real integrity and is an invaluable marketing tool.

5. Discounted credit card processing Thanks to the BJA’s bulk-buying power, members now receive a hefty discount on their credit and debit card processing fees through The Royal Bank of Scotland’s ‘Streamline’ system. You do not have to bank with RBS to use Streamline and this service is becoming increasingly popular for all BJA members and not simply retailers.

New for 2011 As the UK jewellery industry changes and faces even greater challenges, the BJA continues to grow its membership by listening and responding to member needs. Local Networking – Commencing regional meetings in order that BJA members can network and discuss the issues of the day including security and ethical sourcing. Designer/Makers – A new range of services, mentoring and practical help in aiding the designer maker community to start and grow their businesses. Training – In conjunction with industry leaders, devising new programmes to encourage apprenticeships and the growth of key skills. All the help your business needs If you would like to discover more about the BJA and the wide range of services it provides, contact its membership manager, Diane Thomas on 0121 237 1110 or visit the team on Stand S44 Hall 17 at The Jewellery Show at Spring Fair International.

| BJA Membership Benefits

BJA ups its security services to members Security is a key priority for all in the jewellery industry and the BJA has responded to the concerns of its members with a new comprehensive ‘Security Services’ package that will be launched early this Summer. he new Security Package will include access to a range of different products and services including professional security training for sales representatives and other jewellery staff as well as substantial discounts on a range of specialist security services and a new safety manual and check list. This includes useful hints and tips from some of the UK’s top security experts as well as instructions on safe ‘opening up’ and ‘closing’ procedures that all types of jewellery businesses will find useful for their staff.

Discount from Malca Amit One service which is already operational is being provided by the global, full-service courier company, Malca Amit. The company has a 21-year record of providing a premium personalised service and efficient logistic solutions for the movement of diamonds, jewellery, gold, coins, bank notes and other

valuable items. “Thanks to a recent deal with Malca Amit, we are delighted to be able to offer our members a five per cent discount on all its services,” says the BJA’s CEO, Simon Rainer. As the new international exhibition season begins, one service of particular interest to members will undoubtedly be Malca Amit’s door-to-door delivery service to trade shows. “The recent increase in security at airports and the growing threat of carefully-planned jewellery thefts means that it is really no longer practical for exhibitors to carry their stock to trade exhibitions themselves,” says Ben Dear, Sales and Marketing manager of Malca Amit, UK. “The last thing you want is

for the security guys at the airport to open up your hand-luggage and show your fellow travellers what you are carrying. It definitely puts you at risk. If you intend to put the luggage into the overhead locker you must watch it continuously and if you’re on a long-haul flight that means no sleep. It’s much easier and safer to employ us to move it on your behalf.” Dear says that his company is aware of an increased number of trade fair-related

The last thing you want is for the security guys at the airport to open up your hand-luggage and show your fellow travellers what you are carrying. It definitely puts you at risk.

robberies, especially in the USA, and believes that this service will be particularly appreciated by BJA members. “We can assist with carnets and undertake all customs clearance on our clients’ behalf. We literally take your jewellery from your office to your booth at the show. The same goes for all our services. It’s a corny phrase but we like to think we are a one-stop-shop for moving jewellery safely,” he says. For complete details about the other discounted services offered by Malca Amit, including its popular insured overseas postage service using Fedex, visit the member’s only section of the BJA website at: www.bja.org.uk

36 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

BJA Membership Benefits |

HR & Health and Safety sk any manager or business owner what keeps them awake in the wee small hours and you can guarantee that masterminding their company’s Health and Safety compliance and keeping up to date with the ever-changing and increasingly complicated legal requirements surrounding the employment of staff, will be high on their list of insomnia triggers. Now Peninsula – the largest Employment Law and Health and Safety Consultancy in the UK – is offering BJA members a 10 per cent discount on all the company’s services.“ Companies rarely know everything about the important aspects of human resources and Health and Safety,” says Peninsula’s business development manager Chris Lisle. “It is such a complex and fast changing area that for the non-specialist it is almost impossible to keep up. “Currently we are getting many enquiries about recent changes to Employment Law, especially equality, retirement age and paternity and maternity leave – but there is always something new that managers or sole proprietors need to be aware of.” As Lisle points out, the same is true with regard to Health and Safety, where the ambulance-chasing culture and burgeoning of ‘no-win no-fee’ solicitors are encouraging many workers to try and sue their employers for minor accidents at work, even when the fault may have been their own. In such cases being able to prove ‘due diligence’ and having in place the correct procedures is key to a company’s defence. “Joining Peninsula ensures that your business has in place the correct procedures with regard to human resources and health and safety issues. Should something then go wrong our in-house lawyers can provide the help and advice you need to fight any action against you. Furthermore, should the action go against you in an Employment Tribunal our indemnity scheme will ensure that your expenses and any settlement you may be required to pay are fully covered. Legal expenses for Health & Safety claims are also covered,” says Lisle. Another ‘perk’ of the BJA’s association with Peninsula is the fact that all members now

have access to Peninsula’s free advice line which operates during the working day, but is extended for contracted users, and offers help and support to companies with HR or Health and Safety queries. For more complex problems the member may have a consultation where they can decide if they may need to take the full service and protection. Peninsula’s services are varied, and costs depend upon the number of staff employed and the package chosen, but will generally be around 1-3 per cent of a business’s payroll value. Not a great deal to pay for the peace of mind that their service brings.

All members now have access to Peninsula’s Free advice line which offers help and support to companies with HR or Health and Safety queries.

“Unlike normal lawyers, our in-house legal team does nothing but deal with HR and Health and Safety issues, so we have experienced employees with real specialist knowledge that can make all the difference to our clients,” says Lisle. The BJA’s Lindsey Straughton agrees: “We hope that our members will be as enthusiastic as we are about this new service, which we believe provides the perfect, cost-effective solution to sleepless nights,” she says. Want to find out more about what Peninsula can offer your business? Contact Chris Lisle on 07791 592005, or via email, chris.lisle@peninsula-uk.com Seminars During 2011 the BJA, in conjunction with Peninsula, will be staging a series of introductory seminars for members at venues countrywide.

Making the law work for you Whether employing sales agents, looking to protect your intellectual property, or simply wanting legal advice on day-to-day business issues, the BJA has close links with several different firms of lawyers who can help. The Association works closely with the London lawyers Royds to offer ‘Copywatch’ – its full Intellectual Property Service. This provides a wide range of services including 20 minutes free telephone advice on all copyright matters as well as on-the-spot IP assistance at the major UK trade fairs. The Association’s ‘Design Registration Scheme’ provides members with a cost-effective way to stake claim to their designs and is the perfect way to provide proof of ownership should a dispute occur. Its industry-standard ‘Design Contracts’, which are available at extremely competitive prices, have been created to help protect the interests of parties (those buying and those selling jewellery designs) and are an excellent starting point in any negotiations. The Association also works closely with the Norwich law firm ‘Steeles’ which provides a free telephone legal helpline to members. This firm is particularly expert in providing advice on all matters relating to the employment of sales agents, where carefully drawn contracts are essential to avoid hefty compensation claims from agents following dismissal, redundancy or death. Further details of the full legal services to which BJA members are entitled can be found at: www.bja.org.uk or by calling the BJA office on tel: 0121 237 1110.

The Voice of the Industry 37

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BJA Membership Benefits |

An eye for design The fastest growing area of The British Jewellers’ Association is proving to be the Designer Maker section. Lindsey Straughton outlines its key elements. hanges within the global jewellery industry and the move of UK producers to manufacturing overseas has meant that membership of the British Jewellers’ Association, which was once dominated by large manufacturing businesses, is now very much more diverse. The Association now comprises companies drawn from across the entire jewellery supply chain and an important group is ‘Designer Makers’ – one

Ulrikke Vogt

businesses sufficiently to take unassisted space at the show the following year. Particular success stories have been Beth Gilmour, Alexandra Simpson and Eastern Mystic. The selection procedure for KickStart 2011 has already begun and designer makers who wish to take part can download an application form from the BJA website at www.bja.org.uk Designer members also receive a discount at the popular British Craft Trade Fair in Harrogate and on their entry to the Design Edge website.

CMJ Buying Group

or two-man band businesses where the proprietor designs, makes and frequently markets his or her own jewellery either to wholesalers or directly to the public. At the BJA we believe that it is very much a part of our role to support and nurture new businesses and to help and encourage them to grow and my role within the Association is to organise our various designer-maker initiatives.

KickStart A particular success for the past two years has been ‘KickStart’, a joint initiative with International Jewellery London. The BJA has been responsible for drawing together groups of designer makers, judged to have well-designed and commercially viable products and helping them to exhibit on a stand subsidised by the show organisers, at this important trade event. Without the support of the BJA and Reed Exhibitions, taking part in IJL would simply not be possible for many of the participants. Having a leg up into this international showcase introduces them to buyers they could not meet elsewhere and has given many of them the wherewithal to grow their

There has been success too for companies exhibiting as a part of the BJA group at the Company of Master Jeweller’s buying groups in 2010. While retailers are clearly interested in new ideas and new trends, the last thing they want is to place orders with an inexperienced business which cannot then meet their order. The fact that the BJA has vetted participants for their commerciality and competence gives members of the CMJ the confidence to buy from them. From the other side, our input makes the designer makers aware of what professional jewellery buyers will expect from them and enables them to be properly prepared.

Angie Boothroyd

Week is ‘Treasure’, a design-led retail event where members of the Association receive a discount on their stand space giving them an opportunity to sell directly to the consumer and receive feedback on their designs.

London Jewellery Exports One of the BJA’s most successful recent projects, which gained funding under the ‘Jewellery First’ initiative, was ‘London Jewellery Exports’ whereby the Association provided financial support and advice to over 100 young businesses based in the Greater London area. Although the project

Alexandra Simpson

The BJA is strongly committed to supporting London Jewellery Week – for which I am an ambassador. One of the cornerstones of the

is now completed, we still run the website www.londonjewelleryexports.com promoting London designers; new design-led exporters can apply. There is also some extremely useful background information for designermakers from participants in the project about exhibiting overseas and their experiences of various different countries and different shows. This is a great place to check out some of London’s hottest jewellery design talent and we know the site continues to be widely used by visitors from around the world.

Eastern Mystic

Protecting your designs

London Jewellery Week

This sector offers free registration for 25 designs.

Looking to the future In 2011 The BJA is to carry out an in-depth survey of all its designer maker members to ascertain their specific business and training requirements. Depending upon the results of the survey it will introduce a further range of services and projects to meet their needs.

The Voice of the Industry 39

Katie Rowland

Show and Tell As the anticipation builds for The Jewellery Show at Spring Fair 2011, we bring you the low down on what’s on, what’s new and what to see. ollowing its successful re-launch last year The Jewellery Show is back – and looks bigger and better than ever. Not only are there more exhibitors for 2011 – many of them first-timers to the Birmingham event, but also a host of features and highlights that promise to make the show unmissable. For 2011 innovative design will be taking centre stage. In a new collaborative partnership with the Houlden Group, The Jewellery Show organiser has refreshed and re-edited the Design Quarter in Hall 18. The arrangement will see the Group sponsoring a new Design Quarter Gems feature and launching its inaugural Houlden Group Designers of Excellence Award during the show.

Truth

40 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

Some of the UK’s most talked about jewellery designers will exhibit at The Jewellery Show for the first time under the Gems umbrella, including: Babette Wasserman, Katie Rowland, James Newman, Ana de Costa, Alexander Davis and SHO fine Jewellery. During the show, one or more of these designers will be chosen as recipient of the Excellence Award and the winners will be announced on Monday 7th February at 4pm on the Pandora-sponsored Catwalk. A new headline sponsor of the show this year is Ti Sento Milano which will also be exhibiting for the first time at the fair, along with sister brands Charming and Tirisi. It joins Chamilia, Glasgow-based jeweller P Kennedy (featuring the Truth brand), Bransom Retail Systems and the Company of Master Jewellers which have all returned as major sponsors and exhibitors of The Jewellery Show. “The show is a must for progressive retailers wanting to evaluate the latest trends,” says Bransom’s MD Chris Garland, “and it

The Jewellery Show Preview | gives retailers the opportunity to meet in one place to discuss trade developments.” Once again the Catwalk Café will be at the heart of Halls 17 and 18. Three catwalk shows a day will take place at 12.00, 3.00 and 5.00 and will showcase the very latest jewellery trends supplied by forecasting service WGSN to inspire retailers to buy directional ranges that will ensure a great return on investment. A panel of industry experts will select key pieces from the Design Quarter exhibitors to feature in a scene on the catwalk. Jo Henderson, MD of the forward-thinking retailer Wave; Rebecca Sherwood, purchasing director of award-winning independent Azendi; Stuart Laing, chairman of the Houlden group and Lindsay Straughton of the BJA are among those who will be part of the selection panel. Usefully situated in Halls 19 and 20 will be Fashion Jewellery & Accessories, which will also present (for the first time) a catwalk feature, with three catwalk shows a day (at 11.00am, 1.00pm and 4.00pm) and, as with The Jewellery Show’s Catwalk Café, will also double-up as a seminar theatre with a number of fashion-focused topics on offer. With an eye on visitor comfort and convenience, the show organiser has positioned free water stations at key locations throughout the show, in Halls 3, 4, 6 and 9, and increased both on-site catering facilities and available seating areas. Computerised Product Finding Points will be

Babbette Wasserman

In between the runway shows, a host of industry experts will present seminars on topics ranging from online retailing and shop security to trend tips, specially designed to help retailers improve and grow their business. For example, Douglas Kennedy, the education manager at GIA London, will be offering The Essential Guide to Selling Diamonds; there will be insightful talks on Understanding Google and eCommerce from Intelligent Retail and Alan Townsend will discuss SaferGems, the crime intelligence initiative. Elsewhere in Hall 17, the popular Italian pavilion from the Regione Campagne will

once again feature leading: Italian designers, while the Hong Kong jewellery manufacturers pavilion will ensure that some Far Eastern inspiration infuses the show. These companies join a host of regular exhibitors that between them supply an array of jewellery from pearls, silver, platinum, gold and palladium, to precious engagement rings, wedding bands, watches, charm bracelets and beads. Be sure to check out Brown & Newirth which will be revealing a new designer-led wedding, engagement and eternity ring collection with a well-known emerging design talent.

The Voice of the Industry 41

| The Jewellery Show Preview placed at the entrances to each hall and the free Circle Line Bus Service will operate throughout the show, with drop off points outside Halls 1, 2, 9, 10, 11, 6/20, the main Piazza entrance and The Jewellery Show. Repeating an extremely popular initiative launched at Spring Fair 2010 – as an added incentive to get retailers to the show in good time – early bird visitors will also be offered free pastries to help get them in the mood for some serious shopping. Hungry buyers will get further light refreshment in the link between Halls 5 and 9, where apples will be given away.

Spring Fair 2011 – floor plans

Charmian Beaton

In Hall 20, located alongside the complementary Gifts and Fashion Accessories & Jewellery areas, there will be a new rest and relaxation area called Revive. Buyers can enjoy a soothing massage followed by a healthy fruit smoothie, or just put their feet for a while. And finally (for what would a show be without a little extra curricular activity?) – the organiser is hosting a buyers’ party at The Jam House in Birmingham’s famous Jewellery Quarter, on the Monday evening. For further information email marketing manager Alexia Emmerson at: I alexia.emmerson@emap.com

Spring Fair/The Jewellery Show 2011 – useful information • The Jewellery Show at Spring Fair International will be held at NEC, Birmingham, 6th-10th February, 2011 • The Jewellery Show has 400 exhibitors showing around 40,000 new product launches • The refreshed Design Quarter in Hall 18 will showcase 25 leading designer-makers

1 2 3 4

KEY The Design Quarter Pandora Catwalk Cafe Press Office VIP Seasons Club Product Finding Points Circle Line Bus Stops Fast Track Entrance – Badge Holders only

42 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

• Opening times: 6th Feb: 09.00-18.00; 7th Feb: 09.00-18.00; 8th Feb: 09.00-18.00; 9th Feb: 09.00-18.00; 10th Feb: 09.00-16.00 • The NEC is easily reached by rail or road, with the NEC served by Birmingham International. There are 20,000 free parking places with regular shuttle buses to and from the show. For further information on travel as well as show details visit: www.thejewelleryshow.com

| The Jewellery Show Preview

Newcomers to The Jewellery Show

Ti Sento Milano StepByStep The Swiss-designed collection of handcrafted, contemporary jewellery by StepByStep includes necklaces, bracelets and earrings using rhodium, Tomback – a copper alloy and refined aluminium – as well as rubber. The palette remains subtle and minimal (gold, silver, red and black) but with the newer additions of camel and charcoal. (Hall 17, Stand L10)

Missoma Known for its stylised, contemporary designs and use of vibrant colour, the design brand Missoma is now in partnership with IBB and will be showcasing its new collection for the first time at the Jewellery Show. Alongside the 18ct gold vermeil jewellery for which it is known, Missoma will be launching its first ever range of sterling silver pieces to target a younger audience. And sitting alongside the expected bold statement pieces, will be a line of more everyday jewellery such as friendship bracelets, stackable rings and pendants. (Hall 17/18, Stand P30/Q30)

Hoxton London IBB London will be showing the new Hoxton London men’s jewellery collection, which comprises sterling silver rings, necklaces, cufflinks and accessories, ranging from RRP £80 - £335. The rhodium plated pieces, designed by Nicholas Kovacs, are combined with leathers and gemstones for an elegant yet contemporary look. (Hall 17-18, Stand P30/Q30)

44 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

Nature takes centre stage in the new Aqua collection by Ti Sento, with underwater themes being particularly inspirational: Stardust, Water Bubbles, Water Drop and Coral being the key stories. Organic shapes have been created using rhodium plated sterling silver combined with hand set stones and vibrant colour for delicate, feminine pieces. (Hall 17, Stand T28)

Amadora Amadora is a brand new name in the UK jewellery trade, the enterprise of Hatton Garden fine jewellery maker Kevin Charles and his wife Lisa, an expert stone dealer and diamond grader. They believe that there is a demand for carefully crafted and stylish ‘occasion’ jewellery at a reasonable price level and so have created this stylish and subtly coloured collection, all in sterling silver and European cut cubic zirconium in black, champagne, white, pink, olive peridot, lavender and violet amethyst. (Hall 17, Stand K10)

The Jewellery Show Preview |

Sho Jewellery The Design Quarter Gems section of the show is providing the platform for Sho to launch Splash, a range of new designs in the Mari collection. The range of pendants, earrings, rings and a bangle take their inspiration from the sea with splashes of gemstone colour on carved droplets. Also new is the Clementina range of statement cocktail rings in silver and silver vermeil with a central stone feature. (Hall 18, Stand DQ43)

match your Colour

Rachel Galley Since graduation Rachel Galley has worked for some of the most prestigious brands in the luxury jewellery market, including Links Of London, Stephen Webster and Boodles, before setting up her own business three years ago in a studio at Cockpits Arts. With fans such as Lily Allen and actress Juliette Lewis, Rachelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jewellery draws inspiration from her many exotic travels around the globe, then she adds her own innovative twist with sparkly gems, hidden compartments, enabling the wearer to add personal keepsakes and treasures to collections. (Hall 18, Stand DQ02)

Tel: 07884 002312 mail@5c-group.com - www.5c-group.com

The Voice of the Industry 45

Fiorelli Silverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new Spring Collection features beautifully crafted pieces at affordable prices. Visit us at the Spring Fair: Hall 18, Stand G20/H21 or call our sales team for an exclusive preview.

To become an authorised stockist, contact Sales on T: 01376 532 000 E: sales@geckojewellery.com

The Jewellery Show Preview | T

The Look Book A roundup of some of the established brands and designers who will be revealing their latest collections at The Jewellery Show.

Not just for Valentine’s Day – Pandora has added a range of jewellery that imparts a personal message of love for any day of the year. Included in the line are delicate heart pendants in silver and 14ct gold, set with pink zirconias and white diamonds, which are available for necklaces and bracelets. The line also includes a range of coordinating rings. (Hall 17, Stand L28/M29)

Gecko

In Gecko’s new Elements Gold collection the Hummingbird pendant and earrings set is crafted in 9ct gold and has encapsulated the tiny creature mid flight as it hovers over a flower – perhaps one from the new Fiorelli Silver Blossom range of rhodiumplated 925 silver pieces. The contemporary reworking of a traditional jewellery form sees white enamel flowers worked with cubic zirconia for delicate pendants and earrings. (Hall 18, Stand G20/H21)

Nomination

Pandora

The new Love collection from Nomination features a heart-within-a-heart motif for necklaces, bracelets and earrings in stainless steel and highlighted with cubic zirconia. (Hall 18, Stand G21)

Muru

The new collection from Muru features an explosion of colour with the introduction of more gemstones, coloured enamel designs and friendship bracelets in a variety of nude and pastel shades. New stones to be introduced include blue and pink chalcedony, rhodonite, lapis lazuli and goldstone. The collection also includes a selection of sculptural plain silver designs including bows and flowers. (Hall 18, Stand B30)

The Voice of the Industry 47

| The Jewellery Show Preview T

The Look Book

Donns

Kleshna

Inspired by the way light dances through hanging crystals Kleshna has created Prism, a number of colourful new ready-to-wear and couture pieces. The range includes simple single strands with magnetic clasps to trio bracelets, colour blend swag necklaces and gyroscopic and colour graded hoop earrings. (Hall 18, Stand D39)

The Donns ‘princess-inspired’ collection for Disney will be launched at The Jewellery Show. Based on favourite Disney Princess characters – Ariel, Aurora, Sleeping Beauty, Belle, Cinderella, Jasmine and Snow White – the charms are crafted in silver with a diamond, to be suspended from a bracelet or necklace. (Hall 17, Stand L101)

Dower & Hall

So Jewellery

So Jewellery’s collection of Spheres Pendants will see some new additions to the range – silver and gold Spheres Earrings. Each piece of jewellery has an anti-tarnish finish to promote a high shine and delay tarnishing and the gold earrings are finished with a thick three-micron plating. Each piece is presented in So Jewellery’s trademark white box with magnetic clasp with care instructions to ensure lasting customer satisfaction. (Hall 18, Stand F29)

The new JWman collection from Goldmajor includes a number of new and very contemporary styles of bracelets, rings, pendants and cufflinks. Alongside the expected silver and amber pieces, the company will also be showing new beads, pearls and charms, as well as the vintage-inspired marcasite collection. (Hall 18, Stand F30/G31)

48 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

These stackable rings are from the Sparkler collection of pavé set diamonds in black and white set into 18ct white, yellow and black rhodium plated gold. Jewelled pendants and hooped earrings are also available in the line. (Hall 18, Stand DQ130)

Domino

Goldmajor

Appropriately enough, wedding rings will be the big new story at Domino this season, with a new and much extended collection being launched. Following research into wedding ring trends, the collection – designed by the in-house team – will include many new options, mainly in white metals, including some more dramatic men’s styles. (Hall 17, Stand N40)

| The Jewellery Show Preview

The prize-winning ‘Cuffs’ on the Catwalk A ‘must-see’ at this year’s Jewellery Show are the winning designs in the BJA’s annual competition. The cuffs will feature three times each day on the Pandora Café Catwalk. Abigail Keefe

Yu Lan Burkmar’s winning cuff

u Lan Burkmar of Burkmar Jewellery and Jenny Hattersely of Dark Horse Ornament won the competition which is sponsored by The Jewellery Show and the British Jewellery Giftware and Finishing Federation (BJGF Federation). This year’s award was for innovative and commercial designs for cuffs and there were two separate categories: ‘Precious Jewellery Cuffs’, which was won by Burkmar, and ‘Fashion Jewellery Cuffs' for which Dark Horse took the honours. The runners-up were Rachel Galley of Rachel Galley Jewellery and Abigail Keefe of Abi-K.

Jenny Hattersley

50 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

Yu Lan Burkmar’s ‘Ocean Wave Bangle’ produced in 18ct yellow gold drew praise from the judges for its highly unusual corrugated’ effect, which makes the design both strong and flexible. The finely beaten gold has the added advantage, at a time when precious metal prices are at an all time high, of making the piece relatively light and thus extremely competitively priced with a RRP of around £3,000. There was praise too for Jenny Hattersley’s ‘Glint’ Cuff which the judges found to be very much on-trend. This design uses premium leather with glass embellishments from an antique chandelier sewn on to it, to create an understated glamour that is extremely wearable. Simple and easy-to-use, press-stud fastenings in gunmetal grey complete the design. The fact that some of the elements are recycled give this cuff added ‘green’ credentials. The RRP is £174. Recycled materials are also a feature of the running-up design in the Non-Precious Cuff category for which Abigail Keefe used vintage Japanese kimono silk as the basis of her colourful ‘Kouture’ cuff. The silk is combined with stainless-steel mesh, leather and a simple bronze magnetic fastening to create a design that is simultaneously stylish, fashionable and eye-catching. Matching

clutch bags are also available giving added depth to the product range. The RRP for the cuff is £165. The ‘Enkai’ Cuff by Rachel Galley, which was the runner-up in the Precious Jewellery category, is in sterling silver and incorporates the bold lattice texture which is the signature of all Galley’s work. The lattice-work sparkles like diamonds and makes the cuff a perfect choice for those wishing to make a statement. The cuff, which has a RRP of £699, can be resized to fit each particular customer’s wrist. The judges in this year’s competition were the Birmingham jewellery designer and retailer, James Newman; journalist James Knowles; jewellery writer Mary Brittain: Julie Driscoll of The Jewellery Show at Spring Fair International and Lindsey Straughton of the British Jewellers’ Rachel Galley

Association. Krys Zalewska, chief executive of the BJGF Federation was also present. “We were delighted with both the quantity and the quality of entries for this year’s competition,” says Straughton. “It was a hard-won fight in both categories but I believe we have some truly worthy winners. I hope as many people as possible will take the opportunity to see these eye-catching and highly commercial designs on the catwalk at The Jewellery Show.”

Be part of the launch of CounterSketch Studio Version 2.0 & Matrix Version 7 at Spring Fair NEC Hall

Gemvision Europe is bringing exciting new versions of two award-winning bespoke design software solutions to Spring Fair 2011. CounterSketch Studio 2.0 represents a new way for UK retailers to offer a bespoke design service in their stores and receive a ﬁnished piece in 14 days or less. Matrix 7 will also be introduced at Spring Fair featuring new organic modeling functionality for easy creation of ﬂowing designs and the most advanced render engine ever developed for jewellery.

17 Stand P48

O R I G I N A L

Jade

•

Pearl O N

•

Coral

S I LV E R

D E S I G N S

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Agate A N D

•

I N

Gemstones

G O L D

See the latest Ping Ping Jewellery collections at: The Jewellery Show, Spring Fair NEC 2011, Hall 18 Stand J40 Ping Ping Jewellery, PO Box 2080, Amesbury SP4 7WS Tel: 01980 625705 Email: info@pingping.co.uk Web: www.pingping.co.uk

4 Springwell Court Holbeck, Leeds LS12 1AL, UK phone 0113 3899710 fax 0113 3899720 email gveurope@gemvision.com web www.gemvision.com

The Voice of the Industry 51

| Feature

the

Jeweller Brand Profile 5c In uncertain times does it make most sense to focus on what you know best or to seek new directions and diversify? Antwerpbased 5c Jewelry is one brand that is successfully doing both. espite the sparkle and razzmatazz associated with the stones themselves, the diamond trading business is, of course, a pretty traditional and very serious one. With the values involved, how could it be otherwise? For one company though, adding jewellery to the equation and then moving things steadily and judiciously forward to meet the demands of a shifting market, has added the element of fun to the mix. Today, the Antwerp-based 5c Group is recognised globally not just for its sourcing and trading of rough and polished diamonds but, more recently, for its own premium gold and diamond jewellery collections and its silver and gemstone fashion jewellery brand – 5c Jewelry and Just J respectively. “Having started by doing a lot of contract manufacturing for brands and multiple retailers around Europe, we then decided also to promote our own collections and in particular to independent retailers,” says Gert-Jan Beukenkamp, who is the general manager of the Group’s jewellery division in Europe and who joined the company ten years’ ago. “For the contract work, the priceto-quality ratio is all-important, while the design remains classically safe and simple – lots of solitaire rings and wedding bands. For our own collections we wanted to make diamond jewellery that was different, so we changed the ingredients; we started using coloured diamonds.”

52 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

Gert-Jan Beukenkamp

This was not a recipe for excessive and startling new directions, however, but more of a subtle step-change for 5c. “Our designs are still not innovative, but by mixing and matching what works, we’ve added a little edge and creativity,” Beukenkamp explains. “Jewellers want to sell jewellery – they don’t want to be a gallery.” With the advantage of its own jewellery production plants in China and India, there is obviously huge scope for 5c to be costefficient – an element that is as important as ever (increased design awareness has not altered this particular priority). Beukenkamp is unapologetic on the issue of Far Eastern

manufacture: “The cost benefits are huge in China,” he says. “If we didn’t do it, someone else would – it’s an illusion to think that you can still do the labour-intensive production in Europe. But our number one priority now is quality and we have improved this to keep up with the European market. If you add ‘affordable’ to quality then you have the perfect match!” While the design studio for 5c Jewelry is situated in Hong Kong and the main factories are in Shanghai and Panyu in China, the teams there work very closely with the management team in Antwerp to create collections that work for the whole global market. In addition, the more specialised commissions are carried out in the company’s smaller workshops in Paris and Antwerp. The multinational group is affiliated with the Jasani Group in Mumbai, the 5c Group having been formed in Antwerp in 1975 by Kirit Jasani, a third generation diamantaire from India. Today the much-expanded and diversified Group is led by his two sons, Adit and Anuj Jasani.

Feature | So, why 5c? Well, to start with, the reference to carat, clarity, colour and cut is a happy coincidence – the company’s original name was Five Cee and was later abbreviated to 5c for a more contemporary feel. And as for the fifth ‘c’, that, says Beukenkamp, can represent a number of positive attributes: confidence, care, competitive value, commitment, customer

our stones and jewellery are ethically sourced – and this is the case whether the consumer or retailer asks for it or not.” Possibly thanks to the sentiments involved, one area that has seen an increased call for conflict-free diamonds is wedding jewellery and as far as 5c Jewelry is concerned the bridal market has managed and is continuing to ride the economic downturn.

Back in the comfort zone of diamonds however, the company is continuing to push – albeit gently – at the boundaries. This year the coloured stone jewellery collection is broadening to include grey diamonds, used together with black gold (white gold with black rhodium). “They look quite funky and we’ve noticed that it is in line with Swarovski’s trend report which emphasizes smoky greys – a coincidence, but a good affirmation of the trend,” says Beukenkamp. Rings incorporating these grey shimmer stones – which look especially effective when grouped together – will retail from around £700. Another jewellery story that Beukenkamp predicts will gain momentum for 2011 is that of hand-crafted and vintage (or deliberately aged) looks; pieces that might be modern in design but given a period feel with the use of rose-cut diamonds and milgraining for instance. So, another quietly fashionable step in the right direction for 5c.

“We’re proud to say that our stones and jewellery are ethically sourced – and this is the case whether the consumer or retailer asks for it or not.” service, conflict-free… Of all these, it is the conflict-free principle that 5c has recognised as being a major – and more recent – priority with consumers. “Everything now is about being green and socially-aware,” he says. “Apart from the Blood Diamonds film, which meant that the public learnt about conflict stones, the flow of information through the internet ensures that everyone is more educated about diamonds than they were in the past. So jewellers also have to keep more in line with these things. We’re proud to say that

The demand for engagement, wedding and commitment rings is as high as it ever was, says Beukenkamp… and this is in spite of the continuing rise in the price of gold. “And it’s the same with diamonds,” he adds. “Their price has more than recovered since the start of the economic crisis – which makes things difficult. It’s hard to convey this to the retailer – they don’t always believe you. “During the recession it is very important to stay low on stock; to keep liquid and that is the same for everyone in the pipeline – keep light and flexible.” On the other hand, he points on that the decline in business for many jewellers has not been so bad, as customers have been spending on other types of jewellery. “It’s thanks to Pandora, which has created a new area of interest,” he maintains. Just J is one such area. “During the crisis we started with something else – and it’s kept its momentum,” he says. “And retailers all want add-ons; something that will bring new clients (especially the new generation of jewellery buyers) into the shop. Just J was very new for us. It was an eye-opener and a huge learning curve.”

The Voice of the Industry 53

11 4th _ 7th SEPTEMBER EARLS COURT LONDON

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Legal Jeweller |

Beware of Copycats Imitation is said to be the best form of flattery… However, few designers would want someone else to reap reward from their creative ideas and hard work. At the same time, jewellery retailers can be liable for buying and selling infringing designs, even if they do so unwittingly. Intellectual property lawyer Sarah Hadland of Boyes Turner looks at the cornerstones of how both retailers and designers can protect their business as well as some of the general terms of trade between sellers and buyers.

Buying-in a design Many jewellers will buy in designs from a third party; this might be a general supplier or an individual artist. There are a few key things to look out for when buying in designs, both in relation to intellectual property rights and general commercial considerations. Assignment/Licence First, do you want to own the design exclusively so that the supplier or artist cannot sell it to another jeweller? If so, the best solution is to take an assignment of all rights in the design, which will transfer ownership of the rights. If a piece has been specially commissioned there are rules which govern who owns the different rights arising – the commissioner or the artist. However, as these rules differ between design right and copyright, it is always advisable to ensure that the parties sign a written agreement which clearly sets out their intentions. If the supplier or artist is to retain the rights, the buyer needs to ensure that the licence granted to it is broad enough. For example, the buyer might want to be able to have additional copies made by a different manufacturer without further reference to the supplier. Infringement It is possible that a supplier might sell a design which actually belongs to a third party, without that third party’s consent – the supplier may be unaware that it is dealing in a design which has been copied. For example, if a design house such as Bulgari produces a fashionable new design, others

are likely to want to capture the ‘look’. Sometimes, they may sail too close to the wind and copy the Bulgari design to the extent that the copy infringes. Unfortunately, the buyer can be liable for dealing in an infringing design, even though it did not know about it. Depending on the relationship with the supplier, a buyer might want to include in the terms of business a clause under which the supplier warrants that the designs supplied do not infringe the rights of any third party and, possibly, another clause indemnifying the buyer in respect of any claims or legal proceedings arising out of an infringement, should it occur. This will not prevent the claimant from taking action against the buyer, but it does mean that the buyer can recover its losses from the supplier (provided the supplier is good for the money).

The terms on which each buyer and supplier trade will differ depending on their relationship and many relationships will work on an informal basis. However, I have picked out a few other non-IP related issues which it can be useful to consider. Repairs Sometimes, a piece of jewellery might be faulty. For example, a loose setting will result in a lost diamond. The jeweller buying the design might want to include in the terms between it and the supplier an obligation whereby, if a customer brings back a faulty piece of jewellery, it will be repaired using materials no less valuable than those originally included in the piece, at the supplier’s cost. Passing of risk If jewellery is to be delivered by the supplier to the jeweller, the parties need to be clear about who bears the risk of it being lost in transit. Often, the supplier/artist will bear the risk until the jewellery has been delivered to the agreed destination, or transferred into the hands of the buyer’s own courier. Thereafter, the buyer will bear the risk. The importance of this is that the parties can each ensure that their insurance covers them for the whole of the time they are deemed to bear the risk.

Pieces from Sheila Fleet’s Flagstone collection and the original design concept sketches

The Voice of the Industry 55

| Legal Jeweller Rights in Jewellery Designs When an artist creates a new piece of jewellery, the design is likely to be original. Although it may incorporate features from, say, typical Victorian designs, it might combine them in such a way as to create a piece of jewellery which is unique. This gives rise to a raft of intellectual property rights, some of which can be registered. For the purpose of this article, we will assume that designs are created in the UK by a UK citizen. However, designs created elsewhere or by a non-UK citizen can also benefit from some of the rights set out below.

countries with one filing (the Hague System). Once registered, the design will be protected in all of the designated countries for a period of up to 25 years. Copyright A piece of jewellery may also be protected by copyright as a work of artistic craftsmanship. If the piece is a one-off, the term of copyright is life of the author/creator plus 70 years. If the piece is to be commercially produced this may limit the term of copyright to 25 years. It is important to note that UK design right and copyright cannot co-exist. The piece will be deemed to attract one or the other. However, there are certain advantages to claiming copyright as an artistic work. These include the longer terms of protection available and the international treaties which enable a copyright owner to enforce his or

Threats Certain rights are subject to threats provisions. This means that if the owner of the right makes a threat of proceedings for infringement of that right, and that threat is unjustified, the person threatened may bring a claim against the person who made the threat. This can include a claim for an injunction, costs and damages. Rights owners must be very careful when asserting their rights against a potential infringer. Keeping Records In any case where the existence of copyright or design right in a piece of jewellery is to be examined, it is extremely helpful if the documents which were generated when it was designed are available. This would include sketches, CAD drawings, instructions to suppliers etc. Often these documents are dated and signed by the designer.

It is extremely helpful if the documents which were generated when it was designed are available. This would include sketches, CAD drawings, instructions to suppliers etc. Often these documents are dated and signed by the designer. Design Right In law, where a design is new – compared to existing designs – it automatically attracts a variety of design rights. Unregistered UK design right confers protection for a period of 15 years. If, within five years of its being created the design is made commercially available, the right lasts for 10 years from the end of the year in which it was first made available. This right only protects the shape of the piece. It will not protect any ‘surface decoration’ such as a painted pattern. The design will also automatically attract unregistered Community design right. This lasts for three years from the date on which it was first made available within the Community – which is basically when it was first put on sale. The Community design right protects surface decoration as well as shape, including colour, texture, the material(s) from which the piece is made and ornamentation. It is also possible to register a design. This can be done in the UK only, or a Communitywide right can be obtained. There is also a system through which individual registrations can be achieved in a number of different

56 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

her right in a number of countries around the world, even though the work was created in the UK, by a UK citizen. The rules about whether a work is designated a UK unregistered design or work of artistic craftsmanship are too complex for this feature, but they need to be considered where a case of infringement arises and the owner wishes to assert the strongest rights against the infringer. Ring CAD design (above) and the finished piece from Rowan Davis Jewellery Ltd

When taking an assignment of rights in a design it is worth asking the designer for these documents as well. Should a dispute arise, they will help to support a claim, especially if the designer is no longer available to provide a witness statement.

Conclusion Jewellery is protected by a raft of intellectual property rights, some of which come into existence without any formal steps having to be taken by the designer. This is very positive for designers and buyers alike but it also means that some care needs to be taken to ensure that the rights are owned by the correct person and that appropriate safeguards are incorporated into any dealings in the design. Advice offered here is for general guidance only and is not a substitute for taking specific legal advice on an individual basis. You can contact Sarah Hadland at Boyes Turner by telephone: 0118 952 7142, email her at shadland@boyesturner.com or visit the website at www.boyesturner.com for I further information.

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| Ethical Jeweller

The Soul of Gold A celebration of the official launch of certified Fairtrade Fairmined Gold – Valentine’s Day 2011. ell it’s a reality now. After all the talk, all the meetings, all the work, all the dreaming, all the convincing, all the arguing, all the believers and disbelievers, it is official: Valentine’s Day 2011 will be the launch of the world’s first certified Fairtrade Fairmined gold supply to the world. If you will excuse the slight indulgence at this point, but I am very proud of what we have achieved on behalf of the mining community and the jewellery trade. It is not an understatement to say that this project has been quite literally ground breaking and truly revolutionary.

in life – both straightforward and complicated at the same time. Firstly, small-scale miners make up the huge majority of people in the gold business and because of the iniquity of how the gold trade is structured, they are also the people who are not benefiting from the rising gold prices and remain bound to their poverty. The social and economic injustices that this forgotten majority live with cannot be imagined. Personally I have witnessed some of the most barbaric abuses of people and the planet in the name of gold and yet behind each of these abuses is a person

No longer does the jeweller have to avoid talking about the source because it is embarrassing and ugly. Gold jewellery as we all know is a beautiful thing and our jewellery deserves the best sources for our collective creative genius. Conceptualising an idea is easy, the delivery of that idea is not and the beauty of Fairtrade Fairmined Gold is that it will be the small miners, the jewellers and the consumers who will benefit from this launch. Yet the reasons why we need Fairtrade Fairmined Gold is like many things

58 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

whose need to survive keeps the spark of life alive and whose dignity has the right to be respected. It is this spark of hope that has given life to the possibility of change in the gold trade. Secondly, the environment is not a passive player in this business. Extraction industries

are the most polluting in the world and the most environmentally devastating to our planet. As jewellers we cannot escape this reality; neither of course can we escape the fact that mining will not stop nor that the demand for jewellery will dry up. Treating the environment as an active participant in our trade is one of the key ingredients that will distinguish between responsible miners and jewellers and those who are not. Thirdly, the current gold supply chain is not transparent or traceable. This is perhaps the most dangerous reputational threat our industry faces. Until now, as a jeweller you simply do not know where your gold may have come from. You have not been given the opportunity to tell your customer if they ask, if the gold has come from a reputable and well-managed source, or from a mine either large or small that is a menace to humanity. This ‘mine to market’ truth will need constant reinforcing in the mind of the jewellery buying public to ensure that the source of our product is firmly and permanently linked to the jewellery trade again. It is only the re-establishment of this link that will give us the 100 per cent confidence that we as jewellers need to ensure our product is not corrupted by unethical practice.

Gold nuggets (Cred Jewellery)

The future has changed However this is not a story of what is wrong; this is a story of what has been achieved. The future has changed. Fairtrade Fairmined Gold demonstrates what is possible when people and communities come together from different backgrounds, nationalities, and ethnicities. Through their hard work, dedication and, most of all, their set of shared values, they have demonstrated against all the odds that a new future is possible. I distinctly remember sitting in a small meeting room in Quito, Ecuador with a group of miners from Colombia, Peru, Bolivia and

Ethical Jeweller | Mongolia when we set up the Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM) in 2004/5 and dreaming about what we wanted to achieve. • A dream of responsible small-scale miners, who would own the means of production over their own resources and land. • A supply chain that linked the miner to the jeweller, enabling the integrity of the product to be maintained. • A economic relationship that allowed the miners to get the true value of their gold, rather than suffering at the hands of dishonest traders and dealers. • Entire communities who would benefit from this more profitable trade by investing into health care, better education and job creation for young people thereby bringing sustainable hope to their lives.

for it. No longer does gold have to be reduced to an economic unit or currency by the witchcraft of economists and hedge fund managers. No longer does the jeweller have to avoid talking about the source because it is embarrassing and ugly. Gold jewellery as we all know is a beautiful thing and our jewellery deserves the best sources for our collective creative genius. Over the last year I have been working with the Fairtrade Foundation in London on how we introduce Fairtrade Fairmined Gold into the UK industry and beyond. When I started at the beginning of 2010 I was nervous of the response we would get from the wider UK trade, especially given the restrictions we would face on volume. I need not have been concerned. I can say the industry in this country has been very positive in its adoption. From bullion houses,

From bullion houses, casters, chain makers, jewellers and designers, everyone has embraced the opportunity and recognised that working with a verifiable clean, certified product is the best way to produce jewellery. •

A supply of gold to jewellers that would enhance the product story and be a source of pride to the jewellery community. • A gold product that enhanced the local environment and placed ecological issues at the very heart of production. The soul of gold is fair trade and this Fairtrade Fairmined opportunity puts the heart and dignity back into our gold supply chain. No longer does gold have to be an anonymous commodity divorced from its source and the hand of the miner who dug

casters, chain makers, jewellers and designers, everyone has embraced the opportunity and recognised that working with a verifiable clean, certified product is the best way to produce jewellery. But it is not only in the UK that the industry has picked up on the new rhythm that is sounding. Ireland and Canada will be launching at the same time as the UK and already France, Switzerland, USA, Netherlands, Finland and the other Nordic counties are also planning to introduce Fairtrade Fairmined Gold into their respective Fairtrade markets. So those

Peruvian Fairtrade and Fairmined gold miners in the Sotrami mine

with an eye to the future and future market opportunities will see Fairtrade Fairmined Gold jewellery is at the beginning of its growth curve both nationally and internationally.

The Fairtrade Fairmined dual stamp One other thing to mention is that to accompany the launch of the gold itself, there will also be the introduction of a Fairtrade Fairmined stamp. A special note of thanks needs to go to the team at the Birmingham Assay Office which has worked with the team at Fairtrade to see the introduction of this. Very simply if you are a license holder for the dual stamp you will be able to have your jewellery stamped at any of the four assay offices in the UK with the mark that denotes that your jewellery has been made using certified gold.

How to get involved To enquire about how to get involved with this unique opportunity and become a registered license holder and be able to sell certified Fairtrade Gold you will need to contact Victoria Waugh at the Fairtrade Foundation by email: gold@fairtrade.org.uk or call 0207 440 7674. The soul of gold has at last found its voice through the fairtrade movement. The source of our gold has finally been reconciled to its long lost lover: the jeweller’s bench and the conscious consumer. The best gold story in the world is now running and its destination is every high street in the UK. In doing so it will bring tangible benefits over the long term to the millions of marginalised miners in our world. The Fairtrade story has only just begun in jewellery – next stop, diamonds… Greg Valerio is a jeweller and activist. For private commissions please email him at: greg@gregvalerio.com

The Voice of the Industry 59

| Security Update ecent press reports featured at least two incidents where members of the public have intervened to detain alleged robbers. In the latest, smash and grab raiders launched an attack on Fraser Hart’s City of London branch, but were foiled by a group of Christmas shoppers. Four men on two stolen motorcycles roared into One New Change shopping centre near St Paul’s

pected of a series of distraction thefts the length and breadth of the country. The thefts started in Lincolnshire back in July and have been linked with other offences in Scotland, the South East, Midlands, North West, South West and Wales. During this period SaferGems has regularly circulated alerts containing excellent images provided by members and the police.

Secure in the

knowledge... While news of attacks on jewellery shops appear on an almost weekly basis, it’s heartening to note that the industry is fighting back. Michael Hoare brings us up to speed on the sterling work of SaferGems. on 10th December. Armed, allegedly, with sledgehammers, two of the gang smashed their way through the front door of the store before grabbing handfuls of watches. However, while they were inside, two men – both believed to be passers-by – held the store’s door shut to prevent the alleged robbers escaping, before other members of the public joined in. They included a woman, who suffered blows to the face, and security guards who managed to restrain and unmask two of the robbers. These dramatic events only served to highlight the need for vigilance in the run up to Christmas. Most incidents of theft aren’t so striking, nor do the public necessarily intervene, but as SaferGems alerts continuously remind us, there are still robbers, fraudsters, and distraction thieves about their business. The good news is that because of SaferGems alerts criminal gangs have been disrupted and arrests made. Numerous reports to our control room confirm that armed with a SaferGems alert, members have been able to recognise alleged criminals and deny them access to their stores. As an example, for some months SaferGems has been working with the police to identify a group of Eastern European men and women, who are sus-

60 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

However, on Thursday, 16th December, a 27 year old male and 21 year old female, believed to be of an Eastern European background, were arrested by police in Cheltenham, Gloucestershire after quickthinking jeweller Nigel Spurway recognised the pair from a SaferGems alert and locked them in a neighbouring shop. When the police arrived Mr. Spurway showed the officers the alert and the two were arrested in connection with a theft from a jewellers shop in Hereford earlier in the month. Both were released on bail to report to Guildford Police on 19th January in connection with other offences highlighted in SaferGems alerts.

Successful liaison sees distraction team sentenced In March 2010 SaferGems circulated an alert to members requesting information about the theft of jewellery from a store in Aldershot, Hampshire. The incident involved three suspects, two of whom distracted staff while a third stole jewellery. The first incident took place on the 19th February 2010 and, as a result of the SaferGems alert, further incidents were identified in Sussex. After a police investigation all three suspects were charged with conspiracy to steal from jewellery stores between 19th

February 2010 and 3rd March 2010 across two counties. As a result, on 10th November 2010 three people pleaded guilty at Winchester Crown Court to conspiracy to steal across Hampshire and Sussex. One male was sentenced to thirty-three months in custody, while a male and female acting as a couple received ten and twelve month sentences suspended for two years. SaferGems is delighted to have assisted police with their investigations and bringing the suspects to justice.

More to come Reports continue to flood in and over fifty incidents and attacks per month were notified to the control room at the close of the year; which is consistent with recent levels. One of the principal features of the initiative is its ability to bring patterns of offending to the attention of the police. Satisfyingly, SaferGems information continues to result in arrests and charges. Once reporting restrictions have been lifted I hope to be able to bring you news of prison sentences as a result.

Jenny Packham (photo by Ellen Von Unwerth)

just because Wills popped the question; or choosing a blue sapphire just like Di’s. Unthinkable. But on the other hand, taking a – frankly – bah humbug attitude to the royal nuptials could mean missing a trick, or a least the point. For a start, the national marriage statistics could do with a bit of a boost. Figures for the last two years aren’t due to be released for a few weeks yet, but based on those for 2008, the institution isn’t looking too popular. Anyone with a vested interest could use a little romance in the air. Cynics may argue differently, but I bet that come 2013 we’ll be looking at a peak in the marriage graph for 2011. And if I’m wrong? Well, in the face of general financial gloom, it’s nice to have something else, something positive, to think about. “The royal wedding has already had a significant impact, if only because everyone has been talking about jewellery and ‘the ring’,” says Dickie Warrender, co-owner of W&W. “Both royal engagements are wonderful news and as with any royal engagement, will both have an effect on the engagement rings we sell over the coming months.” There you go – that’s the spirit! A bumper sales opportunity has been handed to the industry so why not make the most of it? No need to go the whole Al Fayed way

One Ring

to bind them... Is the Royal Big Day set to have a significant impact on the jewellery business? Whether you believe so or not, it’s clear that wedding jewellery – flying in the face of fiscal woes – is doing rather nicely, reports Belinda Morris.

ypical. You wait years for a decent royal wedding and then what happens? You get two coming along within the space of a few months. Ok, so only one of them is going to have all the pomp and circumstance, bells and whistles; only one will prompt street parties and a public holiday. Still, two royal weddings! We like. Well, most of us do.

62 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

There are those among us – I know, because they’ve told me – for whom the 29th April 2011 will be just another Friday, signifying very little. A royal wedding? And…? They don’t anticipate the event making much of an impact on their business. Their customers, too cool for school, wouldn’t dream of choosing to get married this year

Domino

with lifesize portraits of the happy couple, or buy-one-get-a-commemorative mug free offers – just try and catch the romantic and positive mood. “We are very confident and expect an uptake on wedding ring sales as a result of the royal wedding,” says Gary Sinclair of PH Rings. “Couples do like to look back years

Feature | later and say ’that was the same year that we got married’.” Lee Ruben of Gemex agrees. “The wedding will definitely have an impact on sales. Some couples will aim to even arrange their special day on the same date as the royal wedding.” What? And miss the whole thing on the telly? Barry Milburn of Prism Design anticipates that “many couples, excited by the prospect

Clogau Gold

Soley Fine Jewellery

Which is an interesting twist. Had the couple gone for the whole King’s ransom number, they would have been accused of insensitive conspicuous consumption no doubt. “It would have been interesting to us as a trade to see who they would have chosen for the ring,” she adds. On which point others agree. “It would have been great for a jewellery designer to

of the royal wedding, may be encouraged to tie the knot a little sooner than they were intending.” Whether you ascribe to these views or not, the RW has to be a good thing. “I’m sure it will have an uplifting effect on consumers and it might be the catalyst we will need after the initial poor start to the year,” says Mark Soley of Soley Fine Jewellery of Clerkenwell.

The Big Ring Controversy It’s certainly been the catalyst for discussions about The Ring – both in the trade and among consumers. Was recycling an old ring an austerity measure as well as a sentimental gesture? Would it have been better if William had commissioned a contemporary design from a young British jeweller? “Many of our customers thought it was a cheap cop-out,” says Lizzie McAuley of Baker Brothers in Bedford and Letchworth. W&W

“The royal wedding has already had a significant impact, if only because everyone has been talking about jewellery and ‘the ring’” have been chosen and for our industry to have been put in the spotlight,” says Soley. “It was clearly their personal choice, but I think it’s a shame for the industry at large that they didn’t go for something a bit more contemporary and unusual,” adds Andrew Sollitt, sales and marketing director at Domino. The flipside of this argument (although I doubt it was a number one priority in the collective royal mind) is that the poignant gesture of giving his mother’s ring, has won William a few ethical brownie points. “It would have been great if their engagement ring had been a modern one, but I think re-using a family ring really reflects a modern style to re-use things that are important to us,” says Dan Dower, design director of Dower & Hall, whose business includes the remodelling of family pieces, incorporating important stones to create a more modern style. “We were thrilled that William chose to recycle an inherited piece of jewellery with enormous sentimental value to him,” says

W&W’s Warrender. “Updating, restoring, recycling or remodelling inherited jewellery are all the services that we promote. By choosing to recycle his late mother’s ring, Prince William also captured the public mood in these tough times and allowed the benefit to spread across the jewellery industry rather than focus in on a specific purchase and its retailer,” he adds. On top of all that, we all understand the intense sentiment behind William’s decision to propose with the sapphire and diamond Gemex

The Voice of the Industry 63

| Feature cluster ring – but would a remodelling of the stones have been a better option? “It’s a tricky situation, because this is a beautiful and valuable ring – valuable because of the stunning central sapphire and because it was once owned by Diana,” says Harriet Kelsall. “These reasons would have prevented them from even considering breaking it up and resetting the jewels in a slightly more ‘Kate’ style. I suspect they might have quite liked to do that if the situation was different. I am not that keen on the actual style of the mount itself, but the gemstones are beautiful and if I were Kate I would be proud to wear it.” The superstitious among us might have had one or two reservations, as Kelsall acknowledges. “If a customer came to me with a family ring in that sort of design, Brown & Newirth

I would be more inclined to make them a new mount for the gemstones because that way it is a clean slate for a new engagement – especially as it didn’t come from a particularly happy marriage.” Quite. But that’s another story altogether. And so, blue sapphire and diamonds it is. Might this be the way engagement rings are going to go this year? “The traditional engagement ring in the UK is the diamond ring – whether it’s a brilliant, princess or marquise cut,” says Alois Hurschler of Furrer Jacot, who speaks for much of the trade in this respect. However, the interest in coloured stones – sapphires in particular – is definitely enjoying an extra filip and the trade is ready for extra demand. “Domino offers a couple of rings which are similar to Diana’s,” says Sollitt, “and we have undoubtedly sold more of these and more sapphires since the engagement was announced.”

64 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

Calleija

Charles Green has also noticed a little more interest in sapphires. “We offer a very similar ring [to Kate’s] and we now offer diamond and sapphire rings in our latest eternity collection, along with ruby and emerald versions,” says Pip Beale, design and marketing manager. “What is interesting is the opportunity to sell more sapphires as a whole – not just blue sapphires,” says Ralph Blacklock of Blacklock Jewellery. “And there’s definitely a lot of interest in sapphire and diamond cluster rings – similar to when Prince Charles got engaged to Diana.” McAuley too has noticed the renewed interest in cluster styles. “They were considered very traditional and have been dead for a while,” she says, ‘but we sold one in the week of the engagement. I wont go overboard on them but I’m definitely going to order in more so that I have examples to show.”

“While a few years ago men were easy to please with a plain wedding band, they are nowadays much more adventurous,”

Baird & Co

All white now… at any price Regardless of the royal choice of ring, what is clear is that when it comes to wedding and engagement rings, a white metal is still the number one choice – in the UK at least. Not only is platinum an increasingly popular option, but for many suppliers, designers Diamond by Appointment

and retailers it is the norm these days. Its purity, rarity and hard-wearing properties being key attributes say Platinum Guild International. And the cost does not appear to be an issue when it comes to this market. “I think couples still see their engagement and wedding rings as one of the most important aspect of their wedding – as a symbol of

The gold of Royalty Since 1923, wedding rings for the Royal Family have been made from rare Welsh Clogau gold.

The tradition was founded by The Queen Mother on her marriage to King George VI in 1923, when a nugget of pure Clogau Welsh gold donated by a Mr. Bartholomew was used to fashion her wedding ring. The same nugget has subsequently been used for later generations of the Royal Family, including Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Margaret, Princess Diana, Prince Charles and The Duchess of Cornwall.

If tradition is followed, Prince William and www.clogau.co.uk/retail National Sales Manager:

Kevan Jenkinson

Head of International Sales:

66 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

David Butler

www.clogau.com Mobile: 07795 615 108

0845 606 88 77

Email: kevan.jenkinson@clogau.co.uk

Mobile: +44(0)7595 733 379

Email: david.butler@clogau.co.uk

Catherine Middleton will have wedding rings made from Clogau gold for their wedding this year.

Feature | love and marriage,” says Elise Compson of By Elise. Lee Ruben agrees: “The bridal market is probably the only area in the jewellery market where consumers are not cutting back,” he says. “He wants to buy her the best that his money can stretch to – even if it means cutting back on something else.” Hatton Garden-based jeweller Nicholas James reports strong sales of smaller, lighter pieces such as ladies engagement and wedding bands, with customers willing to go over budget on ladies rings while scaling back on heavier men’s platinum bands.

CW Sellors

The outlook for platinum After an exceptional 2009, worldwide demand for platinum jewellery in 2010 is forecast to reduce by 14 per cent to 2.4 million oz, according to Johnson Matthey’s recent publication Platinum Interim Review 2010. However, the picture in the UK is more positive – UK hallmarking data showed that manufacture of platinum pieces remained resilient during the wider downturn. In the first nine months of the year, platinum’s price was on average 38 per cent higher than in the same period in 2009. This discouraged stock replenishment by retailers. Although platinum’s price rose during 2010, gold’s indexed price (relative to the start of 2010) was higher than that of platinum during the second half of the year, with the gold price reaching all-time highs towards the end of the year. The upside to the higher prices during 2010 has been greater levels of recycling of old platinum jewellery. Worldwide recovery of platinum from recycling of jewellery is forecast to increase by 30 per cent to 735,000 oz. This includes old jewellery that consumers have traded in as well as unsold retail and wholesale stock. The outlook for platinum jewellery is fairly strong, although we are unlikely to see the very high levels of purchasing at wholesale level that were experienced in 2009. With platinum forecast to trade at $1,750 on average in the next six months, purchasing in China could remain subdued. Dr Jonathan Butler, Johnson Matthey

“It would have been great if their engagement ring had been a modern one, but I think re-using a family ring really reflects a modern style to re-use things that are important to us”. “We find that clients are prepared to stretch themselves,” says W&W’s Warrender, “and over recent months there has been a large increase in how much couples spend on their engagement ring.” Smooch Rings,

Charles Green

which is focussed on wedding rings, has seen sales increase in terms of value and volume over the last year, with £900 being an average spend on a pair. “And that’s despite many couples having to cut their budgets,” says Malcom Scott. “We are finding that couples are spending between £1,800 and £4,500 on their engagement ring at the moment, but it does vary a lot,” says Kelsall. “We aren’t noticing that people are cutting back, but they are looking for good value for money. We are also finding that people are particularly interest in ethics.”

An often-cited solution to the issue of cost has come in the form of palladium. Still in its relative infancy as far as consumer awareness is concerned, it has obviously been handed a useful boost by its recent hallmarked status. “The increased use of palladium in the UK has seen a steady growth,” says John Stark, chairman of Palladium Alliance International. “And in the western world, bridal jewellery accounts for about 60 per cent of the market.” At half the cost of platinum and even slightly less than half the cost of gold, the financial benefits of this precious metal are obvious. “The pricing position allows for more creative thinking, as does its weight and lower density,” adds Stark. “People are now more educated about the metal and getting used to working with it – particularly for stone-set engagement rings and men’s wedding bands. This, and word of mouth, has added to its growth.”

It’s a man thing While Stark notes that cost is now less of a deciding factor when it comes to working with or buying palladium than it was – its other intrinsic qualities being of equal relevance – there’s no escaping the fact that price matters. Particularly when it comes to men’s jewellery. The good news is that men – grooms – have come a long way in the past few years and thanks is due, probably, to footballers. “I think David Beckham made jewellery ‘OK’ for men to wear,” says Elise Compson. “A wedding ring is seen as a sign of commitment when a man chooses to wear one.” Smooch confirms that about 90 per cent of its orders include a ring for him; PH Rings is seeing a continually growing PH Rings

The Voice of the Industry 67

| Feature trend for men wearing wider bands in a white metal and Domino has recently added a dedicated men’s section to its new wedding ring collection. And it’s interesting to note that just as brides are being a little more adventurous in their choice of wedding bands, so men are getting in touch with their expressive side. “While a few years ago men were easy to please with a plain wedding band, they are nowadays much more adventurous,”

Dominic Walmsley

says Hurschler. “They choose a ring they like to suit their personality.” Catherine Barnett, UK manager at Calleija Jewellers agrees. “Men are really coming into their own in terms of wedding bands… more of them are using this as an opportunity to express themselves and are having custom designs made.” Which means what exactly? “It can be really daunting for guys who have never worn jewellery to find something that they are comfortable with,” explains Dower. “How the wedding ring feels, the reassuring weight, the comfortable fit, are all really considered when we make ranges of wedding rings. If a ring is bought off the shelf it can still be customised with different finishes, textures and stones to make it exactly what he wants.” Furrer Jacot

68 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

And for some there are boundaries. “The transition to gents’ bands with diamonds is still proving to be a challenge,” says Blacklock, and others like Brown & Newirth and Charles Green agree that plain bands or etched styles are just about the limit. But it’s not always the case. Others, such as Gemex and Domino are finding that their male customers are not averse to a touch of bling. “The market is definitely growing – especially for rings in palladium set with diamonds,” says Ruben. “This white metal has really rocketed in popularity and price since it gained recognition by the assay offices.” At Domino a number of new engineered look men’s bands have been added to the wedding ring collection. Price hikes or not, and its various attributes notwithstanding, palladium is still the less expensive option and ideal for those on tight budgets. “Couples are definitely being more cautious with the guy avoiding an expensive ring and often opting for palladium,” says Amber Saunders at Brown & Newirth. While at Prism Design titanium as well as palladium account for most sales of men’s wedding bands.

Grooms are also moving away from simple polished bands and stone-set rings is proving to be a growing market…

Smooch Rings

Still going for gold... So where does that leave gold? Once the traditional choice for wedding jewellery it’s been slipping slowly out of favour. “We are finding that customers originally wanting 18ct white gold can upgrade more easily to platinum and more often than not will take

Cymru-y-Metel

that option,” says Ruben. But it’s not all bad news for those (like me!) who like warm rather than icy tones. “Many people still expect to see their gold looking like gold, i.e. yellow,” says Sinclair at PH Rings. “And interestingly, some of our London West End customers who vowed never to sell 9ct are doing very well with it.” At Dower & Hall very tactile pieces with strong textures in 18ct yellow gold are doing particularly well – perhaps due to the fact coloured diamonds in warm tones like chocolate, cognac and champagne are proving popular and suit a warm metal. And just as Sollitt at Domino notes that yellow gold is “having something of a renaissance”, Mark Soley says that while white is still right, more of his customers have been asking for rose gold lately. And of course, skipping back to the royals for a moment, there is a pretty strong tradition there for using gold – Welsh gold

Invest in love!

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| Feature in particular – for wedding rings. “Welsh gold is expected to be used for Prince William and Kate’s wedding ring, so the Wedding of the Decade will certainly impact on sales – indeed has already done so,” says Nigel Blayney of Cymru Gold. “There is excited interest in the top of our range of Pure Welsh Gold Rings – a limited number of which we plan bringing to the market this year. And we have a large enough stock of Welsh gold to be able to do this.” As Clogau Welsh gold has been used to make wedding rings for the royal family since 1923, Clogau Gold also anticipates a knockon benefit of the RW. “Our royal association heightens the credibility of our brand and products – in particular our wedding rings,” says managing director Ben Roberts. Dower & Hall

“And the demand for Welsh gold is ever increasing.” In line with trends reported by others, he explains that brides-to-be are choosing less traditional, alternative rings from the Clogau collections and using them as wedding rings.

New wedding trends Which is to highlight one of the key directions in wedding jewellery over the past few years – daring to be different. “Brides are indeed very imaginative and some have their dream wedding rings,” says Jayant Raniga at PureJewels in London’s Green Street. “We sell more stone-set wedding bands and their popularity has grown over the last couple of years.” He also points out that grooms are also moving away from simple

70 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

Prism Design

“Brides nowadays don't want to wait until later to get the traditional eternity ring – they want to have the sparkle against their engagement ring”. polished bands and stone-set rings are proving to be a growing market. “We are continually working towards creating new designs and introducing coloured stones and coloured diamonds,” he adds. Many suppliers, such as Brown & Newirth and Smooch Rings, are noticing that their customers are choosing eternity rings as their wedding rings. “Brides nowadays don’t want to wait until later to get the traditional eternity ring – they want to have the sparkle against their engagement ring,” says Hurschler at Furrer Jacot. “Many brides who don’t wear their engagement ring all the time want the wedding ring to look a Accurist

statement in itself,” adds Elise Compson. And at W&W pierced designs, floral motifs and fine grain set diamonds are among their popular styles, while elsewhere shaped rings, hidden diamonds or messages – such as Dominic Walmsley’s year ring with hand-carved wedding date or fingerprint ring – and even stacked rings are strong contenders. As Beale at Charles Green points out, choosing a wedding band that complements the engagement ring is now a norm. Those seeking something very different and contemporary might consider CW Sellors’ his or hers wedding bands inlaid with Whitby jet.

| Feature

And finally… the little extras

When it comes to incidental wedding jewellery – earrings and necklaces for her; cufflinks for him; gifts for the wedding party – the sky is the limit. Some go with traditional options – pearls being perennial favourites in one form or another. But new, adventurous and modern alternatives are increasingly appearing on the market. Gecko Jewellery offers everything from vintage-inspired sets (a 2011 trend in its own right) to bold

Gecko

Top tips on making the sale “Educate customers carefully – in a non arrogant way – so that they understand their options. This could include everything from understanding what rhodium plating is, to ethical choices. This information helps them to make up their own mind without you needing to be pushy or to take over.” Harriet Kelsall “The personal touch is our unique selling point. Clients feel as though they can speak to anyone in the business at any stage whilst their ring is being made if it is a bespoke purchase”. Ralph Blacklock “It still amazes me that many jewellers don’t actually understand the metal alloys or plating that they are selling – people need to properly understand what they are buying. If this is the case the jeweller should jump onto a JET 1 course straight away!” Harriet Kelsall “Go that bit further to help define the experience and ensure return business. The little touches such as flowers and champagne always make a mark.” Ralph Blacklock Carat

“How the wedding ring feels, the reassuring weight, the comfortable fit, are all really considered when we make ranges of wedding rings” statement pieces in silver; bib necklaces with freshwater pearls and CZ and keepsake gifts for flower girls and boys. At Lola Rose, renowned for its colourful stone jewellery, there are floral and heart bracelets that can be chosen to complement bridesmaid dresses – an accessory, as well as a ‘thank you’ gift. And to ensure that the bride gets to the church on time (or the maid of honour is on the ball) there’s Accurist’s delicately pretty Charmed watches – surely I tailor-made for the occasion.

72 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

“Listen to your clients’ needs and take time with them. Weddings are stressful occasions but also an occasion to be treasured so do everything you can to make it an enjoyable time for the couple”. Catherine Barnett, Calleija Jewellers “The sensitive nature of the engagement ring purchase means that over-promising is not a wise thing to do – we are always conservative in our estimates on how long it will take to create the ring of their dreams.” Ralph Blacklock

Soley Fine Jewellery

Classic . Timeless . Breathtaking

“In dreams and in love there are no impossibilities.” – Janos Arnay

WWW.CHARLES-GREEN.COM

0121 236 1874

| Antique Jewellery I n

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Antique JEWELLERY

Reuse, recycle

Romancing the Sloane As the nation braces itself for a royal wedding this Spring, and jewellers gleefully anticipate a run on sapphire rings, Jo Young looks at the engagement and wedding jewellery of choice for regal folk through the ages. o, finally, after having endured several years of ‘will he, won't he?’ scrutiny – not to mention wearing the humiliating tabloid nickname ‘Waity Katy’ – Prince William’s longterm girlfriend Kate Middleton has received the marriage proposal she’d been hoping for. The date of this long-awaited

Photo courtesy of Clarence House

74 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

big business for the retail trade and, of course, for jewellers in particular. Estimates from the research firm Verdict predict that the retail industry will enjoy a £620m boom in consumer spending off the back of William and Kate’s nuptials. According to Neil Saunders, the company’s consulting director, merchandising sales around Kate’s engagement ring alone could be worth somewhere between £12m and £18m. “Although times have changed since the last big royal engagement of Prince Charles and Lady Diana, many people will still be keen to buy some form of keepsake or memento and retailers will rush to capitalise on the merchandising opportunities,” he said.

Ahhh yes, the engagement ring. What has consumed the interest of most in the jewellery trade, for obvious reasons, is the engagement ring that William has chosen to

Royal Wedding is now set and, over the top of the joyful “hurrahs” of a populace awarded an extra day off work, can be heard the delighted whoops of jewellers across the land. Royal weddings (aside from triggering bouts of flag-waving patriotism from an ordinarily apathetic nation) inevitably mean give to his bride-to-be. In a slightly unusual move, Kate is wearing the engagement ring originally given by William’s father Prince Charles to the shy 19 year old Diana Spencer ahead of their 1981 wedding. The iconic saphhire ring was originally made by Garrard, and cost £28,000. The ring is now estimated to be worth over £250,000. Young William has explained this decision as his way of “involving” his late mother in the wedding proceedings. Whether you think this is a disappointingly unimaginative move or a touchingly heartfelt tribute from a son to his lost parent, the fact is that it is now a likelihood – almost a certainty – that sales of similar rings will skyrocket in the coming months. After Diana became the ring’s original recipient, for example, there was an enormous surge in demand for sapphire engagement rings like hers. Replicas appeared everywhere – and sold out. The enduring popularity of the young Princess has meant that, despite

Antique Jewellery | much copied – much like her later penchant for mourning jewellery.

In the beginning

the comparatively lacklustre performance of the marriage itself, Diana’s ring has remained an enduringly ‘steady seller’ over the past three decades. And now? Kate has been wearing Diana’s ring for only a few short weeks now, but already the ‘royal’ stardust has been sprinkled over sapphire engagement jewellery for a second time. High street jewellers are, as we speak, shifting their blue stones to the front of their windows, and many already report an increase in sales. QVC, meanwhile, has reported an 800 per cent increase in sales of its diamonique version of the ring, priced at a terribly reasonable £34.42.

The first royal engagement ring to be given (or at least the first that has been officially recorded) was given by Maximilian I of Austria to his wife-to-be, Mary of Burgundy, in 1477. Mary was the only child of Charles the Bold and Isabelle de Bourbon, who in the year of her marriage, inherited a vast portfolio of land from her father (including modern Holland, Artois and Picardy). Essentially, this made her one of the most desirable women of her day as far as the aristocratic marriage market was concerned, and she was pursued aggressively by the French Louis XI on behalf of the Dauphin Charles as well as Britain’s own Duke of Clarence. In the event, Mary picked Austria’s Maximilian of the Hapsburg family, who became Emperor Maximilian I. The ring itself was diamond-set, beginning a tradition that remains today. The significance of this choice cannot really be underestimated; at the time of the couple’s betrothal there was no history of giving diamonds as love tokens – the tradition didn’t really begin until the discovery of the South African diamond mines in the nineteenth century. In the 1400s, only extremely wealthy people could afford such gemstones at that time, and most couples in love settled for a plain band or a ‘posy’ ring, which contained a romantic poem.

The enduring popularity of the young Princess has meant that, despite the comparatively lacklustre performance of the marriage itself, Diana’s ring has remained an enduringly ‘steady seller’ over the past three decades.

Inspiring buying Though William’s decision to give his mother’s ring to his girlfriend might seem unconventional, there is in fact a long history within Royal circles of passing on heirloom jewellery as gifts and love tokens. Moreover, Princess Diana was not the first Royal to inspire a buying trend across the nation. The engagement of Mary, the Princess Royal in 1930, for example, sparked a flurry of interest in emerald rings. Earlier still, Queen Victoria’s unusual engagement ring also proved popular with young lovers and was

Mary herself (pictured at the foot of this page) had three children with her husband before dying a mere five years after her wedding by falling from her horse.

The smallest ring As well as the first diamond engagement ring, European royalty can also lay claim to the world’s smallest engagement ring. The size refers not to the meanness of the diamond itself but the size of the wearer’s finger: the ring was given to Henry VIII and Catherine of Aragon’s daughter, Mary Tudor when she was betrothed in a proxy ceremony to the French Dauphin, son of Francis I. The year was 1518, and Mary was just two years old. (In any event, the actual marriage never took place and Mary ended up in an unhappy union with Philip of Spain).

Following Victoria Queen Victoria’s engagement ring, given to her by her cousin Albert (what can I say? They’re a funny lot) in 1839 is probably one of the most unusual and interesting royal engagement rings in British history. Victoria received a snake ring, as snakes were regarded as a symbol of love. Victoria and Albert’s union was – unlike many aristocratic marriages through history – famously a true love match. Victoria, particularly, was very taken with Albert from the outset. She described him as “excessively handsome”, noting particularly his “beautiful blue eyes and exquisite nose”. Victoria had ascended the throne three years before she married Albert, and was the first English queen to marry during her reign. Albert (who was quite a creative talent, designing much of Victoria’s jewellery) produced the

The Voice of the Industry 75

| Antique Jewellery design for the snake ring himself, and had it set with an emerald, his wife-to-be’s birthstone. Touchingly, Victoria is said to have been buried wearing the ring.

Name that ring In a similarly sentimental vein, Queen Alexandra was given an unusually personal engagement ring by the future King Edward VII, Victoria’s son. Following the Victorian trend for gem-set jewellery that ‘spelt out’ specific love messages (DEAREST rings being the best known, made using a diamond, emerald, amethyst, ruby, emerald, sapphire and topaz), Alexandra was given a ring that spelt out her pet name for her betrothed. In this case, the ring read BERTIE. Ahhhh Princess Diana was not the first royal bride to favour a sapphire engagement ring. Lady Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon – or as she is better known, the Queen Mother – also received a sapphire ring from her husband, the future George VI. The stone apparently was her favourite, although in later years she wore a diamond-set ring on her engagement finger.

Interestingly, Prince Charles gave a ring belonging to his grandmother (of whom he is said to have been fond) to his second wife, Camilla, when they became engaged in early 2005. The ring that Camilla was given was not actually the Queen Mum’s given engagement ring but is a rather splendid Art Deco dress piece from the Queen Mother’s collection. Made in platinum and set with an emerald-cut central diamond with baguette stones on either side, the ring was also one that was much admired and frequently copied at the time of Camilla (now the Duchess of Cornwall’s) wedding.

The fairytale Queen Perhaps the most genuinely romantic royal engagement story, though, and the one with

76 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

which it is only fitting to end, belongs to the Queen herself. Queen Elizabeth II’s engagement ring is a diamond-set platinum ring with a three carat centre diamond and five diamonds on either side. Nothing terribly unusual in that, perhaps. The romance comes in the provenance of the diamonds themselves: Prince Philip (who again is said to have designed the ring himself) had the ring made using some of the diamonds from his mother’s tiara. As Philip (not generally known for his romantic nature) was an exiled descendant from the fallen, somewhat financially diminished royal house of Greece, the tiara was one of the few major pieces of jewellery that

had remained in his mother’s jewellery collection. This riches-to-rags-to-riches again element of the story makes the gesture on Philip’s part an especially memorable one, I doesn’t it?

Whittaker’s World Happy 2011! Please note I did not say ‘Happy and prosperous 2011’. This does not, of course mean that I am a ‘glass half empty’ sort of guy – far from it! But realistically the weather and lashings of political gloom did not make Christmas 2010 the happiest event of the retail calendar, and the new rate of VAT will undoubtedly make some people ‘nervous’ about spending in early 2011. However, we just have to deal with this new year and all of the problems that will come with it. I reckon that it isn’t going to be easy but on the other hand there are some clear signs that the jewellery market (at least at our level) remains robust for good quality items of all ages, and particularly strong for items with brand name recognition (Rolex watches, Cartier jewellery etc). The market for good quality silver jewellery is getting stronger as the price of gold continues to render gold jewellery unaffordable to its traditional buyers; the volume of 9ct and 18ct gold jewellery simply being scrapped has also reduced the market for lower quality 9ct gem set jewellery along with the smaller 18ct jewellery gem set pieces. There is also a marked reluctance to buy any ‘after set’ brand name watches as some of the brand names decline to service watches which they quite rightly point out bear little or no resemblance to the item they originally sold. So if I have to give a ‘tip’ for 2011, it is to suggest that now is the time to concentrate on better quality items… there seems to be less of a shortage of money in this market… and the sale of a good quality item is less likely to haunt you later! Stephen Whittaker is MD of Fellows, auctioneers based in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter.

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The Voice of the Industry 77

| Opinion : John Henn

Round up the year

I should not be putting our daughter into a crèche when we visit the mountains for a few days. I find myself proposing that we go the base of Mont Blanc but, instead of laying the foundations of the second attempt in May 2011, we will go swimming as a family and playing on the nursery slopes, sledging with our west highland terrier in hot pursuit. So now it is all over and we are at the start of a new year, full of opportunities and pitfalls. Apart from the normal advice I can offer, there are two things I can suggest you pass on to those who may benefit. One involves ‘utilities’, the other concerns egg whites. The utilities are making an art form of the vocal/written contract. They are becoming so adept at using language when it is typed, that it leaves us in particular caught in a 60 per cent increased price for electricity until Feb 2011, than we agreed to pay in 2009. The near enough ‘gaining money by deception’ scam is to agree a fixed price contract with you at a very advantageous price – everybody is happy. Then a letter arrives ten months later, with the opening line: “You don’t have to do anything with

in the car park along with tractors and 4x4s. We were off. I remember writing about what we really do as jewellers when I experienced my own wedding over three years ago, but there is no doubt that reminding ourselves every now and again is a good thing. When a groom looks into the eyes of his bride with a ring in his hand and says those magic words it is a big deal… shame my first wife wasn’t listening. However I have since been able to say them again to someone more beautiful – inside as well as out – who WAS listening and has in 2010 given me a beautiful daughter. So along came another ring and you know how the story goes… forever and ever, amen. Rings eh, do you remember when we used to sell them? In my speech I introduce some more Cs to the now married couple in the snow, having gone through the first four with the engagement ring. I liked them, though I’m not sure about the rest of the guests: Communication, Consideration, Capitulation, and Conception (the latter altered by my wife when she heard I was going to say Contraception). The trouble with those rules is now I find myself thinking that because I’ve hardly seen my family in the last month,

It is amazing how you can deflate potential rising stress levels if you arrange for drinks to be placed in the hands of all the main players.

s I type, I can see out of the corner of my eye on the CCTV the clients coming in on this December late night, dusting the snow off their coats and heading for the bead counters. Has Christmas ever been so dominated by a single product category before? Having had four inches of snow fall outside the front door on the last Saturday before the big day, plus the street running out of water affecting us all and Wolves not having a chance to clatter West Bromwich in a local derby away, it was truly a miserable day for the store. But while everyone else was making the best of it, I was officiating at a wedding of a friend of mine who had asked me to help a year earlier. Finally the day arrived and I experienced a truly white wedding first hand. The blizzard conditions swirled about the venue as the 2pm kick-off drew closer and apart from missing a few significant guests like the bride’s father, all was remarkably calm. It is amazing how you can deflate potential rising stress levels if you arrange for drinks to be placed in the hands of all the main players. As it turned out, so long as the wedding took place before 4.30pm in England that was fine, so the celebrations were put back until everyone was in place and vertical. Registrars arrived

78 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

this letter if you are happy with your supply” (words may vary). At the anniversary of the contract nothing obvious changes and the first you know is when you see the first bill at the new revised tariff. I didn’t see this letter but it was not regarded as onerous and filed away – the result was we were locked into a further twelve month contract at a 60 per cent increased cost that we simply could not extricate ourselves from. It seemed the various regulatory bodies were helpless. Egg whites on the other hand – the lowliest of foodstuffs – when whisked up into a meringue consistency and placed into a baby’s nappy, will dilute the paint stripper pee they produce while teething, and leave the said baby’s bottom like, well, a baby’s bottom. Best wishes for a prosperous 2011 from your – if nothing else – varied commentator.

The Voice of the Industry 79

| Insurance Matters

Are your customers’ jewellery items fully insured? Neil McFarlane from T.H. March offers worthwhile advice that will be of great value to your customers and will leave them thanking you when they are not out of pocket. s you are aware the price of gold and platinum has more than doubled over the last few years. In addition the price of diamonds has increased due to the fall in the value of the pound against the dollar. As a result of this, unless your customers have had their jewellery valued recently their items are likely to be underinsured. So, what does this mean? In the event of the loss of an item of jewellery the maximum

any insurer will agree to pay is the sum shown on the schedule of the policy. If this states £1,000 and an item of jewellery costs £1,500 to replace with an item of equivalent quality, the policy holder will either have to accept an inferior item or top up the cost to the new value from their own pocket. We would recommend that you encourage your customers not to be caught out by underinsurance and to take action as soon

the

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as possible and arrange for their jewellery to be revalued before it is too late. Everyone gains from this approach. Your customer ensures a satisfactory outcome to a future claim. The insurers are able to deal with the claim efficiently with the minimum amount of hassle and you gain valuable income from the valuation and an appreciation of your professional service. In many cases insurers do not ask for a valuation prior to the cover being taken out and then rely on the insured proving the value of a lost item after the claim has taken place. This can cause major problems and is a great source of irritation among policyholders when agreement cannot be reached on the replacement cost of a lost item. Our recommendation is that even when insurers do not ask for a valuation it is sensible for your customers to have you value their more valuable items. This will ensure they can prove the correct replacement cost and thus achieve a fair and full settlement in the event of a loss leading to a claim. One more factor your customers need to take into account is the rise in VAT to 20 per cent which will also affect their ability to replace items of jewellery within their existing sums insured. T.H. March & Co Limited is a well-established family-owned firm of insurance brokers founded in1887. The company has departments covering household, motor, travel, commercial and scheme insurance. To find out more visit: www.thmarch.co.uk

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D E PA RTM E NT

Training for success-ion We’re more than used to the idea of the family business by now – look no further than Prince Charles chomping at the bit to get into the driving seat. It’s a shame to imagine that after all these years he might not get his chance at the helm of the monarchy and possibly a worrying thought that the ‘family firm’ might fall into the hands of the less experienced Prince William. All of which is a rather circuitous way of introducing the concept of business succession. However it’s important that, like the royals, business owners have an exit strategy in mind, when the time comes for them to relinquish their reign. ast June, the NAG’s CEO Michael Hoare discussed how the many owners who weren’t going to “sweat up the assets and sell up” when they retire hoped to hand their business down to a young family member. The idea of business succession is not an unusual one – in fact in the jewellery industry many jewellers have continued independent family-owned stores for up to six generations. As the last decade has seen the relative value of having a degree drop, and the costs involved in obtaining one are seeming less and less cost effective, it seems that now, more than ever, many youngsters are deciding to forgo university and take up opportunities in the family business. With the prospective number of successions taking place each year, businesses need to be aware of the strategy and skills provision involved in such a venture. Whether an owner decides to hand a business down to a family member or a trusted senior manager it’s important to be sure that the business continues to succeed after the hand-over. At this year’s IJL, Mike McGraw gave a presentation on the idea of succession training and the impact not undergoing such training could have on a business.

82 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

McGraw’s presentation focused on how, without a plan of action, a business can suffer the breakdown of “directorial, or family relationships, hostility and rumours among staff and sometimes the wider community, all of which can lead to supplier uncertainty or the stagnation of the business.” McGraw was keen to point out that “All in all, little or

no planning can leave a prolonged period where the business is attempting to recover. It’s important to have this plan in place so you can ensure the continued success of your business, even after you’ve gone.” McGraw’s words focused on how business leaders understand they will have to let their business go at some point, but many of them may be ill prepared, have inadequately trained senior staff, or have family disputes plighting future growth. However, he confidently points out: “With a small investment in prior planning and training, the business can see the long term benefits, once you’ve flown the nest”. In light of this, the NAG is starting 2011 with a firm focus on training its members for business succession. Here in the education department, we’ve been thinking about how exactly our existing training packages can assist in this tricky business. In December 2010 we surveyed the managers and owners of all our member stores, to see how they are currently planning to tie up loose ends. From these answers the NAG will chair a number of round table discussions, to see what advice, and provisions business leaders need to see through a successful succession. These discussions will be in conjunction with Mike McGraw, and the NAG’s Executive Development Forum and will aim to form a key part of how business leaders will decide to prepare to hand over the reins. Early findings indicate that a number of long term staff could take up more senior roles with some training, while senior members of staff should be looking to enhance their skills in particular areas, so they can eventually take over managerial and ownership responsibilities.

Education + Training | As McGraw suggests “There are a number of key areas you need to invest in to ensure a seamless and trouble-free takeover. The first is a formal training plan. When a business changes hands, more often than not job roles change, and it’s important that your staff are trained and ready to take on new responsibilities.” It’s clearly imperative that business leaders should focus on which members of staff will be taking on which roles, and how experienced they will need to be. Those on the the team who are not up to scratch, or who are taking on responsibilities above their current position, may benefit from one of the many entrylevel training courses on offer. These include the JET 1 and JET 2 courses run by the NAG. Having recently launched our new online training facility, it’s now even easier for students to take the course. The JET 1 and JET 2 programmes are a perfect way of ensuring your staff are constantly learning their trade to an industry approved standard, while also seeking to improve their skills and techniques. Each of the courses award students with a post-graduate diploma at the end of the course, and will follow the staff member throughout the rest of their career in the industry. So, that’s the newer members of staff sorted but what about those in your work force who are skilled enough to handle most of the store operations but may not have an understanding of the industry at large?

Many senior members of staff could be far too advanced to take the JET 1 or JET 2 courses but may still need to work on certain areas to turn them into the business leaders of tomorrow. Fortunately the NAG has thought of this. Having noticed the amount of senior managers who need to brush up on certain areas of the business, the Association has

manage a team, and maximise its potential; or whether it’s to brush up on market awareness or financial markets – JET Pro can provide the answers. “JET Pro has been developed, using lessons we have learned from its older EDF brother, specifically to cater for young business aspirants,” explains Hoare. “It’s modular construction and open learning

“All in all, little or no planning can leave a prolonged period where the business is attempting to recover. It’s important to have this plan in place so you can ensure the continued success of your business, even after you’ve gone.” Mike McGraw introduced the management focused course, JET Pro – a course for senior managers who want to learn how to pull the major levers that make a business successful. JET Pro enables students to take a number of individual modules to plug gaps in their skills or take a full diploma that will provide them with the skills to take on more senior management roles. The unique structure of the course means that one or two of the modules to learn skills in a particular area can be taken, or a whole suite of modules resulting in a diploma. Whether the need is to understand how to

format allow candidates to address either their specific weaknesses, or gain a complete understanding of all the levers of business. Jewellers who want to develop the next generation of business managers and proprietors need look no further than JET Pro for a structured learning solution, which has been developed by the trade for the trade.” For more information on succession training or about any of our courses, please visit our website at: www.jewellers-online.org – or alternatively, you can contact our education department: jet@jewellers-online.org

The JET online revolution The NAG’s education department has officially launched its new online training facility for JET 1. With the continued growth of the use of internet into our lives, the education department has bowed to public opinion, and responded to the call of many of its students. ith the new service live as of February this year, students will no longer have to lug around large text books and spend time and money posting their work to their tutor. Instead they will seek to enter our online learning environment, where all course materials, quizzes and assignments can be easily handled within a few clicks of a button. All exciting stuff, but how do you sign up?

To continue our new digitalised theme, you can now simply fill in the form on your word processor and send it back. Our new digital enrolment form can be found in the JET section of the website. All you need to do is download the enrolment form, add your details, and email it back to the education department. Once we’ve arranged your preferred payment method, you will receive the learning environment

link and your access key, and you’ll then be set and ready to start learning! For more information about studying JET 1 online, please contact the education department by sending an email to: jet@jewellers-online.org or by calling: 020 7613 4445 (selecting option 1).

The Voice of the Industry 83

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Education + Training |

When I’m Sixty... Eight? Miles Hoare discusses retirement and its impact on the current jobs market… cott Elledge, the famous Birmingham born writer once talked of retirement as the ‘time I stepped aside for a less experienced and less able man.’ Whether most coming ‘retirees’ see this as the case is a debate we’ve yet to begin. However, earlier this year a number of workers aged sixty-three and younger, discovered that no longer will they be able to hang up the ‘work-pants’ and buy a villa in the Dordogne, when they get mid way through their sixties. Instead, the basic state pension age will rise from sixty-five, as has been in previous years, to the later age of sixty-eight. As many workers watch their working lives stretch out in front of them, the light at the end of the tunnel might seem like it’s getting further and further away. With the national underspend on state pension provisions over the last thirty years, and the link to earnings replaced by the market price index, many of those approaching pension age currently see an increasing uncertainty in what provisions they will have when they reach the end of their working lives.

affect can a later retirement age have on the unemployment of youngsters? The NAG’s CEO Michael Hoare discussed this connection in a recent industry article, asking questions of the lump of labour fallacy, and whether the move to a later retirement age will have an adverse effect on the amount of youngsters in employment. Many leading economists would dismiss this view in terms of macroeconomics as an unreliable argument, as the labour supply of a country isn’t a fixed constant. A white paper compiled by the Institute of Fiscal Studies in 2007 found no evidence of long-term crowding-out of younger individuals from the labour market by older workers. However, the terms macroeconomics and ‘in the long-term’ relate to a general idea, a general idea based on generalised figures or trends. If you are not an economist, and your experience relates to your own business, on a micro-managed level your situation might be different. That’s why, this coming month, the NAG are hosting a number of round-

Many of those approaching pension age currently see an increasing uncertainty in what provisions they will have when they reach the end of their working lives. A more worrying statistic for the country as a whole is how many youngsters are currently being left without regular full-time employment, or the opportunities to find such employment. To assume an immediate link between the two issues would seem like a simple way of adding up the statistics, but really how much of an

table discussions to talk about how to face retirement, while also providing adequate opportunities for youngsters to become part of your business. Michael Hoare and Mike McGraw will host a round-table discussion on 2nd February with NAG members on the subject of Succession Planning, and the next meeting

will tackle the subject of Extending Working Lives. The first meeting will explore the exit route that owners will take into retirement, as well as the training provisions they instigate for their business when they leave. The second meeting will seek to discuss the relevant benefits, and setbacks with the extension to working lives. Both meetings will ask our members whether they’d rather continue to employ more experienced, elder members of staff, rather than hand these roles down to new inexperienced staff members, who may bring fresh ideas or practices to a company. The answer to the question of whether the exogenous systems have an effect on skills

provision within organisations will ultimately come from the actions of businesses and business leaders. The idea that later retirement is keeping jobs from younger workers is dependent on how businesses resource themselves to accept new staff, as well as how they provide skills to cover those who leave. Ultimately, the best answer is to search out innovative solutions – as well as tried and tested methods – to provide adequate training that will facilitate transitions that provide job satisfaction and possible job advancement for most, if not all the staff of a member organisation. Our round-table events will take place bi-monthly and will kick-start the debate on how to face these changes to your organisation and whether you would rather employ young fresh-faced busy bodies, or those elder heads of competence and experience?

The Voice of the Industry 85

| Education + Training

This month’s JET 1 project award winner announced The National Association of Goldsmiths and Bransom have announced the recipient of November’s Bransom JET 1 Project Award. All JET 1 final assignments are automatically entered for the prize and the latest winner, chosen by the JET 1 examiner, is Trudy McKenna of Chapelle in Swindon. rudy will receive a certificate and be invited to the NAG’s prestigious Presentation of Awards at Goldsmiths’ Hall. “I am absolutely thrilled Trudy has achieved this recognition which is very much deserved,” says tutor Ann Bray. “Her work has been punctual, superbly handwritten and always well presented with lovely hand illustrations, showing a real enthusiasm and pride in every subject covered in the different assignments. On her student questionnaire she stated that her real interest was in diamonds, and I have to say she herself was a ‘diamond’ student. I really do hope she will now be encouraged to go on to JET 2. Trudy has made me very proud to be her tutor.” The project’s moderator found that “Trudy’s final piece of JET 1 assignment work was

exceptional, both with regard to the content and presentation. It was clear that time had been given to gathering the information and

selecting suitable illustrations to be included which support the answer. There was a balance between the coverage given to the first and second section of the project that demonstrated a clear logical approach to this piece of course work. The illustrations were all well presented with the key information easily identified – a most worthy winner of the JET 1 Monthly Project Award.” “I was really, really surprised to win the award,” says Trudy. “I’d seen the previous winners in past issues of The Jeweller, and I was aware that it was quite a privilege, but I never thought I’d be the one to actually win the award! The course has given me real confidence in sales and in general theory and I really feel at home now,” she adds. “I’d like to thank Chapelle’s owners Margaret and Paul Mortimer for giving me the opportunity to take the course. And I’d also like to really thank Anne Bray whose great support and feedback has given me the impetus to carry on studying and do the very best I can.” Students who successfully complete all five assignments of JET 1 to a satisfactory standard will be awarded a JET 1 certificate and are then entitled to continue on to JET 2 and the completion of the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma. For more information on the JET courses, go to: www.jewellers-online.org or call 020 7613 4445 (option 1). For information on Bransom go to: www.bransom.co.uk

Worried about exams? f you're taking an exam with the NAG this coming year, and are worried that you might not yet be prepared, it’s time to open your diary, as the NAG has announced the dates of our annual tutorials. Each year the education department runs a number of tutorial sessions to assist students in obtaining the best grade possible. The tutorials are held in a number of locations across the UK, and provide students with a free opportunity to brush up on their skills before their final exams. Whether you're studying JET 1 & 2, or taking the Gemstone or Valuation courses, figures from past years show that students feel more confident if they’ve attended one of the tutorials. It’s also a great way to meet your course tutor and fellow students, in a friendly, relaxed atmosphere.

86 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

The confirmed dates are below: JET 1 Belfast or Dublin – 4th April, 19th September Birmingham – 6th April, 14th September Edinburgh or Glasgow – 12th April, 20th September Leeds – 25th March, 23rd September London – 7th April, 30th September Stockport – 11th April, 15th September JET 2 Belfast or Dublin – 5th April, 20th September Birmingham – 27th April, 21st September Glasgow – 11th April, 19th September Leeds – 15th April, 16th September Stockport – 12th April, 16th September

Gillingham, Dorset – 6th April, 28th September London – 12th April, 20th September 13th April, 21st September, 5th May Gemstone London – 29th March, 11th October 30th March, 12th October 31st March, 13th October Valuation London – 2nd March Visit: www.jewellers-online.org for further information or send an email to the education department: jet@jewellers-online.org

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| Regular

Notebook

Where to go, what to read, what to see…

Sales & Exhibitions January 14th January-27th February: Alchemists, New Brewery Arts, Cirencester An exhibition showing the work of around 26 contemporary jewellery artists who work with precious as well as unusual materials. www.newbreweryarts.org.uk January 15th-20th March: Nora Fok: a Retrospective, Harley Gallery, Welbeck, Notts. The first solo exhibition of this innovative jewellery and textile artist-designer, which will include a limited edition collection of bracelets made using rapid prototyping technology. www.harleygallery.co.uk

Afghanistan exhibition at the British Museum

31st January-26th February: Jacqueline Mina: Dialogues in Gold, Goldsmiths’ Hall, London Artist-goldsmith Mina will show her original, fused and textural jewlllery in this exhibition that will focus on the highlights of 30 years of her studio work. Her free and innovative approach to precious materials can be seen in the pieces on loan from public and private collections. www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk March Opens 3rd March: Afghanistan – Crossroads of the Ancient World, British Museum, London Surviving civil war and Taliban rule, these 200 artefacts are a few of the treasures from the National Museum of Afghanistan. Among the statues and furniture are pieces of personal adornment, including gold items from around the 1st Century AD – the earliest gold objects found in Afghanistan. 4th-6th: Desire Jewellery & Silversmithing Fair, Bank of England Sports Centre, Roehampton, London SW15 5JQ A new venue (close to Richmond Park) for this exhibition showcasing the work of around 70 contemporary British jewellers and silversmiths. www.desirefair.com

Books New Directions in Jewellery ll (£24.95, Black Dog Publishing) The boundaries of design are constantly being pushed and challenged by contemporary makers and this is as true of jewellery as any other art form… as this book proves. Following an essay by maker and academic Lin Cheung which suggests new ways of thinking about, making and wearing jewellery (thus, ‘breathing new life into it’) the authors serve up the work of 40 designers – some established, others emerging. Each image is accompanied by a detailed explanation of the inspiration and thought behind the piece. Everything is here, from the quaint and curious to the beautifully disturbing.

88 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

Jewellery & Watch Trade Fairs February 6th-10th: The Jewellery Show, NEC Birmingham The dedicated jewellery exhibition within the vast Spring Fair, will feature a relaunched Design Quarter, plus a catwalk, seminar programme and host of first time exhibitors. See page 40 for full details on the event. February 25th-March 1st: 47th Bangkok Gems & Jewellery Fair, Impact Muang Thong Thani. There will be around 3,500 stands of exhibitors from Thailand and fifteen other countries and regions at this show that focusses primarily on diamonds, diamond and gemstone jewellery and gold and silver jewellery. www.bangkok.gemsfair.biz 25th-28th: Inhorgenta, Messe München International, Munich, Germany A comprehensive overview of the watch and jewellery market with over 1,000 exhibitors from around 38 countries. This year there will be an emphasis on lifestyle trend segments. www.inhorgenta.com Desire Fair: jewellery by Olivia Schlevogt

March 4th-8th: Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre. Asia’s largest Spring jewellery show, offering well over 2000 exhibitors showing everything from diamonds and antique jewellery to gemstones, silver and equipment. www.hkdc.com 9th-12th Amberif, Exhibition Centre, Gdansk, Poland Around 450 exhibitors from Poland and elsewhere showing amber, gemstones and gold and silver jewellery. www.amberif.pl

| Industry Update

Indicative look of The Goldsmiths Centre. Inset – Michael Hoare reviews the work in progress with the site foreman.

The Goldsmiths’ Centre Michael Hoare visits Eagle Court to check on the progress of this long-awaited new centre for the Goldsmiths’ Company he new Goldsmiths’ Centre taking shape in Eagle Court, Clerkenwell, London, represents a £17.5 million investment by the Goldsmiths’ Company that has been eight years in the development. Having survived the financial collapse of its original builders, the Company is finally seeing its dream emerging from the ground courtesy of Balfour Beatty and, under the watchful eye of Peter Taylor who, as director of technology and training, has nursed the development from the drawing board to its realisation. The centre, which is being modelled from the buildings which once constituted one of the capital’s first London Board Schools, will house 24 workshops, conference and meeting rooms, a 1,400 sq. feet gallery, and café, once complete. Intended as a new hub for the jewellery, silversmithing, and allied trades, the building, which is due to open early in 2012, will draw on Clerkenwell’s heritage as a traditional centre for the creative arts. When I visited in mid December, the building work was still one week ahead of schedule despite the preceding ten days of inclement weather, and the site foreman took great pride in describing the building process so far. Using a series of photographs taken at each stage of the construction he

90 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

amply demonstrated the way in which the site would be transformed from a collection of unprepossessing Victorian buildings into a highly adaptable space combining new and retained elements. It is testament to the Company’s pursuit of excellence and eye for detail that so much of the old building will be retained, albeit sympathetically drawn-together with beautifully designed new elements.

Indicative view of atrium and old school building (as it will attach to new build)

The built environment is a source of interest to me and I found it fascinating to go behind the hoardings and witness the hive of industry that was within. Not only do the builders have to face the challenges of working on an inner city project with its innate access and materials transportation difficulties, they also have to cope with working in very confined conditions, and keeping workforce and visitors safe. The keys are meticulous planning and timing. The building process thus far has included

extensive excavation and piling; installation of retaining steels to prevent collapse; pouring of the base slab and first floor; post tensioning of concrete floors; and demolition of an old staircase housing. Once the new structure is in place, attention will turn again to the existing buildings, which because of their listed status will be refurbished with the retention of as much existing detail as possible. Floors, timbers and Victorian ironwork supporting high ceilings will be retained, while wooden casement windows and frames will be refurbished and brought up to the highest security standards subject to detailed negotiations with conservation officers. Lastly the old and new structures will be linked together with a carefully designed glass and steel atrium which will make maximum use of all available light. As impressive as the physical building is, what the Eagle Court development represents is a bold move by the Goldsmiths’ Company. Balanced against an economic climate that must inevitably lead to concerns about short term expenditure, the benefits to the trade are legion. On a purely practical level the building holds out the prospect of exhibition and conference facilities, seminar, boardroom and secure meeting rooms, a resource centre, workshops and studios. It will also house the Goldsmiths’ Institute, an industry training facility providing pre-apprenticeships, postgraduate and in-service training, as well as being a fine place to do business in London. Again, those are just the tangible aspects, what really matters is the signal that this centre gives to the rest of the world – that the Company is still vibrant and getting into its stride for the next century or two. During its long history the Goldsmiths’ Company has weathered many ups and downs but its great strength is its steadfastness and ability to take the long view despite short term discomfort. In the Goldsmiths’ Centre the Company has planted a seed from which future generations will reap the benefit. On many occasions over the last ten years, I have heard calls for the jewellery industry to unite under a single body. While this is unlikely to come to pass because of the barriers thrown up by the accidents of history, financial constraints and the like, the Eagle Court development offers the prospect of a common meeting ground and a flourishing future relationship with the wider craft and industry in the UK.

APPOINTMENTS

RECRUITMENT We are an established independent jeweller and have an extensive workshop on our premises with three goldsmiths handling customer’s repairs and commissions. We are looking for a sales consultant to join our rapidly expanding business. The successful applicant will have previous experience and a good knowledge of diamonds and other precious stones. Salary dependent on experience and ability. Applications: If you are interested in joining us please send your CV to: Mr Matthew Dunn, Woods Jewellers, 5-7 Chipstead Valley Road, Coulsdon, Surrey CR5 2RB or e-mail it to: matt@woodsjewellers.co.uk

Are you looking to recruit staff for retail, manufacturing, design, sales, jobbing, management, admin and finance? Advertise your jewellery and watch vacancies in The Jeweller magazine Appointments section and on the Jeweller Recruitment online site (www.jeweller-recruitment.co.uk) simultaneously at very competitive rates. Call Ian Francis on tel: 020 7833 5500 or email him at: ian@cube-uk.com to book your recruitment advertising in The Jeweller magazine.

www.jewelleryjobs.com A selection of our current vacancies… Retail

General

• Leading Bond Street jewellers require top class sales people with good and active client lists; languages an advantage – excellent salaries and benefits

• High end watch brand requires a watch brand manager based in the South East, must have experience at a senior level and used to dealing with key account clients and managing a small team. Dynamic and enthusiastic, French speaking an advantage

• Chinese and Arabic speaking sales people required in Bond Street and Knightsbridge • Salesperson for leading jewellers – West London • Manager for leading jeweller in Surrey required • High end diamond sales people and management required in the West End of London • Gallery Manager wanted for a leading jeweller in Kent, previous experience required in high end jewellery and/or watches • Manager wanted for prestigious new boutique opening in Mayfair. Must have West End experience and have an existing client base with good watch and fine jewellery experience. Must be proactive and able to build and maintain client relationships • Sales people and Assistant Managers/Manager Designates required throughout the country, particularly Manchester, Leeds, Liverpool, Chester, Birmingham, Glasgow, Edinburgh and the South East

• Customer Service Coordinators, Sales Administrators and After Sales Service Managers are currently being sought in London. • Luxury watch brand seeking a Marketing Manager capable of handling, Marketing, Media planning and buying, PR and events. French speaking an advantage but not essential • Essex Company needs an experienced setter; Yorkshire company needs a very experienced mounter • As always, qualified watchmakers, ideally Rolex-trained, required throughout the country

All enquiries treated in total confidence. For more information on national opportunities visit our website. Contact Katie or Grant on tel: 01756 753 or e-mail: jobs@jackson-maine.com

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| Regular

The

Last Word We kick off the new year with the low-down on Barry Bennett, the managing director of award-winning Gecko Jewellery. Personal Profile Barry Bennett grew up in Tooting and went to Hull University to study geography. He describes himself as ‘a bit of a gypsy’ in his 20s and early 30s, working, living and travelling in random jobs in different countries and places. He and his business partner Kate Carling bought a quantity of silver jewellery in the Far East in 1991 and set up a stall in Camden Market – Gecko grew exponentially from there. Today Bennett is on the National Committee of the BJA. How would you describe your personal style? I’d say ‘shabby chic’, but a colleague said ‘more Antiques Roadshow than Clothes Show’! Where is your favourite holiday destination? Why? I have lots of favorites but India has to be top of the list. It’s so totally absorbing that it’s easy to completely switch-off from work. What three words describe you best… in your view and according to others? I’d say unconventional, adventurous and enthusiastic. Others have said: eccentric, stubborn and ‘a laugh’. Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over? Globalisation has changed the industry so much that I sometimes wonder if we should have set up Gecko in the Far East. If you could wave a magic wand and change one thing about the jewellery industry, what would it be? I would wish that our raw materials (i.e. gold and now silver) were not playthings of the money markets. Metal prices are going to be a huge challenge for us in jewellery.

94 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2011

Do you know the price of a pint of milk? Do they still sell it in pints? I’d guess 80p?

Favourite shopping destination I hate shopping, but I do love a good bookshop; so Charing Cross Rd. If you hadn’t gone into the jewellery business, what career would you have chosen? Maybe we should have gone into the wine business, the sampling would be fun and the buying trips would be fantastic! Any New Year’s resolution? Same as ever, to give up smoking. Maybe this year…

To what do you attribute your success? Working with a great team helps! I think the main thing is to listen to, and be focussed on, your customers. Tell us something not many people know about you… I worked in operating theatres for three years. I went to live in Sydney after university and kind of fell into being an ODA (Operating Dept Technician). Our most famous patient was Elton John.

Quick fire (no deliberating) • Red or white wine? Red • Football or cricket? (team?) Football (Chelsea) • Diamonds or coloured stones? Coloured stones • White or yellow metal? White • Bentley or Roller? Yuk! (my only car is a campervan!) • TV or radio? Radio (so long as it’s Radio 4). • Delegator or control freak? I’ve learnt to become a delegator. • Fish and chips or Chinese/Indian? Chinese/Indian • Beatles or Rolling Stones? I love both, but the Beatles probably edge it.

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