The need for diversity at Fashion Week isn't just relegated to the runway. Too often, models of color must contend with limited resources backstage. Jourdan Dunn, Nykhor Paul, and Leomie Anderson spoke out about stylists who are unequipped to work with black models, and several industry insiders like A.J. Crimson and Ursula Stephen echoed their sentiments.
But inadequate styling for models of color is not a new phenomenon. At the beginning of Naomi Campbell's career, the iconic supermodel recalls dealing with stylists who were unprepared to work with black models. "When I was younger, I encountered this same issue. I would be backstage at shows and there would be stylists who didn’t have any experience working with black models," she tells Teen Vogue. "It’s disappointing to hear that models of color are still encountering these same issues all these years later."
Renowned activist Bethann Hardison says the reasoning behind it is quite simple. "If you don't have models of color [being booked for a show], there's no point in practice." During her tenure as a model agent (she founded Bethann Management Co. modeling agency in 1984), Hardison says black models could lose opportunities simply because of their hair texture. If stylists could not manage a model's hair, it hurt her chances of being hired. "Often girls didn't get the job if there was difficulty for the technician to actually do their hair."
Straight hair extensions emerged as a solution. "When the girls first started getting extensions, it was because they were trying to protect their hair as well as get the job," Bethann said. "They needed [a hair texture] technicians knew how to work with it."
Models would compensate for the technician's lack of expertise in a number of ways. In addition to getting straight hair extensions, models started to bring their own hair and makeup products to set. Naomi recalls lugging a styling kit to shoots when she first started modeling. "I’d always bring my own products — my own makeup colors, hair products everything — just to be sure that I had everything I needed to achieve a certain look," she said.
When Bethann was a pioneering model of color in the 1970s, she watched models like Naomi Sims create their own makeup products. "I came along during a timeframe when girls with darker skin knew how to make their own makeup," she said. "They learned from Naomi Sims. If the makeup artist didn't have [their shade], they knew how to mix [foundations] together to get their exact color."
She noted that models of color today are still "going up against a system" and thus have to "be smarter and compete harder" than their peers. Part of that means coming prepared. "A model's responsibility is to always be prepared, whether the technician is or not."
That isn't to say that ignorant stylists get a pass. "The technicians should start learning," Bethann said. "People need to be educated. The average black technician can do anyone's hair and anyone's makeup because they have to in order to get the job."
Both Bethann and Naomi are using their platforms to combat this enduring problem. Along with legendary supermodel Iman, they're fighting for inclusion through Balance Diversity, an initiative founded by Bethann's advocacy group Diversity Coalition. "I think this issue only underscores the importance of what Bethann Hardison, Iman, and I are doing with Balance Diversity," Naomi said. "We’re using our voices to encourage the industry to be inclusive of racial diversity. And this applies to everything from casting models of color to having resources they need for shows, like hair and makeup."
Bethann agrees that concerted action is necessary to incite change. She also sees the media as a valuable tool to spread awareness. "You need the press. To make things change, there has to be a blow-horn. It puts pressure on technicians to learn. It makes them stand on their toes and they become more conscious of it."
As for the models airing their grievances on social media, Bethann says they should continue to take a stand. "Speak your piece. If you have even one or two people's minds change or become aware, you've accomplished something."
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