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Old 02-01-2015, 02:42 PM
  #2086  
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I'll have mine these coming Monday or Tuesday, can't wait to get my hands on. I'm done wasting money on a GT8 conversion pretend to be GT8 lol its time to step up and joined with the big boys. I need to read more on these thread to know the car better, only 139 pages lol.
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Old 02-01-2015, 08:25 PM
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How do you remove the rear hinge pin from the hubs? The arms appears to have a round molded area on the arm and one cannot remove the pin. I want to move the rear arm spacers to the front of the rear arm for more traction. Any thoughts?
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Old 02-05-2015, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Jspeed
Ultra high speed stability is based more on the aerodynamics of the body than anything else.

141 MPH Speed Run Ofna GTP-2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kF0eyPkE0b8

Is the car at 330 or 360 mm wheelbase? Looks great. Thanks Leigh
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Old 02-05-2015, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by leebrushless
Is the car at 330 or 360 mm wheelbase? Looks great. Thanks Leigh
Thanks, the Ipanema Warrior body fits any GT car chassis wheelbase from 320mm to 360mm. You just make the rear wheel openings where ever you need them to be. Hope it helps!

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Old 03-19-2015, 12:33 PM
  #2090  
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Default motor mount plate

Where did you get that motor mount from? I'm trying to put a 29 pinion gear on but I ran out of space on my motor plate. I like what you have.
Originally Posted by snellemin
This is the Dragrace setup. It's either a Hacker or Plettenberg motor. About 2.5 seconds in 132ft.





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jXtBV1t0Is

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXVX4OGcxlA
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Old 03-19-2015, 12:35 PM
  #2091  
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Where did you get that motor mount plate? I tried putting a 29 spur gear but ran out of room on my plate.
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Old 03-23-2015, 05:08 PM
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Default DIFF FLUIDS/OIL/GREASE

What diff fluids/oil/grease comes stock in the front and rear diffs of the GTP2E? Are they the same? The manual only says "Put the diff. oil approx 80%"" for front and rear. Thanks in advance RCTECH!

Last edited by tc4basher; 03-23-2015 at 06:05 PM.
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Old 04-20-2015, 10:41 PM
  #2093  
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Is Johnracerx still alive?

My fastest speed from yesterday...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcdRzkzjEXw
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Old 04-21-2015, 02:40 AM
  #2094  
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Originally Posted by Twisted_Metal
Is Johnracerx still alive?

My fastest speed from yesterday...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcdRzkzjEXw
Man! Your GTP2E is moving! What gearing and battery?

I hope Johnracerx is still alive. haha
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Old 04-21-2015, 06:28 PM
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Default PLEASE HELP!! Worn out diff cases

Hi rctech!! I am having a major problem with constantly wearing out diff cases where the pinion goes through. The diff cups eventually start getting wobbly and comes out of the diff. I bash my GTP2E every day and usually do speed runs on the weekends so it gets a lot of hard usage. Do I need to shim the diff pinion tighter to the bevel gear on my diff? I usually have to replace the diff case about every 2 wks! This is getting rediculous! Please help!!
Attached Thumbnails Ofna Ultra GTP2e-diff-2.jpg   Ofna Ultra GTP2e-diff-1.jpg  
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Old 04-21-2015, 07:54 PM
  #2096  
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Originally Posted by tc4basher
Hi rctech!! I am having a major problem with constantly wearing out diff cases where the pinion goes through. The diff cups eventually start getting wobbly and comes out of the diff. I bash my GTP2E every day and usually do speed runs on the weekends so it gets a lot of hard usage. Do I need to shim the diff pinion tighter to the bevel gear on my diff? I usually have to replace the diff case about every 2 wks! This is getting rediculous! Please help!!
Do you have bent drive shafts?
Worn/seized bearings?
Have you balanced your wheels?

There's no reason why your diff cases should get wobbly like that unless you've got other worn parts that need to be replaced or maintained

*** Edit

It almost looks like you're referencing the center drive shaft?
Is it the front or rear center out drive that's wearing?
Do you have a center spool?
What are your diffs filled with?

You could be overloading your diff and causing the bearing to overheat and melt the plastic
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Old 04-21-2015, 09:27 PM
  #2097  
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Originally Posted by billdelong
Do you have bent drive shafts?
Worn/seized bearings?
Have you balanced your wheels?

There's no reason why your diff cases should get wobbly like that unless you've got other worn parts that need to be replaced or maintained

*** Edit

It almost looks like you're referencing the center drive shaft?
Is it the front or rear center out drive that's wearing?
Do you have a center spool?
What are your diffs filled with?

You could be overloading your diff and causing the bearing to overheat and melt the plastic

My drive shafts are straight and bearings are good. I maintain them pretty well and replace them every 2-4 wks. I run strictly on GRP tires but never balance them.

These pics are of the rear diff but the same exact thing happens to the front.
I am running a center spool. Front diff and rear diffs are stock(front oil, rear grease). I have tried 50k in the front diff but same thing happens.

How do I know if I am overloading my diffs?

My setup is: Castle 2200kv, MMM, Turnigy Heavy duty Lipos 6s 60-120c, 3000, 4000, 5000mah. Gearing is usually 38/27 for bashing and 38/34 for speed runs.
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Old 04-22-2015, 08:10 AM
  #2098  
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Since you have a center spool, I don't think you can overload your diffs... if you were running a center diff and it was low on fluid, then it's possible for the front diff to burn out and spin faster than the rear which could cause overheating and melt the plastic.

Are you applying a thin coat of grease on the bevel and crown gears in the diff? It's possible that you might have too much grease packed in there too which can cause excessive binding and heat up. I would also check the backlash between those gears and remove a spacer if it's too tight.... also add a spacer if it's too loose.... everything should fit like a glove when assembled.

Something is causing excessive heat to build up
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Old 04-22-2015, 11:44 AM
  #2099  
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Originally Posted by billdelong
Since you have a center spool, I don't think you can overload your diffs... if you were running a center diff and it was low on fluid, then it's possible for the front diff to burn out and spin faster than the rear which could cause overheating and melt the plastic.

Are you applying a thin coat of grease on the bevel and crown gears in the diff? It's possible that you might have too much grease packed in there too which can cause excessive binding and heat up. I would also check the backlash between those gears and remove a spacer if it's too tight.... also add a spacer if it's too loose.... everything should fit like a glove when assembled.

Something is causing excessive heat to build up
I am applying grease to the pinion and bevel gears but maybe too much. I usually apply a very generous amount because I didnt think it would hurt. I always check backlash between the gears to make sure its tight but it eventually gets wobbly after a while. I have had at least 2 or 3 of the bearings on the inside of the housing next to the pinion get destroyed and i'd find the little balls from the bearings all over the inside of the housing.

I love my GTP2E but this is issue is becoming a deal breaker since the car has recently become discontinued and spare parts are becoming scarce.
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Old 04-22-2015, 11:57 AM
  #2100  
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I wonder if you might have the center outdrive mounted too close to the bearing? Can you spin the outdrive freely before inserting the diff into the gear box?

I've been racing my GTP2e for over a year now on 6S and I haven't worn a single gear box yet.
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