HAMPDEN – With a name borrowed from a 1920s roadhouse and a physical space originally put up to house a branch bank, La Cucina di Hampden House has earned a reputation as a first-rate dining destination.
Executive Chef Miguel Figueroa maintains a menu at La Cucina that he characterizes as "creative Italian."
Classics such as Veal Milanese ($24) and Chicken Parmesan ($19) are available, as are pasta selections like Crazy Alfredo ($19) and Short Rib Ravioli ($23).
Seafood selections range from pan-roasted Sicilian Scallops ($27) to Pistachio-Pesto Salmon ($26). Chef Miguel also prepares specialties that include a Lobster Truffle Mac & Cheese ($28) as well as a bistro-style Steak Frite ($25).
In addition to perennially popular options such as Crab Cakes ($12) and Fried Oysters ($11), the first-course roster at La Cucina lists the likes of Fried Camembert ($10), pan-fried Brussels Sprouts ($10), and an Eggplant Tower ($10).
For us a visit to an Italian restaurant means a craving for meatballs, so we began with an order of Mike C's Meatballs (two for $8), a veal, pork, and beef formulation enhanced with a nugget of provolone tucked inside. Definitely satisfying stuff, the tennis-ball-sized orbs had a mild, meaty flavor; the house marinara in which the meatballs were served was a simple tomato gravy flavored with onion and oregano.
A "small plate" portion of Pappardelle Bolognese ($13) served as a good start to things. Fresh pasta noodles had been tossed with a marinara-based meat sauce thick with nuggets of beef, pork, veal, and sausage; the result had a satisfying simplicity we thoroughly enjoyed.
For one entree we opted to experience the Cod Canranzaro ($24) listed among the chef's specialty creations. Perched atop an oversized crab cake, a hefty slab cod was accompanied by a chunky mixture of sauteed wild mushrooms, chorizo sausage, roasted corn, and a wine-infused butter sauce.
Unfortunately those ingredients proved to be more about dissonance than harmony. Though free of technical flaws, the dish didn't really work.
Chef Figueroa's version of Chicken Francaise ($19), however, is the standard against which all other versions of this restaurant favorite should be judged.
The two full-sized breast cutlets are thick-cut and delightfully juicy, with an egg-batter crust that layers on subtle richness. The lemon-wine sauce is lush with butter yet has a tart, palate-cleansing edge; caper berries add a hint of herbal complexity without hijacking the flavor profile. It's a dish we could enjoy over and over again.
The francaise came with chunky-style Yukon Gold mashed potatoes; tender-crisp haricots verts were being offered as the vegetable de jour.
Entree selections at La Cucina di Hampden House come with warm rolls, flavored oil, and butter, but a side salad is an extra-cost option. Two variations are offered – an Insalata Mista ($6) of mixed greens and a Caesar Salad ($7).
The restaurant is fully licensed, maintaining a wine list populated by fifty-some choices. Bottle prices are clustered in the $30 range.
Among the dessert selections at La Cucina are the likes of Cannoli, Mango Sorbet, Red Velvet Cake, and a served-warm Chocolate Molten.
We shared the Chocolate Monkey ($7), an oversized "personal" tart that featured a chocolate cookie crumb crust and a cocoa mousse filling into which fresh bananas had been folded. Served topped with whipped cream, the tart was a shareable-sized treat.
Brick oven pizza is another aspect of the La Cucina experience, with pie options available in three sizes and with more than a dozen possible toppings. In addition to plan-your-own pizzas, the house suggests combinations like Gorgonzola Cheeseburger ($15) and Pistachio Basil ($14.25), the latter decked out with pesto, pistachios, baby arugula, two cheeses, and a drizzle of lemon juice.
We tried out a personal-sized Chicken, Sausage, and Roasted Red Pepper ($15). Topped with chunks of grilled chicken and sausage crumbles, the "white" pie had a thin, tender-crisp crust and a satisfying, garlic-inflected flavor.
Name: La Cucina di Hampden House
Address: 1 Allen St., Hampden
Telephone: (413) 566-8324
Website: lacucinahampden.com
Hours: Dinner – Tuesday Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday 5 to 9 p.m.; and Friday and Saturday 5 to 9:30 p.m. Lunch – Tuesday through Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Limited bar menu Monday 4 to 10 p.m.
Entree prices: $18 - $31
Credit cards: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Handicapped access: Accessible; separate handicapped restroom
Reservations: Accepted