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Aix-en-provence

The city of a thousand fountains

Visit the town of Aix-en-Provence, renowned for its distinguished and aristocratic charm. Its inhabitants praise its gentle way of life. The architecture is reminiscent of a theatrical set, and you can stroll through the town in a nonchalant manner. A city of festivals, a city of water, a chic city, Aix-en-Provence is sought after by foreigners and students alike. In the city, wander through the historic Mazarin district, the Cours Mirabeau, or discover its many fountains and squares in the pedestrianised city centre.

Discover the Provencal roots of Aix-en-Provence

From Paul Cézanne to Emile Zola

A city is as much about its people as its buildings. Mirabeau was one of the key players in the French Revolution. Paul Cézanne founded modern art here by analysing the sunlight on the Sainte-Victoire massif. Emile Zola, a friend of Mirabeau, lived here before becoming involved in the novel and the battle over the Dreyfus affair. In the 20th century, Darius Milhaud followed in the footsteps of the composer André Campra.

Calissons d’Aix and other Provençal culinary specialities…

Calissons d’Aix, made from marzipan and candied fruit, have been a speciality of the town since the 17th century. They’re well worth a diversion and a tasting break.

Other delights include olive oil, fresh chocolates from Puyricard (shop), which created ‘Le clou de Cézanne à la figue et vieux marc de Provence’ (fig and vieux marc based chocolates) , and oil pumps (brioches). You’ll also find colourful markets where every week you can savour the generous aromas of Provence.

 

Visit the historic city centre and the Cours Mirabeau

The Cours Mirabeau is the town’s main avenue. Now reserved exclusively for pedestrians, it’s a pleasant place to sip a drink on a terrace in the shade of the plane trees. If you go there in the morning, you may be lucky enough to stroll through the Provencal market. A city of water, three fountains grace the centre of the Cours: the Fontaine des Neuf-Canons, the Fontaine d’Eau Thermale, also known as the ‘Fontaine Moussue’ (the mossy fountain), and the Fontaine du Roi-René. All along the Cours Mirabeau, you can admire the hotels with their aristocratic facades, as well as the terraces and shops that contribute to the lively town centre.

A stroll through the Mazarin district

When in Aix-en-Provence, don’t miss a walking tour of the Mazarin district. This peaceful district to the south of the Cours Mirabeau, right in the centre of Aix-en-Provence, was designed by Archbishop Mazarin, brother of the famous cardinal in the 17th century. At the time, it quickly attracted the local aristocracy, politicians and lawyers, who built sumptuous private mansions here, including the Hôtel de Caumont, which has now been restored as an Art Centre. This is what makes it so charming today.

What to see and do in the Mazarin district?

The district is built around two main streets: rue Cardinale and rue du 4 septembre, which joins the famous Cours Mirabeau. At the junction of these two streets you can see the square where the Quatre-Dauphins fountain is located. This is one of the city’s most emblematic monuments, adding to the collection of fountains that are part of Aix’s heritage.

After a break in the heart of this square, stroll along rue Cardinale to the east and don’t miss the opportunity to push open the door of the church of Saint-Jean de Malte and its soaring bell tower. Built in the 13th century outside the ramparts, it was the first Gothic building in Provence. The Musée Granet, next door to the church, houses major works of Dutch, Flemish, Italian and French painting from the 16th to the 20th centuries. It’s another of the town’s must-sees.

Walking on Mount Sainte-Victoire

What would you say if someone mentioned Aix-en-Provence and Sainte-Victoire? Cézanne, of course, who painted this mountain as if it were the only one in the world. Indeed, the Route du Tholonet, or Route de Cézanne, winds its way towards Sainte-Victoire through some magnificent Provençal landscapes. Aix’s 17th- and 18th-century bastides, scattered across the countryside, typify an art of living: stone architecture, gardens and sculptures all demonstrate distinction and a taste for beauty.

Hiking on Mount Sainte-Victoire

At the foot of Sainte-Victoire, there are a number of hiking trails for all abilities, leading to the summit. The most courageous can climb up to the Croix de Provence and admire the whole of the Pays d’Aix as a reward for their efforts.

Touring the Aix countryside

The Aix countryside is famous for its landscapes and Provencal country houses, and is best explored by car.

To the east, in the vicinity of Sainte-Victoire, there are many outdoor activities available: hiking, climbing, paragliding, etc. At Saint-Antonin, the Maison de Sainte-Victoire welcomes children and explains the flora and fauna of this Provencal environment. Adults can follow in the footsteps of painters such as Cézanne and Picasso, whose last home was the Château de Vauvenargues.

To the north, via Vauvenargues, pass through the forests of Jouques, Meyrargues and Peyrolles (Lac de Plantain), then over the Trévaresse range towards Le Puy-Sainte-Réparade. Here you’ll find the famous Château La Coste. The Centre d’Art, a V-shaped building, also houses a bookshop and a restaurant where you can dine by the pool reflecting the landscapes of Château La Coste. Continue on to the Romanesque Cistercian abbey of Silvacane, the village of La Roque d’Anthéron and its international piano festival.

To the south and west, take the road to the hilltop villages of Fuveau, Saint-Savournin and Mimet, which offer beautiful views of Mont Sainte-Victoire. On Sundays, the Provençal market in Gardanne offers everything you could wish for. Further afield, take in Bouc-Bel-Air and its 18th-century Albertas gardens, a shopping spree in Plan-de-Campagne and then on to Les Pennes Mirabeau and its fully restored working windmill, before finishing with a visit to the hilltop village of Ventabren and its colourful houses.

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