There are plenty of finishing touches that can elevate a man's gentleman's outfit and a tie is one of the best. Granted, summer is the season when you can get away with the look of a louche, unbuttoned shirt, but a tie will always remain, well, timeless. Summer ties have been worn well by all the greats over the years: Warren Beatty, Gary Cooper and, as we're looking at today, Gregory Peck, who wasn't phased by the Italian heat in Roman Holiday. He remains fully suited throughout, and while we're very fond of his high-waisted, pleated trousers and notched-lapel blazers, there's one styling manoeuvre above all that holds our attention: the tuck of the tie.
Audrey Hepburn's debut feature saw her adopt the role of a touring European princess – meaning an extravagant wardrobe to suit her extravagant way of living. Yet there's one moment in the film that warmly welcomes her to a more ordinary lifestyle: Gregory Peck's comment that "you should always wear my clothes". He plays Joe Bradley, the American reporter who, by some chance of fate, stumbles into a series of romantic events through Rome with the much-sought-after princess. His advice may seem a little forward given the outward simplicity of his garb, but his sartorial finesse means we could perhaps all benefit from borrowing from his wardrobe. And so enters the question of the tie: should it be tucked in or not? If you asked Gregory Peck the question, his answer would undoubtedly be yes.
The anatomy of the tie, to most, revolves first and foremost around its knot. That's the central focus, right? So shouldn't we just let it fall naturally? Sure, and 90 per cent of men do, but tucking in that long piece of cloth can be a brave sartorial decision – if you do so with the right styling around it. The vital ingredient to making it work? Your trousers. The tie tuck is a statement, so if you're going to style it into trousers that sit on the hip, it's going to look too forced, as it draws too much attention to the fit of your shirt across the stomach area. That, and it could also result in a bit of an unflattering roll that forms from the waist down (AKA a menswear no-no). So the answer is this: embrace the high waist.
Roman Holiday hit screens in 1953, a decade in which high-waisted dress pants were all the rage. Wide, pleated and boasting a sharp centre crease, they were actually used as a casual staple – especially when made from materials such as linen, brushed cotton and tweed for the summer season. In London's sweltering heat today, opt for a pair in the first fabric. Topped off with a narrow leather belt boasting a square buckle, the high-waisted pleated pants are an elegant essential for a gentleman's wardrobe. We advise taking a trip to Edward Sexton or Anderson & Sheppard to secure a faithful re-creation. So in short, the higher your waistband sits on your torso, the more claim you have to tuck in that tie. Oh, and adopting a little of Peck's charm helps too.
So stick to a simple design, weave it into some well-proportioned suiting and prepare for the praise to come rushing in. In search of a formal statement this summer? You can't get much bolder than this.
Here are some of our favourite, timeless ties to trial this season...
