French musician Serge Gainsbourg was no stranger to controversy. Over the course of his career he wrote over 500 songs that blended wordplay with satirical, sexual and subversive overtones. The most famous – in the United Kingdom and America, at least – was “Je t'aime… Moi Non Plus”, an erotic love song written for Brigitte Bardot, recorded in a sweaty Parisian studio and later made famous through a rendition with Jane Birkin. It sold over four million copies.
Scandalous releases like this built Gainsbourg's reputation and divided public opinion – people either hated him for his lack of decency or adored him for his nonchalance. To put it simply: French pop music had never seen an artist like him. Across his diverse repertoire – genres ranged from jazz, chanson and yé-yé to rock, funk, reggae and electronica – Gainsbourg's artistic legacy was impossible to contest, making him one of the most influential musicians of all time.
Gainsbourg didn't really care about what people thought and, unsurprisingly, that trait was reflected in his wardrobe. He owned only essential pieces: a striped shirt, wool trousers, a pinstripe suit, straight-cut jeans, leather boots, an army shirt and jazz shoes.
Sure, these are all easy items to wear, but it was Gainsbourg's way of living in them that elevated these essentials from basic to cool. Unbuttoning his shirts, fraying his jeans, battering his boots, tucking in his tie (all the while holding a Gitanes cigarette), he knew the meaning of style and, subsequently, there's no greater point of call for clothing lessons.
So today, on what would have been his 92nd birthday, here's ten reasons why this French musician is the ultimate style icon. Please follow suit.
When: 31 January 1967
Style lesson: This tailored, striped ensemble is composed of Gainsbourg's go-to garments and one of his go-to sartorial rules: when there was no tie involved with the shirt, he always left it unbuttoned. A sharp piece worn through loose styling is the first step towards achieving his insouciance.
When: 1 February 1986
Style lesson: Throughout the 1970s and 1980s, one piece of footwear above all defined Serge Gainsbourg: the white jazz shoe. He bought his pair from maison Repetto and quickly became an ambassador for both the Paris-based house and the shoe itself. Crafted through a stitch-and-return technique, the non-lined leather shoe was simple, striking and worked best with naturally frayed jeans and a denim shirt (see above).
When: 4 March 1968
Style lesson: Although Gainsbourg's persona was undeniably French, 1960s British fashion had a huge impact on in his style. The most obvious influence was the trench coat: his design of choice was double-breasted, finished with wooden buttons, epaulettes on the shoulders and buckled fastenings around the cuffs. Wrap it around a turtleneck and tailored trousers, subtly pull up the collar and you'll certainly see a Serge in your likeness.
When: 1 January 1984
Style lesson: The Beatles may have introduced the slim black mod suit, but, later on, Gainsbourg reinvented their most stylish essential into a brilliant casual ensemble. Trading in his shirt and tie, he paired a single-breasted suit with a denim shirt, always unbuttoned and collar pulled out slightly over peak lapels (these he always favoured). In doing this, he introduced the ultimate approach to a smart-casual dress code. Killer.
When: 24 December 1979
Style lesson: The pinstripe suit was designed for practical purposes, used by British bankers to denote their specific company. But, in the 1970s, Gainsbourg flipped it to be a statement for an occasion – be it an indoor writing session, performance or dinner date. He did it by splitting the suit up, often pairing the blazer with a military shirt and jeans ensemble.
When: 6 January 1968
Style lesson: Gainsbourg's favourite piece of outerwear? Easy: the paletot coat. His collection was crafted from the coolest materials, most notably wool and corduroy. Wool ones made him look elegant and sophisticated (which we're all for), but our favourite has got to be this velvet corduroy design, a little cropped in its length and finished with leather berlebeck buttons. Source a similar piece and your winter wardrobe will be sorted for a lifetime.
When: 1 January 1981
Style lesson: Gainsbourg's staple uniform was consistent throughout his career, but if he ever wanted to make a little statement, he did it through accessories. Primary colours, for example, were only ever injected through the use of a scarf. As for sunglasses? His black, bug-like shades (designed by Pierre Marly) were weird. Period. But on top of a neutral, nonchalant outfit, they really worked.
When: 4 March 1968
Style lesson: Designed to protect the body against harsh weather conditions, the sailor sweater was a solid piece of armour and, thanks to Gainsbourg, it became a stylish one too. Opting for a traditional merino wool design with buttoned plackets on each shoulder, this was his knitwear essential – and if you want to follow suit, tuck it into some grey wool trousers for maximum style effect.
When: 1 February 1983
Style lesson: When he wasn't wearing it with blue denim jeans and a pinstripe blazer, Gainsbourg generously unbuttoned his US Army shirt and styled it with high-waisted white trousers. He was likely a little influenced by David Hemming's signature look in the 1967 cult-classic Blow Up, but this take was way more louche and we're really into it. The finishing touch? Gitanes, of course.
When: 8 October 1964
Style lesson: Though his approach to tailoring definitely pulled influence from London's mod movement, Gainsbourg's way of carrying the single-breasted suit was undeniably French. That's most obvious when looking at his elegant styling and well-considered details, from showing a centimetre of his shirt cuff (sartorial rule) and his skinny black tie (tucked in for the win) to basic leather brogues and overall stance of nonchalance.
Why you need to wear a pinstripe suit (and the best ones to buy right now)
How to dress more like French style icon Jean-Paul Belmondo
Five essential items to steal from Michael Caine's 1960s wardrobe
