Like countless others, I shrieked with delight when I saw Dame Maggie Smith in Loewe's new Spring/Summer 2024 pre-collection campaign. And not just because Professor McGonagall is modelling a Puzzle bag. Rather, it's because the campaign is so politely rebellious.
With a mischievous twinkle in her eye, it's as though Dame Maggie Smith is thumbing her nose at the unspoken expiration date faced by women – a move supported by a lack of airbrushing, ensuring the lines on her face and the age spots on her hands have their day.
At 88 years old, the acclaimed actress is now fashion's newly crowned It Girl and unsurprisingly, the image of her in a giant faux fur coat clutching the brand's iconic handbag has gone viral.
And yet, Jonathan Anderson isn't the first designer to dream up a campaign featuring an older woman (although it's a pretty canny move to appeal to the “silver pound”, as well as fashionistas and Harry Potter fans). Celine was arguably the first brand to do so in 2015 when it cast 80-year-old literary star Joan Didion as its poster girl.
But Loewe's campaign has come at a more optimal time, somehow ensuring it hits differently. For a start, it is unapologetically real. It's clear from the images that Dame Maggie hasn't surgically altered her face or smoothed away the signs of ageing with cosmetic treatments. In fact, she is proudly revealing decades of experience by not wearing makeup – a wonderfully refreshing trend that has made headlines recently after Pamela Anderson championed a natural look at Paris Fashion Week.
It's also telling that Dame Maggie's cameo has eclipsed the other stars in the campaign, including American actress Dakota Fanning.
Perhaps this is because the Loewe campaign fits neatly into the zeitgeist where women who might once have been expected to hang up their heels for good are bucking societal expectations and striding forth, proving that age really is just a number. At 65, Madonna has kicked off a world tour to sold-out stadiums. 77 year-old Cher, donning a sequinned catsuit and Eurphoria-style face gems, is PAPER magazine's new cover girl. Not to mention, Charlotte Rampling, 77, positively smoulders in the new Massimo Dutti campaign.
And it is this that is provoking an emotional response, especially now that more people than ever before are experiencing a disconnect between biological and emotional age due to increased life expectancy. It is also proof – if proof were needed – that women “of a certain age” deserve to be seen and celebrated.
Ultimately, Dame Maggie is showing us that she's living by her own rules. Our national treasure is beaming out of Loewe’s ads looking every inch the fun, slightly naughty granny who would drop the F-bomb over a cream tea. And in doing so, it's almost as though she's saying, “Bet you didn't expect me to do this!”.
Truth be told, no we didn't. But we're so glad you did.
For more from Fiona Embleton, GLAMOUR's Acting Associate Beauty Director, follow her on @fiembleton.
