Tokyo is a city that might be well spoken of in the plural, just as the Greeks used to speak of Athens—for this city is the largest in the world, and even locals might not be able to comprehend the whole city in their lifetime. Made up of 23 wards that are distinctively unique to each other, one person's understanding of Tokyo might be different to another's—depending on which area they spend most of their time in.
However, there are some universal rules to live by whenever you are in the city. No matter which area of Tokyo you are in, these are some tips to enjoy the magnitude of the megalopolitan area seamlessly and pleasantly.
1. Choose Haneda instead of Narita Airport as your point of arrival
Narita International Airport may be the bigger, more famous airport in Tokyo, but Haneda is located in the city, while Narita is a part of Chiba prefecture, on the eastern outskirts of Tokyo. This means commuting to the city center from Haneda will save you time and money. With its amazing public transportation system, you can easily choose between trains or buses.
2. The Japan Rail Pass might be too expensive if you’re only exploring Tokyo
Purchasing the Japan Rail Pass is a no-brainer if you plan to travel through the country, but if you will spend most of your time in Tokyo, it can be a rather lavish expense—and an unnecessary one. The Japan Rail Pass only works for trains and buses that are managed by the JR company. Throughout Tokyo, other train lines operate as well as JR trains. Most JR stations sprawl among the more commercial areas like Shinjuku, Shibuya, and Harajuku, but to get to know Tokyo beyond the touristy sites, explore more the neighborhood-y ones such as the old town Yanaka, hipster Kuramae, or traditional fish market of Tsukiji. To get to those places you’ll need to take the subway and buses operated by other companies, which are not covered by the Japan Rail Pass.
3. Get yourself a Pasmo (or a Suica)
These will make your adventure through the megalopolitan serpentine transportation system a walk in a park. Pasmo (or Suica—they are the same kind of cards, just issued by different train companies) is a super-smart card that can be used not only to get you through the train station’s gate but also to pay for everything, from bus tickets and vending-machine snacks to your compulsive buying in Tokyo’s exceptional convenience stores. You can easily get one from the ticket machines at any train station, load it up with yen, and hop on-and-off effortlessly between modes of transport like the locals do.
4. Remember this is a cash country
No matter how futuristic your imagination of Japan is, it is still a country that is very much rooted in tangibility—and to some extent, a sensory experience. That is why Japanese people prefer renting comic books rather than getting a kindle, or ordering an expensive carved seal (hanko) than registering a digital signature, or in this case, carrying (and receiving) cash than using debit and credit cards. So prepare a thick wad of yen at all times, because there are five-star ryokans or top-tier sushi restaurants that refuse to take credit cards or e-money. If you need more cash, find the nearest convenience store—these usually have an ATM inside. Very few Japanese ATMs work with foreign cash, let alone provide you with an English language option, but those in the 7-Elevens should be reliable enough.
5. Note: there are at least five stations with the name “Shinjuku”
If you ask the locals where the Shinjuku station is, they might ask you in return, “Which one?” Shinjuku, like most famous districts in Tokyo, is not only vast but also comprised of several areas, and each has its own train station (with different operating train companies). There is the famous Shinjuku Station that is owned by JR company (the same company that issues the Japan Rail Pass), and there are those with the name “Nishi-Shinjuku,” “Shinjuku Gyoen-mae,” “Shinjuku-san-chome,” “Seibu Shinjuku,” plus many more. So when you’re planning to visit Shinjuku, or any other district, make sure you’re heading to the right station, closest to the place you’re looking for.
Tip: Google Maps is a life-saver! It can indicate which train company you have to hop on, and which “Shinjuku Station” you need to go to. Just enter the name of your destination and choose the one with the least walking distance.
6. Be prepared to downsize
Get used to everything being small in Tokyo. The first diminutive thing you may notice is most likely your hotel room, and more often than not, the size of the bed and bathroom. Try to pack lightly for Tokyo, and check the bed size when you book your accommodation—at the largest category, most hotels normally offer a queen-sized bed. Very few provide king-sized beds. Most restaurants are also small, and they are meant to cater to only two to four people per group. Unless you come to a family restaurant or an established Izakaya, it is usually a challenge to find one table for a group of more than four people. It’s highly advisable to do a little research about your preferred eatery’s seating arrangements, especially if you’re traveling in a big group.
7. A long line is a good sign
Japanese people are known for their long suffering and perseverance. They don’t mind a long waiting time—nor getting up (way too) early to get in the line, be it for the opening of a new store or lunchtime at a famous soba noodle joint. Don’t let the long lines discourage you! Instead, get used to it or arrive earlier to beat the crowd. Better yet, join the queue because wherever there’s a long line with locals waiting, it’s a sign that the place is undoubtedly worth it.
8. Don't ask for a menu—ask for the ticket machine instead
When you step into a ramen shop, you are expected to place your order by giving your ramen ticket to the cook. There is no menu that will be given to you, nor a waiter to take your order. You have to find a massive machine, usually located by the shop’s entrance, that is full of buttons with photos of every item on the menu and its price. Insert your bill (remember to always bring cash) and press the button for the item that you want. Your ticket and exact change will be spewed out by the machine. Hand the ticket to the food attendant (or the cook himself)—that’s how you place your order in a ramen shop.
9. Be aware that most cafes and restaurants only open after 11am
Although Tokyo is the greatest feast on earth, the feast starts at lunch time, not at breakfast. Most eateries begin their first service at lunch, and hardly anything opens for breakfast unless it’s an international joint that clearly serves breakfast on its menu. The denizen of Tokyo have their breakfast at home, from a convenience store, or nothing at all because they are too busy running to get into the packed train before the doors close.
10. Watch out for rush-hour hell
You’ve probably seen the videos of Japanese train officers ruthlessly pushing people into sardine-packed train cars. And if you’re not keen to experience that kind of phenomenon during your trip, it is better to steer clear of taking the trains during weekday rush-hour peak—between 7am and 9am, and shortly after 5pm. The most congested lines will be the Tozai line, JR Chuo-Sobu line, and the popular JR Yamanote line, which runs around the city and stops at some of Tokyo’s most popular districts including Shinjuku, Shibuya, and Harajuku. The stations will also be packed. Try to avoid commuting around these hours, but if you can’t, search for other walking-distance stations that operate different lines and depart from there.
11. Learn escalator protocol
You will soon notice that on the escalator, people stand on the left side, and leave the right side open. That is to give way for others who are in a rush to use the right side to walk up without any obstruction. Stay on the left side when you’re riding the elevator to avoid annoyed looks from locals. While you’re living by this rule in Tokyo, you will have to do the opposite in the Kansai region—that will be Osaka, Kyoto and Nara. Just don’t get mixed up between the two.
12. Public bins are scarce—so bring a bag for rubbish
Soon after devouring 7-Eleven’s fried chicken, you realize that you cannot find anywhere to throw away the greasy paper. A domestic terror attack in 1995 that involved deadly sarin gas forced the government to remove public bins to prevent future attacks, as they believed this could be another place where dangerous substances could easily be installed. That being said, you still can find these rare objects in a few spots in public parks, some train stations, public restrooms, and in front of convenience stores.
Tip: Bring an empty plastic bag with you to hold the rubbish until you can take it back to your hotel or Airbnb and sort it. Also, if you buy food or drink, eat it where you bought it. They usually place bins nearby so you can toss your rubbish right away.
13. Get to know Tokyo's neighborhoods
Tokyo, as vast and large as it is, is divided into many neighborhoods that have become city centers in their own right. The capital has several downtowns spread throughout the city. Depending on what you’re looking for, one downtown might be more suitable than another. Here are the five busiest downtown districts of Tokyo which each offer different impressions and experiences.
Shibuya
A frenetic neighborhood full of young people. Expect to spend your money on animal cafes, 100-yen stores, or cute-looking puddings that are too pretty to eat.
Shinjuku
The district that never sleeps. Shinjuku is a massive office complex, so its commercial areas are catered to entertain flocks of Japanese salarymen after office hours. Find the infamous Kabukicho, Tokyo’s biggest red light district where almost 300 nightclubs, love hotels, shops, host and hostess clubs, and restaurants are ready to serve you all night long.
Ikebukuro
An old artistic district that is less festive than Shibuya or Shinjuku, and more family-friendly—but not less lively. The area was a home for many artists’ studios in the 1940s and its image as a district of art and culture is still widely present, especially in the western part. Ikebukuro is also known for its shopping, arcades, anime fans, and family days out at the city's rooftop aquarium.
Roppongi
A classy adult-oriented area that is popular among travelers, offering a large number of tourist-friendly entertainment spots. Roppongi’s surrounding districts are home to many embassies and boasts a large expat community. Recently, the district has also developed a reputation as a cultural center with several world-class art galleries appearing in the area.
Ginza
Tokyo's first Western-style shopping district is where the city's old money still shops. It is a bustling upmarket area with rows of prestigious department stores, high-end boutiques, art galleries, and exclusive restaurants.
14. Get used to self-service cashiers
Don’t be surprised if there is no one waiting for you at the cashier when you’re checking out. These days, the country is increasing self-checkouts to ease labor shortage problems. You will find big stores in Tokyo such as Uniqlo, Muji, or GU, and convenience stores like 7-Eleven and Family Mart install rows of self-service cashier counters that will calculate the total amount of your purchase. Note: these machines will automatically deduct payment from your credit cards without applying any payment authentication steps.
15. Silence is golden
Tokyo may be buzzing tumultuously with background sounds from blaring advertisement screens or salespeople screaming out deals outside the stores, but you are also expected to be quiet—especially when on the train, bus, and other public places. Talking in the train car is not banned, but if your voice is loud enough to be heard by the people around you, it is considered annoying and rude. Japanese people are aware that they are sharing space with others, so keeping any noises at a low volume—including turning the sound off on your smartphone and not receiving calls on board—is considered an understood etiquette.
This article was originally published on Condé Nast Traveller U.K.
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