Review: Musée des Arts Décoratifs

Start from the top. Where are we? What's this place all about?Occupying the west wing of the Louvre—though not part of the Louvre—the Musée des Arts Décoratifs is the definition of grand. And, as the home to one of the world’s largest collections of decorative arts and design, including fashion, it has to be. It’s also the city’s second oldest museum, after the Louvre, making the historic building itself is part of the draw—particularly that stunning, vaulted central atrium. It doesn’t command the same visitorship as its grand neighbor or the Musée d’Orsay (it drew 920,000 visitors in 2017) but it remains a favorite among design and fashion aficionados.

So what will we actually see in the museum?This is one of the largest collections of design and decorative arts in the world, one that's perhaps best known for its fashion and period rooms. The permanent collection—nearly 600,000 objects dating as far back as the Middle Ages—included graphic arts, tableware, textiles, furniture, fashion design, jewelry, toys, and even wallpaper.

Any good rotating exhibits, too?Some of the most iconic exhibits here have been temporary: the Dior retrospective in 2018 brought in a record-breaking number of visitors. Other noteworthy exhibits have paid tribute to Barbie (2016), fashion designers like Dries Van Noten, and jewelry icons like Diane Venet. Because these are marquee exhibits, the crowds descend in droves, making it difficult to journey through comfortably.

What's the crowd like?Temporary exhibits draw massive crowds; the permanent collection brings in serious design and decorative arts fanatics, fashion and design students, and cultured locals.

How easy is it to navigate?There’s a lot of ground to cover, so come on off-peak hours and buy your ticket in advance online. The permanent collections are comfortable to visit, and there are special programs for visitors with special needs. The staff appear well-equipped to accommodate a range of accessibility concerns, and an elevator at 105 rue de Rivoli service wheelchair user or visitors with reduced mobility.

If we're on the hunt for a good souvenir or gift, is the museum shop worth a stop?There are genuinely inspiring pieces to be found here, including accessories, jewelry, children's toys and gifts, and stationery.

How about the café?Designed by Joseph Dirand, Loulou, the museum’s French-Italian restaurant named for Loulou de la Falaise, is a popular destination for locals; it's place to see and be seen with good, if expensive, dishes. The main draw is the outdoor terrace, right on the edge of the leafy Tuileries Garden.

If we're tight on time, is the museum still worth a stop?With the sheer number items that span five time periods, this museum merits time. But if you're crunched, a good 60 or 90 minutes will do just fine as a primer.