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So picturesque and pastoral is Provence in the south of France that tourism runs rampant here, particularly in the height of summer when fields of lavender dot the horizon and the sound of buzzing cicadas fills the air. Quel dommage! For those who prefer to tour like a local, consider yourself in luck. We asked the unofficial first couple of the region—Frédéric Fekkai, a native of Aix-en-Provence, and his tastemaker wife, Shirin von Wulffen—for their little black book of off-the-beaten-path destinations.
From wineries where you can sip rosé with views of a Tadao Ando chapel to the gallery that sells the exquisite vases the couple scatter throughout their AD-featured home, there is no shortage of beautiful things to indulge in. Come with an empty stomach—and suitcase! And of course, don’t miss a stop in the lovely new boutique Fekkai and von Wulffen opened for their latest venture, the Provence-based beauty brand Bastide. It isn’t yet stocked in U.S. boutiques (though, shhh, you can find it online), so, like many of the best things in the region, you can file it under "only in Provence."
Château La Coste
This winery boasts an impressive art foundation with a not-to-be-missed sculpture park featuring works by Frank Gehry, Tracey Emin, Jean Nouvel, and Louise Bourgeois (whose crouching spider gloriously hovers above a lake), as well as a Tadao Ando art center and chapel. Among the acclaimed restaurants on the property is Louison, the seasonally curated gastronomic spot from Michelin-starred chef Gérald Passédat. There is also a new hotel and spa, Villa La Coste. Von Wulffen and Fekkai are fans of the rosé and “always take a few cases home with us,” she says. chateau-la-coste.com
Bastide
The long beloved Aix-en-Provence beauty brand has received a chic update since von Wulffen and Fekkai purchased it two years ago, and now boasts a new home. The flagship was designed by award-winning French architect Amelia Tavella and constructed by local artisans to evoke a bastide, the typical country manor that the company is named for. It features sandstone arches and a centerpiece lavoir carved out of a single block of stone. The potions and lotions, which are made from local ingredients like rose, olive, and amber, sit on floating shelves all around. 14 Rue Espariat; bastide.com
Cézanne’s Atelier
Provence has a rich history as an enclave for artists, from Picasso to Cézanne. The latter’s atelier, where the artist worked from 1902 until his death in 1906, is worth a stop, says von Wulffen. cezanne-en-provence.com
The Wildlife Gallery
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True to its name, The Wildlife Gallery is filled with various representations of animals, from terracotta and plaster panthers to watercolor horses. Von Wulffen and Fekkai collect the work of the artist and gallery owner, Aurelien Raynaud. aurelien-art.com
Gago
Von Wulffen calls this 20-year-old clothing and jewelry boutique “a real shopping gem. The owner is amazing at discovering designers,” she notes. The well-curated space stocks chic resortwear made by locals alongside more avant-garde finds from Comme des Garçons. Among von Wulffen’s favorite finds: “I have beautiful earrings and a ring from William Welstead, and I recently bought a navy cotton jumpsuit from Arts and Science.” gago.fr
Pom d'Api
This charming brand has been making traditional children’s shoes since 1870. Von Wulffen insists it is “the best,” and it’s where she stocks up on sandals and Mary Janes for her little ones. pomdapi.fr
Vint'age Boutique
In a world of eBay and 1stdibs, it’s becoming increasingly hard to uncover rare vintage gems IRL, which makes this spot all the more special. It features Chanel, Prada, Alaïa, and Hermès, to name a few. “It’s a treasure trove!” says von Wulffen. vintagedeluxe.fr
Gallifet Art Center
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This center plays host to everything from contemporary art shows to jazz concerts. Von Wulffen and Fekkai are fans of the Nicolas Mazet-curated exhibitions and recommend staying for lunch or dinner in the courtyard. hoteldegallifet.com
Hôtel de Caumont
Another must-visit art center—this one in a newly restored 18th century landmark building. Currently on display: a Sisley exhibition. Von Wulffen recommends coming for lunch in the garden and sifting through the “amazing” gift shop before departing. caumont-centredart.com
Galerie Amaury Goyet
Von Wulffen and Fekkai collect vases for their home here. Among the other offerings are hand-painted Christian Lacroix pottery and Jean Cocteau drawings. galerieamaurygoyet.com
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Pizzeria Chez Jo
Von Wulffen and Fekkai’s favorite pizza place conveniently lies just down the street from their Bastide store. Von Wulffen recommends sitting on the terrace and starting with the “salad,” which she explains “is a bowl of raw, freshly picked vegetables for you to piece together as you please.” She adds, “According to Frédéric, they have the best pizza in the world. And I think he just might be right for once!” We won’t tell the Italians if you don’t. pizzeriachezjo.com
