by Kate Barba

I mentioned in the Tokyo story that a friend from college lived in Japan for a couple decades and was happy to help me plan our visit.  One of the first things she said was to make sure to see Nikko.  I took her at her word and immediately made it one of the three main destinations of this trip.  I am so glad I did!  Japan’s beauty can be found in its cities, architecture, people, and food, but it is also in the mountains, forests, and water.  It was so nice to get out of the large metropolis of Tokyo and see the landscape up close.  

On our first day we took a nice walk along the Daiya River, just to get a feel for the area.  Nikko’s famous red bridge marks the entrance to the World Heritage Site and National Park, but rather than starting with the main sites, we decided to follow the river and walk in the Kanman Park instead.  As you can see, it had beautiful scenery and a striking row of Jizo statues, which are stone statues of the Buddhist protector of travelers and children.  How appropriate!  This side of town also has a botanical garden and the Imperial Villa.  (We didn’t make it to either, but we saw lots of plant beauty and architecture this trip and needed to pace ourselves!)

One our second day we visited the temples and shrines of Nikko.  This World Heritage Site is an impressive mix of the two major religions in Japan.  Shinto is Japan’s native religion and its systems “revolve around the Japanese land and seasons and their relation with the human inhabitants.” (For more info, click here).  Buddhism came to Japan in the sixth century and was widely adopted, though it may be more accurate to say it was integrated into the existing belief system.  Today, many Japanese identify as Buddhist, but still bow, clap, and pray at Shinto shrines.  Shrines and temples exist side by side in Nikko and compliment each other.

Rinno-ji

Nikko’s history dates back to the 8th century when the Buddhist monk Shodo Shonin established a hermitage to practice isolated meditation and spiritual enlightenment in the mountains.  In the 17th century, Tokugawa Ieyasu, the shogun who unified Japan, chose Nikko as the his final resting place.  He was deified and his opulent tomb is said to “enshrine the glories of the Edo period (1603-1868).”  We spent the day exploring the beautiful architecture, fun design details like monkeys and cats, and springtime greenery of the hillside complex.

Tosho-gu

Taiyu-in Temple and Futarasan-jinja Shrine

National Park/Chuzen-ji area

On my birthday I wanted to go for a hike, so we took the National Park bus and hiked part of the Senjogahara hiking trail.  We started at Yuno Lake and hiked around and down the beautifully maintained trails past waterfalls, forests, marshland, and mountain views.  It was lovely, but cold.  Because of the elevation, spring had barely arrived.  We found the last of the snow and the elusive cherry blossoms!  

On another day in the mountains we visited the popular Kegon Falls and walked along Chuzen-ji Lake.  The beautiful high mountain scenery of Nikko National Park is accessible by a 30-45 minute bus ride from the town and is a worthy day or two on your itinerary.  If you are not into the shrines and temples there are several resorts in and near Chuzen-ji.  Hikers should consider my birthday hike as well as a climb up Mt. Nantai, which we hope to do next time with an earlier start.

One day, while Pete and the kids worked on some math and science, I decided to explore my fascination with Shintoism.  I think of Shintoism as a form of nature-worship and I love the idea of honoring the divine spirit (kami) of ancient rocks, trees, mountains, and water.  The geologist in me already has a deep love of the physical Earth, but to imagine a living spirit in these amazing parts of the landscape resonates with my soul.  So, that morning I took some alone time and climbed to a part of the Nikko complex many day-trippers miss, the Takino-jinja Shinto shrine.  I have found that I need time in nature to feel whole, and time alone in nature can be very healing.  Don’t get me wrong, I love hiking and exploring nature with friends and family.  However, wandering alone at my own pace and with my own thoughts allows for a quieting of my anxious mind and a feeling of connection to the world.  It’s my form of meditation.

Takino-jinja (back in Nikko)

I counted steps; I listened to the water, the trees, and the birds.  I participated in good luck rituals, and prayed at the shrine.  I gave thanks at the fertility stone for my amazing children and strong parents.  I reflected on my love, trust, and partnership with my spouse.  I filled my cup so that I could share with others.  If you feel the same way, don’t be afraid to take that time for yourself, even on a family vacation.

Nikko is a beautiful destination, with both natural and cultural reasons to visit.  At only a few hours from Tokyo you could do it in a day, but it’s much better to plan 2-5 days.  Stay in town, explore the many great restaurants and snacks, and go for a walk.  Don’t forget your jacket and your favorite camera!

Thanks for reading to the end.  Next up: Hiroshima, Japan!  Don’t forget to check out our past stories and subscribe for future articles as well.  Find us on Facebook and Instagram for bonus content!  Please note that any links or business names provided are for information only, we did not receive any compensation for our opinions or recommendations. As always, if you are planning a trip to any location we visit we are happy to provide more details and opinions, so feel free to contact us!