A Guide to Kusatsu Onsen

At an altitude of 1,200 meters above sea level, Japan’s famed Kusatsu Onsen is a scenic hot spring destination that offers skiing in winter, hiking in warmer seasons, and relaxation year-round.

The town of Kusatsu is located in Gunma Prefecture, northwest of Tokyo. Nestled between the active volcanoes of Mount Shirane and Mount Motoshirane, this hot spring locale has a storied reputation within Japan, with some accounts tracing its history back nearly two millennia.

Kusatsu is a tiny town of around 6,000 residents and does not have a train station. A bus from Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi Station provides direct service to the town. Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi is about two and a half hours from Tokyo by express train.

Alternatively, the Joshu Yumeguri Go is a direct bus service from Tokyo (Shinjuku) that takes you directly to Kusatsu. After arriving in Kusatsu, you can easily get around on foot or by bus.

Minamoto no Yoritomo (1147–1199), the first samurai ruler of the Kamakura shogunate, is said to have patronized Kusatsu Onsen at the height of his power, and his historic visit is commemorated to this day.

Centuries later, a German physician named Erwin Bälz (1849–1913) helped popularize Kusatsu in the modern era by declaring it “a highland hot spring unrivaled anywhere in the world”. Bälz was invited to teach medicine in Japan and also served as the personal physician to Emperor Meiji.

The writer Naoya Shiga (1883–1971) wrote part of A Dark Night’s Passing while staying in Kusatsu. The avant-garde artist Taro Okamoto (1911–1996) was a frequent visitor and supporter of the town, so much so that he agreed to contribute to the urban planning of modern Kusatsu through the unique gourd-shaped promenade in the center of town.

In the year 2000, one hundred notable historical figures were selected to commemorate the centennial of the modern town’s official founding, and their names were inscribed onto stone posts.

Yubatake, located in the heart of Kusatsu Onsen, is the main hot springs source of the area and has become a symbol of the town itself. With a name that literally means “hot water field”, Yubatake provides up to 4,000 liters of hot spring water per minute to local establishments.

The water that bubbles up here reaches temperatures above 70 degrees Celsius (158 degrees Fahrenheit) and has a distinctly sulfuric odor. Wooden conduits direct the water to public baths and local lodgings. An array of shops and hotels are located on Sai-no-Kawara Street around Yubatake, and there is also a free footbath that anyone can partake in.

At the nearby Netsu-no-Yu bathhouse, visitors can enjoy the atmosphere of the elegant wooden interior while immersing themselves in local culture.

Netsu-no-Yu’s waters are not for bathing but rather for showcasing the traditional method of cooling the hot spring water known as yumomi.

Trained specialists use large wooden paddles to stir the piping hot water and incorporate a traditional folk song and dance into this action. Yumomi performances are scheduled at regular intervals throughout the day.

A trip to Kusatsu Onsen offers many opportunities to explore the surrounding sites of the natural world. Within walking distance is Sai-no-Kawara Park, where you can see billowing clouds of steam over naturally heated wells and other bodies of water. Walking trails provide access to this serene environment.

Those interested in traveling farther afield can head to volcanic Mount Shirane, which looms at a height of 2,160 meters and is situated northwest of Kusatsu Onsen. You can access hiking trails from April to November. It is a relatively easy walk from the Shirane Resthouse to the crater of Lake Yugama. The turquoise water of Lake Yugama is a remarkable sight to behold in any season. Mount Shirane also boasts beautiful foliage in autumn, and several ski resorts operate on its snowy slopes in winter.

Other attractions reachable within an hour from the Kusatsu region include Onioshidashi Volcanic Park, a landscape of jagged and irregularly shaped volcanic rocks set against volcanic Mount Asama, and the mystic beauty of Shiraito Falls, just past the border of Nagano Prefecture.