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Dive Deep Into Japanese Culture and the World of Japanese Filmmaker Yasujiro Ozu in Tateshina

2024-01-15
 

The great Japanese film director Yasujiro Ozu spent his life in and out of Japan, but in his later years when he worked on so many of his masterpieces, the filmmaker spent much of his time writing and entertaining in the little community of Tateshina, a part of Chino City in Nagano. Traces of Ozu's life and work can still be found in his beloved Tateshina, from the paths he walked to the memories he left behind, but it's the rich Japanese culture of the Chino area that makes it clear why the man wanted to do his work there in the first place. For fans of Japanese cinema, and anyone with an appreciation for Japanese culture, Chino is a beautiful place to get close to the real heart of Japan. Learn more about Yasujiro Ozu's life and work, experience local Japanese traditions, and get a taste of real Nagano cuisine with a trip to Chino.

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Now an icon of classic cinema, Yasujiro Ozu was born in Tokyo in 1903 before life led him through a series of moves, shifting between military service and the beginnings of his career at the Shochiku Film Company where he released his debut film in 1927. Ozu's work as a filmmaker spanned 54 major works and some major changes in the industry, so his earliest works were mostly short silent films and comedies, but it was Ozu's postwar films that really allowed him to refine his minimalist style, finally bringing the filmmaker acclaim. After the release of Tokyo Story, generally considered his magnum opus, Ozu set about producing a number of films now seen as masterpieces of Japanese cinema — highly esteemed around the world and screened at festivals like Cannes and Venice. The bulk of that work was done in a little corner of Chino City called Tateshina.

Tucked away in the mountains of Nagano, Ozu spent the busy final years of his life working with his writing partner Kogo Noda in a little house called Unkoso, drinking plenty of fine Japanese sake, and living in another traditional house called Mugeiso. Nowadays, travelers who make the trip to Tateshina can see where Ozu perfected six of his most influential scripts: Tokyo Twilight, Equinox Flower, Good Morning/Floating Weeds, Late Autumn, The End of Summer, and An Autumn Afternoon. Surrounded by Chino's fresh mountain air and friendly local community, there's no better place to see Japan through the eyes of Yasujiro Ozu.

 
※Page is available only in English.

 

Visit Mugeiso and Experience Yasujiro Ozu's World Like Never Before

The Ozu Chino Trip: Two Days Talking with Figures from Ozu's Life

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This two-day tour offers a once-in-a-lifetime chance to meet real members of Yasujiro Ozu's family and hear about his life and work from those who knew him best. Starting from Chino Station, the first day of the tour gives participants a day at Mugeiso, where Ozu lived while working in Tateshina.

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Now a commemorative museum, this beautiful old thatched-roof house offers a space for visitors to gather around the traditional sunken fireplace and talk with a guide known as a hijiroban. Listen close to hear about Ozu’s day-to-day life in Tateshina, along with some rare local stories behind his creative work. Yasujiro Ozu never married or had any children of his own, but while at Mugeiso, tour participants will also get the unique opportunity to meet and talk with his actual nieces and nephews, who are happy to share family tales and surprising facts from their illustrious uncle's storied life! Finish the night with a dinner of sukiyaki and plenty of Japanese sake for an evening Ozu himself would be proud of, before spending day two exploring other areas where the filmmaker spent his time in Tateshina.

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The second day gives participants even more time to go behind the scenes in the life of Yasujiro Ozu. Start with a walk down the path from Mugeiso to a reconstructed Unkoso and keep an eye out for Ozu's beloved cherry tree on the side of the road. At the rebuilt Unkoso, friends of the Ozu family now show visitors around and even read excerpts aloud from the recently discovered diary of Ozu's writing partner, Kogo Noda. Afterwards, the tour also includes a taste of local Nagano cuisine with lunch at Mokubo, a nearby soba restaurant that makes fresh noodles daily from locally grown buckwheat.

※Page is available only in English.
 

The Ozu Mugeiso Stay: Get Mugeiso All to Yourself

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Ever wished you could spend just a little free time in the spaces once used by your favorite creative minds? This uniquely customizable tour allows participants to rent Mugeiso for the day, using the space to write scripts, make art, or just soak up the unique atmosphere of the home where Yasujiro Ozu lived while he created some of his most famous films. Tour participants can choose how they want to spend the day, with plenty of time for visitors to focus on their own interests, before spending the evening sat around the sunken fireplace dubbed "Ozu's Bar". 

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This tour also offers a chance to meet and talk with Mugeiso's hijiroban guide, along with Ozu's real friends and family, before a hearty meal of sukiyaki and Ozu's favorite Japanese sake.

Address
4035 Kitayama, Chino, Nagano
Access
about seven km or 30 min from the Suwa interchange

 

Explore the Traditions and Natural Beauty of Chino

 

Chino is known for being the area where Yasujiro Ozu worked on many of his best films, but as Ozu himself understood so deeply, Chino has a lot to offer visitors even aside from cinematic history. From local cuisine to beautiful landscapes, and even unique opportunities to get hands on in the fields and farms of Japan's countryside, there's plenty to see and do in Chino. This little off-the-beaten-path city and the warmly inviting community that calls it home offer a great place to find authentic Japanese culture and experience it for yourself.

Cook and Eat Local Shimi Cuisine

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Japanese culture places strong emphasis on the importance of the four seasons, and that includes a love for seasonal foods. A perfect example of that is shimi cuisine, which literally means "frozen food" and refers to a unique set of local dishes that came about thanks to Chino's chilly mountaintop climate. Shimi cuisine uses traditional techniques and recipes to create results with great flavor and interesting textures — something locals like to call "naturally freeze-dried"! Sign up for a chance to learn how to make shimi cuisine from the long-time residents who know it best, and then savor the flavors of this unusual Chino cooking style.

Address
1132-1 Kohigashi Sasahara, Chino, Nagano
Access
20 min by car from JR Chino Station
Time required
Three hours
Reservation deadline
At least 10 days in advance
Fees
Adults (13 and up) 8,800 JPY (tax incl., for two participants)
Children (7-12 y.o.) 3,300 JPY (tax incl.)
Children (4-6 y.o.) 2,200 JPY (tax incl.)
*Activity, guide, and insurance fees included.

Find details here

Step Back in Time, Into a Shinshu Mountain Village

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The region of Japan surrounding Chino has historically been called Shinshu, and this quick tour offers an opportunity to dig into the history and culture of one little Shinshu community now located within Chino City’s limits. The village of Oike clings to the mountainside along a rushing stream of clear water, and the high point provides a spectacular view of Mount Yatsugatake. This unique geographical layout makes the village nice to look at, but it has also provided an interesting living for the many generations of people who have called Oike home. Enjoy a relaxing hour-long walk in the picturesque foothills and learn how the people of Oike have lived off the land and survived the winters, all from a local who knows best!

Address
614-1 Kanazawa Oike, Chino, Nagano
Access
10 min by car from JR Chino Station
Time required
Two hours (start time can be adjusted to fit the customer's schedule)
Reservation deadline
At least seven days in advance
Fees
Adults (12 and up) 4,400 JPY (tax incl., for two participants)
*Children under 12 may join for no additional fee.
*Guide and insurance fees included.
Find details here ※Page is available only in English.
 

Make Premium Miso Over an Open Flame

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At her restaurant Kamosuya, located inside a 150-year-old Japanese farmhouse, Junko Ariura specializes in small-batch miso paste, used to add umami and the power of fermentation to dishes of all kinds. The recipe for Ariura's special miso includes fresh local ingredients like Nagano rice, organic soybeans, and carefully selected salt, and the traditional methods preserve plenty of active Aspergillus oryzae to support healthy digestion. Now you can join Ariura and make your own miso, slowly cooked over a bonfire in the garden for the perfect texture and deeper flavor. Participants also get snacks and lunch while making their own custom miso, including grilled fish marinated in sake lees and koji, shimi tofu, house-made miso soup, and fresh brown rice. At the end of this miso-making experience, you get a batch of your own handmade miso to take home and ferment for a year before it's finally ready to enjoy!

Address
108 Toyohira, Chino, Nagano
Access
15 min by car from JR Chino Station
Time required
Four hours
Reservation deadline
At least seven days in advance
Fees
7,700 JPY (tax incl.)
*Additional miso available for 1,650 JPY per 1.5 kg (tax incl.).
*Activity, ingredients, lunch, snacks, and insurance fees included.
*English-speaking guide available for 11,330 JPY per group.
Find details here ※Page is available only in English.


Spend a Peaceful Day at a Chino Farmstead Retreat

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Every day, Tateshina Kitchen House offers just one group a special retreat, where guests can enjoy a life surrounded by mountains, fields, forests, little streams, and the big blue sky. Visit Tateshina Kitchen House to take hikes out in the fresh air, help out on the farm, do yoga, or even cook alongside the proprietress Ayumi, who is happy to help where needed and otherwise lets guests just enjoy the peace and quiet. At this refreshing oasis in the mountains of Nagano, there's everything to do and also nothing to do at all, making it the perfect place to get back in touch with the earth beneath our feet.

Access
25 min by car from JR Chino Station
*Address and directions provided after reservations are confirmed.
Time required
Two days, one night
Fees
Adults (10 and up) 10,000 JPY (tax incl.)
Children (5-9 y.o.) 5,000 JPY (tax incl.)
*Accommodations, breakfast, dinner, and insurance fees included.
*Available between April and November.
 

 

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Blessed with fresh mountain air and green forests, the city of Chino is speckled with Nagano's famous natural vistas, but it's the people of Chino and the culture they bring to the region that has always made it special. Once upon a time, that included Yasujiro Ozu, and there's still no better place than Chino for fans of Japanese cinema to get a real grasp on how the filmmaker lived and worked, from the rooms Yasujiro Ozu once used in Tateshina to the family members who still fondly tell tales of his life and legacy. Nowadays it's still all the friendly locals who make Chino such a grand destination, as they generously share their favorite recipes and invite visitors into the community they've created. For a chance to learn about Yasujiro Ozu and his work from sources like none other, as well as a chance to wander off the beaten path and get to the heart of Japanese culture, you won't want to miss the city of Chino!