With their narrow streets sloping down to the bustling boulevards downhill, Belleville and Ménilmontant are two of the most iconic neighborhoods of Eastern Paris.
Former villages perched on the side of a hill, these historically working-class districts became a favorite nightlife retreat for Parisians even before they were incorporated as part of the capital in 1860. Their lively reputation remains true to this day!
Many residents of Belleville and Ménilmontant fully embraced the social uprisings of the 19th century – notably during the Paris Commune of 1871, with the last barricades standing right below today’s verdant Parc de Belleville.
In more recent history, waves of new residents arrived from all parts of the world, originating from Armenia, Central and Eastern Europe, North and West Africa, and finally Southeast Asia and China in the 1980s – Belleville is indeed Paris’ second largest Chinatown. Along with Ménilmontant, they have quickly become a mosaic of cultures in the heart of the capital.
Beyond its hidden cobblestone streets and secret stairways, Belleville and Ménilmontant have much more to offer than the old Parisian cliché. Today, locals and visitors alike can be found sharing a drink on a terrace, enjoying a truly international cuisine, and leisurely wandering around the area’s two large green spaces: the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont and Parc de Belleville.
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SIGHTS AND ATTRACTIONS
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Butte Bergeyre
Like a charming little village perched atop a hill overlooking the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, the Butte Bergeyre ranks among the few micro-neighborhoods spared by the Parisian traffic. Standing at an altitude of 100 meters (330 feet), this residential – and rather wealthy – neighborhood is lined with many houses and villa, some vines, and a community garden. It also offers some of the best views of Paris’ most famous hill, Montmartre! We can only recommend to enter from the staircase located at 54 Avenue Simon Bolivar, celebrated in a 1950 photograph by Willy Ronis.
Rue Georges Lardennois, 75019 Paris
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Parc & Belvédère de Belleville
At the heart of the neighborhood, the Parc de Belleville offers wonderful views of the Parisian cityscape and green lawns to relax in the summertime. Atop the hillside park stands the Belvédère, a popular hanging spot for locals where community events are held regularly.
27 Rue Piat, 75020 Paris
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Place Henri Krasucki
A maze of narrow streets lead to this charming roundabout, where Bellevillois gather to meet at one of the cafés surrounding the square. Don’t forget to check out the corner baker, registered as a historic building thanks to its ancient tile decoration. The surrounding Rue des Envierges, Rue de la Mare, and Rue des Cascades are all very popular among Parisian street artists.
Place Henri Krasucki, 75020 Paris
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Rue de Belleville
This very unique street at the heart of the Belleville Chinatown offers a great diversity of Asian cuisines and boasts an incredibly rich history, from its enduring status as a nightlife hub to its connexions to the historic struggles of the Parisian working class. Take a stroll from the Belleville metro station to the next stops Pyrénées or Jourdain (or the other way around if you want to avoid the walk uphill) to catch a glimpse of its architectural diversity, vibrant businesses, and general liveliness. At the crossroad with Avenue Simon Bolivar, you’ll be rewarded with an incredible view of the Eiffel Tower in the distance.
Rue de Belleville, 75019/75020 Paris
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Rue Denoyez
This cobbled little street running parallel to the Boulevard de Belleville used to be an iconic spot for Parisian street artists. The former artist cooperatives are currently being turned into social housing, with trendy cafés and boutiques opening all around. Street art enthusiasts are advised to explore further north, towards the heights of the Parc de Belleville.
Rue Denoyez, 75020 Paris
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Sainte-Marthe neighborhood
This quaint neighborhood is a mosaic of peaceful streets adorned with colorful facades, lively cafés and hip boutiques. Locals flock to the little square at the heart of the Sainte-Marthe neighborhood, a haven of peace amidst the hustle and bustle of Belleville and Rue Saint-Maur.
Rue Sainte-Marthe, 75010 Paris
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Villa de l’Ermitage & Cité Leroy
A well-known detour for Bellevillois, the Villa de l’Ermitage is without a doubt one of the most charming passages of Eastern Paris. Artists workshops, sunny courtyards, finely wrought porches and lush vegetation – by Paris standards – it is hard to imagine that the lively Rue de Ménilmontant is right around the corner! With an old fashioned and simple charm, these two passages are a must-see for those exploring the hilltops of Belleville.
Villa de l’Ermitage / Cité Leroy, 75020 Paris
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CULTURAL VENUES
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Ateliers d’artistes de Belleville
1 Rue Francis Picabia, 75020 Paris
+33 1 73 74 27 67
ateliers-artistes-belleville.fr
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Pavillon Carré de Baudouin
121 Rue de Ménilmontant, 75020 Paris
+33 1 58 53 55 40
www.mairie20.paris.fr
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Théâtre de Belleville
94 Rue du Faubourg du Temple, 75011 Paris
+33 (0)1 48 06 72 34
www.theatredebelleville.com
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Théâtre Clavel
3 Rue Clavel, 75019 Paris
+33 9 75 45 60 56
www.theatre-clavel.com
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Théâtre de Ménilmontant
15 Rue du Retrait, 75020 Paris
+33 1 46 36 98 60
www.menilmontant.info
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– Find more art galleries in Belleville and Ménilmontant here –
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LODGING
Generator Hostel
Opened in 2015, this state-of-the-art hostel boasts some pleasant features including a café, a restaurant, and a lively rooftop bar offering great views of the city. The property is located right above line 2 of the Metro, and is only a short walk away from the Canal Saint-Martin and the charming Saint-Marthe neighborhood.
9-11 Place du Colonel Fabien, 75010 Paris
+33 (0)1 70 98 84 00
generatorhostels.com
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The Loft Boutique Hostel and Hotel
This colorful hostel is located in the heart of the bustling Belleville neighborhood: an ideal situation the enjoy the area’s many restaurants and bars. The property is nestled right under the slanted Parc de Belleville, which boasts some of the best views of the city.
70 Rue Julien Lacroix, 75020 Paris
+33 (0)1 42 02 42 02
theloft-paris.com
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Les Piaules
This elegant hostel is located on a corner building overlooking the busy Boulevard de Belleville, in the heart of one a multicultural neighborhood rich with cafés and nightlife venues. Don’t forget to enjoy a craft beer at the bar or on the terrasse, or check out the rooftops of Paris from the rooftop patio.
59 Boulevard de Belleville, 75011 Paris
+ 33 (0)1 43 55 09 97
www.lespiaules.com
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RESTAURANTS
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L’Artisan Libanais
Lebanese Restaurant
This stylish eatery wins hearts with their flavourful Lebanese fare; it’s also friendly to our fellow vegetarians. L’Artisan Libanais is a lunchtime favorite turned intimate restaurant at night, boasting an impressive display of freshly made spreads, beignets, and more. Their pitas and generous plates are a must have!
91 Rue de Belleville, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)1 44 65 95 25
artisan-libanais.com
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Le Baratin
Tucked away on a quiet side street of the Rue de Belleville, a discrete exterior houses a wonderfully modern establishment — Le Baratin. Chef Raquel Carena, an influential figure of the bistronomy movement, is behind this establishment which serves hearty daily specialties with a contemporary twist. A fine wine list is offered alongside meals: another reason to bring a date or some good friends!
3 Rue Jouye-Rouve, 75020 Paris – €€
+33 (0)1 43 49 39 70
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Les Bols d’Antoine
Ⓥ Vegetarian – Vegan Restaurant
With a terrace located by the Belvedere of Parc de Belleville, Les bols d’Antoine is a great place to sit and enjoy an outdoor meal in the summer, all with a lovely view of the city nearby. The restaurant offers a delightful menu in which fresh protein bowls are the star!
10 Rue des Envierges, 75020 Paris
+33 6 99 18 39 52
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Candide
Bistronomy
37 boulevard de la Villette / 35 Rue de Sambre-et-Meuse, 75010 Paris
+33 1 83 87 99 93
www.candide.paris
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La Cantine de Belleville
French Restaurant
108 Boulevard de Belleville, 75020 Paris
+33 1 43 15 99 29
lacantinebelleville.fr
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Cheval d’Or
Cheval d’Or is a gem in the 19th arrondissement, serving modern Chinese inspired cuisine in a deconstructed establishment. With an eclectic offering, diners select from an à la carte, tapas menu – an homage to classical Asian family style dining. Here, classic and nontraditional ingredients (such as scamorza) are a delight to the palate!
21 Rue de la Villette, 75019 Paris – €€
+33 (0)9 54 12 21 77
chevaldorparis.com
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Citoyennes Interculturelles de Paris 20°
39bis Rue de Tourtille, 75020 Paris
+33 (0)9 50 73 77 22
www.traiteurcip20.com
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Coup de tête
A blooming newcomer on the Belleville food scene, Coup de Tete is a refreshing restaurant that turns eyes, not only with its bright sea blue exterior, but also with its delicious smells. Fresh cuisine is served daily at this contemporary eatery; they offer plates that burst with colorful flavor. It’s a restaurant that doesn’t disappoint. Be sure to reserve in advance — neighbors have already got their eye on this one!
107 Rue de Belleville, 75019 Paris – €€
+33 (0)1 48 03 31 36
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Guo Min
Chinese and Southeast Asian Restaurant
As the first Asian restaurant in Belleville, Guo Min has a dish for every occassion. Diners are treated to classic Chinese and pan-Asian food at its finest. With its friendly hours, patrons can visit this establishment from lunch til midnight. This place is great for big groups as well!
39 Rue de Belleville, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)1 42 08 88 88
guominparis.com
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Le Faitout
Ⓥ Vegan Restaurant
Walking past Le Faitout, one wouldn’t expect its vegan origins. Surprisingly discreet, diners enter into a warmly lit classical French bistro featuring a wrap around bar. At this convivial restaurant, patrons are greeted by a friendly staff and local brews. The plant based cheese is texturally delightful, and the generous portions make this restaurant a classic go to spot for both tapas and French vegan comfort food. Plan ahead, and you might even make it to one of their lauded jazz nights!
23 Avenue Simon Bolivar, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)1 42 08 07 09
www.lefaitout.fr
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Floréal Belleville
Cultural Café welcoming Rotating Chefs
Fully renovated, this historic venue at the foot of the Parc de Belleville reopened in late 2018 as a café, restaurant, and cultural center.
43 Rue des Couronnes, 75020 Paris, France
+33 1 43 61 94 66
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Le Firat
Kurdish Restaurant
This Kurdish restaurant is located at the crossroad of two of the area’s busiests streets, the Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple and the Rue Saint-Maur.
175 Rue Saint-Maur, 75011 Paris
+33 1 40 21 04 69
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Krung Thep Mahanakorn
Thai Restaurant
61 Rue de Belleville, 75019 Paris
+33 1 53 19 08 46
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Là-haut
French Restaurant
10 Rue Pixérécourt, 75020 Paris
+33 9 51 07 78 68
lahautparis20.business.site
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Lou Pascalou
Cultural café
Behind its pleasant terrace in the vibrant heart of Ménilmontant, Lou Pascalou is much more than a simple café-restaurant. This neighborhood staple features live concerts, debates and slam nights, and is the perfect place to see local artists.
14 Rue des Panoyaux, 75020 Paris
+33 1 46 36 78 10
www.cafe-loupascalou.com
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Le Mezze du Chef
Ⓥ Vegetarian Turkish Restaurant
80 Rue de Ménilmontant, 75020 Paris
+33 (0)6 95 65 19 20
www.lemezzeduchefcigkofte.fr
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Mian Guan
Chinese Restaurant
In Paris’ burgeoning fresh noodle scene, Mian Guan is a star. The spicy beef stew with hand cut noodles is perfect for a cold night. As a bonus: at the far end of this casual eatery, lucky diners will spot chefs making long strings of artisanal noodles—all from scratch!
34 Rue de Belleville, 75020 Paris
+33 (0)1 40 33 45 01
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Le Mistral
French Restaurant
Le Mistral is a well kept neighborhood secret. Hiding in plain sight on the Rue des Pyrénees, this bistrot boasts a gorgeous backyard patio and is a beacon of hope for those seeking excellent regional food from Aveyron. We wholeheartedly recommend the aligot!
401 Rue des Pyrénées, 75020 Paris
+33 1 46 36 98 20
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Nakagawa
Nakagawa is a chain of restaurants serving elegant and authentic Japanese fare. One of three sister restaurants, the Rue de Lassus establishment specializes in supremely fresh sushi and sashimi; their appetizers don’t disappoint either (ask for the tofu!). A bright interior and quality of ingredients are some of the reasons we said Yes.
9 Rue Lassus, 75019 Paris – €€
+33 (0)1 42 08 43 22
restaurant-nakagawa.com
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La Nouvelle Rotisserie
4 Rue Jean et Marie Moinon, 75010 Paris
www.lanouvellerotisserie.org
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Il Posto
Italian Restaurant
We can only recommend the ourmet pizzas, prepared by a dedicated Italian staff. Modern indoor setting and wide terrace on the lively Rue des Pyrénées.
356 Rue des Pyrénées, 75020 Paris
+33 1 43 66 18 58
www.ilposto.fr
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Le Président
Chinese Restaurant
Le Président is the epitomy of Chinese dining in Belleville. An elegant interior is paired with white tablecloth service at this grand establishment. The tea smoked duck is the dish which piqued our interest for its tantalizing plating and rich flavors. Fun fact: this restaurant has, in fact, been patroned by various French presidents!
120 Rue du Faubourg du Temple, 75011 Paris
+33 1 47 00 17 18
www.lepresident-paris.fr
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Primeur
Ⓥ Vegetarian – Vegan Restaurant
4 Rue Lemon, 75020 Paris
+33 (0)1 71 70 95 28
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Rond
Crêperie
21 Rue du Transvaal, 75020 Paris
+33 (0)9 87 58 75 06
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Tin Tin
Vietnamese Restaurant
17 Rue Louis Bonnet, 75011 Paris
+33 (0)1 43 55 50 13
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Whenzhou – La Cantine chinoise
Bao & Chinese Specialties
16 Rue de Belleville, 75020 Paris
+33 (0)1 47 97 70 01
www.lacantinechinoise.fr
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GRABBING A DRINK
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Aux Folies
Aux Folies is a staple for locals and visitors alike. This classic Parisian bar has a large terrace to share drinks while enjoying the hustle and bustle of Rue de Belleville. Service is efficient and the prices are consistently low!
8 Rue de Belleville, 75020 Paris
www.aux-folies-belleville.fr
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Le Barbouquin
Pleasant literary café-bar hiding at the end of the pedestrian Rue Denoyez.
1 Rue Denoyez, 75020 Paris
+33 9 84 32 13 21
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Le Bariolé
103 Rue de Belleville, 75020 Paris
+33 (0)1 42 49 17 33
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Bistrot Le Rez de Chaussée
10 Rue Sorbier, 75020 Paris
+33 (0)1 43 58 30 14
www.restaurant-rdc-paris20eme.com
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Café Chéri
Popular neighborhood bar with low prices, lively terrace and warm neon lightings.
44 Boulevard de la Villette, 75019 Paris
+33 9 53 05 93 36
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La Cagnotte
114 Rue de Belleville, 75020 Paris
+33 (0)1 47 97 25 16
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Chez Cosette
41 Rue des Envierges, 75020 Paris
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Demain c’est loin
9 Rue Julien Lacroix, 75020 Paris
+33 (0)1 43 66 51 51
www.demaincestloin.fr
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Culture Rapide
Artsy bar-café with occasional open mics and consistently low prices. Culture Rapide has one of Paris’ most pleasant terraces, sprawling on a lively square facing Rue de Belleville. Concerts, comedy nights: there is something for every taste in the bar’s busy event calendar.
103 Rue Julien Lacroix, 75020 Paris
culture-rapide.business.site
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La Laverie
Hip neighborhood bar at the corner of the peaceful Rue Sorbier.
1, rue Sorbier, 75020 Paris
www.cafelalaverie.fr
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Les Mésanges
Cute bistro with a terrace, a perfect spot to enjoy the quiet Place Henri-Krasucki.
82 Rue de la Mare, 75020 Paris
+33 (0)1 42 52 99 69
lesmesanges.eatbu.com
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Les Rigoles
Les Rigoles is a fine neighborhood bistro serving a generous happy hour. In this lively address complete with a large terrace, you’ll find a generously portioned classic planche (two words: truffle cheese!) with a well priced pint or cocktail. A fantastic spot to meet your friends for a round or two!
334 Rue des Pyrénées, 75020 Paris
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Le Saint-Sauveur
This colorful bar, with stickers and protest posters playing a central role in the local decor, embodies some of the radical politics that have long been part of Belleville and Ménilmontant history. Great spot to grab a beer while enjoying the reggae or ska playing in the background.
11 Rue des Panoyaux, 75020 Paris
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La Sardine
La Sardine is ideally located on the peaceful square at the heart of the Sainte-Marthe neighborhood. Locals fill up the wide outdoor terrace almost year-long to enjoy some snacks and reasonably-priced drinks.
32 Rue Sainte-Marthe, 75010 Paris
www.barlasardine.com
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Le 9b
On the corner of the busy Boulevard de la Villette, this bar has a popular terrace and a basement dancefloor. Guests can enjoy regular electronic music gigs – just check the events calendar on their website.
68 Boulevard de la Villette, 75019 Paris
www.le9b.com
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LATE NIGHT & CONCERTS
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La Java
Founded in 1923, this historic venue on the lively Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple has featured artists such as Édith Piaf, Django Reinhardt and Maurice Chevalier. Now dedicated to alternative, underground and electronic musical genres, La Java remains a staple of Eastern Paris’ nightlife. Don’t hesitate to check out the event calendar to experience the local club culture.
105 Rue du Faubourg du Temple, 75010 Paris
www.la-java.fr
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La Bellevilloise
A former worker cooperative founded in 1877, la Bellevilloise is now dedicated to various cultural experimentations: concerts, clubbing, festival, exhibitions, debates, film screenings, etc. The historical building also features café-concerts and diners with live music from Wednesday to Saturday evenings. The Bellevilloise’s Sunday jazz brunch is also very popular among locals.
19-21 Rue Boyer, 75020 Paris
+33 (0)1 46 36 07 07
www.labellevilloise.com
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La Maroquinerie
A neighbor of La Bellevilloise, La Maroquinerie has become an essential venue for all lovers of contemporary music over the past 10 years. The venue used to serve as a leather goods factury. More than just a concert hall, it features a restaurant and a lovely courtyard terrace, which is quite popular on sunny days and before gigs start.
23 Rue Boyer, 75020 Paris
+33 (0)1 40 33 35 05
www.lamaroquinerie.fr
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Studio de l’Ermitage
Climb to the top of the steep Rue de Ménilmontant to find the Studio de l’Ermitage, one of the neighborhood’s leading music venues. Mainly dedicated to jazz and international artists, the Studio de l’Ermitage aims to explore new musical horizons.
8 Rue de l’Ermitage, 75020 Paris
+33 (0)1 44 62 02 86
www.studio-ermitage.com
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