Minnesota Prairie Roots

Writing and photography by Audrey Kletscher Helbling

Touring Hopperstad Stave in Moorhead November 13, 2012

A replica of Hopperstad Stave, a church built in 1140 in Vik, Norway. This replica was constructed in 1998 in Moorhead, Minnesota from cedar, redwood and pine. This is a rear view of the Minnesota stave.

OUR YOUNG TOUR GUIDE spewed information so fast that I could not have written down details about the Hopperstad Stave had I tried.

And, I simply must say this, but I was distracted by the political sticker stuck on her coat, quite inappropriate, I thought, to display while leading a public tour at a public facility only days before the November election. But I did not want to create a scene, so I kept my lips pressed together.

She had already rankled me earlier by informing my husband and me that we likely would not be able to tour the Norwegian church at the Hjemkomst Center in Moorhead because the museum was short-staffed. On a Saturday. We had just driven nearly 300 miles. Do not tell me this after I have paid my admittance fee.

Forgive me for venting. But I needed to confess before taking you inside the replica Norwegian church built in 1998 by Guy Paulson, a retired researcher from North Dakota State University. I do not want such negative thoughts rattling around in my head while showing you God’s house.

A side view of the stave and the Celtic cross which stands near it. The stone cross replicates one located in the church yard of Loen Nordfjord, Norway. The cross represents the period in which Celtic missionaries came from the British Isles to convert Vikings to Christianity.

Yes, apparently the situation changed so that the young woman could leave her admission station to take a group of visitors, including my husband and me, inside the stave. Hallelujah.

Norwegian themed mugs for sale in the Hjemkomst Center gift shop.

I am not Norwegian. I know nothing of Norwegian architecture, have eaten lutefisk only twice, will consume lefse if offered and certainly do not say, “Uff da.”

But I want to assure you that I now am aware of how to pronounce stave. The word does not rhyme with “gave.” The “e” is silent, the “a” short.

I can also tell you that, from the exterior, the Hopperstad Stave resembles a Viking ship.

The roofline which mixes crosses, the symbol of Christianity, and dragons, once a symbol of pagans.  Obviously, the crosses are not visible at this angle.

Carved dragons and crosses mark peaks of the multi-layer roofed church which looms dark and foreboding.

Most of us stepped up and walked through that narrow front door. Others chose to walk around to a handicapped accessible and wider side door.

Stepping, and I do mean stepping, through the narrow doorway, I found the interior nearly equally as dark as the exterior. Missing are the eye level windows I’m accustomed to in the older Lutheran churches here in Minnesota.

An overview of the church shows the small chapel and altar on the left where more intimate religious ceremonies, such as baptisms, could take place. The main altar sits in the background and near center in this image.

Missing also are the pews. Worshipers would stand through services. And those with leprosy or other illnesses (think back to the 1100s) would wait outside the sanctuary, peering through a tiny opening cut into a side wall.

Detailed carvings and paintings define the chapel area.

Other details escape me except that Guy Paulson, who built and donated the stave to the city of Moorhead, carved the intricate designs inside and outside the church. The craftsmanship of his work is exquisite.

Really, sometimes remembering the visual details, rather than the rapid-fire of information overload, is the best way to take a tour.

Amen and amen.

Looking up at the beautiful construction.

Another painting inside the chapel area.

There are no ground level windows, only above. This is looking toward the back of the church, above the narrow entry door.

Two exterior hallways buffet the building. In the original church in Norway, those with diseases like leprosy would wait here as they were not allowed inside for worship.

A close-up shot detailing construction.

Dragon carvings are everywhere, inside and out, this one at the edge of the roof.

© Copyright 2012 Audrey Kletscher Helbling

 

27 Responses to “Touring Hopperstad Stave in Moorhead”

  1. Erin Says:

    These are beautiful pictures! My friend was married here in 2001 but we never received a tour. I think between the bookstore you featured a few days ago and the Norwegian Stave warrants a day trip! Thanks for sharing!

    • Audrey Kletscher Helbling Says:

      Museum visitors aren’t allowed inside the church without a tour guide. Not sure why, as there is nothing inside which could be stolen. Perhaps the concern is vandalism. I haven’t even shown you the Hjemkomst ship at the Hjemkomst Center or the gift shop. And I only touched briefly on what downtown Fargo has to offer. So, yes, this most definitely could be a day trip.

      There’s also an art museum near the Center which you should check out. We did not have enough time to see that. And Fargo has the Plains Art Museum, definitely a must-see.

  2. Jackie Says:

    I’d have to say that’s a pretty amazing looking church. Love all the details, those big ole tree pillars are pretty cool too. You seem to find the neatest places to visit, love reading about them! I’m half norwegian, so Uff-da comes out of my mouth at least once a day…. I have never eaten Lutefisk (cant get past the smell) and I love lefse…. I sometimes make my own 🙂

    • Audrey Kletscher Helbling Says:

      What? You’re half Norwegian and have never eaten lutefisk? Jackie! Remedy that this holiday season. Hold your nose, or something.

      Those pillars are actually the “staves.”

  3. cecilia Says:

    what an extraordinary place.. I mean really amazing, what beautiful detailed work, is the original still standing?.. c

  4. What a Beautiful Place – loving your photos – all that wood – AMAZING!!! Happy Tuesday:)

  5. hotlyspiced Says:

    Unbelievable. That woman should not be in the service industry – she’s too rude. What a beautiful building but they sure did make feeling ‘the joy of the Lord’ difficult with the lack of windows and having to stand for the duration of the service. Did things have to be so tough? I’m so glad you were allowed to do the tour xx

    • Audrey Kletscher Helbling Says:

      I probably should not have been so hard on the young woman. She’s young, a college student, I think, and learning. Yet, I did find her attitude less than welcoming and when I inquired the second time about a tour, another woman heard my request, stepped up and we were good to go. I don’t know what that was all about, but I was just happy we could finally have our guided tour. As for the political sticker on the guide’s coat, she probably didn’t even think about it being there. Again, though, something you need to be aware of when you are in the employ of a public place giving a public tour.

      I believe the lack of lower level windows had something to do with protecting the worshipers from attacking enemies. And, if I recall correctly, people could buy pews. Like I said, I did not even attempt to write down information. No time really given the tour was my single opportunity to take photos and the info was flowing fast.

  6. Glad you finally got the tour no thanks to your young docent or whatever she was!!! The pictures are beautiful and I now know the proper pronunciation!!! 🙂 I think I need to make a trip here!!! You have shown me so many great places to go visit!!!

    • Audrey Kletscher Helbling Says:

      I just would not recommend a trip to the Fargo/Moorhead area in the winter, unless you have a great weather forecast well in advance. Travel can get a bit dicey up there if snow rolls in along with that everlasting wind.

      You could easily spend several days exploring all that the two cities have to offer. I’ve only just scratched the surface of what you can see. If you ever decide to head there, email me privately and I can recommend two great hotels and one not-so-great hotel.

  7. Sartenada Says:

    Fantastic. I love those photos and of course the church itself. Thank You presenting these photos.

    • Audrey Kletscher Helbling Says:

      I expected a comment from you considering your appreciation for old churches. Good to hear from you.

  8. Toured this with a couple of the kids when we live in Moorhead…..loved the images…sadly…I didn’t take “Pictures” of anything but babies back then! We will have to visit some time again….we lived not far from this! 🙂

  9. Marvelous, Audrey! Another thing I didn’t know was in MN. Must go.

  10. ljhlaura Says:

    Thank you for this wonderful tour! So agree that the political sticker was inappropriate, but glad you got to have the tour and share these photos with us. Only a quarter Norwegian myself, but have been wanting to learn about these stave churches …

    • Audrey Kletscher Helbling Says:

      I just wish I could have shared more info about stave churches. But, given my time inside the church was limited and I wanted to take photos, I thought the images more important than note-taking. Our guide was quite knowledgeable. I hesitated mentioning that political sticker in my post, but it was part of my experience. I’m just glad we finally were able to get the tour. The Hopperstad Stave is most definitely unlike any church I’ve ever seen and I’ve been inside a lot of churches here in Minnesota.

  11. R. Hopper Says:

    My surname is Hopper and according to a translation of old Norwegian that I obtained in Bergen the original name for the village was Opperstad after a local river. My DNA confirms that I have some Scandinavian ancestry. Our family tree has been traced to Kent in the UK and the Hopper name is common along the east coast of England to the Scottish borders, here the name is known as Happer

  12. Gunny Says:

    I saw to Stave Church in Moorhead (also the Viking Ship which is grand!). The tour guide was most delightful and yes, I am afraid they are kind of concerned with damage to the interior, On the other hand wife and I ran into other Texans while visiting the center. Small world!

    FYI, my surname means “blue” or “Scotch-Irish” (can you guess what it is?). It has several spellings.

    The center was a let down as I am puzzled and surprised that they would make a statue of a African American who fought the Civil War. This has got to be about as PC as one can get. I do not care that they remember an African American who fought for his freedom and that of others, but I was kind of put off that they fail to acknowledge the sacrifices of the Ole’s, Johan’s, Ivan’s and others. I also offered them my papers which they declined (their loss).

    I am adding to the itinerary for my next trip. Happy Trails!


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