Trip date: August 2022
Why Saint Pierre and Miquelon (SPM)?
- I’ve always knew of SPM as that ‘weird corner’ of France in North America and it’s quite intriguing
- It’s one of those really off-the-beaten-path places people just don’t get to visit, like Rapa Nui (Eastern Island)
- The place has been cut off from Canada and the rest of the world during the pandemic, and that made me even more curious
As a kid I collected stamps. In my teens I had a subscription to stamps from a few countries, and one of them was France. Within that subscription stamps from Saint Pierre et Miquelon were included. As a geography nerd, I always knew where it was and said I would visit one day.
Well, that day finally came. I spent two days almost disconnected from the rest of the world, between St. Pierre, Miquelon and Langlade.
Background
Saint Pierre and Miquelon is an Overseas Collectivity of France, just off the coast of Newfoundland. It is the only remnant of France’s footprint in North America. It is comprised of St. Pierre, Miquelon and Langlade islands, with the latter two connected by an isthmus which is basically a dune.
Day 1, Saint Pierre
St. Pierre is a small town of 5,500 people. The little streets full of colorful homes with street names such as Rue de Paris reminds you that you’re actually in France. However, the glitzy shops and cafes of Metropolitan France are nowhere to be seen. This place is indeed different from the rest of France.
The beauty of the town (at least to me) lies just across the water, on the Île aux Marins, a quick 10-minute ferry ride away (6€). It was once inhabited by fishermen but there is no permanent population since the 1960s. Homes still remain on the island, but serves more like vacation homes for a quick getaway for some. I spent a few hours here just disconnected from the rest of the world (remember no mobile reception!), just taking in the view before me.
There is also a church that is still standing, along with a cemetery.
Once back on St. Pierre (the waves were a bit choppy on the ferry), I somehow ran into the Fête Basque (Basque Festival) that’s going on, with games of pelote basque (Basque pelota), which is almost a racquetball game played on a much, much larger court. For a small town, there was quite a showing of spectators. The nearby bar/restaurant began serving Basque chili with sangria and beer, and the game was on.
After the game, I climbed a bit up to the Belvedere to get a spectacular view of Saint Pierre before sunset. It was a moment of peace that I haven’t had in a while.
Day 2, Miquelon and Langlade
The next morning, I decided to visit Miquelon via a 90-minute ferry ride. Apparently so did everyone at my bed and breakfast, so we all went together.
After arriving in Miquelon, we walked straight to the MNE (Maison de la Nature et de l’Environnement, or the Nature Interpretation Center) to book a van tour (50€) of Miquelon. The weather wasn’t the best as the forecast indicated heavy rain, which was another reason to join a tour. Our guide François drove the 25km (15.5mi) length all the way down to Langlade, including the 13km (8mi) isthmus that connects the two islands.
While beautiful, Miquelon too has suffered from climate change. For one, winters have become milder. Secondly, erosion along the coast has become bad enough that there is talk about moving the commune of Miquelon elsewhere – in just 50 years. There is a lot of work around the area to address erosion, including along the La Dune of the isthmus. Much of the work and the crisis that SPM faces is explained at the MNE. If you book the tour, the entrance fee to the exhibit is included.
The other interesting thing about this Collectivity is its connection to the US during Prohibition. While it is said that Al Capone had visited SPM, I was told that it’s not true. It was simply ‘his people’ had visited during those times.
After the tour I had lunch at a restaurant called The Mayou’naise with its lively staff. The food changes daily based on available ingredients. The tourism office made a reservation for me in advance so I could have a seat. In SPM, it’s important to have a reservation, especially for dinner. Otherwise you risk the chance of being turned away and you’re stuck with bar food.
I then walked from one end of the commune to the other before heading back to Saint Pierre, where I was met with thick fog. It was a long day.
Until Next Time, SPM
If I visit Newfoundland, I would love to come back for another visit, but it wasn’t the easiest to get here in the first place, which I have explained in another post.
Now off to Halifax, Canada.
Practical Information
Airport Transportation: The official rate for taxis from the Saint-Pierre Pointe Blanche (FSP) Airport to town is 7€.
Immigration procedures: This is the same as entering France (because you are in France!). Normal immigration procedures apply. You will receive a passport stamp as an American.
Covid Testing: There is no testing requirement for entering Saint Pierre et Miquelon. Please check the requirements for the return to your home country.
Money: Euro. At the time of travel, US$1 = 1€ (August 2022). Credit cards are widely used.
Transportation: Taxis are available at the airport to your hotel for 7€. Cash only. Please note there are only 3 taxis in Saint Pierre. No, there is no Uber.
Special Note on Food: Please make sure you have reservations for dinner. If you don’t have one, you might be turned away.
Tipping: Please just leave 1-2€ at restaurants.
Internet/Mobile Data: There is no mobile roaming in Saint Pierre and Miquelon, so be prepared to be out of touch as you are out and about. Internet is available at your accommodation, as well as at restaurants. You could buy Internet access from the local provider but it’s not worth the money.
Maps: As best practice, download an offline map using Google Maps to minimize data usage.
Weather: The weather report is not to be trusted. Just be prepared.
Official Tourism Site: The Saint-Pierre et Miquelon Office du Tourisme site is the official place to go for information.
Postcard Rate: 1,70 Euros to North America (US$1.70).